nta16

Duckhams, a different company to back then even, more a case of a brand name under different ownership . - https://www.duckhams.com/about-us/duckhams-heritage/ Haynes was British and Duckhams was British so bot too surprising about the tie up, note the publisher of this book off Duckhams' website. - https://www.duckhams.com/duckhams-full-story/#dearflip-df_2622/1/ I can't remember if Haynes had Duckhams in my 1974 and 1980 books.

Or perhaps at the time VW signed a mutually beneficial deal with a different oil company, perhaps for a wider range of products to also cover the other VW owned car brands and models (I don't know just speculating without any evidence). My wife's 2015 VW/Skoda Fabia has Castrol (forget which product) over the folder that holds the car's cards and Owners booklets and at Dealerships servicing Castrol engine oil products are recorded as being used, which oil company/product did VW/Skoda recommend/promote in 1994, 1997, 2000?

Yes I saw that on their website but I didn't know if a 10w-40 was previously available in a European formula, oils and their labels get changed with sales and marketing needs and wants. 5W-40 (AFL) - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 14.3 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 88.5 https://amsoilcontent.com/ams/lit/databulletins/g3395.pdf I would contact Amsoil Europe and see what oil they suggest, as I have their oil finder, when I tried it, suggested as I put above (unless I typo'd anything). I know you, quite rightly, would check any information, opinion or belief you get off the internet or from a manufacturer and go your own way. Yes. I used Mobil 1 in at least one old "classic" if not two before your Felicia was made or you bought it and they both had cork gaskets. One that I know of was still going a couple of decades later after I sold it, the other I know was going fine a few years later but was moved off-shore so contact and records were lost. With my last "classic" which I had for 15 years I ran on various oils from initially mineral to Mobil 1 to a Millers, the current owner, along with his two other "classics" uses Castrol Magnatec (semi-syn?) as his brother works for Castrol. He also uses silicone brake fluid in his "classics", for the 25+ years since he restored one that I can remember - but that's a different can of worms. AFAIK his "classics" will have cork seals, unless he's updated their materials, I can't remember asking about them. I was told by some "classic" owners back then, particularly those that rarely drove their "classics" whereas I was using mine daily, that the Mobil 1 would ruin the engines, rot my teeth and steal my looks, the engines were fine and I still have all my own teeth and looks. 😁 All the "classics" mentioned above had engines designed in the 1950s and built in the 60s, one in the 70s and one replacement engine in the 80s. I have also used Mobil 1 in old and brand new Rover V8 engines in various cars, the engines being made in the 70s and 90s. I can not with honesty tell you if the synthetic oils I have used have caused or made worse any leaks to any seals including cork on my last "classic" as old British engines tend to leak a bit anyway, I do remember initially it being without oil leaks as it was reconditioned but after tens of thousands of miles of use, and unlike many "classic" owners I don't drive them like Miss Daisy, (and a couple of head gasket failures) it did leak, certainly from the rocker cover even after I changed from cork seal to silicone seal (I wished I had done that many years before). One way to check if an old British made engine has oil in it is to look and see if any is dripping out. 😄

Splitting hairs I know but semi-synthetic and synthetic are generally used as marketing terms and tools, a good oil is a good oil be it mineral, semi or fully synthetic (and you can often get better of those if you need/want to). Best to buy first to cover your particularly needs and second to cover your particular wants and then not worry too much what the label is. I've had people tell me they've never changed the oil in a car and run the car fine for years, not my choice but good luck to them, others, particularly engineers, tell me any oil (of recommended grade/weight) is fine in an older car buy whatever is on low price offer and that may well often be fine too, depends on your needs and wants. You could hardly want more consumer choice in things like engine oils, possibly far too much for a long time, and ever increasing thanks to modern motor manufacturers' demands (like VW's). 😄

Either I have remembered wrong (very possible) or things must have change as I am sure last time I put up a stockist you put they were hard to get to and P&P is very prohibitive to Greece. I don't see the ones I linked to but 5W-40 EE LONGLIFE in 1l bottles is with a 14.1 (and a 85.9) if you like those figures. I will have to think of a blender you don't get over there next time. 😄 That's the first one I saw when looking but it's the US of A version, I expected you were attracted by the labelling having "High Zinc Formula" and "Flat Tappets" and on site "Ideal for applications where the extra protection of a higher-viscosity oil is desired. Excellent for motor homes and older vehicles, as well as many types of modern equipment and compatible with some motorcycles.". Do bear in mind it's the additive package that matters rather than just one ingredient of the package and old American cars and bikes are different from European ones, their motor manufacturers stuck with old designs and technologies as generally that suited their corporations, in many ways they remain backwards facing. You let the SL (up to 2004) and no VW approval go by (as I would) - AMSOIL Premium Protection Synthetic 10W-40 (AMO) Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 14.6 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D445) - 95.9 https://www.amsoil.com/p/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-amo/ I assume you buy in 3.874 litres (1 US Gallon) cans, it might be less expensive to see if Amsoil sell a more local equivalent (or near equivalent) version and or look for small racing oil supplier businesses as I have sometimes found they offer lower prices especially if the blender is changing labels or cans and want clearance of current label/can supply. You have loads of choices for oil so as Dave Allen almost said - and may your oil belief go with you. 🙂

Don't get stuck too much on the numbers, a better oil with better base stock and better additive package will offer better and wider protection for longer. If you only want numbers then why not cover the range with a 5w-50 (bearing in mind 5w and 50 or any other set are ranges and oils vary where they are in the ranges and how long they stay at their figures). Castrol GTX 15W-40 – Viscosity - Kinematic 100C (ASTM D445) – 13.9 Viscosity - Kinematic 40C (ASTM D445) – 105 https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/0E6EE706A3D90A638025842A006879BB/$File/BPXE-BDPMLT.pdf Amsoil Europe on their ‘Find the right oil’ don’t have a 10w-40 listed for a 2000 Felicia 1.3 but instead Extreme Power Motor Oil 0W-40, Extreme Power Motor Oil 0W-30, Synthetic European Motor Oil MS 5W-40, Synthetic European Motor Oil LS 5W-30, Synthetic European Motor Oil FS 5W-40 and Synthetic European Motor Oil FS 0W-40, of course as with all databases theirs could have errors. So I don’t know which Amsoil 10w-40 D.FYLAKTOS might be using. https://amsoil.eu/products/car-engine-oils/ As they’re not easy to get in Greece the following are for example only. Millers EE Performance Engine Oil 5w50 - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. – 18.4 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/8209-EE-Peformance-5w50.pdf Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w40 - Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. –13.6 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-c3-5w40/ Millers EE Performance Engine Oil 10w40 – Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. – 13.8 https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-10w40/ The oil belief merry-go-round tends to make the riders feel dizzy and/or sick so it's better to get off it sooner than later. 🙃 Usual chart.

VW being VW have their own specification of coolant, the number used to be on the coolant tank unless it varies for your country the current VW spec is G12evo (TL774L) available as pre-mixed or concentrate, . You can check this and get lots more information by reading the Owner's Manual. Available from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models HTH. From 6/2022 English version of manual. -

@Zuglie thanks for reporting back - new battery battery, alternator and belt should take your daughter a lot, lot, lot longer to drain the battery but it's still possible if your daughter is a high electric user, especially on short journeys or parked up engine off, charging up various items whilst just finishing those important "media" and phone calls that go on because the journey was too short to say and hear or send and view everything needed (or not). 😄

Thanks for the update. If the battery was sorted/changed/'coded' correctly then you'd want someone with an relevant scan tool for the complex VW programs to get to the bottom of this with a report and diagnosis, as you've found a cheap general reader will only turn the light off until the engine is run again (I see I did previously offer my a link to VCDS owners that might be able to help with this, some for beer token. My wife's car was some sort of Dealer use car bought at 10k-mile use (abuse?) the start/stop is push-buttoned off as routine and the car get used with most weeks work commute of under 2 miles 4 or 5 days a week so I occasionally get the battery charger maintainer out for preventative use and very, very occasionally give the car a "blow out" on the very few times I can as my wife is by far the main driver. Until last year I used various 60s and 70s "classic" (over priced, over valued old) cars as daily, work, commute, club, holiday use for 30 years or so, never had a starter handle, never needed one on the "classics" but I did on my early 90s English car and as it wasn't available so I parked the car on a slope and bumped started it (no cat), once in reverse on a hill and then stalled it doing a "three-point turn" luckily it was just a matter of taking the handbrake off and bump starting it again and quick with the brake and clutch pedals so I didn't charge back down the hill in reverse. It'll be interesting to hear what your problem(s) are with your car and how they're resolved as they may well be different to others with start/stop issues.

Attached link is a map of VCDS owners that might be able to help with running a report and resets, some perhaps for just beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

If it's not a manual AC with the usual fan speed controller failure then as it's VW I always suspect the computer programs, have look on the web for any reset procedures. Or if you know anyone with an appropriate VW scan tool you can look for any errors or things amiss and/or carry out a reset on the tool maybe.

Quick thoughts, if you have access to a good scanner that could give you a report with dates for components and programs, or you can get build info from the VIN by paying a few euros to a chap on eBay (I don't have the link at the moment) or if you ask here (Superb forum perhaps) someone might be able to date your engine. number.

Sorry I though you might 'pressing' the other 'button' ('Door unlocking: All doors' instead of 'Central locking') my wife's car isn't available to see if there's a down arrow next to 'Central locking' it's not a facility we'd use so I can't remember if it's even available on her car. At the service was any recall or programs updates done or is the issue starting after the service a coincidence, did the Dealership say £350 to fit the OSR lock would resolve the issue, or was there another reason to replace that lock, as the problem remains. This situation is disappointing but unfortunately not that surprising when dealing with some in the motor trade. If the Dealership doesn't want to be reasonable I think I'd try finding a good auto-electrician, or independent garage, with a VW appropriate scanner to diagnose the issue rather than a policy of fitting a series of parts replacements at your expense.

From the 2016/11 'Amundsen and Bolero infotainment systems Owner's Manual' for Central locking - Automatic locking - Activate/deactivate automatic locking when starting off - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

@Zuglie does your Ancell cover more than basics on the MK3 Fabia and if so how good or not do you find it as a scanner? I know it's heresy here but I personally find the VCDS horrible, old and outdated and now my neighbour has moved away I no longer have access to his Topdon and am thinking of perhaps getting a scanner that also covers some service stuff on the Mk3 Fabia.

Or a part of the alternator, or a wire or connection to it. Did you clear any/all error codes? I hope your daughter knows about very generally how a car works and use of electric in the car (and home) otherwise she might hammer the battery to an earlier replacement especially on a 2019 car. 12.55v is ok but if the battery's not being charged it won't remain that way long, if you're not able to sort the alternator quickly, if your daughter doesn't already know you might want to show or suggest to your daughter she uses an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to fully recharge the battery. Better if daughters aren't fully reliant on any man including their fathers (better for the father too). 😄

You might be better looking at and perhaps asking on the 'Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/ And perhaps have a look and perhaps post in the 'Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/406-skoda-classic-cars-parts-for-sale/ HTH.

Just driving the car may turn off the warnings and you could also whilst try before driving off turning the power steering wheel from full lock one side to full lock the other side to convince the computers the battery is up to the task. If you get no response to this here you could try posting on the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Is the alternator ok?

Only last week I checked my neighbour's car for something like a blocked drain as there seemed to be a lot of condensation inside the car. It was very easy to remove the plastic bonnet to windscreen cover and check and that too just had a hole but everything was bone dry in there, Sod's Law I then remembered the bathroom mat/towel thing in the boot. I expect you already know to change the cabin filter and clean (and dry?) its housing as much as possible, that was the cause of the condensation in my neighbour's car a few years back. Drying out the footwell carpet is a bit of a pain but very necessary as the Mk3 Fabia gets enough condensation as it is (if not garaged), I put the two Pingi Car-Dehumidifier bags in my wife's only this weekend (other Pingi bags and other makes and products are available). -https://pingi.com/product-category/car-dehumidifiers/ Good luck.

@HyperDog thanks for your reply. To cover 'coding' the battery first, see following link for someone in your area that might be able to do this for a beer token or low cost but do check that they cover the Mk3 Fabia and double check any data entry they make. There was a post about a paid pro auto-electrician that put 7ah instead of 70ah - now of course if the computer program was actually clever it'd never allow this as it's (so far) out of parameter but that's computer programing for ya. Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Our noise suggests to me it might be a bush somewhere but it's same causes as your noise, I was hoping the noise might have stopped when the poor quality factory front dampers were replaced (for more of the same) at 6 years old and 41k-miles (I know of 20 and 25+ year old Toyotas with the original dampers on them) but no such luck. When my battery was 'coded' by a local chap (no longer) on that list it was also an opportunity to delete any error codes which I always think is a good idea, any minor upsets or brain-farts to and from the computers are cleared and that might settle the poor things a little (just my non-technical opinion of course). ETA: I guess you might already be doing so, but, appropriate use of an appropriate battery charger will help extend the life of your current and replacement battery, AFAIK which ain't a lot, the car battery remains one of the most oversold car parts, by being replaced before it really needs to (and I'm all for replacing parts before they play up badly or fail, or even beyond optimum but still working).

Sorry I've never looked, have you a photo or have you not yet took off any plastic covers between bonnet and screen. I think, IIRC, the earlier models were just a hole, but I sit to be corrected, and as the Mk1 and Mk2 seemed to be built better than the Mk3 I'd not expect the additional expense of a plastic cover for the Mk3, but I could well be wrong and my wife's car isn't here to look (and I'd not risk braking any plastic covers on my wife's car especially when it's cold, dark, autumn, unless was absolutely necessary).

I don't know how alike or unalike the VW stalks are to each other but the other thread attached might, or might not, give you a related/unrelated idea. Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaning Lubricant might, or may not, help more than switch cleaner alone.

@HyperDogsorry I've lost the knack of quick(-ish) searching on here. There are posts where some have said they done a like-for-like battery change without coding and the car and battery charging were fine after months / years of use (IIRC) - but I offer no evidence of this and I have a poor memory. 😀 Perhaps given that you know about b*ll*cks 'advice' from VW and Skoda UK (wished I'd seen about the lack of need for belt changing, £460 unnecessarily added to the local Dealership's turnover, about £1,000 for a mate's VW only earlier this year too) you may be able to accept the following linked post. If you have easy no-or-little-cost access to a suitable scanner then just changing a digit on the original serial number is all that's required to let the lord and masters VW cars' computers know a new battery has been fitted (see attached at bottom of this post). I think you're right not to trust VW /Skoda as far as you can draw fresh breath away from one their earlier diesel products. Battery coding post. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499676-battery-causing-various-errors/#comment-5607340 Attachment. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf HTH. P.S. Does your Fabia have the slight clunk/knock over humps and occasional amber triangle-of-doom warnings when not required and tardy warnings when required?

Well done on keeping your battery so long. Loads of posts and threads on this site about if there's a need to 'code' on an identical battery change (same type, i.e. EFB for EFB or AGM for AGM, same (or near enough) Ah) and real life experiences. Short answer is some have found it not necessary. The VW coding numbers that the old batteries had new ones don't too. You can search for yourself and/or I'll put up some links to threads after I've had my/me dinner/tea.

Note: this is not a fitting guide for changing rear brake discs and pads but notes and tips from when I done so. Hopefully this will also give encouragement as if I can do the job just about anyone can. For the rear ("230 mm") brakes of my wife's 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI SE I needed 13 & 15 mm spanners, Torx T30 driver and borrowed a mate's rewind tool with suitable end plate that turned the piston back. There was not a need to remove the caliper carrier cradle to get the old discs off and new ones on, a [ ETA: H7(?) or H8(?), I forget, see following posts ] hex would have been required if I had needed or wanted to remove the caliper carrier cradle. The discs are held by one T30 headed short screw, one of these screws had already fell out on one discs but the other side was in so tight I wished I had loosened them before removing the caliper and pads so my tip would be to loosen these off whilst you can still apply the handbrake or other easy bracing. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One, or two, of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). I used the Pagid brand for both pads and discs as that's what I put on the front a few years ago and they seemed OK in use. Rear Pagid pads included new (thread-lock applied) screws. Replacing the discs & pads is a very dirty but uncomplicated job but being brakes needs to be done thoroughly and properly, don't worry about any macho boasting of how quick it can be done rather allow multiples of time to do the job thoroughly and well, plus Sod's Law you'll find other stuff that you should do whilst you're there. Hope some of this helps and applies to your model. I also wrote a notes and tips post/thread for the front discs and pads previously. -