nta16

It won't hurt to use a battery charger and could possibly be a real benefit, just follow the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' which also has "A charging current of 0.1 of the total battery capacity (or lower) is that which should be used until full charging is achieved.". That's just, for example, if the battery is 60Ah (the number will be on the battery) the charger wants to be, or have a setting of, 6 amps or less. Personally I prefer 2 amps to 4, and 4 amps to 6 but the lower the more time and patience is need to fully recharge the battery. Some charger automatically switch themselves to a maintenance setting once the battery is fully charged meaning even less to do of an already very little anyway.

Thanks, pity I couldn't spell 'ease'. 😄 I'm with a blast up the M4 being (a bit) more fun than 10 minutes in Cardiff city centre on a Friday afternoon tho' I prefer the narrow twisty roads of north Wales. My personal experience with friends and neighbour's car batteries is that sometimes just driving the car isn't sufficient to recover the battery enough, partial recharges (with battery charger or alternator) keeps the battery at a lower level of charge so so increasing the likelihood of a battery 'fail' when really it's a fail of the owner/driver really. It depends how low the battery was taken and its condition as to how well it recovers. I've recovered car batteries that were well "dead" and they've gone on to give useful life after. A car battery in a Mk1 Fabia, depending on its use, should have a very long life but if seriously depleted at any stage for any reason may need help to fully recover (as much as possible) I personally have always found with a battery charger a lower longer recharge to be better and more successful longer term than a high fast charge with. As I put before IIRC in 46 years I've only once had to use a battery charger on a car that I've owned because the battery went flat and that was totally my fault. With my wife's VWSkoda Fabia MK3 with stop/start I invested (£23 but you can get £15 ones) in a battery charger conditioner as it's a different kettle of fish, VW and start/stop, modern car with complex German programing and lots of modern "necessities" and I use it when required and as a preventative as my wife has a low tolerance of faults in her cars, the use of the battery charger and maintainer is very easy and requires very, very little effort but does require two things that may be out of stock for many, time and patience.

As my wife owns a 2015 (Fabia) VWSkoda for your sister I'd be looking at older smaller cars, preferably from Toyota or Honda. Whether a Citygo is suitable for your sister over a Fabia depends on her expectations in a car.

Up to you who you believe, I often put on here as the RAC man has advised. If you are going with the drive then assuming your alternator is fully functioning and your battery is otherwise in a good state of health and good state of charge then generally the less electric you use whilst driving possibly the better until the battery is fully recovered. Too hot for such for me. Without a full in depth charge you may find it more likely (or you may not) come this autumn or winter (or perhaps sooner if we have record or near record temperatures ) that you might or need (or you might not) want to charge or change your battery depending on it's present state and what you do in the meantime. Premature or distressed battery sales are very common. Bear in mind the RAC has seen your battery I haven't or any other poster here. If I was in Cardiff I'd help you out with great easy and very little effort and show you how you can do the same and prevent or make low battery less likely in future with great easy and very little effort - but I'm not so can only offer my best wishes.

I might be wrong as my memory's not the best and I have enough potential (and past) VW woes with my wife's car not to follow the various ones on VW auto boxes as my wife's car is a 5-speed manual, thank gawd, but I might have seen someone made up their own kit, or it might have been for a different issue or I'm on Fantasy Island again. If you could do a temporary repair or bridge it out or whatever so that the computer programs are happy in case it has some knock effect and I'd always clear any codes before trying to start the car again just in case as with somethings and/or scanner perhaps the VW programs seem to take some convincing that things are sorted, first few tries might not stick, though I'm sure others might disagree with me on this. 😄 ETA: I see toot has bumped the P (you off) position for the Fabia autobox thread.

I wasn't thinking of you doing the work but the photos show the drain holes to the sides but not middle section IIRC. Well if you're sorted now that was easy. 😄 Drove my wife's Mk3 today and this afternoon after start up it got the rough idle from the computer warming the sensor, only put the other day on here it's rough but not misfire rough so Sod's Law this afternoon it was so rough you would perhaps consider it some sort of misfire perhaps but if you wait it settles and then seems a very smooth idle because of what was just experienced. Imagine telling a perspective buyer "oh, that's nothing wrong, it's supposed to do that.". 😄

As long as the Snap-On covers Fabia Mk3 specifically rather than just generically and is up to date it should give good error codes and diagnostics for your car I guess (don't know). The battery won't be causing your current issue just to check it doesn't cause any in future, for 'coding' the battery the type, Ah and serial number change (by one digit is fine) are the important elements, see here for more info. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf Sorry I can't remember the details of position P but @toot will know, might have been a Recall or fix kit, I forget. Have you done a multimeter or scanner diagnostics from battery through to starter motor connections but then there's loads of stuff that could potentially be in the physical systems and VW's complex computer programs that could prevent engine fire-up, even if you only have the one error code a full scanner read out report can be useful but you probably already have the two points to start from. Have you checked if there are any admitted Recalls for your car or more secret technical bulletins (TPIs? I forget the jargon/name), admitted Recalls from here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Hi, welcome. Lots of info on here about that but @toot will be along to give you more details and links. Is your scanner specific to VW for diagnosis and did you 'code' the new battery (if not almost exact like-for-like change).

This recent thread should answer your question, follow to the end for photos of Mk2.-

From VWSkoda free pdf download copy of 'Owner's Manual' . - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Yes some you seem to need to stand on your head to get at them, my neighbour's (non-VW) was easy enough to get at as it was just behind the glovebox drawer which came out easily, getting the glovebox back in was one of those hit and miss things where some would have it done in a couple of seconds but on the wrong day a bit of fiddling around and a couple of attempts and the wonder why it didn't just drop in. Still doesn't answer your question but just for future reference, according to Mann filters yours looks easy access for the able-bodied and younger owner than you or I.

Sorry don't know about the drainage but posting about air-con servicing earlier makes me think to suggest to check your cabin filter also in case that's wet or damp too (can't remember the Billy Connelly story either).

Withdrawn given previous posts I've just seen (missed before).

My wife's car gets the increased idle at times and it isn't smooth then but not like misfires, this is one of the times I class as the computer doing its thing (or interfering at other times) there seems to be a variety of engine bay noises at a variety of times.

Do check with the manufacturer as in the Amazon list it has a tick against "ACSM/airbag" in the ECU reset so I might be wrong and even manufacturer's websites have errors and omissions and missing updates. I don't know if Ancel has a user's forum but if it does you might get the info from there too.

Not usually in my experience of my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI but it does depend on what the car's computer programs are up to, different engine bay noises at different times. Last two fuller tank fill ups have been with Tesco Momentum 99 and the the car seems smooth to my wife and I when driving it but we might be fooling ourselves and on Fantasy Island. Last top was with Esso 99 ethanol free (labelled E5) to get some for my neighbour's petrol lawn mower to save me cleaning the carb again after winter. BUT - my wife's car isn't remapped Stage 1.

Well I was tempted to put about plastic and extreme heat but I'm sure loyal owners or VW / Skoda fans would say what great quality the plastic is. If it's the swivel bit that's not freely moving then I'd give it a careful spray using the straw behind the cup part with GT85 (forget WD-40 Multi-Use). I use GT85 on cars and homes as a penetrating/releasing lubricant and longer lasting lubricant with PTFE and nice smell, I used to use it on my pushbikes in the 80s when it was a British company, sadly now part of the American Corp, WD-40 Company.

Short answer - (my opinion and experience only) full air-con service, maybe, or too soon or too frequently. Longer answer - it used to be in at 4-years/40k-miles, my wife's Fabia was done at 5 years and 41k-miles, whether it was worth doing I don't know. You can change (and upgrade) the cabin filter yourself if you want and spray in antibacterial there and other places. I changed the cabin filter on my neighbour's car (that hardly ever leaves the hardstanding) as the cabin smelt musty and it was very dirty and damp, I gave that area a quick wipe clean with whatever was under the kitchen sink or in the bathroom (forget what) and the smell went away, the few times I've test run the air-con since there's no smell. AFAIK the air-con on the car hasn't been touched but it's a very low mileage Korean car from 2005 not a over-complex VW and from 2020. I'm all for regular servicing and maintenance of the whole car (which often boils down to clean and lubricate) but other than changing the cabin filter and perhaps cleaning I'm not sure the air-con service needs doing too regularly or wait until it something plays up but Sod's Law and how you feel about leaving it can come into play.

You could also try pulling the seatbelt out to its full extent and check the webbing has any muck, pet hairs or such on it, "hoover" and careful cleaning if so, any fraying may also hinder movement. If the seatbelt pulls through a slot in plastic covers then check the aperture is also clean and clear and that the pivot bit moves freely.

Does Ancel VD700 reset the code? - At £140 I doubt it, but rather than using an Amazon link have a look at the manufacturer's specification, unless I've missed it it doesn't show and I don't know if it could be added at extra cost. £140 may sound like a lot but it really isn't for a scan tool, it would be for just a code reader, but I'm not saying this isn't a good scan tool for the cost, I've no idea, depends on how good its programing is (do keep it updated as it's free for "lifetime". In case the people or person you want doesn't see your post here's a map of those who might be able to help you. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Yes sorry I was confused and thought you had just missed putting the decimal point - but you had forgotten to mention that you were on LPG. And other things, for that, with petrol, I would look at live data of fuel trim, short and long and record, from the dispensing fuel pump, the actual amount of petrol added back from a full car tank (first end click of dispensing fuel pump) to full car tank (first click) again and the mileage covered to calculate the overall miles per gallon (l/100km) as a check or conformation of any computer figures I got from any machine. The cause of any consumption may not always be rectified with a VCDS but you can get a lot of information from them to interpret. I have never used LPG or VCDS so can be of very little (or none) help with those. Your initial post and site nameplate gives very little information, if you had just been given the answer to only which boxes to look at on the VCDS would you have started with checking the spark plugs or toot's good advice in the last post. This is not Twitter or Facebook or other sites where a very quick but complicated question with very little information will begiven a very very quick answer that's wrong. You asked how to diagnose the problem, if you only want to do that using VCDS then Ross-Tech have a forum. -https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php but you are very welcome here, I will butt out and leave you with toot and others.

That seems a shame and a bit wasteful as it's on the shelves of places like Halfords so some people must still use it, as said better offered to those with "classic" and "vintage" engine cars especially the very agricultural British made engines by British engineering as it does no harm to them. Perhaps a charity shop could sell it.(?)

I can't remember anything about LPG as it was so long ago that it had a very slight interest from car drivers over here but toot and I are big fans of air filters and housing being clean, at 180, 000 miles it should be on its third or fourth air filter at least - but that's just engine stuff, the rest of the car is 180,000 miles (290,000 km) too. When did this 0-62 mph test become a thing with secondhand cars, a sports or speed modified version perhaps but for others(?), can you pull off in 2nd to save a second (if not the clutch).

LPG plugs for LPG only then(?).

@toot whilst it's just the two of us here - would this petrol/lpg Fabia Mk3 have different to factory plugs fitted?