nta16

@CReese123- if it's not too late, or you've not already seen the post, I put the following post with notes and tips about rear changing discs and pads including a link to an early post about changing front pads and discs. I've not changed that many sets of brake discs, pads (and shoes and drums) but the rear for the 2015 Fabia were the easiest I've ever done and front pads and discs second easiest, though its still a messy job yet with cleanliness required and like all jobs on cars can involve a bit of awkwardness and Sod's Law will ususally apply, well it does for me. The post (and post within post) - HTH.

Worn bushes and things like worn-out front dampers as on my wife's 2015 are examples of the poorer quality parts used on these cars which aren't suffered on other marques, German engineering quality . . . 😒

Andrew, sorry to say I agree and think that you trying to get any type of warranty recourse would be more pain for you and fruitless. If the BCM is the cause of the faults then you could also consider having it repaired or replaced with a used one to save money on the cost of the part. I don't know where the BCM is located but it possibly involves a bit of labour to get at it and put things back again but labour rates can vary from Dealerships to other garages and methods of getting to the BCM and putting things put back may (I don't know) vary too taking less labour time so less pounds per hour for less hours. Personally I'm surprised we don't see more faults with the car's computers, car build and general parts from the times of covid, car chip shortages and later general car parts shortages. Personally I'd not want products from those times so might prefer to consider an earlier (or later, as even newer cars get broken for parts) used BCM, subject to it being suitable of course. Good luck with whatever routes you take, I've had many (some expensive) car parts poorly made or fail when they shouldn't have so I know how you feel and how useless it can be to try to improve matters beyond replacing the part.

Could be lots of things which may or may not be directly related to the work you've just had done. Having the car up on a lift and looking underneath might show some faults with the car or the work done on it (or to it). The problems caused by tyre fitters and mechanics / "technicians" can be unbelievable to those not well experienced with people in the motor trade. On the other hand my wife's car has a sort of clunk / knock when going over potholes and bumps and I've seen on here other Fabia Mk3 owners have similar and unable to track down the cause. VW design, build and parts quality isn't as good as its past reputation, same for the other German marques. I would also suggest returning the car to where the work was done as if you're lucky you might encounter some of the decent people that are in the motor trade (but they often move on as they don't fit in). Sometimes even good people have bad days and not so good people can do decent work so even if either don't want to admit to a mistake it could be put right.

That TotalCarCheck has sent me cross-eyed and made my head hurt, IF it's accurate the figures don't add up, I'd not put too much faith in any of these types of report even the much more expensive ones, not all accidents and repairs are reported and recorded and all databases have errors and omissions. You can check MoT (and "road tax") and MoT history with the gov for yourself for free and verify some of the TotalCarCheck figures. - Check the MOT history of a vehicle - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history (and if you have the V5C reference number the station(s) that done the tests). Check if a vehicle is taxed - https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-tax (see if the road tax was as tardy as the MoTs appear to be). What was the advisory about EPC warning light? You can ask a Skoda Dealer for the full service history of the car to see if other servicing work was done in addition to oil changes and inspection, such as brake fluid / engine air filter / spark plugs / etc.. Offside Rear Seat belt damaged (7.1.2 (b) (i)) - https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/7-other-equipment#section-7-1-2 First MoT wasn't done until 7/11/22 according to TotalCarCheck so doesn't tie in with March "road tax". I think you need more information about this car and the mileages verified, and more info on what, if any, additional servicing, maintenance and repairs have been done. You can ask the Dealership for and about these things and if the car was leased, if they don't want to help then walk away from them. Even those experienced at driving cars may miss or not detect issues with a car on a test drive, the computer programs and all the driver aids on a 2019 car can give a false feel plus a 2019 car makes the driver so remote from the mechanics and feel of the car - so if quite experienced or quite a noob a car might seem fine on a test drive. Don't worry about asking any questions, none will be silly (although some answers, especially some of mine sometimes, can be confused or wrong). Anything on the GPF? What are all the tyres like, same make/model, condition and tread? What are the brakes like, wear, (the braking system, which includes the tyres, is the most important thing on the car, followed by steering and suspension)? General condition of exterior and interior? This might be a good or even very good example but if not there are plenty of other cars for sale.

Seat belt damage on a 4-year old car doesn't sound good. A car that's been sitting in a Dealership and/or not used for a long time could have a low car battery that might charge up fine but I'd not trust a Dealership to do that proper so would insist on a new CORRECT battery if I was to buy the car then you know you have a new (hopefully correct) battery in good condition and only you can be responsible if it doesn't last long or goes flat. A low car battery can throw up all sorts of warnings before the lights and warnings actually spell it out to the driver that the car battery is low and lack of proper use of the car can also contribute to possibly warning lights and messages but so can other issues and problems. Plugging in a VW appropriate scan (diagnostics) tool may give you more information towards the why the EPC light was on if the Dealership has been too lazy to clear all codes (never under estimate how lazy or careless Dealerships/garage/mechanics/"technicians" can be. If I seem cynical it's because of decades of dealing with English Dealerships/garage/mechanics/"technicians", even if you buy a decent Japanese car like a Honda or Toyota you still deal with English Dealerships, well in Ingerlund at least. There's no telling on a site how good or bad a car is to buy, look at the condition of the car ,look at any servicing history (is is full or bits missing) look at the mileage, when was it done, higher mileage can be better than low mileage and lack of use. It used to be that the Dealerships only kept the car for two months before moving it on if it didn't sell but I've no idea in the times of Covid, parts shortages and recent times. A 2019 VW car is more (over) VW complex than even (over) complex earlier VW cars so I'd suggest you approach it with even more care, the car's lack of use may be easily overcome if it has previously been well used and well looked after and maintained and fully serviced on time. The failed seatbelt may, or may not be a sign of something, or nothing. If you want a more carefree purchase you may consider looking elsewhere.

Thanks for reply. Fair enough, with VW's over complicated computer programs who knows, not I, just that I'm confused as to how you got in the car if neither remote would unlock the door(s), unless the door(s) were already unlocked using the key blade sets the alarm off in my experiences of my wife's VWSkoda car ownership. Not to worry, I'm glad you're sorted as my wife had to buy a new remote, £143 and £41.40 to 'code' it, both from VWSkoda Dealer. I always suggest not thinking of the second remote as a spare but to use both keys alternatively in some respect as that way both remotes and batteries get regular use so wear more evenly and you know both work and where both remotes are, rather than one put somewhere forgotten about and possibly with a low battery anyway. Also for others, my wife's had a non-working remote after a battery change because the battery wasn't fully located against the connecting peg (a GM Vauxhall car and Dealership changing the remote battery as part of the car's service), I'm not saying that was the issue this time as it happened with both remotes and I wasn't there as I was with the GM Vauxhall remote. Again thanks for your feedback and info.

@chris666 thanks for reporting back But are you sure you didn't just do a key (remote) synchronization as in the first part of AGFalco's post on 5th October, as detailed in the Owner's Manual? From 2017/11 Owner's Manual. - If (the VW) "emergency" unlocking the driver's door using the key blade as soon as the driver's door is opened the alarm goes off.

Just for those not in the UK, 25th was a typing error, it would be 22nd MoT pass, and congratulations to Mike on those, as in the UK the first MoT is due when the car is 3 years old. And I totally agree about not swapping it for a new modern car, of any capacity.

@Hassan_skoda personally I suggest you buy an appropriate battery charger and maintainer (I use a 4-amp) and recharge the battery, it simple, cheap and very little effort and you will know the battery is full (if you leave the charger and maintainer on long enough). Check your Owner's Manual for the procedure. Recharging the battery this way way when required, or before as a preventative measure, will help with the battery life and more avoid the various warning messages and lights that a low battery can cause, a good battery isn't cheap and can be a bit of hassle to replace particularly if not like for like in spec. Just driving the car often isn't enough to fully restore the battery and the more often and the lower the battery is allowed to get the more likely the battery will need replacing sooner and various warning lights and messages might show. It depends when you took this reading, best taken after the car has been parked for a few hours so it's not showing the recent journey charge, and you want the car's computer systems have settled as much as they might as they may draw 0.2v or 0.3+v which you will have to allow for. Hot weather affects car batteries which shows up more at this time of year and winter because of usually additional load on them because of the weather and longer nights so the likes of the AA get busier with their number one cause of callouts.

All was merely as example, you have the choice of many different engine oils. Personally particularly for a car engine of your vintage I would ignore the added unnecessary VW numbers compliance (with my wife's 2015 Skoda you only get the VW number and not the multigrade weights specified). But anyway. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/7708-EE-Performance-10w40.pdf API oil categories. - https://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-categories-and-classifications/oil-categories#tab-gasoline

Just read the discussion, people get stuck on grade numbers being absolute when they are not and do not allow for degradation as the oil is used in the engine with better oils staying at their figures for longer plus offering more and further protection, one 10w-40 might perform differently to another 10w-40 even within the same oil blender's range of 10w-40 oils. As I've put before oil seems to be a lot about beliefs. A big oil producer/blender will possibly have more consistency with their base oils and additives, on the other hand smaller blenders may use those base stocks with their own additive package which might be better, or perhaps not quite as good. You as a consumer have so much choice. If you had a a factory stock car your baseline would be an oil that meets VWSkoda's 23-years old specifications, you could chose to take advantage or ignore any beneficial advances in the oil products since API SH (pre-2001). You may also want to comply with the VW 50* ** commands relevant to your model. - https://addinol.de/en/products/lubricants-for-the-automotive-sector/engine-oil/specifications/#OEM As an example only for you as I know you can't get Millers this is the type of oil I would look at, having had a 50 year old engine, that was designed over 70 years that is still going strong now and was uprated for performance, used through English summers and winters ( -10c to 30+c) for 16 years. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/ee-performance-engine-oil-10w40/ I will end my contributions to the thread with my usual oil viscosity chart attached, cheers. -

My mistake, it was the other chap who had his dad's old car then. And in the case of this particular oil it says "Universal bi-synthetic (PAO + esters)" Your engine may be 23 years old but the design I would guess basically goes back a lot further so that's why I put to check with Mannol. Did/does VW Skoda even specify 5w-40 oil. You could try a better quality 5w-40 or better a quality 10w-40 or perhaps a better quality 15w-50 for the hot traffic in hot weather and as it does not get that cold where you are (or better quality 5w-40, 5w-50, 10w-50) or accept what you use is as good as it gets for you, as always you will decide. Good luck, I am sure you will research until you eventually find what you want and suits. 👍

Not all 10w-40 oils are equal, not all 5w-40 oils are equal, not all 0w-40 oils are equal. Synthetic is often more of a marketing term that true description. But 5w and 0w take more to achieve than 10w so using a good quality 0w-40 suitable to your car (or your believes) might help more with cold running and cold starting and the 40 side of such an oil should deal better with the hot running and hot weather conditions better too as generally 0w-40 oils would generally be made better. If I remember correctly Mannol is a favourite of yours - MANNOL Legend + Ester 0W-40 - "Designed for gasoline and diesel engines (with and without turbocharging) a wide fleet of cars (cars, light SUVs, minibuses and light trucks of European and other manufacturers), where the performance level of API SN / CH-4 and lower, as well as ACEA A3/B4." - https://www.mannol.de/products/motor-oils-for-cars-and-transporters/synthetic-engine-oils/mannol-legend-ester-0w-40 Cheap prices too, but obviously you would want to check with Mannol that the oil is fully suitable for your car as you need to at least double check anything you see on the internet/forums.

That's why I use old kitchen spatulas that are plastic as they wont mark and have some flexibility yet hopefully are robust enough for most stuff. EnterName's kit looks good for the price.

You could check there's not a leaf/twig/branch or muck/grit/****/dust at the sensor or plastic shield in front of it at the rad grille, how dirty (or not) is, or was, your front number plate? If the problem hasn't returned then it might just have been a trapped leaf or summat.

Different car and part but the video gives the approach I'd take, his channel also has loads of other useful vids and some on Mk3 Fabia. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgwpKi9zg8k ETA: I've no idea where you'd want to start prying but I'd just use a plastic tool or tools (old kitchen food spatulas in my case) and experiment around the fitting to see where it grips and doesn't. Good luck let us know how you get on.

I got the following photo off of here or web, forget which. - I got a couple of the following rubber pucks for my jacks (other, and better are available) they smell a bit but come in resealable bags, they seem to work well enough on my wife's 2015 Fabia and my neighbour's car. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404331002770 With the Fabia I'd strongly recommend using (two) (M14 x 1.5) Alloy wheel Alignment fitting tool(s) as VW use wheel bolts instead of wheel studs so the wheel can slip off during fitting (or removal) which might cause back pain (guess how I know). Other and better tools are available but I bought one similar to the following, to go with the one a friend bought me as a gift. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171578652638 I put a thread up of my tips from when I changed the front pads & discs on my wife's 2015 Mk3 1.2 (90) SE, I've no idea if yours use the same fittings but it might help with generalisations. as I put in another thread replacing the discs & pads is a very dirty but uncomplicated job but being brakes needs to be done thoroughly and properly, don't worry about any macho boasting of how quick it can be done rather allow multiples of time to do the job thoroughly and well, plus Sod's Law you'll find other stuff that you should do whilst you're there. Hope some of this helps and applies to your model.

Just recently I fitted rear brake pads and discs to my wife's 2015 1.2 90, (185/60 r15) car at 57k-miles the discs were called 230mm. I used the Pagid brand (name?) for both pads and discs as that's what I put on the front a few years ago and they seemed OK in use. "Pagid is an OE brand of TMD Friction, and part of the Nisshinbo Group – the world’s biggest manufacturer of brake friction, and a truly global partner for the automotive industry." - https://pagid.com/about-us/ For front brakes I put up a thread in the Guides section (but forgot to put it was for a 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI SE car) - For the rear ("230 mm") brakes of my wife's 2015 Mk3 1.2 TSI SE I needed 13 & 15 mm spanners, Torx T30 driver and borrowed a mate's rewind tool with suitable end plate, There was not a need to remove the caliper carrier cradle to get the old discs off and new ones on, a H7 hex would have been required if I had needed or wanted to. The disc are held by one T30 headed short screw, on the back one of these screws had already fell out but the other side was in so tight I wished I had loosened them before removing the caliper and pads so my tip would be to loosen these off whilst you can still apply the handbrake or other easy bracing. I also personally recommend using (two) screw-in wheel hanger fitting/removal alignment guide pins when removing and refitting each road wheel. Normally only one is used but two is better. One or two of these could help prevent getting a back pain from the silly VW wheel bolts instead of fixed wheel studs (guess how I know this). Rear Pagid pads included new (thread-lock applied) screws. Replacing the discs & pads is a very dirty but uncomplicated job but being brakes needs to be done thoroughly and properly, don't worry about any macho boasting of how quick it can be done rather allow multiples of time to do the job thoroughly and well, plus Sod's Law you'll find other stuff that you should do whilst you're there. Hope some of this helps and applies to your model.

There's an intermittent problem with the 'Media' when using a memorystick (for music) in the USB slot (in front of the gearstick) sometimes it doesn't resume where it was left off from playing on the previous occasion. With advice from varooom I was able to check the fault wasn't with the memorystick, it appeared to report everything was fine. I have done the pressing and holding the 'MENU' button to get the hidden/service/engineer menu(s) and information to display hoping this will help those that may be able to tell me how to resolve the issue. I'm not bothered about updates unless needed to clear this issue (and wondered if perhaps the previous update might cause the issue?). I assume (always dangerous) I that need to load or reload a program or update but I don't know what or how it's done (extract, overwrite/update) I assume a program put on to a USB stick and then using the service menu(?) to get it inside the machine. Help and advice appreciated as resolving this issue would be good but me messing up and loosing the facility of music from a memorystick for my wife to listen to in her car would not be good. Thanks.

Cigar to toot, I was thinking you'd probably have disc rear brakes. 😄 Well the concrete floors on my sheds always seem very cold in winter. In your photo even though the sun is out your drive and car seem to be mostly in the shade so not drying as quickly as perhaps some of the other drives in your street, lots of variables though. You probably need to find other 2018 Fabia owners to see how their brakes perform as the brakes used in production could vary by supplier and/or quality or finish over any production period, not that it really matters as you have what you have. Driving every other day should help to keep things moving more freely, my wife's car is generally used everyday and has rear discs and I changed the front discs and pads due to wear, I can't say I was impressed with the wear over such mileage it had but the car was bought s/h with 10k-miles on it with totally unknown history as it was a Dealership car so who knows what they did or didn't do with it. If you have a good indy guy he'll be able to tell you and advise you about this matter, if he's good look after him they are so few now and getting rarer. Be good if you can report back as it all adds to the knowledge bank for others. My neighbour's car has just had to have two new front brake calipers due to rusty brakes as it rarely moves off the (old block paving) 'drive' but it is nearly 18 years old with only 28k-miles on it, as I've know the car from new I know it still has better brakes than my wife's 2015 VWSkoda Fabia has or had and it's "only a cheap Korean car".

As you often do you have totally twisted what I put and seem unable to understand any subtlety. I think you deliberately just want to jump in and belittle me - please stop it. You cannot know what drainage arrangement Tdawber's printed concrete driveway has unless you've seen it so cannot with your absolute certainty know that the "car is now sitting on pooling water".

Presumably you have(?) the mechanical type of handbrake, push a button and pull up and not the electronic type? 32k-miles isn't a big mileage for a 2018 car so does this mean your car is parked on the printed concrete driveway a lot and always in the same place and position and facing the same way as this might encourage more localised rust formation on the car affect the brakes (perhaps one side more than the other). I don't know if printed concrete holds more water on its surface because it has some sort of sealant covering it and what if any additional affect that'd make. Having lived in the same property for 41 years I think more recent winters have been generally more mild and more condensation around, last few years particularly I've seen more green moss(? I'm no gardener) on my plain concrete paths and different colours than I can ever remember seeing in the past and I live at the top of a hill where it can get quite blowy (I'm not a meteorologist either) at times. If you can just lie on your printed concrete driveway and have a look at the brakes from the centre of your car and see if there's rust or other - or wait until its in the air on a lift in the garage and look at it then or just leave it to the garage. Hopefully as you have low mileage you've based the car's servicing on time rather than distance, the brake fluid should have already been changed and due a change again or at least tested, brakes are the most important system on the car. For the far less important engine servicing that most owners worry more about toot and I also think the air filter should be changed or at least checked more frequently than VWSkoda servicing suggests. Let us know how you get on.

Probably your phone and/or the programs on it as the photos show clearly on my old PC, try using a different device.

In which case RM3's friend's charger will only be on for a number of second's and RM3 has the reassurance of knowing the battery is fully charged and the road trip to the beach yesterday with air con going, and any driving and battery use since, was sufficient to fully charge the battery and RAC man and I were perhaps talking out of our rear orifices on this occasion. Of the 0.01% of the planet's vehicles some feature in the AA UK statistics and I agree for the vast majority of those it wouldn't have been the battery was actually at fault or faulty, AA top 10 breakdown causes. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes