nta16

ETA: A further point of the posts is to give thread viewers a wider education/experience/view/opinion (delete as you find appropriate) view on dampers / springs / suspension which can be taken or left as desired. For qualification - I had Bilstein and Eibach (lowered kit) fitted to my Fiat Cinquecento Sporting after I took the car over from my wife. The car was badged and sold by Fiat as a Sporting - 53 hp, and great fun, especially on its factory standard lowered suspension. I saw a factory standard well used road example embarrass the likes of a reasonable Ford GT40 replica/kit at Bruntingthorpe proving ground on the bends but you see that often with small agile cars against big "fast" cars. As I suspected the Cinquecento was driven by a motorbike rider, he had recently bought it because he had 11 points (out of an allowed 12) on his driving licence and being a true bike fan didn't bother with cars much so was very impressed with how well the little car went. I have also had Koni, Spax, AVO and others on, or fitted to, various cars I have owned over the decades. I had two brand new factory built cars, both undisputable sports cars, one a year after the other, same model but slightly bigger engine in one, slightly smaller engine with "sports suspension" and slightly larger engine with "road suspension" and the sports suspension was the inferior on the UK roads with my use and driving. These of course are generalisations as I have no experience of a Felicia or its suspension.

Always a rush for the sexy parts like dampers and springs but often overlooked and often more effective is checking, or changing, the suspension bushes for good quality appropriate ones in good condition and as much as you can on the model any alignment/geometry. Makes and models of the sexy parts is often about what suits the driver or possibly the brand's advertising and marketing power or current fashion 'coolness' for those that are concerned about such things. Going to smaller manufacturers you can get custom assembled items for reasonable costs but I doubt even the bigger manufacturers have done much testing on less fashionable cars. ETA: last posts has proved me wrong - but maybe the exception that proves the rule. Then once you have what you have chosen there's a lot of driving and testing to see what settings suits you, your driving and the roads you are going on. I would take the recommendation of a Felicia owner and driver like RicardoM into serious consideration and the fact that they are designed in CR specifically for Felicia.

A 2019 Fabia Mk3 1.0 TSI, 90 owner may be able to give you a direct succinct answer but sorry that's not me in either owner or reply. A bit more information may be required, does your car have a Gasoline Particle Filter, which gearbox does it have, when does this happen before the engine fully warms up (oil temperature) or after, have you got a lot of electrical load on at the time (heaters, blower, air-con), what is the state of battery charge, are you driving it too slow for gears or road conditions. Have you put any car settings that might influence this. Have a read of your Owner's Manual for your car to see what might apply. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If you bought it from a Skoda Dealer or other garage you could go back and ask them. 100,000 miles is higher than normal (sometimes a very good thing) for a four year old car so do you have full servicing, maintenance and repairs history for the car and know when and what servicing, maintenance and repairs were most recently. Did you or the seller use a VW appropriate scan tool to check for error codes before or just after the bought the car. Good luck.

I don't know if there are any but have you looked and considered posting in 'Wheels & Tyres For Sale' section of Marketplace. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/333-wheels-tyres-for-sale/

If you have not already done so fully and properly check the state of charge (and if possible state of health) of the battery, I wouldn't assume that the Skoda garage has, unless they proved it. Have you checked that the battery terminal post clamps are secure (don't twist) and main earth connection is good? Start with the basics, and in this case easy clean-hands stuff. Put the battery on an appropriate battery charger maintainer (lower amps for longer is my preference) checking the car's Owner's Manual and consulting the manual for the charger for correct way with both (and slowest charge rate for my preference). Don't just think your battery is fine without doing proper checks. The computers run on 5v which gets a bit too thin when the battery is well below snuff (as you see I'm not technical). As you had all the warnings on the car it's unlikely to be your OBDEleven at error or the car's port socket or wiring. You may have more than one problem happening at the same time or one issue (like low battery) causing, or a contributing cause, to one/some/all other problems. Failing that it looks like you might have intermittent connections/wires/computers/programs problem(s) with the electrics/electronics or their parts otherwise the Skoda diagnostics (depending on what it was, or was done) would have picked up on it. Whenever you having (starting or) electrical problems having a fully charged battery will not hinder things but can help or even cure somethings but having a battery that is too low in charge can hinder or even stop diagnosis and/or repairs. It's so easy to charge the battery to full and if it doesn't need much it won't take long to find that out and whilst the charger is doing its work you can be doing anything, in warmth and comfort, more rewarding and pleasurable than working on a car. Leaving a charger maintainer on overnight and it's working while your sleeping, difficult to get easier car work than that. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Might, or might not, be the following as in my wife's 2015, good luck.

As pab567's reply earlier in the thread or you could try a radio reset, I'm not sure how you do that so you'll have to search for that, or it might be press and hold the on/off button until a menu screen or reset happens BUT I don't know if that's correct.

That could be a good or not so good sign, depends on the battery and perhaps the charger/ maintainer you used - time will tell, hopefully you might have one less light drain. 👍 Can't hurt, if doesn't need much or any it won't take long or be very quick, the battery is designed to be charged. Not sure if to laugh or cry for you, bad back is no laughing matter, I know from the stupid VW wheel bolts instead of studs giving me a type of Sciatica problem from about 5 years ago and off 'n' on up to even today - %$£*&^% "German engineering quality". I fight the VW computer programs on my wife's 2015 and on driving my neighbour's 2023 Nissan-Renault I had to find out how to cancel all the automatic driving "niceties", the automatic electronic handbrake is a pain and the computer's start/stop and thinking about acceleration from stop or not can have the car hesitating, or stopping on trying to get out quick on roundabouts, not just for me but my neighbour too - and he suggested using the automatic cruise control too! I don't think it's a good idea to be a passenger behind the steering wheel.

Yes, thanks. I tested the link and the password given and it goes to the file. comment-5813324 - click on the top bit below, as this bit below - Link below. @pab567 you might want this too.

@pab567 any advice you can give please?

Hi Liz welcome, the chap that used to have an update hasn't been on the forum for months for some reason(s) and the other chap that deals with infotainment IIRC doesn't have it. Assuming (always dangerous) the program relates to other models too you could try a Search of the site to see if anyone else on another model forum has it but you might have to go through the thread/posts.

Oh 😄 I thought it might be some fancy heater ventilation system. I wonder if causes less, more or no difference (not that don't know). Not being able to use it on some setting and the air-con coming on if the blower is on every time I switch to screen annoys me. Like I put I'm going to try not setting to screen straight off on misting (inside) mornings and I was going to try something else someone suggested but I forgot what as I don't get many cold / wet morning starts as it's my wife's car. She travels 2 miles to work and 2 miles back most working days now as she doesn't have to go to other work locations occasionally as much as she used to and she might go on other short journeys too. There are some longer runs sometimes for shopping (food or charity shops mainly) and they can be 10, 20 or 30 miles but as we no longer go to N. Yorks, or other places, there are few longer runs. As I've not put a coin slot meter on the car I notice lot more electrics are used when I'm not in the car. 🙂 I've not notice this with my wife's car, perhaps it happens but I've not noticed. Window open and you can get a face wash from the wipers or water blowing off the screen IIRC. On another thread someone has expressed surprise that the start/stop function has retuned by charging the battery rather than replacing it with new, and there have been other threads with unexpected warnings and issues that have gone away after charging the battery despite the posters taking some convincing because the battery seemed OK and the car starts fine, lets hope it's the same for you with the EPC light.

You have put more charge into the battery. As long as the battery holds the charge and/or you are not depleting the battery storage to how it was previously the start/stop should work (when it should) and you'll not get that and possibly other warnings. Running the battery down low does it no favours, doing it too much and/or too often will weaken it and make it difficult to recover it as much as if you didn't. Think of preventative charging or a battery maintainer or disconnecting the battery if the car isn't going to be used for weeks on end, that will extend the use and life of your existing battery and its replacement. Don't wait for warning lights or messages to come on, be proactive rather than reactive. Or buy a new battery and have to do less, until the cycle begins again. Good luck.

More (quick) thoughts.- As ignition coils start to get towards failing they can sometimes do odd things and not just the one thing many say. Electronics and electrics (items, wires, connectors) can sometimes function differently or not function at different operating temperature so fine, or not, when cold or hot and not function or so well at different temperature. I am personally not keen on Colour Tuner as it is a bit subjective and in the UK at least different petrols and different petrol additives, one ethanol and lead replacement additive gives the the plugs a salmon or darker salmon colour.

'Intelligent'. 😄 You have to use what you have there but personally as I put I like to use as low amps as I can for as long as I can. ? 🙃 That's not a "feature" I know about but it sounds like the type of thing to help run the car battery down, like 'come home(?) lights. Do you also has KESSY keys? My wife bought one of those for home windows after seeing a friend use one on their very condensated windows, I knew she would, but our windows are very minimal bedroom only really so a couple of uses and it takes up valuable shed space in its box now, for years. Are you sure you don't have a leak somewhere , or carrying damp clothes or dog blankets in the car - but the model does seem to mist up for itself anyway. We've never noticed that, used to notice that with soft tops, not with the old British soft tops mind as they didn't have seals that went on the roof and own other side, British forethought ! 😄. Later modern (at the time) cars had the electric windows drop before / as the door was opened.

My thoughts - Might not be one single thing but a combination (or might be one one thing) so I am now looking at things in the round rather than lasered down to plug colours only (and I agree with you can have two sets of two colours of plugs from a single carb). I would have a look at the Triumph forums that use a similar engine for some clues perhaps to your issue(s). Starting on three suggests that's an issue too, are you sure it's three, suggest HT side from cap to plug, or is it two getting too much or too little fuel as per plugs. Electronic igniter heads can go off and dissy caps being crap is not uncommon from the cheaper makers / suppliers (and their rotor arms). Also electronic dissy top leaves usually very worn and never very long lasting mechanical dissy bottom (well British ones anyway) and rebuilt last a couple years of use before wobbling out again but perfectly useable for a couple of decades perhaps. Bosch rotor arm have a 5 whatsit resistor in them that can start to break down before it fails that might also hinder starts and setting up and running, if the rotor arm is still in good condition you can sweat out the resistor and remove it and bridge the gap. If you have what is called a red rotor arm from one of the cheaper suppliers you get what you pay for but even Bosch and Beru can go. Sparks plugs are genuine and not counterfeit or the very cheap ones from the cheap suppliers of cheap ignitor heads and ignition kits and cheap HT leads. The shut off test previously described is very good if your able to do it and you can get and handle what will be hot plugs (easier on a X-flow than when the exhaust manifold is within skin blistering error area). Vacuum hose is best to be marked vacuum hose or thicker wall not flimsy thin walled old rubber. Thinking of which what colour is anything coming out of the exhaust tail pipe after full engine warm up at idle? Care must be taken with where any hoses off the engine come and go and blanking off. You put your engine was same as the Wikki photo but then that there was a variation, are you able to see a period photo of your exact engine set up to your model and year in case there are other variations, owners alter things over decades so unless you have a concours correct car exactly the same model and year it is difficult to know which is correct (from factory at least). I would be going back to just after setting valve clearances and rechecking everything, if you know someone with the same parts, and they are fully working well, you could try swapping over your parts to their car to test them and their parts on your car. Just because something has been rebuilt doesn't always mean it has been done well or mistakes not made or faulty parts fitted, just because a part is new doesn't mean it cannot be faulty, or even the correct part sometimes. I had 30+ years of buying and fitting ****-poor "classic" car parts, generally period New Old Stock parts (if still available) or working or serviceable genuine old parts are often much better than new made parts. (well for UK anyway) . A different person looking at or working on the car can sometimes spot the obvious you have overlooked or previously checked or not bothered to check as "it won't / can't be that". Wow, that was a lot, enough for now. 😄

A reasonable quality old analogue meter could be better than a new cheaper digital but it does depend on a number of variable. To get an idea of how accurate it is you could if you have them available test against a new battery or batteries 9v, 6v, 3v, 1.5v, two three or four 1.5v pushed together in series and look up what the actual readings should be then do repeats of the tests to see if the needle varies its position. VW would have 12v at 30% of charge so yes very low but as you say you don't know the reliability of the test equipment. Even if the battery was showing a 12.3 or 12.4v on a reliable meter personally I'd still fully charge the battery, also some chargers give a voltage reading so you can compare that against a reading you take at the same time with the analogue multimeter and you can see how the two compare. Find having fully charged the battery then you want to know the battery holds that charge reasonably, so reading a few days later, if you wanted you could put load on to the battery too to se how much it drops and recovers. Alternator charging can vary with the computer program doing its stuff, but as you say the alter alternator is at least doing something, easier to test the battery with a battery tester. What many forget is the battery also doesn't like hot weather so weaknesses can be from then accumulate and then show up more come the cold weather and additional heavier use of the battery. With a more modern VW start/stop car, even a 2016 and especially a 2019 (and newer) I'd charge it just after the very hot weather of summer ready for autumn and going into winter and again during the Xmas/New Year break. Some suggest charging at change over to and from winter tyres but that might not be enough, prevention is better than cure. Your past month's and A1 use shouldn't have bothered the battery unless it was already low or gone too low too often previously but some would say 4 years out of the battery is good (not me). For the vast condensation on the windscreen we use two Pingi bag dehumidifiers, a moist synthetic chamois, sun visors turned to reflect air back to windscreen rather than letting it go to the roof - and waiting - but I think I've discovered the worst thing to do is put the blower on to the windscreen as this seems to dump the damp air from the heater box and venting straight on to the screen in a self-defeating act of the demisting. But I don't drive my wife's car often enough to confirm this or find out how long to wait before putting the demisting on to the windscreen. If I'm not with my wife I lower both front windows as until last year my "daily" car was from 1973 so I'm used to scrapping all windows before starting the car, chamois the inside of windows, lowering the front (and only) windows, not bothering with the heater until it warms up a bit, pulling the choke, start the car, adjust the choke and drive off. Chamois windscreen as required. So the plastics and all the glass causing misting of the Fabia cabin pees me off (I still clear all the windows before I get in the car). 😄 Back to your car, if the EPC light stays off with more power in the battery then you might be lucky and that was part of illuminating, happy days. You will find out if it comes on again before the battery gets low again. Personally I like to have all error codes cleared only as like with a full battery you know your starting point is good but as I've lost access to my neighbour's scan tool and I can't I don't worry about it. Again let us know your readings after fully recharged and a next day and a number of days after that. If you use the same multimeter hopefully it'll be consistent with it's inaccuracy so give relative consistent comparative readings. A mate wanted to check his new bit less cheap digital multimeter against his other two cheap digital ones and the reasonably priced one he bought me as a present, all four gave different readings with his latest purchase being the furthest away from the reading my one gave. Good luck, imagine if all car repairs and maintenance was as clean hands and as easy as plugging a charger maintainer and walking away. 🙂

Could be so many things a scan tool is handy to help with diagnosis but you still need to diagnose the information the scan tool gives as it can't always point you at the exact cause but more in the right direction or to test items to rule them in or out, for example a sensor could be a massager rather than the culprit. You can only ask if the Cranwell person is able to help you worst that can happen us they're unable to you've lost nothing by asking. If the car is in the garage for a week then a perfect time to put it on a long slow charge with an appropriate charger maintainer, don't go for a quicker and higher charger if you have the choice, Follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual (and charger's manual) for correct charging. You can then check the battery at the battery posts the day after the charging has fully finish to get a better idea of the battery's state of charge, then check again a couple or more days after that to see if there's a significant drop. The reading obviously want to be done the same for consistent results and depending on when you take them any part volts the car's computers and other items might still be using at rest. As a belt and braces if you want after full charging you could start the car put the headlights and aircon on then turn the steering wheels full lock both ways and this should let the computer know the battery is now able to cope, or go out for a short drive. You've really need to flog a battery close to death before the car wont start which is part of the problem of owners really running the car batteries down too far too often. If you are really (really) lucky perhaps even the EPC warning might not return but you'll have to see on that. At four years old there are additional bits of servicing above just an engine oil & filter and a "free health check" that even Dealerships do on the car, if they haven't been done that might (or might not) help to contribute to warnings and/or a lack of use of the car. Good luck let us know how you are getting along with it or the ends results.

Personally if I didn't have access to a scan tool that is appropriate to a VW brand vehicle I would take the very easy and clean hands approach of using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer and fully charging the battery. Others may have other ideas and you can choose to follow whatever advice you please. Going up the motorway should sort things with battery anyway but if your outgoings are a lot not more than your income then they may not make up for past over use or if for some reason the alternator or whatever else is faulty. A battery that is too low can throw up all sorts of unexpected warnings and issues. Whatever is the cause of the issue, especially electrical, and the computers and their programs run on electric (5v) having and knowing the battery is fully charged is a good stating point. Alternatively you could see if there's anyone near to you on the VCDS list able to help you. -Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Or check to see if there are any Recalls or updates for your car. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

Even if the oils are similar at certain points of measure it doesn't mean they are the same let alone near identical but that doesn't matter and you would have to ask the manufacturer or blender about the differences - but both could be appropriate and fine for your car. Bear in mind the commercial reasons for changing titles and make up of oils covered before. It's like tyres the latest version maybe not as good or appropriate to some (or all) as the previous version(s) or it might it might be better. I've bought and used oils that are not current to the oil manufacturer or blender's website or marketing and sales, much of it is to do with fashion and marketing and sales rather than technical advances or improvements. That covers all good synthetic oils at whatever multigrade.

If you stick with the smallest wheel size Skoda and their customers' fashion will allow on the model certainly not and even if you perhaps go up one size to get more overwide and lower ratio tyres - but if you're used to steel wheels of nearer a less fashionable size why would you. If you go up to the largest and least most fragile style of alloy you can get on the model and worry about its appearance or severely damaging it down a pothole or up a kerb then you might consider an insurance - but again if you're used to steel wheels of nearer a less fashionable size why would you.

So you knew where the power curves and figures were on those two occasions from the two particular rolling road(s) as they and your car were at that those particular times to give you some idea unless you have changed things on the car since to make a significant difference you will have a reasonable idea allowing for age, wear and tear since. Sorry I missed this bit in your post. You will I'm sure be happier with this oil and certainly through winter and perhaps even summer but I'm sure we will hear reports back. Just for the pre-established sake of looking at the numbers - Eneos Premium 10W-40 Synthetic Kinematic viscosity (40°C) - 99.6 mm2 /s Kinematic viscosity (100°C) - 14.7 mm2 /s Viscosity index - 154 (API SL/CF, VW 500.00/505.00) - "Note: The above typical properties may be changed without notice. (February 2006)" - https://oilgroupbg.com/pdf/eneos/eneos-premium-10w40.pdf I could not find Premium as a current oil on Eneos Europe's website for a more up to date spec sheet but this was the result of the oil selection search for as near as I could get with their system for your car, note the alternatives, should warm you up on a cold day, 😁 - https://jx-nippon-uk.ewp.earlweb.net/equipment/felicia_estate_ii_1_3_50kw_FawEcWamX

I have a positive for the Total Quartz 15w-50 m i n e r a l you no longer have the 3 minute plus at higher revs. 😁 I decided to replace the trowel with a shovel and put my happy hat on. 😁

@D.FYLAKTOS the Total Quartz 15w-50 m i n e r a l oil doesn't suit you and perhaps your car - perhaps another 15w-50 mineral or better still good synthetic might suit you and you car (or perhaps not) it doesn't matter as you will never try another another 15w. Sorry I didn't make myself clear with not believing something until you see it with your own eyes that was not about the 15W-50 m i n e r a l but that if the most suitable oil for you was suggested at the very start you might try it and still find, to you, a compromise so you would still go on the journey you have taken and then forget that the first one was possibly the best as you (and possibly your car with some) may have disliked some effect of every oil you tried. Your car is 23 years old and has been modified so unless you put it on a rolling road you won't know the exact figures and peak power and torque points or level of curves but you have driven it enough to have a reasonable idea of how it performs in the way you drive it. Now you have totally dismissed the Total Quartz 15w-50 m i n e r a l and 15w I would suggest as I probably included a while back (but perhaps I didn't) try a good quality 10w-50 s y n t h e t i c. This is only what I think will suit you and the car, others may think differently. I hope I have laboured the point enough (or as we over here might say "laid it on with a trowel") of a good quality synthetic for you.

My thoughts on the £108 as I live in England and once took a car to Birmingham for repair. Proper MAP sensor looks to be about £35 (if I saw the correct one, could be more, could be less), then there is the labour (and overhead and running costs) diagnosis and find fault, replace part, other checks and tests for battery. Better value to have someone trustworthy and reliable and do the job well and proper (and at short notice) than someone on the cheap that usually turns out later to be expensive to sort or put right. It would cost more in labour to clean and repair the loose pins and then perhaps find it still plays up after fitting or worse still after mikefelicia This is the UK not elsewhere, land and houses are usually very much overvalued so a good percentage of income is used on them and most people pay their taxes including business (some very reluctantly) to keep the society running despite its present state. Marshall Skoda Dealership is a labour rate of £95 per hour. - https://www.marshall.co.uk/skoda/service/fixed-priced-servicing