nta16

Hi, welcome. I would start with the figure given in the Owner's Manual for Australia, which I presume is 32psi and if I didn't find that good in use go up to the Pirelli 35psi IF the Pirelli figure relates to Australia. I know some Australians run their tyres at high and much higher pressure than over here or Europe but I don't know if that a good idea as I've never seen a photo of how they wear. You may also get more information by asking on the 'Skoda Karoq' forum as it looks pretty lively. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/364-skoda-karoq/ Or using the search facility on this site (or through Google that will probably bring you back to this site). HTH.

Good point, all databases have errors and omissions and even if suppliers or manufacturers are told about errors on their databases or websites it can take them a very long time to correct them, often not until a major change/update of catalogue or website, if they bother at all.

Plenty of my neighbours have and are in their 90s, and still at home, one had repeated cards from royalty, a couple of my very near neighbours have just left their 80s. My old next-door neighbour was still driving his car at 95 and he only learnt to drive a car at 50, motorbikes and motorbikes and sidecars before that. Mind, he wasn't the best car driver at 73 years old when we first moved in. 😃

If I was uncertain I'd check with the supplier or better still Eibach as I've known suppliers completely balls-up and deny it (and not update their website errors).

As long as you are not relying on it in a court of law to save your life. 🙂 I am not sure how much it tells you for your concerns here unless you mean the chap has the machine and measuring instruments and knows how to use them. I did note his text included comparing like for like oils. 😉 BTW Motul (UK & Ireland) sent me an email asking for car details at 17:11 today, I will give them and let you know their response.

If disconnecting the battery has caused a reset then once the computer 'learns' again it could be better idle than before. If all the electricery is discharged then it's like "turn' the cump'ta off 'n'on agen" I'd reboot computers clear across the road. 😁

Good looking apparatus but again the tests are not testing like for like oils, same make but different varieties, the colours even vary.

Auto-electrician preferably with a scan tool that covers the complex VW computer programs. It depends on when the car battery was measured at good charge but even if it's old but provided you have not used/abused it too much too often for too long an appropriate battery charger (maintainer) could give it more life and longer life. The cold weather (and hot weather) isn't ideal for the battery but -2 isn't extreme, lack of warnings doesn't necessarily mean the battery isn't low and doesn't need charging but if you have taken a reading at an appropriate time and it shows good charge fair enough. But a low battery wouldn't cause the problem you have, as you put the issue has drained the battery. If your car is start/stop unless it's passed that point a low battery gives the warning the battery is too low to operate that system, if you ignore this and continue draining the battery then all sorts of other warnings might light up but the engine still starts. Remote keyfob also isn't so good when cold or hot, it going from a warm home to outside (or inside the car) when its very cold can lower its performance and you probably notice sooner and more if you have KESSY. But again a low battery wouldn't cause the problem you have. Posting in the appropriate forum with more information about your car may bring replies with experiences and knowledge and perhaps an answer. A forum member with an appropriate scan tool may be able to give a scan report or point to an area that might be the cause. Good luck. it'd be good if you reported back the final result/solution as this might help others.

Hi welcome. Could be a few things and possibly more than one issue, have you only noticed this today or before, is it wet /damp where you are. It won't be the car battery or remote keyfob. You may need the help of someone with a VW appropriate scan tool and/or auto electrician. You would possibly get more and better answers in the forum for a Fabia Mk2 or Mk3 depending on which yours is. Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014) Discussion for the Mk2 Skoda Fabia from 2007-2014. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii-2007-2014/ Skoda Fabia Mk III (2014-2021) Discussion for the new Mk 3 Skoda Fabia from 2014/5-2021 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/298-skoda-fabia-mk-iii-2014-2021/

The 5w40 vs 15w-40 diesel oil at -25c video makes a rough point but is a bit too over simplified and comparing a 5w-40 synthetic to a 15w-40 "regular" so certainly not the same model of oil even if both are the same manufacturer or blender. I have not read the 264 remarks (is that longer than the threads here 😁 ) so I make the assumptions (always foolish) that both oils are unused and new(-ish), if they are quite/very old then there is no mention of giving the cans a shake before letting the oils get that cold and/or dispensing them into the plastic bottles. There are a few other videos of comparing pour rates of named oils as comparisons. -25c would be near record lowest temperate over here though Google shows "Scotland recorded -27.2°C, the UK's coldest ever temperature, in 1895, 1982 and 1995" and locally to me "Lowest recorded in Northampton (since 1880) -18.3C on 8 February 1895" and "Lowest recorded at Pitsford Hall (since 1998) -13.0C on 11 February 2012".

Below is just one example of the wheel alignment tool I mention in my last post to save your back, plenty around to chose from. I suggest buying two of them, or even four if swapping front wheels to rear.

Yes I thought you would like the SG part but as with all it is a case of "swings and roundabouts" with a good suitable oil, what you gain on the swings you loose on the roundabouts, it is a 15w, and by the numbers a "thicker" one at that, whereas you have been using a "thinner" oil with the Shell. I am reasonably sure (never certain) that I was using a mineral 20w50 oil when the car had been sitting unused for a god number of days in winter when it was very cold most days and (minus) -10c the day I needed to start it, it started fine, about second or third turn of the motor, only one turn of the key, but it was it sluggish and made me think of forgetting the "classic" engine oils and going back to the then available "modern" Mobil 1 15w-50. I can't remember ever having the situation in the following winters but I'm not sure we had -10c when I had not used the car for a number of days. I tried to avoid using the car the few times we had standing snow only because I got fed up of being behind wider tracked RWD Mercs and BMW (non-) drivers who either got stuck or spun the rear wheels to have weaving tracks into the kerbstones. For many years now people here panic if we get lying snow and have forgotten or never knew have to drive in snow. Panic in Cumbria (north England) yesterday because it snowed (7 inches) it always snows.

(Bearing in mind I didn't get a reply to my email to Mutol so don't feel included to particularly favour them.) MOTUL 4100 POWER 15W-50 Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) - 19.8 Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) - 154.7 Viscosity Index (ASTM D2270) -148 API - SL - Meets 2001-2004 requirements of Automotive manufacturers Approval - VW 501 01 "All driving conditions: City, Road, Highway" https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/4100_POWER_15W-50_en_FR_motul_14600_20220504.pdf https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/api-service-classifications/363 Again figures only. As I put before you have a wide choice (and I would not worry about VW spec but I am not you) and numbers are numbers. You could go on for a very long time researching and trying oils at one change a year or every 5-7,000km going trough different multigrades, makes and models of oils. You are just as able as me to get the information on figures and only you can decide what oil(s) you want to try and I will wait for your choice and reported results of use. If you are worried about the 5w then as your weather appears to be 21c (Google for Greece, generally) then change the oil as soon as possible. Minus 1.6c here at the moment (Apparent Temperature -4.1 °C) and it certainly feels like it.

Below is just one example of the wheel alignment tool I mention in my last post to save your back, plenty around to chose from. I suggest buying two of them, or even four if swapping front wheels to rear.

I have used (UK?) Mobil 1 15w-50 Motorsport for a number of years in a few cars built in the 1970s (with engines designed in the 1950s) and in newer or new cars built in the 1990s (with engine designed in 1950s) and had no problems with it, a good oil but I could have got better if I had wanted, on engines with metal rocker covers I could hear the "tappets" more but it never worried me. Not been able to get it new in UK for a number of years and old stock was very difficult to find a number of years back too. Personally as I put I would not worry about VW numbers for your VW made Skoda engine and take Viscosity Index as a guide only. "The viscosity index (VI) is an arbitrary, unitless measure of a fluid’s viscosity change relative to a temperature change." - https://www.tribonet.org/wiki/viscosity-index/ Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (synthetic) (*GB) Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. – 12.8 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt. – 75.7 Viscosity Index – 170 (*GB) - https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-GB/a779a5f5-2cc7-44ab-b772-6e9fc36d99b0.pdf Repsol 5W-50 Master Racing (synthetic) Viscosity at 100 ºC cSt – 17.5 Viscosity at 40 ºC cSt – 116 Viscosity index - 169 https://lubricants.repsol.com/content/dam/repsol-corporate/en_gb/productos-y-servicios/lubricantes-documentos/MASTER_RACING_5W-50_EN.pdf Mobil 1 15w-50 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C – 18 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C – 125 Viscosity Index (ASTM D2270) – 160 https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-15w-50 So - if you just go by the numbers Mobil 1 15w-50 would be your winner, so why not give second place Repsol 5W-50 Master Racing another try as you didn't push it too hard and don't remember anything about noise last use. It's a 5w for your winter use and 50 for your summer city traffic and hard mountain driving and claims to be designed "for powerful vehicles used daily in any environment and circumstances".

OK, thanks. What I meant was which Shell(?) model of oil is the current 5w-40 and which Motul(?) model of 10w-40 were you using just before the current (5w-40) oil. BTW I still have not received a reply to my email to Motul UK from a week or so back (Millers replied very quickly and asked me more questions to try to pin things down).

@m18rusif changing wheels at home (unless you have a lift ) because VW use silly bolts instead of wheel studs for the sake of your back I suggest you buy and use one, or better still two, wheel alignment tool, or two or four if swapping front wheels to rear. Below is just an example, plenty around to chose from, I've no idea of the quality of finish of this example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223480382915

Fabia III owners handbook link This is the current (1/12/23) link to the 'Owner's Manual' (driver's handbook not workshop manual ) you can select the model and part of year or VIN. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Is the current 5w-40 the same make and model of oil as the previous 10w-40 otherwise it's not a direct (real world) comparison of 5w to 10w plus with smaller oil blenders it's sometimes suggested that the absolute consistency of product make up. So what make and model of 5w-40 oil are you currently using and what make and model of 10w-40 are you comparing against? The car manufactures, as a generalisation, go for "thinner" as good for fuel economy too.

Well at least you've tried the easy first step, nothing lost with correct lubrication should do no harm but good. So now as you can open the boot from the inside it suggests it's the switch or wiring or further back so a multimeter and/or a VW compliant scan tool. Here's list of VCDS (and other) owners that might be able to offer help if required. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

As previous poster has put but I'd use GT85 (£3.50 from Halfords (web) at the moment for 400ml can) as this also has lots of others uses on the car, home, shed, pushbikes and it's PTFE and not silicone (for those that worry about the paint). Unfortunately it's no longer a British company but part of a large invasive American corporation but that's the UK now. - https://gt85.co.uk/ (no I'm not on commission 😄)

The UK fashion for decades has been to over wheel and tyre new cars for more appeal, mine are bigger than yours appeal too, with the standard sizes it's a bit like saying 4" heels, rather than 6", heels for walking in. Only example numbers now as I've no idea of tyre availability and price at these sizes, or what you can fit to your particular car, plus 70 is low profile to me, if you had 205/50 r17 you'd have another 1/2" sidewall to cushion against the potholes and with the correct tyre just as much grip and handling if that's a concern for tear-arsing about. 205/55 r16 would give nearly an inch more sidewall.

Well, on this occasion at least, and all previous occasions that I know of and can remember, the car did not lock itself with the key left in the ignition and doors shut but not locked. I had a quick look at the 'Car' menu (29.1 for those that follow mpg) not much in it for locking doors and I couldn't think how to get to anything about SAFELOCK. It's similar to checking the spare wheel tyre so that if/when you want/need to use it it's not under-inflated or flat and if you sell the car the next owner can have two sets of keys instead of the often (? used to be) only one, plus perhaps a fully inflated spare wheel. 😊 Sorry your issue to me, is as Toyah put it, it's a mystery.

Just thought of something (drip memory, or memory of a drip) if it happens again note how the red light in the driver's door is acting as it might (or might not) give info. Wet weather can sometimes highlight wiring issues but personally I never rule out computer brain-farts especially with the over-complex VW programs (the amber triangle of doom no longer frightens my wife with its appearance). Personally I recommend alternating, with whatever period you prefer, the use of the two sets of keys and fob to give the blades, batteries (and locks) more even wear plus it also means you know where to find the "spare" and that it works. Another quick thought, are you with any sort of diet or full fat KESSY (for a knave)? I'll unlock my wife's car, turn the ignition on for a short while then turn it off and exit the car shutting the door but leaving the keyblade in the ignition for say 15 minutes and see if it locks itself for you and report back here, of course our settings my be different to yours and ours isn't KESSY in any way. ETA. I will of course stand guard over the car so there's no possibility of anyone helping themselves to anything in the car or driving it away.

Let us know how you get on and if you want or need to go further, that's if no one else comes up with the reason or solution.