nta16

What is Floated? What usage do you get out of them before you need or want to change them ? Toyo UK HQ is in Northamptonshire (county) (or was) and of course EBC is a family owned business founded and HQ in Northampton (town of) (or was) so I have had a few Toyo tyres in the past, never Proxes, but like all others their products changed. I have never used EBC products though a mate does.

So at what age, use, mileage (kilometerage) did the Konis first need/best to be rebuilt (but was not done) ? So 7,000 miles and 2 and a half years, a bit too early perhaps to say what might be destroyed over time but have you noticed anything - excessive/early wear, noise, vibrations, any items, components parts or systems not working as well as they should or did before, or anything else (other than the little camber recovery it had being lost/destroyed) since fitting the Apex lowering springs ? I will give a diplomatic "no comment" on such things as that. OFF-TOPIC WARNING I'm trying to think, I might have been a passenger in a BMW M or 3 or 5 on a track as a passenger, and certainly a modern 5 on UK road as a passenger, personally I didn't find them fun, the modern M5 seemed to me to have a cramped interior (and I'm used to British "classics" and modern (and modern Japanese} small sportscars interiors). I think I've only driven a very few BMWs not Ms and a (Z4) Alpina Roadster. The stereo fitted to a, new-ish, 635 csi impressed back in the day and it was a very reasonable car to be a (front seat) passenger in especially with my mate driving it as it was his boss's car that he had to drive him around for work and my mate was allowed to take it home and use, no petrol or servicing and maintenance to pay for, what I call a perfect car!

I thought it might be to do with the DSG but couldn't remember details as I avoid such things as I have, thankfully to me, no experience or need of them but rit did ask about using neutral (is that possible or do the computers do a lock out or alarm of that).

Solid disc better than drilled! Whatever next!!?!! 😁 Subject to overall braking balanced front and rear, (even) better quality and grip tyres, and accept perhaps shorter life from them but at about an average of 4,000 per year you should see a good few years use and enjoyment out of them.

Thanks. In those images it just looks silver to my eyes, on my monitor. 😄 As the Octavia III forum seems a lot busier you may get more and quicker replies there to your question but as it's a general subject it applies here or elsewhere too (and I've clicked or posted in other forums by mistake, a few times, sometimes replying to the wrong posts too). Each to their own but personally, with a big, heavy modern car with oversized wheels and tyres, all the padding and electric motors (as they all are) I'd not get too over concerned about fuel saving to an nth degree, particularly when the car only normally has one or two people occupying it in use and/or going at or just below whatever speed limit at the time and/or using all kinds of electric gadgets available. If you want to you can add your location, the TDi engine size and code, body style, DSG (type/number of gears?), year to your sidebar thingy so some can see that info at each post you make, as example only mine below.

21 years and 51,000 miles of city and spirited mountain roads use for the Koni dampers before they needed a rebuild ? I'm not trying to catch you out just let's pin this down once and for all. Your car is 23 years old, you put 21 years on the Koni dampers before rebuild, am I correct with this ? (My wife's 2015 VWSkoda Fabia Mk3 needed its factory fitted dampers replaced at only 6 years old and 41,000 miles, really annoyed me.) You also put - So how long, and mileage, have the Apex lowering springs been fitted ? I am trying to work out, other than the little camber recovery it had, what has been destroyed by your choice of lower Apex springs, what things have you had premature failure or replacement of, what has happened to the car overall, what has been spoilt or ruined, does it sound like a stripped out rally car on gravel or just a lot less pleasant, safe or reasonable to drive or be on the road, do they cause other parts and components to be replaced like they are going out of fashion ?

I'm not sure which car and year of car you are referring to* but I'd have thought generally if the car is out of gear you and the car's computers and their programs have less control over the vehicle and some of vehicle's systems - and a lot less importantly you're probably not saving any fuel, and I'm not sure how your insurance company would feel about it if you were involved in an accident at this time. I'm sure someone a lot more fluent than me can give you more details about the engine, wheels and car's systems and computer systems when not in ECO mode going downhill. * note, not that it really matters, your side thingy (no idea what it's called) shows "octavia III - cappuccino beige (I like it anyway)" and this is the Fabia Mk3 forum. I'd be interested to see what colour cappuccino beige is, I've had a Suzuki Cappuccino, fabulous type, size and weight of car for fuel saving if wanted, but never a beige car and wonder if it's near a 70s beige car colour.

I have no idea with this engine but on my wife's car, despite some believing otherwise, you are supposed to pressure refill the coolant after a bigger drain but for this and other fluids proper road testing and use over a period of days gets the levels back which means perhaps a few small top ups as IulianE has already put.

No I don't know either, just what I saw someone put, I think they meant it might make the dye less easy to see but it was an old thread so I didn't ask - perhaps you will be able to tell us when you try. Good luck.

Some ay it shows up less with the already fluorescent coolant that VW uses, I have no idea about this, but if you have the dye, torch and glasses I would imagine it might still show up well enough. You could also pressure test to highlight things more. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. I think the blanking plates for the fog lights just unclip, always easier said than done on plastics 6 years old. I would try with a plastic tool and use of a good lubricant like GT85. Found this, I've not read the following guide and at the start it just has to remove the blanking plates but does have a photo to give you some idea of some of the clips. - FABIA NJ - FOG LIGHT RETROFIT GUIDE - HTH.

Hi welcome. I will ask if a Moderator can move your post (thread) to the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum as your questions may be model/engine specific plus I think you would get more response there Or you could do a forum 'Search' for your subject within the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ Hope that helps.

@D.FYLAKTOS how long were the dampers fitted and used on the car before they needed a "rebuild"?

Where Is the servo, could it not be repaired rather than replaced? I can't but imagine it behind the rear seats with the battery

That doesn't sound right, are you sure the hissing is from the brakes, is the brake fluid level going down and if so do you know where all the brake fluid is exiting the system. Usual bleed points are at each wheel. Have a look at the appropriate parts drawing. - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/sk+105+20+30+35+36+garde/sko/1983-106/6/ ETA: It has been over 30 years since I had an Estelle 2 and the cars were under warranty and Dealership serviced so I don't remember the braking system.

Yes a right mess. Have you got a leak/water ingress. I prefer to use Contralube 770 a small sachet will last ages, I apply with a very small artist brush (£1 packet of 10). - https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/contralube-770-the-terminal-connector

RAC warns UK drivers about post-Christmas flat batteries - RAC reports that they deal with more flat batteries on the first working day of each year than on any other day. Of the 12,000 breakdowns they attend on 2nd Jan 28% were for flat batteries. "Battery issues are the number-one reason for calling out RAC patrols all year round, but the breakdown and driving services company expects to attend a record 12,000 breakdowns on Tuesday 2 January 2024. Based on data from previous years, it estimates that three-in-10 (28%) of these will be due to flat batteries." - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/motoring-news/avoid-a-flat-start-to-2024-rac-warns-drivers-to-check-their-car-batteries/ Among other things they suggest using the car regularly instead of just leaving it idle - I suggest taking advantage of the car not needing to be used and carry out a preventative low (amps) long and slow charge of the battery using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, it's extremely easy and clean hands work. Some other tips: Park in a garage where possible Make sure everything electrical is turned off when you park up Check the battery connections are tight (and free from any crud) Don't let the battery get too low, just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough the charge can still be too low https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it/

You might want to add a dab of something to keep the water out an/or help against crud formation on the connector and/or metal pins and sockets.

Sorry my last comments were for skomaz, by "passenger behind the steering wheel active version" I meant the active cruise control, or whatever it is called, that keeps your car a certain distance behind the car in front of you and adjust the speed of your car as required to maintain this. I had no idea that there is/was a model called Active if that's what you meant. I forgot to mention in my previous post the possibility of any outstanding updates to the computer programs or outstanding Recalls for anything that VWSkoda are actually admitting to. Recalls - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Again I am out of ideas.

We have tracks but why would you need or want to with a road car, if the car suspension settings are that badly out you also need a tow car and trailer to get it to the track. Just a matter of being sensible make minor adjustment by road use and sensible drives and building up as is sensible. This is car drivers stuff not crazy motorbikers (or organ-donors as they're sometimes referred to) stuff. OFF-TOPIC WARNING: - When I was young I used to got to hardcore bikers (black leather jackets, cut-off with studs and oil covered jeans) pubs and events as I liked the music, but I have never had a motorbike in my life particularly after having a pillion ride on one of my biker mate's bike. I vowed if I ever got on the back of bike again I would have my hands not on the back of the seat but around the testicles of the bloke up front to control his ego. BTW - heavy metal was Black Sabbeth but I don't remember it being called that, it was known as Heavy (or 'eavy as most of us commoners don't pronounce the h at the start of words) and despite "heavy metal thunder" being in the lyrics of Steppenwolfe's Born to be wild. Deep Purple were known as hard rock and I didn't see heavy metal used until an AC/DC cover on a, released later, 7" vinyl single. At the time it came out Meatloaf's Bat out of Hell LP, all the tracks, was on all the time at the biker's pub I went to, strange as it's all theatrical rather than heavy.

On blowing your photo up it looks the connector might be held together by a very small torx screw but there are also slots under the connector pins that might (or might not) be some sort of release or removal of the pins or sockets - but I don't know and all would be too small for my eyes in real life. Bear in mind removing the connector block will have a live pin/wire terminal when the lights are on and usual precautions with car electrics. You might be able to clean and reuse part or all of the connector and get new pins, or get a new connector the same/similar-enough, or If you're not too worried about originality and there the rom to do so you might be able to change to another type of connector @Breezy_Pete and others would be best for advice on this. For me it'd be interesting to know what caused this as my wife's car is a 2015 and has already annoyed me too many times with it's German engineering quality but this might not originate from a manufacturer's fault perhaps. Good luck.

And what works well on a track often doesn't on the roads, that applies to this and other modifications and tuning why is you shouldn't expect too much from a road car when it's on a track.

Sports, sporty, sporting are only terms, words, marketing, any car can be a sports version. Sports cars that actually are used in sports need not be that sports, sporty, sporting, some manufacturers, particularly the German ones, are happy for their road vehicles to be thought of as sports, sporty, sporting to help with sales and prestige. My qualifications are that I have owned and driven cars commonly know as "sports" and even track use cars, not German marque ones but I know quite a few owners of such with and without the higher prestige tuners badges on them and I owned three (road only) Skoda Estelle 2 when they were doing well in the motorsport of Rallying. And of course the previously mentioned Fiat Cinquecento Sporting, it's even in the name. 😄

Sorry you posted whilst I was typing, see my previous post with quote that might( ?) cover/answer your question. I think, but can't remember or don't know as I avoid such stuff, cc only starts at a speed above 31kph but I've no idea of the passenger behind the steering wheel active version. Apologies if I'm wrong with any or all of this.

To summarise (repeat) for others as I'm out of ideas (as usual). 2019, Fabia Mk3 1.0 TSI, 90, 5 speed, 160,000 km 100,000 miles, sales rep company car previously, serviced as such (every 15,000 km).