nta16

Right, in that case it might be a software, mechanical or electric/computer, such is the joy of modern cars. Intermittent is the pain of course but an interrogation with a high level scan tool might help especially if any history of fault is logged, otherwise it needs to be plugged in at time of fault but you shouldn't leave anything plugged into the diagnostics port for more than perhaps road tests. I'll report your post to ask for the thread to be moved to the Fabia Mk3 section as this is the Mk2 section. You can add Monte Carlo 2019 and other stuff to your nameplate if you want.

Depends on whether you've been to the local indie VW/Skoda already and have been satisfied with their work and/or you want to go to the indie VW/Skoda in the future with other work. £15 isn't a lot to build a relationship and help out local company that might not be there in the future for the losses of £15 less for simple works. Swings and roundabouts, £15 more on one job a bucket load of hassle less on other jobs. Some people at Kwikfit could be good or very good and some people and local indie VW/Skoda not so good or stereotypical motor trade treat customer like something they trod in. I'm sure you have enough experience to know even the very best let alone the far-from-best can make ****-ups on even the simplest of jobs, perhaps disturb or break something else whilst doing the work, some will sort it, even own up to it, some will keep quiet and ignore it or bodge it.

Hi Raph, welcome. Is the rear passenger door actually staying open or just reporting as open? Just thinking generally, if it is staying open then check the lock and catch for anything stuck in or on them that shouldn't be there. Check child lock is fully on or off. I'd a spray of GT85 (a penetrating/releasing fluid, lubricant, OK on electric contacts, PTFE, better than WD-40 Multi-Use) to lubricate the lock and child lock on that door and work in with a series of repeated locking and unlocking and shutting and opening (might as well spray the hinges at the same time). It of course could be other, like electric/computer connection or wires which might need visual inspections cleaning or repairs or plugging in an appropriate level scan tool to help diagnosis. Is your car a Fabia Mk2 trim level 3 or a Fabia Mk3 (2015-2021), more information can help answer future questions you might have and you can include this information in your name plate, as with mine as an example. -

Perhaps they wanted to hide that there was (ETA: not) not any service history (or they hadn't yet made it up). Did you get any service history later on which went back to when the car was new?

@Moorwen you might be better starting a new thread of your own, certainly check the state of charge of the battery (a full battery is about 12.7V) and check the battery and main body earth connectors are all secure. If the car battery is in a low state of charge you might need to use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer to fully recharge the battery as just driving the car as you usually do might not be enough to fully recharge the battery. The fault might also be other, plugging in a scan tool would help to see what it shows, a battery in a low state of charge can throw up all sorts of error codes and warnings and so can bad connections or other faults. Checking the connections to the car battery and body earth are secure is quick, easy and free and if the battery state of charge is low fully charging the car battery will do no harm and may help.

@Carlston, you're shooting the messenger. If anyone doesn't want to possibly argue the toss about the insurance at the time of a claim then you need to be sure you have complied with the contract you've agreed to, if you're not sure about anything then you need to check, preferably before taking on the contract. I think whoever Loz spoke to about the insurance has it wrong, depending on his contract I think the worse is an admin fee to add the details to the contract. Different companies assess different risks differently but luckily it's very big market so if one provider doesn't do what you want you can look around for another, how much time and lifeforce you have to do this hunting might dictate what you find. Unfortunately it's always been that those that act responsibly pay for those they do not and this would be with (not meaning Loz here) some who modify their car so they don't go as well as design, or even go better so increase risk. I'd be contacting the company again and speaking to someone else or the issue could be referred internally or externally.

@Warrior193 I was to but it was a very limited photo and perhaps it shows the water after it comes out from the inside the plastic trim. Because of all the electrics and electronics on cars now the wires and connectors as so small it doesn't take much to fill them or cause resistance now. I remember decades back at a show and Jag or one of their suppliers had a display stand and hearing about the weight of the wiring then on an XJ and something (forget what) they were looking at to drastically reduce the weight of the wiring, I bet my wife's 2015 Fabia has more ( but thinner) wiring and certainly more connectors than that large luxury XJ of that time. Even the most modern cars are basically very ancient technologies, large car manufacturers have always dragged their feet on progress to keep profits and boardroom remunerations high.

Loz, I just thought (yes my thinking is that slow) if you're gonna end an existing insurance there could be costs to that, check your policy, and there might be an admin fee and you might not get the premium refund of the "unused" policy you expect, again check your policy, as it catches out many that don't know (or those with an over simplistic view on the matter).

Loz, sorry but you've had a perfect example, premium costs are lower but training and experience have been previously sacrificed. If you think you can or want to spare the lifeforce, I think you could "escalate" your case as the person or people that you dealt with don't fully understand the situation, you'd probably need to go above "the supervisor" or "manager" level to get the understanding you need and that's not the fault of the people you've been dealing with or the "supervisors" or "managers" . You've found how awkward things can be and this is just at application stage so you can imagine possibly snags at report, claim, repair and pay out stages. My wife paid about 25% above the lowest insurance quotes recently at her renewal (still slightly below the renewal premium and more cover than her previous provider) as we want an insurer that is good with dealing with claims and repairs and not just a cheap premium and policy. I learnt this three decades back, you only want cheap premiums and policy if you never claim on it, otherwise you want a good policy at a reasonable premium.

If the car varies from as factory suppled as regard wheels and tyres in theory the insurers want to know even Dealer or factory items options, even if on the car when purchased s/h. Fitting winter tyres is a different matter and your personal recent experience with the loss assessor is good, get particularly an engineer type they can sometimes be different in my personal experience, or on the other side you can get someone that accepts any information you're able to give them to save them time as they're so overworked and underpaid, might also depend on who's in what mood they're in at the time. Sorting out any insurance is rarely fun so anything that might cause a snag is best avoided as Sod's Law it crops up when least appreciated. I'm sure any sensible insure person would be pleased that Loz is fitting more sensible wheels and tyres and if contacted might even say it's fine and they didn't need contacting about it but there are so many variations and it depends on what the application and policy asks for. Some people think the contracts are as they believe they should be or have heard down the pub or on t'web rather than what's actually in the contract and generally accepted, one common example is someone has an accident or damage and reports it but doesn't claim so they think this shouldn't have any effect on next year's premium or that they don't need to report the accident or damage and as for what refund some expect from closing the policy early. I'm not the insurance police and looking for petty point scoring, quick phone call or email should sort stuff like this easily or as I suggested ask the professionals via the link I put earlier - or ignore me, I won't feel slighted. 😄

Thanks for reporting back. Blimey bit of a water running in there then, you certainly want to sort out the drains ASAP, check how many drain points there are and their locations, sorry I don't know. After cleaning to help keep water and moisture out you could use something like Contralube 770 to protect the connectors internally, a sachet lasts a long time and a tube much longer. - PDS-Contralube_770.pdf ETA: Use as required but no point putting in too much to connectors so that too much squeezes out when you put the connectors together.

True but you don't want to be arguing about what is an insignificant factor, even things written in tablets of stone are open to interpretation. If the wheels and tyres are stock to that model I can't see how it'd cause issue. Having dealt with insurance companies over decades I know some things can be or become quite fluid and that was in the days you could actually get to talk to a real person that isn't just a contract call-centre or computer program. If going through a broker it can often be easier. It should just be a matter of informing the insurer, hopefully no admin charge but that might depend on how cheap your policy is. You could get a free professional opinion and perhaps advice on this site from one or two insurers in the Insurance & Legal Issues section. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/247-insurance-legal-issues/

Loz, I'm giving a rare disagreement with a small bit of something @Carlston has put. Just a warning, different insurance companies have different approaches and acceptance on different polices and at different times, perhaps even who you get answering your enquiry. Check and whatever reply is given get it recorded and get it in writing preferably paper and ink (or ask them for the audio of your call, AFAIK they can't refuse but will probably mess up the copy of any recording, that's if they know how to get it). Make no assumptions (but I'd not think (generally) going to appropriate 16" wheels and tyres to the model will cause an issue but you never know for sure at anytime). Generally insurance companies and providers are very good but can be a right PITA to deal with (if you can now directly) when things go wrong and particularly wrong by them. I think 16" wheels and tyres are a much better idea (and look) than 18" or even 17", 19" is well beyond for me but each to their own.

I was going to look at the Owner's Manual for anything about the cruise control but if it's working now. If both the cruise control and the start/stop are working again (they might be related, my wife's Fabia doesn't have it so I don't know how it relates to battery, start/stop if at all) and you know the battery was in good state of charge and health then did you also check that the battery post connections and main earths are all clean at (inside) connections and secure, also start/stop connector on negative clamp. As suggested connections and wires could be checked, disconnecting and if required cleaning the connector, sometimes a spray of electric contact cleaner can be enough to clean things (or even just the disconnecting and reconnecting) and you can look at the wires for any scuffing or frailty. Once had the embarrassment of a mate having to call out the services as his new model at the time 18-month old V8 Land Rover Discovery wouldn't start, the" very nice man" just took the battery post clamps off and there was a tiny spec of crud that needed cleaning off and then the car fired up like a good 'un. Perhaps even disconnecting and reconnecting the battery might have been enough if the electric issues have now gone but don't bank on it straight away. Forgot to put, generally Dealers wont diagnosis error codes that have been cleared and don't show up on their scanners, the first thing is (or should be) to check that the reported issues exists, no codes, and like my wife, they won't believe what they don't see wit their own eyes. See how your car goes over the next couple of reasonable journeys and let us know. If it's not against your nature or upbringing try a couple of tankfuls of V-Power, the economy needs the revenues.

That is my point - if the Mannol Defender 10w40 semi synthetic engine oil was not the original factory fill and service engine oil for the (replacement) 1998 VW Polo 6N1 1.6 AEE engine then it is probably an improved engine oil that you were happy to change to and are happy to continue using. So you may have also been happy to try an improved oil in the gearbox - the fact that you, and others, are not happy to do this is fine, I just thought you might as I thought you had with the engine oil. Again up to you, just a suggestion from me to be ignored or taken up as you please - I can't remember seeing before that you have 1.6 AEE engine fitted (or what model or year your Felicia is) so if you wanted to you could add more details to your nameplate that appears to the left side of your posts (well it does for my device) as for example only mine gives more details.

@harry vederci sorry, you're ahead of many with the battery, it's state of charge and charging the battery with a charger, and not thinking a 20-mile journey is a long run. As has been put a generic code reader might not be too accurate but if the error codes have gone it done it's job if not too accurately. Also as put always bear in mind there can be more than one issue and/or cause(s) of issues(s). Error codes should only be taken as possible pointers in the diagnostics process, a good scan might be pointing at the cause or just blaming the messenger. A 120 miles run is a good run but not always a good blow -out (or through) run but you'd know what it was like, I've done choking runs and smooth flowing empty roads runs in Scotland and England. My wife had a 2008 GM diesel before the Fabia and the few times I drove it and very few times filled it with fuel I put V-Power diesel in and could see the evidence of the different in the rear view mirrors, I know others don't accept this for various reasons, often monetary as with my wife. Until you have a new filter to compare with it can be difficult to see how dirty an existing air filter can be, I'd also wipe out the inside of the filter box and trunking as much as sensible and possible. If any codes return as has already been put it could be wiring or connections, a higher level scan tool make give you more information about this but sometimes just using your own personal diagnostic tools of your human senses and mind can do more and better so always worth a look-see, especially whilst doing things like changing the air filter, look before and after doing the job. What year is your car, perhaps there might be something about why the the cruise control function can't be set at the moment.

Just using a smart charger overnight might not have been enough to fully recharge a battery that might have been low for a few weeks, did the charger show that the battery was full, if not even a 50 mile drive including 16 miles of motorway may not be enough to fully recharge the battery. Put the smart battery charger on for as long as possible or until it shows full. You may also need to keep an eye on the battery and give preventative rechargers with the smart charger before any warning lights or messages come on, or possibly need to replace the battery at some point sooner than expected. A 50 mile drive including 16 miles of motorway at 60-70mph may not be enough to fully clear the car out, especially if you were in top gear at that time and just cruising, consult your Owner's Manual to see if it gives any suggestions or go on the same drive but have the engine revs up a bit by using lower gear(s), you're looking to get the exhaust temperature up for long enough, and more air in, through and out of the engine. Not sure about the cruise control but I'd fully charge the battery, go on the blow-through, heat up run, then check for error codes and decide from there if I thought it was worth going to the Dealership. Personally if I had a diesel I'd check, change/clean as require, the engine air filter more often than the service schedule has it and run with something like V-Power diesel at least every fourth or more tankful.

382 in old money, contact the people in link below if you want to be sure but the link is to their canbus P21W (382) offering, I found them very good when buying LED bulbs for my "classic" (over-priced, over-valued old) car ("classics" causing the LEDs to be OK for MoTs headlights) but I've not used any LEDs on modern cars. Bear in mind VW (and other German marques) were obsessed with over-complex computer systems (helps with any hidden cheating I suppose) and I've found just using the standard (presumably factory) incandescent bulbs on my wife's 2015 Fabia that the computer programs can possibly get their knickers in a twist or be over, or under sensitive. Once it claimed a fault with a rear brake light that I was unable to prove and another time I noticed one of the DRL incandescent bulbs was darker than the other a week before the warning system threw up a display. ETA: I've just noticed one of the two 5 star reviews is from a Skoda Superb owner - "These work perfectly for my Skoda, the DRL lights now colour match the o/e HID headlamps, looking much better, and no error codes. (Previous ebay COB lights were useless, failing in a week, and heat damaging the sockets)". https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/strong-canbus-drl-daylight-running-light-white-led-1156-p21w-382

"Advance warning" of the "distance warning (dangerous distance)" - warning that you're too close to the car in front came on yesterday, the audio bit is more of a higher pitched, whistle type of bleeping(?). I admonished the driver and informed her VW had notified Interpol, it'll be another offence to be taken into consideration.

@GordoGT what about going into your local Dealership and asking for a detailed breakdown of every service and if not a Complete Record, if the two aren't the same thing. As the current owner, take in your V5C ("logbook" registration, keepers paper) for relevant VIN and perhaps proof you're the "keeper" of the car and I'd have thought they'd be happy to use up a couple of bits of paper and ink in the hope of getting you as a service customer at least. The VWSkoda digital service record seems a ridiculously run system to me, good luck, let us know how you get on.

During that time it might have helped to fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer but it is not too late, now fully recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, if you do not have the time to fully recharge in one go then fully recharge in more than one go. Then after the battery is fully recharged clear all error codes and drive the car and see what returns. Fully recharge the battery, clear all error codes and drive the car first, then if required panic after that. Water leak will obviously need sorting no matter what anyway.

That is a LOT more detailed than the Complete Record (no Report) paper printed (hard) copy my wife is given. As, until August last year, for the previous 30+ years I've been using "classic" (over-priced and over-valued old) cars as dallies I'm used to much more detailed servicing and maintenance bills and records from those doing the work and what I compile so the digital system was a very unwelcome surprise on my wife's car. (BTW apparently other marques than VW did give a physical service book). I ask my wife to get a refreshed Complete Record every time the car has work done but often it's only the Individual record I get a paper print out of. Attached images as examples. -

Explains why I couldn't find it over 238 pages, VW do seem a little 'shy' about giving some information a process of "constant improvements" I expect. 😁 I'll edit my previous post.

After seeing others have used it I used this eBay seller, very fast response. - VIN decoder that will show factory options Audi VW Seat Skoda - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243 - ETA: I was wrong, no good locking at this for DMF, thanks varooom.

Yes that is fair enough, so I take it Mannol Defender 10w40 semi-synthetic was the factory fill and/or service change oil in 1996/7 and is not a later improved choice. As I have put many times, a good oil is a good oil no matter what it is called and how it compares. Everyone should now be happy and Felicia gearbox oil change interval has been established again.