nta16

If that's not a just a quick expression do bear in mind as they say, other providers are available, and sometimes/often(?) at lower prices. As for search for information on here and other sites a good quality search engine can find you lots of information, finding what is correct and best for you are different matters. On Briskoda there are more specialist sections and forums, for the Superb Mk3, Superb Guides, Superb Projects, then non-model specific forums like this one in the General Forums section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Anyone new to a model or type of car I've always suggested reasding and refering to the car's 'Owner's Manual', even before buying the car, as it can tell you such much about the car, and it's (minimum/not enough usually) servicing and maintenance requirements. Then when you have the car reading it and refering to it can often save you time, money and hassle especially for unecessary visists to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and you will know more about your car than many long term owners. The publication isn't perfect, and VW don't put some information other car manufacturers freely give but it's usually a good place to start even for repairs. If you don't have the paper printed version you can get a free VWŠkoda downloadable version from the VWŠkoda manuals website. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models A couple more official websites that might be useful are the VWŠkoda Recall Campaigns website (well those VW admitt to anyway) https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns and the Update Portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ For modern cars (2017 is very modern to me) particularly those with stop/start and VW brands looking after the state of charge (and health) of the 12v battery is important, the VW computers are very fussy about this. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily (the battery has to be very low indeed for the engine not to start) the 12v battery state of charge could too low for the computers and they can throw up all sorts of warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and unexpected issues with the car. Loads and loads of threads and posts about this for each model. Often just driving the car isn't enough to keep the battery in a good state of charge as the VW battery system only normally charges the battery to about say 80% (to allow for the lip-service emmisions and fuel saving system). So if you prefer not to prematurely replace the expensive 12v battery(ies) and mess with 'coding' them then the occassional preventative use of an appropriate battery/charger maintainer to fully (to 100%) recharge is required, following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. The charger maintainer doesn't need to be an expensive one. The Superb can have even more electric/electronic "aids", "assists" and conveience systems and parts on it than other models, and might have(?) a second battery to cope with all. Last thing I bang on about is more general, good quality tyres in good condition (and at correect pressure), as tyres are complex components that are often overlooked and not fully considered, as they are are, vital parts of the braking, steering and suspension systems. If you've read this far, 😄, that should be enough for one read. 😄 Good luck.

The image in your post doesn't come out that large on my PC. Sorry I don't do TwatNavs now or much when they first started to be used generally decades back so you might not like my answers. For radio stuff, logos etc., unless you have poor quality sound it can sometimes be best to leave well alone, we've all experienced the 'joy' of some computer updates. **** Navs are a different matter, worse now for best routes than back in the day from what I've seen and had to put up with from modern drivers (blindly following TwatNav directions rather than checking other sources and using common sense). There will be loads and loads of threads and posts generally, for all (appropriate) models, (your 'Author's stats' has "67 Silver 2L L&K TDI DSG" but not which model) on Briskoda about what to do so you could have a search, look and/or ask. Or if @pab567 is available at the monent he will know and reply here, others will also know but certainly not me, it was too complicated for me when I wanted some sort of update for a computer in my wife's 2015 Fabia so I didn't bother and it's been fine (forget what now) but the car doesn't have a built in TwatNav, she uses Waze sometimes on her phone if I'm not in the car. Good luck. HTH.

I've just had a quick look at the grip on my wife's 2015 SE (is it "leather"?) and using a mirror it just shows the seam(?) on the underside but no pushy plastic tag thingy. This is a total guess (and it's far, far, far too hot now for my body and brain) that possibly the solid plaster gaiter part and grip moight (or might not come off together, poassibly with also the chrome push button cover. Possibly removing the slit(?) panel cover bit of plastic, of the plastic centre console, under the handbrake grip, may help with removal of these pieces (as well as with removal of the centre console) - but I don't know. Obviously when dealing with plastic, particularly aged plastic, you want to take care not to damage or break it as it probably costs an arm and a leg to replace a plastic cover like this. Yeap that's what I'd normally go with, gaiters as coverings. Way back wen the handbrake covering would have been leather moving on to vynil type plastic (rubber sometimes) and now perhaps "leather" but also the handbrake one at least ridged rather than flexible. Rubber "boots" on suspension parts were also know as gaiters, and gaiters going over people's socks and boots If I remember correctly. Of course VW (and those in Scotland for the people boots, socks things) might have other words for these things. Manufacturers' parts decscriptions can sometimes be fun particularly if different languages are involved and of course as time passes langauages and qwords change as do their common use and meanings. Yes I could be as old as I sound. 😄

The tyre pressute monitoring system I always recommend is a small amount of time and common sense about when to check, no it doesn't work in real time driving but that's where training (learning to drive rather than just to pass a one-time test), experience and common sense have to be used, fine if that's also backed up by a reliable computer system but the computer system needs to be checked and if required questioned (like all systems, especially computer ones now).

Good to know, perhaps someone improved the system from 2015 to 2022, or more accurate on bigger wheels, or the Supeeb got a better computer program than the Fabi, but I doubt it, and/or any combination or permutation, or perhaps the system on the 2015 Fabia is slower reacting to a faster deflating tyre - good to know it's was my reliable for you.

Now Derek you know full well I never recommend CTEK, your link takes me to a post that links to a CS CTEK. I did not mean you connect to the battewry positive and negative terminals but to connect to the positive teminal and the earthing puiont on the cjassis ad per the car's 'Owner's Manual', PHEVI'm sorry if I didn't make that cleart to you. I can't speak for a i20 MHEV directly but can't understand how CORRECTLY installed any unconected leads could be ANY drain what sdo ever. I've no idea if an 2021 Hyundai i20 MHEV was the right car for you, at that time, but how a 2024 Fabia Mk4 is better than a i20 non-hybris is beyond me personally - but as always each to their own. Yeap, if you didn't grease your front suspension nipple you could have issues, that was servicing maintenance not random xcomputer brain farts (and not poor quality computer p[rogramming). You may not know or forgot that until 3 years for the previous 16 years my one and only everyday car, used all year round was a 1973 MG Midget which I used to grease the front suspension every 3 months and just before an MoT. Definitely a PITA nut not as much so as dealing with my wife's Mk3 and watching out for it's computer programming and poor quality VW parts and of course Delerships and UK Škoda cons. 😉 Pedentic matching, yeap, on the spectrum , as we all all but poassibly more mildly(?). 😁 Consider becomimng a Moderator(?). 😁 Time for "tea" (diner), no tea for me.

I/ve no idea if this is correct, nearest I could find. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmTtnMXLbz8

I assume (always dangerous) what you mean as the handbrake cover is what in the olden days would have been refered as the "gaiter"(?) but then you might mean the sleeve or cover or grip, such as just one example at random. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/358012382510 Sorry how to remove it I've not got a clue but I'll have a look, the Germans car makers have different ideas to the British car makers.

😄 I was born and have lived my whole life in England yet I'm still not that great at the language and my posts are very often littered with spelling and grammatical errors. Most of my post edits are for typos, and I can take a few edits and still miss loads, and I'm getting worse.

Good piont. Perhaps connector leads could be fitted for occassional preventative battery charging. Ring is just one possible example. -

Useful video - but as you'd expect from me a few notes about that video, I would fully charge up the battery before fitting it to the car (shouldn't take too long) check the terminal clamps are clean inside he said he bought the cheapest battery he could get and it wasn't specific to the car so no wonder it wasn't the best fit to the car and that he's the type that needs a new battery after only 4-5 years I'm not sure that bottom battery locatiing clamp was that snug to the battey base, seem at and angle from being at a corner of the battery. You do get to see the unweldly VCDS programing, even for such a simple thing as 'coding' the battery and VW having kindly make things a bit more of a pain by returning to those horrible afterthough connections on top of the battery, so much for engineering design and improvementsd, luckily the Mk3 missed out on such a thing.

I used to use graphite powder in locks but even the tiny amount needed makes such a mess that I stopped, it's a bit like coppergrease a tiny bit seems to coat everywhere else. as you know GT85 is my go too for most penertrating/releasuing and longer lasting lubricamt. I spray all the garden tools I use with GT85 to clean, lubricate and protect whilst in damp sheds.

Hi, welcome. Just for your info, correct English spelling is handbrake, formerly was a typo or misspelling and I am guilty of both on far too many occassions so I'm not trying to 'live in a glass house and throw stones'.

Give it a stray of good long lasting lubricant (that's not WD-40 Multi-Use but if that's all you have it will do).

The computers will ensure that it's not as reliable as your 1963 Morris Minor. You also need to keep on top of the state of charge of the car's 12v battery, even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily (the battery has to be very low indeed for the engine not to start) the state of charge in the battery might be too low for the computers and they could throw up all sorts of unexpected warnimng lights and messages, unseen error codes and issues on the car. Loads of thread and posts on this here for all models and the never the car the greater the likily. If you know of rubber cased batteries, small generators then you miht be familar with occassion reventive battery charging with an appropriate battery charger (stroke maintainer now) well we have 'progressed' back to those times. If you want to get more than 2 ,3, 4, 5 years out of the expensive battery then you may (probably) not be able to rely on driving the car to be enough as the VW programming only allow usual alternator charging to about 70-80%. Occassionally charging the battery (low amps, slow, long time) to 100% full will extend the battery life and prevent (some) of the possible compter wobblies. Read the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. Good luck. My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, in winter, but the battery also discharges (and self-discharges more) in hot summer.

Or some are more faulty than others. Credit where credit is due, we've never had a problem with the screw on fuel cap or the flap door or its mechanism but I do clean the flap inside and out and do clean the area of the fuel tank pipe thingy (can't think what it's called, black wunderbar fantastic-plastic of course) they can get a surprsing amount of debis there as I found with the SEAT Arona loan car, I almost needed a trowel for that.

Off-topic but related If it's been stationary for a couple of weeks you might need to check the state of charge in the 12v battery, even if the headlights seem bright enough and tghe engine easily starts (the battery has to be very low indeed for the battery not to start the engine on modern cars). Best way to test is using a multimeter with the probes directly on the battery posts or if you have a battery charger maintainer that gives voltage reading you can us that as it would be a good idea to to fully (to 100%) recharge the battery using an appropriate charger maintainer reading and following the instructions for the caharger and for the car using the car's 'Owner's Manual'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Car 12v batteries like weather at sbout say 20c and IIRC self-discharge (on top of what the car drains from them with its computer systems) twice as much at 30c and twice as much again at 40c, sometghing to bear in mind if the car is statiobnary for weeks during the hottest parts of summer. It's not just in winter that car batteries arte drained with use either, things like air-con are big electric users. So even in summer the occassional preventative (low, slow) recharging of the battery, to 100%, can save time, hassle and money. Or for a stationary car fully recharge it and leave it on a trickle maintenance charge as it's stationary and car unused (but battery still being drained).

I'd not rely on a VW or BMW computer system, though it might be right most times I'd confirm with indepedent equipment, a tyre pressure gauge. This doesn't have to be expensive, being consitent is very important, use the same reliable guage all the time as one reliable guage may vary slightly in its reading to another or other reliable gauges. PSI -"Every 10°C change in temperature alters tyre pressure by 1-2 PSI." - https://www.national.co.uk/blog/hot-weather-tyre-pressure

And by the time you get a warning as the paramters are wide it could be too late and be ble*din' obvious to a switched on or even dozy driver. Don't leave the driving or car maintenance to the car's computers as they can't fully be trusted and the responsibilities are fully on the driver of the vehicle no matter how many computer "aids" and "assists" are on the vehicle.

My wife's Fabia, same tyres gained tread depth between two subsequent ticksheets and the non-existent spare tyre often had a reported tread depth. 😄

Hi, welcome. I will ask a Moderator to move your post from the 'About to buy a SKODA?' forum to the 'Skoda Superb Mk2 (2008-2015)' forum (in the 'Škoda Superb' section of the site) where you can get real world information advice from Superb Mk2 owners and others. Good luck.

Two things I'd try. Get the battery to fully using a different lower amps charger2 or 3 if possible and allow for a much, much, much longer recharge time. Disconnect, pull the fuse, always, always turn the stop/start off and see what differences these two thibgs make. Just using simplistic maths, so if you battery has never been above 80%, at least after the VW computer program dragged it to there from new, then that's where it drops from, the 80% so a 10% drop takes it to 72% where as if it had a start at 90% or 100% the 10% drops would be 81% and 90%, more margin and less wear and loss. The programing for the AGM ("Fleece" as our dear VW freinds call it, bless their cotton socks) is apparantly different to that for an EFB battery - though AGM batteries were fitted to "classic" cars at least in America many years back on car with "dumb" large heavy crude Americian alternators without issue and giving good service, they don't have as much special requirements as many make out or have been told. Think of a battery like a current bank account some can budget the in and outs well whereas others can't and run deficients, or mains power electric use in homes, some have high bills others have lower bills, generally the more various appliances you have the more likily they are used or in-standby power sucking (perhaps with the lights on and curtains open in every room all nights to show how lucky the people living there are). It's more "regeneration" from braking, not accelorating, well that's how it was at least. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

It's away of getting more revenue and profits into the Dealership and perhaps because or to avoid th time thus expense of proper diagnostics and the need for more trained personel and equipment. Once out of warranty particular the Dealerships, not just VAG ones either, go looking for chargeable work whether it's there or not. Our local Dealership if IIRC found £1, 700 of work on a"free health check" on my wife's car including a clutch change because the clutch pedal was "hard". This really conccerned my wife as we'd had a lot of bad luck with a previous gearbox conversion and subsequent clutch operation sustems including British motorsport made parts (wrong type of rubber in the new manufactured o-ring!) and only time with no issues (still reassured her the Fabia clutch didn't need changing. The very next "free health check" only a couple of months later by the same Dealership and person made none of the previous finds and the only thigs I'd changed in the meantime was the front discs and pads as they wer low (but not urgent). The Dealerships might find it harder to con the con-men at VWŠkoda so have to work harder at that and VW are happy to avoid as much as they can by starting with cheapest brush-offs. I'm afarid generally this is much of the British motor trade attiude they veiw customers as something nasty and smelly they trod i and on the soles of their shoes and boots. Not all, you can get good people in bad companies and alsobad people in good companies and certainly not all customers are good and honest. If you have the opition to use another Dealership you could research and enquire whether they might be better if you can't bounce the car back, and they will make that very difficult. Good luck, hopefully it might be something simple, or remedy on a Technical Bulletin filed away somewhere.

That's a bit off my idea of fully charged and even away from VW's (about 80%(?)) and 87% isn't 100% (depending on what and how the meaures are). TopDon, OBDEleven - what about putting multimeter probes directly on the battery terminals, after the car hasn't been used or charged for as many hours as possible, what's the voltage reading then? My Ring charger and MartinDale multimeter give the same voltage reading within a knat's whisker I go by than to give me at least intitial idea of the battery, I can be pessermistic but I find the battery tester I 've used and hear about seem very pessermistic or set for battery sellers. The 12v battery must remain one of the most oversold and premature replacement car parts. Yes of course they need, or are best replaced, at some piont but not as soon as many are. Thank gawd I bought those shares in 12v battery producers. Has you can got brake energy recuperation or more the alternator taking a break. I note you take 30 minutes and one hour 20 minutes to charge your battery yet it took 15 hours to charge my wife's (AGM) battery and it wasn't what most would call ow in charge - what amps is your charger going at?

Yet another easy default of blaming the battery and not the car (or, but not in your case driver/owner battery use/abuse and neglect). Lots of issues being blamed on scapegoat "bad" batteries or batteries low in charge without the Dealerships looking to see or asking why the batteries are low or flat. I only posted this morning, on a low battery thread, I thought it more likily many of these could be a VW computer programing error possibly and/or a part(s)/system(s)/wiring/connection(s) fault(s) rather than the scapegoat car battery. German marques have been (over) complex for many decades and the more modern any make of car the more complex the computer, electronic, electyrics, systems are. Throw in the VW DSG, cylinder shut downs, climatronic, all the "aids", "assists" and conveniences and then a 2025 car and the potentials are great for possible issues and VW don't seem that that great with some of the stuff they make or asssemble or that great with the computer software and hardware as some other manufacturers might be. I don't blame your wife, your car is unreliable and often out of the driver's control or perhaps ability to get where it's going or back home or to the Dealership under it's own reliable power. I hope it turns out to be something minor (after proper diagnostics if you can get this from the Dealership/seller) and it becomes more reliable. VWŠkodas are no longer less expensive car to buy and maintain and certainly not with some VW parts and VW parts longivity.