nta16

As whitedot has put and if you have enough hands as the light begins to move spray with shaken can of GT85 to lubricate and easy out the clips, also helps with reassembly. -https://gt85.co.uk/

32,500 miles or 7 years might be good mileage and time for a VWŠkoda to last but owners of others makes of cars would expect far, far, far, longer, same for a window winder. My wife's 2015 Fabia has made 80k-miles at 11 years and so far neither of these have failed but other parts have that I'd not expect with other makes of cars. VW /VWŠkoda seem generally more expensive to service and maintain and repair than some other makes. These brands seem to be getting like their Audi brand and best not kept out of warranty period. Plus the VWŠkoda Dealerships and VWŠkoda UK seem very reluncant to admit to knowing about these issues and sort them without charge to their customers, and then the former cons like the unrequired expensive service interval cambelt change. Unfortunately I doubt they are much worse than others in the UK motortrade. To end on a better note, lets say they took a while but they have indentified the issue and hopefully it will be covered by the extended warranty even if only as a "goodwill" gesture. Let's hope it's now sorted. Good luck.

If it has an AGM setting then I'd be surprised if it can't do a EFB battery which is just an enhanced normal battery (Enhanced Flooed Battery), you're old emough to know the old saying if all else fails read the (charger) manual. I've lived amoung old people for 44 years whether they can afford a 2024 Octavia or not they pay out for the most exopensive ways of getting the battery changed for their convenience, usually leaving thingsuntil it's a distress (premature) purchase. Same as with house electrics different drivers use different amounts of electric even in the same house and cars so difficult to do comparisions. VW's programming seems to be harder on batteries and they put in the cheaper type of battery from factory, even on their own Father car brand. Proportionately potentially at least higher mileage cars will have less starts and brake regeneration, unless in congested traffic often. It's the AGM batteries that are supposed to be more delicate to heat. Auto air-con is a big electric consumer and the newer the car the more interfering and informing "aids" and "assisits" to be powered. I fyou use thing like see-me-home (or whatever they call having the headlight on as you leave the car). Then only the other day I read about something to do with the park lights on IIRC even on my wife's more limited "aids" and "assists") 2015 Fabia it can be very draining on the battery and you might not realise you put this setting on that doesn't turn off under quite ordinary condition (sounded like another VW programing balls-up to me, but it's in the 'Owner's Manual'. The VW programming of keeping the battery charge to only up to about 80% isn't good for battery longity which is why I keep suggesting charging it to 100%, giving it a birthday and Xmas, or charge it badly needs. But I can understand if someone doesn't want to bother with wasting more life time and force farting about with cars. I just wanted prevention from VW battery programing upsetting my wife by making the car have another hassle. Using 11,000 Ah (if the computer programs have this correct) doesn't matter if around closer to 11,000 Ah is put back in, the battery will still age and deteriate but at least at a slower rate and the alternator also gets a little bit of relief now and then.

Your insurer would probbly be doing the same with the Merc driver, there's only really four big insurers and the system is now very elaborate with some inter-company revenue and profits created where none used to exist. Bear in mind even if you have protected No Claims Bonus next year's (and following years) premiums will rise. At least it's sorted and no one was hurt, only bits of German plastics and metals. Life goes ons, here's to happier days.

It might depend on the fob and/or the system he's using to prgram the fob but if he's been sucessful with other VW/VWŠkoda 2016 cars then more likily the fobs or he's not updated to the latest updates on his machine's system. But then I've seen on here even experts having issues and needing to send the cusomer to the Dealership. IIRC the Dealership (non-KESSY) remote folding-key fob for my wife's 2015 Fabia was £144 and £41 programming about a couple of years back. Personally as it was for my wife and her car I didn't trust or fart about with variable quailty keysmiths but I'm sure many are very good

Hi, welcome. Your question might get more and better answers in the Octavia Mk1 forum (or possibly 'Audio, Electronics and Security' forum). I will contact the Moderator (by clicking on the three-dots at the top right corner of posts and selecting 'Report' from the drop menu) and see if your thread could be moved to the Octavia Mk1 forum. HTH.

MoTs are only done once a year (after the first three years) so a lot can happen in those 11, 12 or 13 months. Better than it done reasonable annual mileage than low mileage for many aspects of the car and your ownership. Tyre health insn't just about the amount of tread left on the tyres (something any owner can easily check for themselves) it's also about the condition of the trad and the tyre sidewealls and tyre age (four number code on the sidewall). Best is if the four tyres are all the same make, exact model and of course size but if not that the tyres on eah of the two axles are exact match for the other side. Of course there are different quality of tyres, generally the harder longer lasting (tread) tyres have less performance (braking, grip, road holding, handling, road comfort and niose). For not fair wear and tear you need o have photos and garage back up and mileage and use to show it's not you causing or adding to the brakes rust. Again for brake fluid some just test for moisture content but this doesn't allow for the contamination the (very cheap to produce) picks up overtime. Changing the brake fluid regularly should also be used as a flush to the any unseen crap out of the system too. Same for coolant, just checking the antifreeze level is Ok is only doing part of the job and "for life" coolants such as VW use negelect to say what is considered life (beyond any car manufacturer warrant for VW and others). Same for gear oils too. But this all depends on how long an owner wants to keep the vehicle themselves and how much longer they want the car (engine) to last once out of their ownership. It's not in the car manufacturers' interests for the car to lasdt too many years. Despite all the electronic interference on modern cars much of the car is still mechanical and electrical and most (not all) servicing and maointenace still just boils down to clean and lubricate with perhaps some minor "spannering" easuily within a DIYer (often doing a better job than paid professionals because they care about the quality of the work and the car). Car manufacturers are already making it very difficult for DIY by more and more electronic lockouts and further "specialist" tools required but a 2019 car misses a lot of that.

To me all these immobilisers and alarms are nothing but a bloody nuiance, particularly on a car of this age, as they do go wrong and pack in and then you either need to search high and low for the exact replacement or work out how to wire in another model of alarm/imobiliser or work out how to get the wiing back to factory standard. This might be easy if the installation was done correctly but often someone who claimed to know how to fit the alarm either didn't or done the work incorrectly. A mate's just had this issue on a 1996 car, of an entirely diffent sort of car, that would have had a factory fitted imobilser but not the silly alarm. After two failed replacement alarm/imobilsers he had them disconnected and just used a remote controled battery disconnect as an immobiliser but just recently has had wiring issues that highlited the worse bodge of wiring and multiple unecessary connectors I have even seen. A good auto-electrician also said the same as me, I knew he would, and has just made safe and sorted the non-working essentials with a major part-rewire to correct colours, connectors and standards later. With cars (and home) I've often seen electrical bodges on top of previous electrical bodges which just compounds the complexities of getting it right for full confidence of fully sorting things to all correct. Note: I'm not an electrician of any sort.

Try using an appropriate battery charger following the instruction in the manuals and fully recharging the battery to 100% slowly (2, 3, 4, 5=amps charger) rather than letting car's computer dictate only 80% charge. If it's not too late this should help improve things. The higher mileage depends on the type of driving and electrical use during the driving and when arked up. Even at 30k-miles a year the car is only driven a fraction of the time to it not being driven. What's running on the car, other than all the computer systems when it's parked up. Try the (preventative) slow charging to 100% (could take many hours) and see how that might improve things (if not too late). I would always consider a VW prgaraming issue over any Varta battery possible faults (11 times out of 10).

Many people put too much faith in an MoT pass. An MoT is only one (hopefully trained) person's opinion that, at that one and only piont in time, the car's meets the mimimum statutory standards. It does not mean the car is as good as it could or should be and with the greatest of good intentions the car could have additional advisories or even fail another MoT minutes or seconds later, let alone days, weeks and months later. The car may have been in a salty or damp area (you are in Scotland) or with these types of cars they can can be used very little and/or sit for long periods of time unused, which can mean rust and rust buildup on the brakes. Cars are designed to be used, many cars now aren't used enough, especially by older owners that don't really need a car but still want one. Some good news - the front dampers ("shocks") may be leaking but it might only be what is refered to as "misting" a common thing on VW's of this type at least. Those that know about VW dampers give allowance to this common "misting" (lack of) quality issue. Of course your dampers might be worse than "misting". The replacement (£500!) new 2-year warranty front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia were "misting" 11 months later. Weeks later on having the replacements to the replacement the VWŠkoda Dealership that fitted the leaking new "misting" pair gave a fresh MoT without advisories. a year later a proper (independant) garage knew all about VW dampers and put the "misting" as an advisory on the MoT and following MoT they done. They could replace them if required with better quality dampers for a much, much lower fitted price. VWs are not as well made as many still think they are, but Czech Škodas are better built and factory quality stadards than the German built versions. And low mileage on a car isn't as good a thing in many respects as many people think it is. If the car had rust build up and then the seller had it sitting around for a while if the rust hadn't been attended to then of course it would be worse. I've dealt with elderly neighbours' cars that had rusty brakes, some clean up with use of the brakes, some a lot more use of the brakes and one as I put before intermitently locked up a front wheel so that it got very hot and siezed up and perhaps released when cool - but that depended not getting the disc too hot. The front discs and pads are very easy to do, a DIY job for even someone like me, I put up guide(s) on front and rear disc and pads replacements. The fronts were the easiest of the few I've ever done over decades. The rear drums I believe might just be usual farting-about-with-cars awkward rather than difficult, but I don't know for sure as i've never done any on a Fabia. You don't p1ss about with brakes and you always replace both sides of discs and brakes (same for dampers) and if a caliper can't be refurbed then it needs replacing. Some calipers are very inexpensive, no idea about VWs. You would also change and flush the brake fluid on a job like this. Front and back brake failures may or may not be a coincidence it depends on what is found on inspection. The exterior appearance of the rear drums may or may not fully reflect the condition of the brakes inside - the thing is you can't assume, or accept a car seller's word for such unless they have been checked in which case they would also have been cleaned and seller would tell you that. With second hand cars, more so, it's a case of Buyer Beware, you should check not just the car but it's history. With the car registration you can check past MoT history and the recorded mileage at MoTs and cross eference the information and any mileage with othert history such as service and "road tax". Any gaps may mean the car was sitting getting things like brakes rusty. Also bear in mind tyres are an essential part of the braking, steering and supension systems and often a good indicator of possible general car condition and how it's been looked after particularly just prior to or at piont of sale. A lot of info but there's a lot to know and as you have found it's better and less expensive to learn from the experiencies of others. Let us know how you get on.

If your grandad has kept the instructions for any aftermarket alarm then that should tell you about what flashing indicators mean. The fact that it is 34 times seems significant but too many for a code I would guess, the regular amount of flashing and the interval between may be about time interval rather than number of flashes. IIRC codes were about 3, 4 or 5 flashes, not that I ever added alarms and were annoyed by those already fitted at factory, they seemed to stop few thefts and break-ins and were a PITA (pain in the arse) when they played up. Good luck.

The amount of service and maintenance VW recommends generally for its cars is already mimimal or not enough especially some of the time/mileage intervals for longivity of the engine and car (although the electrics and electronics will probably limit lifespan). Enjoyment is much about attitude, if you only look for ego figures on dynos and on the dash generally you will always want more, smaller less powerful cars can be more fun (speed limits in uk are only really 60 mph anyway). Power to weight and a lighter (by modern standards anyway) can give a better impression of say speed and acceloration than a heavier more powerful car going faster amd quicker. A well handled small car is generally more inpresive than a large car going at fractions of its potential. The ego speedos in modern family cars always made me laugh. Spend your money on further driver training and it's fully transferable plus if you go on somelike advanced driver (road) training it can sometimes be benificial for insurance premiums and perhaps some jobs.

Hi, welcome. Sorry much more information is needed to try to help. What warning light has come on and gone off 34 times, what is the warning light for? Look at the car's 'Owners Manal' for the VW terminology for that warning light and what it means). What is happening when the light comes on or is it on at turning the ignition switch on? What causes the lighjt to go off? Do you notice any problem or issue with the car? How long have you owned the car and do you know any of the servicing, maintenance and repair history of the car? You might find it easier to use a translation system to get your post in English. I hope this helps you.

You're in the wrong forum this is for those about to buy a Skoda. I will asked a Moderator to consider moving your thread to the Superb Mk3 section (by clicking on the three-dots at top right of posts and selecting 'Report'). HTH.

You have me confused ASR(?), by Googling comes up with Anti Slip Regulation wihich in the 'Owner's Manual' for my wife's 2015 Fabia is the acronyms of ESC (stability control) or TCS (traction control) warning symbol so nothing to do with MAF (engine Mass Air Flow). You shouldn't generally have any issues with ther MAF at 36,000 miles (average of over 5k-miles per year but that's just an average actually annual mileage could vary a lot). 2109 cars are full of very complex and intertwinned computer systems on top of the mechanical and electrical systems so this adds another layer of complexity to running and repairing the cars and the Germans including VW for many decades back have (over) complicated their system. A small fault in one system can create an issue in another system that may seem unrelated. Whatever warning symbol it is could be a very simple repair or it could be a very expensive and complicated repair and/or perhaps something that reaccures. Unless you have someone with an appropriate level scan tool abnd the knowledge to correctly interpret the report I would suggest you reject the car. Some Briskoda members have such scan tools and are willing to use them on other members cars aften for a beer token only (but not if a professional) so see the map on the following link and see if you are able to contact someone near to you and if they are able to help you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

Hi, welcome. I think it might be best if your post is moved to the Octavia Mk2 forum for your question about the oil consumption from other Octavia Mk2 1.8 TSI owners and others. I will asked a Moderator to consider this (by clicking on the three-dots at top right of posts and selecting 'Report'. HTH.

Have a look on the map. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

That's the thread I was going to piont you to, I done the work on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia. Yes it is possible and possibly likely. Your fuse might be different but you already know its location. If you have access to a VW appropriate scant tool it might give some indictions of the issue but I'm not sure as it might think the wipers and stalk are working correctly because computers despite what some seem to think, or we get told, are very, very dumb and easily fooled. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

If it really was that small amount if you have not started the engine since you could extract it from the coolant reserviour (turkey baster or other) and top up with correct later or if you have driven the car just forget about it. Always best to stick to same specification and brand and make of stuff like coolants where possibly. The German's just love to have their own specifications and numbers which confuses those not German. AFAIK - (check and cross reference any information you get, especially from a bloke off the internet or car or other manufacturers (databases) as errors and ommissions are often made) - VW are still on their latest silly name and number of G12evo (following G13 off course). Your reserviour may show the VW G number on it (or may not). Also take anything AI (artificual, yes, Intelligence, no) with a large pinch of salt, treble check and treble cross reference any AI you see, consider it might be part or all fantasy. VW G12evo is BASF G65, G40 is Merc number. - https://ato24.de/en/kuhlmittel-finder And the desciptions of the collants aint as I see them G12evo looks more pink to me. VWcoolantsG12evo.PDF HTH.

If the front collision is giving an inactive symbol it might be that. It looks like it might have four wires so identifying their colours might help with what it goes to (I don't have a wiring diagram) brown is usually earth. A 12v bttery in a too low state of charge for the computers can also cause all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily (engine not starting needs the battery to be very low indeed). So check the state of charge of the battery just in case as you can have two (or more) issues/cause at once. But of course the computer systems are very complex and intertwined so an issue in one can cause unexpected issues in others that's without the usual computer brain farts and errors and ommisions in the programs. No connection should be that loose, but it's off - unless it's a connection not used in your trim level perhaps - so I would also check battery terminal and other electrial connections for tightness and security. Hopefully someone else that knows or has access to a general wiring diagram may be along with more information. Good luck let us know how you get on.

How long the 12v battery lasts depends on the driver's use of the car's electrics and how and when it is driven. To extend the useful life of the battery and potentially prevent all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and issues, it is best to do full (100%, s/s VW only goes to about 80% by programing) preventative recharges with an appropriate battery charger maintainer (doesn't have to be an expensive one). Recharge by following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer. The engine not starting is only when the battery has been taken very low indeed well before that even if the headlights seem bright enough the battery can be in a too low state of charge for the computer systems that will then make you suffer with all all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages, unseen error codes and issues. Loads of threads and posts for all the stop/start models on this site with the unexpected issues from having the battery too low for what the computers like. Batteries are expensive and there can be the additional cost and hassle of 'coding' the new battery into the car's computer system. A battery in good state of charge and health will help the car (and alternator) whereas one in a low state of charge and health can hinder in many ways. Number one reason for breakdown callouts is for battery and charging problems many of which would not have been the fault of the battery (or charging system). HTH.

Depends on how it runs and you won't really know that without a few starts and reasonable length drives under various conditions, you were concerned with reducing possibly smokey exhaust output. As Alasdair has put car not driven, ethanol fuel settling out and sucking in moisture, moisture and oil drain in engine, are never best conditions for exhaust output alone, never mind engine. You need to get the engine up to full oil warmed temperature then if the car is running OK have the pistons and rings going at around peak torque for a reasonable time, get oil around and to clean cylinders and to have larger volumes of filtered clean air going through the engine and out of the exhaust, clearing the probe(s) a bit whilst doing so. Petrol with additional cleaner additive package will also help clean the fuel system and engine and with exhaust. The more fuel and air you can put in the more of everything that goes out the exhaust. The engine is just an air pump on four wheels.

Uhmm, I wonder if this is possibly to do with ABS or other such electronic system(s). As I put I would pull the ABS fuse or connection, turn on the ignition and see if the dash has anything to say, then if not start the engine and see if you can drive the car a yard or two as a test. If the dash has lights or messages or even if not I might try dissconnecting the battery for 10 or more minutes to see if that helps (have the electric windows and sunroof fully shut, IIRC you should only need to reset the time of day clock then). There could be two different issues, one with front wheel and other rear wheels, by two different causes but that might be too coincidetal in this case (or might not). For rears I might check releasing bleed nipples, handbrake mechanisms, handbrake is off, jack the rear sides up to try turning the wheels. Check brake pedal. If available plug in scan tool but not expecting too much help from it. Are you DSG or manual gearbox?

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it alomng with all the others subjects, sections and forums on the (Briskoda) site is a section for the Kodiaq including Kodaiq Mk2, Kodiaq Guides and Kodaiq Project forums. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ HTH. Good luck.

Just for general info, just been setting up computer stuff on my wife's new (2025) secondhand car and it seems like you can set the dash(?) service interval by any number of days and miles, I've no idea if this is also the case with the 2025 Fabia MK4.