nta16

Skoda Fabia Mk3: Boot Won’t Open (Find Emergency Lever) - (loads of other useful videos on this YT channel too on (earlier) Fabia Mk3) -

With my wife's 2015 UK car the boot / luggage compartment (trunk is American) does not open if the metal keyblade is in the ignition cylinder lock. I always refer to the Owner's Manual before the internet and I would also follow the instructions in there to synchronise the remote as it's so easy and quick to do (other than the car alarm going off when you open the door so you need to get the keyblade into the ignition cylinder lock as quick a possible to turn the car alarm off. If you have a proximity key (KESSY) I don't know about those so much (can anyone tell me what advantage they give to abled-body people?). The other thing you could do is look at the mechanical parts of the rear door, catch and hook for obstructions, perhaps check the emergency opening from inside (see Owner's Manual) after that check wiring and connection to to rear door switch as on newer models I have seen they seem like they might fail. If required, from VWSkoda free downloadable pdf Owner's Manuals. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

I agree (but on time rather than mileage as that's more suitable for my wife's car's short journeys) and almost put about (wheel) tyre rotation but not everyone believes in it and VWSoda make the job not only a PITA but potentially a pain in the back and without the (often underinflated or flat) spare wheel more so hence my suggestion of 4 "alignment tools". ETA: I personally always remove the locking wheel bolt first and put (one of) the alignment tool(s) in that position and replace the locking wheel bolt last, same for torquing up. Four wheels, directional tyres. -

Sorry I meant to put the engine reporting on a scan tool might give information that might help find but (not necessarily identify cause(s) but often the usual basics of diagnostics will apply regardless, such as already mentioned - battery - or connections and cables on and to and from the battery including earths ignition - cables and connections, spark plugs (clean or replace as required), coil(s) air - in or out or escaping, clean and unrestricted engine air filter and air filter housing, hoses, or air leaks such as vacuum leaks petrol - petrol quality supplied and in car's fuel tank, clear and unrestricted tank, fuel filter and supply pipes/hoses, fuel pump, clean throttle body, injector(s), (carb?) electronics - sensors clean and fully operating, electric wires and connectors all clean (inside and outside) secure and protected mechanical - pedal, throttle connections and operation, cables and spring(s) engine - faults, running hot, head gasket failure, other. A full and proper service of the engine (and whole car) can often sort many issues in many instances (but not all obviously).

Hi Jack, welcome. You could also try your local VWSkoda Dealership, probably best to avoid excessively busy times, but politely asking should get you a "complete record" printed off on paper from their machines, best to take your V5C or a note of your VIN in to ensure they get the right car though perhaps the registration should be sufficient you always want to check and cross reference any information you get from any source (including the internet and manufacturers) with if possible two other (hopefully) reliable sources as all databases have errors and omissions. The "complete record" can only give you what has been recorded on it, which even if complete won't be too much and sometimes can be not a lot after initial delivery when new, so have a look at things like MoT history (freely available online) and any other sources. Full service history means a lot less in recent times to decades back as, VW servicing in particular, is little more than engine oil and filter change and a visual check for other chargeable work, there's also a "maintenance" schedule which older folk at least would consider part of servicing. A tip I give to all new, and current, owners of particularly later cars is to buy and use, in a preventative manner, an appropriate (12v) car battery charger maintainer if they want the battery to last a reasonable time of life and give good service and to avoid hassle and car issues on the car from the battery getting too low. Too low is before any warning messages and lights and well before the engine has any difficulty starting, the complex computer systems don't like low battery charge and can make you suffer in unexpected ways for your mistake. Just because the engine starts and the lights seem brighter enough doesn't mean the battery isn't in a low state of charge. Which leads me on to my second tip, read the Owner's Manual as soon as possible (before buying the car is best) and refer to it and you could save yourself time, hassle and money, despite what some think it's not illegal in any way for a man (particularly "tradesmen") to read instructions. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models VWSkoda "update portal" - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ VWSkoda "Recall Campaigns" (well the ones they admit to) - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns HTH. Good luck. Below an old servicing and maintenance schedule (so out-of-date pricing) to give you an idea of the (limited) work that might have been carried out by VWSkoda Dealership. Independent garages or owners can contribute to service data systems too.

It may be different in Chile and Greece but in UK you would be very lucky to find a Dealership/garage/mechanic that has a scan tool, VCDS or other, that has a program for a 1995 Felicia. A Ross-Tech (VCDS provider) 2007 chart shows 1995 (6U) Felicia needs a Felicia adapter to their cable. Generic scan tools can come with lots of different adapters and leads as pre OBD2 (1996 OBD2 made mandatory for all cars sold in the United States) manufacturers had their own version which could even differ on their cars. These adapters and leads tend to get lost/mislaid with the passing of time due to lack of use (unless the garage/mechanic specialises in the model. And I've just read, according to Wikki, VW in 1968 "introduces the first on-board computer system" which explains to me why their computers programs got so complex on their later vehicles. If I have understood correctly, according to a previous Briskoda posters the VCDS may cover engine, ABS, air bag, immobiliser and diesel electronics, the system will read and operate very slowly compared to later cars and more modern models.

Well now you need to orientate the badges and take into consideration the black bolt cover position, the tyre valve position and the aesthetic of the wheel, it's spokes and spaces, you need 25k-mile to sort that properly. 🙃 For wheel changing (or moving) with the stupid wheel bolts (instead of nuts on to studs) I use two alignment wheel stud tools to compensate for the lack of wheel studs as the VW wheel slipped off the very narrow centre lip and like an idiot I tried to stopped the wheel falling 1" (25mm) to the ground and I had interment back issues for the next 5 years from that 1 second of stupidity. And the next time I do wheel rotation I'll make sure I have two more of the tools instead of using the two on the two different wheel positions (bl**dy silly bolts and why five when four is enough). I also keep the locking wheel bolt in the same position on the wheel that way I have an 80% chance of knowing if the Dealership/garage actually took the wheel off. Alignment tool.

Just for info, you may already know and have done but in case not. "In order to achieve flawless measuring results, the engine should be kept at a speed of approx. 2,500 rpm. This ensures that the operating temperature of the probe is reached, even in systems with an unheated lambda sensor. If the exhaust gas temperature is not sufficient in idle mode, there is a risk that the unheated probe cools down and a signal is no longer generated." - https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-lambda-sensor-4379/# "Narrowband sensors (zirconia and titania), especially pre-catalytic converter, are tough to test with a multimeter. Multimeters do not respond fast enough to catch a narrowband sensor’s rapidly changing output." "3. Connect the multimeter to the heater’s power wires or contacts. Back-probes are the best tool for this. If you do not have access to back-probes, it may be easiest to connect the multimeter to the power lines by disconnecting the oxygen sensor from its harness, and connecting the multimeter to the connector. You should read the engine service manual to learn what you can and cannot do here." - https://gtc.ca/blog/testing-oxygen-sensors/

I'm not a fan of most alloy wheel looks generally but must admit the SEAT wheels are more attractive. A finishing touch would be to have the centre Skoda badges oriented on the wheels the same on each wheel, same for the position of the locking wheel bolts especially as they have a black plastic cover and the other bolts appear not to, though neither of these things might bother you and others. Glad you're happy with your new wheels and tyres.

Hi, welcome. Then why not use it to test the sensors, plenty of videos and information about, just one example. - https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Sensors-and-actuators/Test-lambda-sensor-4379/

Does your 2019 Fabia also act like a very nervous and very interfering with it's hands on yours and on your feet, throwing up amber warning about the road, your driving, a leaf blowing in the wind and the warnings are so brief they catch your eye but not up long enough to see what they were, having distracted your gaze from the road?

Well it is a 4-pot but also, you can't really compare a Toyota with a VW, Japanese engineering against German, it's just not fair. 😄

There are far too many competing priorities for the computer programmers programs, then what's going on with the car and how these programs interpret everything and that's not allowing for computer errors and glitches and (not saying this is with your car) components and parts perhaps not fully working or faulty. The manufacturers are still learning about these things and despite any amount of pre-launch testing often it's the customer's use in the real world over real time that aids development. British customers used to do most of the testing and product development once they bought the vehicles for some British brands (I know I was one of those customers). 🤣

This needs a separate thread, I've no idea how accurate the VCDS would be with a 2019 car but that seems a large difference. I've been driving a couple of different 2023 car, one a VW SEAT 1.0, 3-pcylinder, 110, and the other a Ren-No! Nissan and testing them out in Eco, normal/standard and sport and I think some issues may come from owners/drivers who are interested in fuel consumption not understanding the basics that in basic terms fuel consumption is about throttle pedal movement and revs and higher gears being gentler on engine wear and mixing the two up engine wear and consumption by running at too lower engine revs and gear. I proved this to my neighbour who likes to look at the car's (claimed) on-board computer fuel consumption figures. These cars, including my wife's 2015 Fabia have very little in the way of engine braking compared to older cars with far fewer electronics, computers and fancy engineering of the ancient ICE technologies. In the Ren-No! I left an uphill dual-carriageway in 5th (out of 6) manual gears on a narrow turn-off to an unclassified road and slowed so much that an amber waring message very briefly flashed up saying something about stalling but it never did even before I changed down a few gears, the computers rushed in to resolve the issue. I also showed to my neighbour that follwing Ren-No!'s manual gear recommendations an those low revs didn't give fuel saving and it was all about micro or ore throtle pedal movements, being steady with the throttle pedal and perhaps use of cruise control, perhaps speed-limiter (but I never use such driver interference stuff as I like to drive (well or not) a car and not be a passenger or part-time driver sitting behind the steering wheel). The gearing in these 1.0 3-cylinder VW engine'd cars seem to be very low to cope with the engine having to pull modern heavier cars and perhaps five passengers and luggage, if you want fuel economy try holding the gears a bit long and getting the revs up a bit higher perhaps whilst still going through the gears in a brisk but not racing manner. Following VW's recommendation for manual gear selection seems to me to be biased to far to engine saving, save the engine by timely, thorough engine oil and filter changes using very good quality oils and having the engine, and the rest of the car running well. Same for if you are not concerned too much with fuel consumption as well. Good luck.

This is an English language site. so it's best to translate to English, I've done so below so that others can give you the answer (as I do not know). Good luck.

Well done on getting it sorted. I doubt most Dealers and their staff would be bothered or know how to revive the battery satisfactorily even if it was possible, which with your battery it sounds like it was too late. I'd expect a battery to last more than two years but it does depend on use/abuse and neglect, but even though you can certainly depleted even a new battery unless there's a problem you should see longer than a couple of years. Skoda in their Owner's Manuals have that you change the battery at 5 years (or is it less now?) which should be totally unnecessary given preventative use of an appropriate charger maintainer. I expect to see some batteries changed at four years or less (depending on vehicle warranty decisions) with new cars and those from say 2021 onwards. Breakdown call outs because of battery issues will continue to be the number one, and growing, cause with still the vast majority of these that could have been avoided and premature sales of expensive batteries will continue and probably vastly increase. Don't be among the statistics, you know how to generally avoid that. - https://www.whatcar.com/advice/owning/what-are-the-most-common-breakdown-causes/n18506 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year/#comment-5814322 VW, BMW and Merc have been relying on the decades out of date belief that their "German build quality" is still high, as high as it was last century, and of course those buying the vehicles and wanting to retain their sales value and of course loyal marque fans, won't want this belief to diminish. VW like the vast majority, if not all, of car manufacturers often spend a lot of time effort and money getting away with as much as they can and we in the the UK are a soft touch and let them so it's good when someone doesn't allow them to get away with everything, well done, many of us are so beaten down by it all we do accept it too much. The front wings on our VW product hire car seem so flimsy I can imagine they'd rot very quickly once started, I was looking for dents after last night's strong winds. Good luck.

My way of explaining things isn't for all but can as always be read or ignored. That's part of your problem the decades old fashion for oversized wheels with wide rubber band tyres, party frocks for often only going to work in. Whatever tyres you get is restricted by this. The 87V is as you may know weight loading and speed rating of the tyre, 545kg and 149 mph. So you have a tyre capable of 149 mph (for a while) on a car that shouldn't generally be doing more than 70mph here but is required as the car's top speed is 120+(?) mph. Whatever tyres a set of four matching tyres makes more sense and as put correct tyre pressure is important, though some models get two pressures quoted the second being "Eco" which is at a higher pressure and generally gives more bumps but XL tyres run at higher pressure anyway. If you're in your 60s you may remember 70 profile tyres were considered low profile tyres, yours are 40, and even on a sports saloon back then wheel size would be on 13"/14", possibly models that heavy and fast (as your model) 15". Merely an example, 215/40R17 nominal sidewall size 3.4" (97mm) - 215/45R16 nominal sidewall size 3.8" (86mm) - 185/60R15 nominal sidewall size 4.4" (112mm) more 'rubber' and air gives more cushioning. Not that 15" may fit over the macho brakes and I don't know if the 16" would still need to be XL (XL used to be for work vans). With fashions you often have to suffer some discomfort and impracticability but you can look good, well at least until the next fashion. 😁

Hi, welcome. You might be better asking this on the Skoda Kodiaq MKI (2017-2023) forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/339-skoda-kodiaq-mki-2017-2023/ It wasn't the sound I was expecting so sorry I don't know and would only be guessing. It may not be so relevant for this mainly audio specific video but generally if you hold the phone camera the other way, landscape rather than portrait, you will get more into the frame and perhaps more information can be picked up or other relevant and/or related things noted. Good luck.

Low mileage in a car may not be as good for the car as you think, so do make sure you have an annual engine oil & filter change and also other items on the car checked and changed as required on a time or mileage basis, whichever is the sooner. If the car is driven more often now and for longer journeys that will help the car battery with charging but don't wait for any messages or lights to tell you the battery is low in charge and certainly not hesitation or delay in the engine starting because the battery is low. Many batteries from this sort of car year may be prematurely changed when all they needed was previous timely preventative charging with an appropriate charger maintainer. Good luck.

Now you are what they call "gaslighting" and once again turning a thread into an argument stream. You do not interact with me you troll. Of course things are repetitive as the same issues often have the same answers, you must be slipping if you think I don't put about long slow low recharges and others when appropriate. I'm totally lost why using a 35mm cube of old clean sponge (medium density are your words not the type I use) offends you so much but as I put before I'm not responsible for your life and your issues and cannot help you nor no longer want to. I have no idea if you regret posting some of your personal details to me (and others to see obviously) in a past obscure thread but I have never repeated them so forget that. Or is it that as you have seen in many threads that batteries do actually sometimes need the use of a battery charger and that it's not as you insisted and ridiculed me that the modern alternator can always recharge the battery sufficiently, and that lots of short journeys has no effect. It is OK if occasionally I get something right and occasionally you get something wrong, you've no need to apologises to me even if you do to others when it happens. You could have private/direct messaged me at anytime previously to sort things or get my explanations or sources of info to agree with or disagree but that boat sailed long ago and instead you keep pestering with targeted posts, it's boring for many as will be my very occasional response posts such as this. If you disagree with something I put or think its nonsense then just put that and others can agree or make up there own minds. And to your credit this time was at least humorous, if they were all humorous and instead of vindictive that would be great. s you put you skim read the posts and as I've put before I will no longer justify my remarks to you go do the research but I doubt you'll find much on 35mm cubes of used clean sponge - I've never recommended of Gummi Pflege, which is merely German for rubber care. Sorry all, I know you're not supposed to feed the Troll but sometimes you hope reminds might get some respite.

Rather than tyre tread depth left that may be what they meant, there's a lot more to tyres than tread depth, age and lack of use might contribute to their deterioration. Having put that, the Avon ZT7s on my wife's Mk3 Fabia cracked badly on the inside where you don't see in just over 3 years and 22k-miles. The Nexen N blue HD tyres the car came with (from new I'd guess) and the two Nexen N blue HD Plus I had to get as "distress purchase" certainly where the best but they weren't that bad either and the two that didn't need "distress purchase" didn't get noteworthy cracking in nearly 5 years and 34k- miles of use.

A good point has been made, I often find when I think I've got the seat of my wife's Fabia Mk3, and on other cars, fully down as it feels like the handle has come to a stop I can actually get another four pumps down (nothing preventing it under the seat). The handle is plastic so car has to be taken. I find, whether it's correct or necessary or not I've not investigated, that if I slightly lift the handle before pumping down on the first stroke that it seems* less resistance on first stroke. (sorry to others) - * Troll - please note I put these type of words and sometimes empathises in on purpose, please don't think you've clever in 'discovering' them.

I can see the humour of the post and if it was just that I'd find it funny, but unfortunately it's not just about making a (rather good) joke (that I set the punchline up for). Never mind context. 😉 And off we go again . . . I know stuff I put about VW, the car trade and farting about with cars that might well upset some VW fans, the car pros and those that enjoy fiddling with cars but there are plenty on the other side of the coin so both sides can be appropriate. Most of us can put our side and let others do the same even though we may disagree or strongly disagree but there's only J.R. who constantly trolls (me at least) possibly because of his anonymity and more distant location. As always the OP (regphenna) and others can chose for themselves what they want to read, follow and take advice or information from. Once again J.R. has posted on a thread only to try to belittle me yet offer nothing more to the thread - so once again I asked J.R. to stop doing it, disagree as much as you want but don't just try to shut me down as you should have learnt by now I won't be bullied by you.

Hi welcome. You really want the 'Skoda Roomster (2006-2015)' forum (you're in the Fabia Mk3 forum). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/101-skoda-roomster-2006-2015/ Mapping is a general subject and you will get the pros and cons from supporters and those that don't see it's necessary. Performance and additional car/engine performance to be fully appropriate and successful requires first that the whole car is fully and properly serviced, and maintained in a timely manner and repairs as required. Performance increases are often found just by the whole car being fully and properly serviced, and maintained in a timely manner and repairs as required, this may include a few bits more than VWSkoda put in their servicing and maintenance schedules and almost certainly than most Dealerships/garages/mechanics would bother with. Have you tried using your gears and revs more. Stick with what follows it is relevant. Only yesterday I was proving to my neighbour whilst driving his car that mpg (within reason) was more about throttle control more than higher gears and lower revs. As he's from Yorkshire (but not "real Yorkshire" as our friend from Lincolnshire who lives in North ("real") Yorkshire tells us) he is stereotypical "careful" with (some) expenditures so as the car has a moving bar display to show (claimed computer) mpg as you go I took great delight in demonstrating this to him getting the bar below 10mpg at times, pity it went to its maximum display of 60mpg every time I had to lift my foot off the accelerator. Lower revs and higher gears (within reason) is more about reducing engine wear. Mapping should be about performance, that performance could be about balls-out, ego power figures or overall performance that will include better mpg. Performance is also controlled by the driver, driver training will get better performance and can be mostly transferred to other cars at no additional cost. Yourself and others may of course have different ideas. 😊

Rooted has already put most of what I was thinking. I've no idea but I guess changing seats in modern cars can be more involved than you might expect. Also might sound odd but if you've not already done so adjusting the seat you have to a different position might help (depends of course) perhaps even raising from lowest position and the Fabia seat in my wife's 2015 Mk3 goes a long way back on it's base (provided you don't have someone sitting behind it). Perhaps an inflatable cushion, my wife uses one in some cars, barely inflated to put behind her back, but in your vase I'm thinking of perhaps on the seat base to compensate perhaps for the seat back bolster cushion on getting in. I'm short at 5' 5" but by habit I move the driver's seat fully back to get out and back in so I don't hit my head on the windscreen pillar and so that others can easily get in to the driver's seat as with short legs I have the driver's set close to pedals. I have the driver's seat fully down in the Fabia but raised a bit in other modern cars. Being five doors and not three means the front doors aren't as long so you do get closed to the windscreen pillar and perhaps sloping roof at front.