nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @NeilMH you can save screen space and virtual ink by ending the link after the itm (item) number, as in. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325285385141 The rest is the search path you took apparently, or so I was told. That's different to the one in the spare wheel well of my wife's 2015 Mk3 but that is a hatchback.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hence the two bracketed question marks, I have seen them mentioned on this site, try this. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well you seem to put more effort than most into your ownership, some makes and or models will reward you much than others for this. I like your idea of the remote pressure valve for the tyre in the boot but about once a year you may still probably want to take the wheel out to inspect the tyre.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think you got your reference tables the other way round to what I mean, not wrong just needs adjusting. 😉 And the little overweight German cars also get wide tyres, needed or not

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC far from the original idea of the Lotus engineers then but of course engineers often make amendments - but never mistakes. 😉 😁 More (thread) drifting than a Halford's car park. Early Elise with roundy-round driver of the time. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I've mislead you, it was the early (front?) pads on the earlier Elise that gave more of a track feel to the pedal, hard, and press later, whether they needed a bit of warming too I can't remember. I was very used to non-servo brakes, Spridget and Westies. I compared my MG BGT with servo against a non-servo B roadster and allowing for the difference in weight, car and tyres the braking distance was of course the same but different pedal feel, the different systems suited the different versions of the model I thought. The tyres of course make a big difference too.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah I was thinking of Fabias (but not the factory souped up jobs). But it's not just oil dilution problems on this car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (Partial O/T warning) 16" 😄 My mate's had his (factory built) N-reg ZEi 130 for over 25 years now and that's always been on 14" which makes me think it's a Clubman (take it to the track more) version as my new 1996 (P-reg Dealer not factory built) ZEi was on 15", as were the factory built Euro SEiGHTs. Plus his didn't have a heater whereas all mine were road going versions with heater (needed in winter and summer). All had independent rear suspension but I've only had de-dion suspension when I had a Rover P6 and that was so comfortable that I'd prefer to sit in the back as a passenger. Looks like 15" on your Elise but the body colour makes such a difference to how thinks look on such a car. I remember swapping drives with an early Elise on a club road event and I'm used to soft braking so even though I was told about the early Elise brake feel I took a bit of persuading to push the pedal harder and later. It reminded me when I test drove the new MGF and the brakes were very good compared to what I was used to and I thought that was fine as long as another MGF was behind. All road stuff I don't do roundy-round stuff except on very few times with restrictions. I loved the feel of the Elise, a metal tray flexing at four corners at once (forget the correct word) and the interior but the long gear lever, sills for getting in and out and the roof were a different matter but I believe bikini tops are now available. The Vauxhall had a plastic kiddies toy looking dash and radio but of course had the Toyota engine so a lot to offer (not that I'd know as I've never even driven one). 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. With some other engine it has been found that using a lower weight of oil has helped reduce oil dilution but as the VW engineers only specify their VW oil code specification (probably for the additive package to help with compromises in the engines?) there could be a range of oil weights. In the UK it might be 5w40, 5w30, 0w30 but you would know better which weight is better for use where you live. ETA: I am not suggesting a different weight of oil will overcome a fault with the engine in this car. I am with the others that suggest you reject this car as I cannot remember seeing anything about oil dilution on here - and - it has an oil oil leak - and - not much use in three years is generally not that good for a car, I would prefer higher mileage and or regular use over reasonable distance journeys. The absent of error codes does not mean there are not problems, do not over rely on error codes or the car's warning lights and messages as all can show too late to be of the best use. As you have already found human senses, including the mind can be in advanced of the car's error codes and warning lights and messages. If it was me I would walk away from the car and the Dealer.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you want second hand they're (?)often(?) seen for sale, perhaps the sales section here or places like eBay obviously you'd want the correct type, usually sorted by part numbers. I'd imagine too that you could buy the the filler with the set of the kit that fills it as new but I've never looked for such. You'll probably find threads on here about this, try a Google search to get back to the threads here.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Friends used to live above the snow line at Castel Bolton, (real so they kept telling me) Yorkshire and with a sloping drive their Scooby got snowed in and they said even the farmer's Landies couldn't get up the road to the village and the only vehicle that made it was an even then very old Vauxhall Nova, little engine and skinny wheels and tyres. SAABs, Volvo, Honda - what on earth brought you over to VWSkoda!! For season tyres you could put up a thread here or on the Wheel Zone or Tyre Zone, what about buying a set of s/h wheels in a different size for the winter tyres(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm probably older than you so wonder if 15" wheels are still bigger than is actually needed, other than for cosmetics of the wheel arches of course, depends on the brakes fitted of course but then often the brakes on many cars are just mine's bigger than yours sort of thing. Being used to the, formerly, more developed Westfields 😊 a mate told me that the race boys and girls were going back to 13" from 14" and I remember when Caterham first put the lovely Suzuki Cappuccino engine in and used steel (!!) wheels with 155 tyres I bet that was beyond most potential and actual buyers. The Lotus Elise engineers apparently wanted "skinny" wheels and tyres on the original car but the marketing lads said the cars wouldn't sell well without fashionable sizes. (Just seen you had an Elise, coincidence only that I mentioned it). Grip is more about tyre design and compounds than outright size. Sometimes less is more and you'd make less mistakes with more progressive involvement but it's good that physics is considered rather than thinking the car's computer systems can better all road or driving conditions, particularly from the driver. I declare, I am not a particularly good driver.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeap good for some of the car's computer systems but not any good for full use of the wheel and tyre in rotation of the wheels on the car to get use of five wheels and tyres rather than four and possibly the one in the boot never used. Take no notice of me I think the now decades old fashion for bigger and wider wheels and low profile tyres is just that particularly on family runabout type cars and motorised shopping trollies but I know I'm in a tiny minority, as always it's each to there own. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. All good stuff. If the 12.7/8v are after a couple of hours after parking up and much longer after recharging then they are very good. Be aware, do not wait for or fully rely on when warning lights and messages and error codes appear as often they are delayed and you or your spouse could notice if something is wrong well before the car's computers or the scanner tell you. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Dunlop SP Sport 195/55 R1 sounds like a standard tyre. A 15" wheel is oversized to the vehicle to me so to have one and tyre that can only be used as an emergency spare would be another annoyance to me, my wife's previous car had a steel wheel of the same size as the four alloys fitted but the tyre was IIRC one ratio shorter so it fitted in the spare wheel well even more annoying. You probably already know Haynes can have errors and omissions in their manuals, I'd normally go on the Driver's Handbooks instead but VW(Skoda) Owner's Manuals are not always the best written and don't contain things like tyre pressure and oil weights and capacities info most others I've seen do. The DoT manufactured dates are often on the other side it's another example of Sod's Law. You seem well set up in the tyre inflation and pressure checking departments.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Jocko, thanks to UP now know - 1G9 (?RER?) is 'Space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole)'. What are (all) the wordings and markings on your spare tyre as this will help perhaps to decide the matter, IIRC the few (ridiculously thinner) space saver tyres I've had all had 'Inflate to . . . ' on them. I'd sooner (did always) carry a manual footpump than the wheezy plug-in inflates that often burn themselves out and/or blow a car fuse given some real work to do or user neglecting the instructions for them. The one VWSkoda provided in my wife's Mk3 is particularly noisy and weedy and I think the gauge on it is about as accurate as my pronunciation and spelling.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great news in the end and well done to you for finding it. 👍 12.1v is about 50% charge to Ring Automotive or 40% to VW. From my experience - I'm not an electrician, auto-electrician or VW specialist or specialist of any sort - just my decades of experience dealing with my neighbours 12v car batteries - a long low slow charge of the battery with an appropriate battery charger will get the most into it and out of it, 4 amp fine, 2 amp perhaps even finer. It will take longer but it will be better, might take 20+ hours to fully recharge so will need some things many don't carry much stock of, patience and time. I've revived a few "dead" batteries, had 2 failures so far, of course the others weren't dead, in the same way that a "good" battery often isn't when someone tells you it is, in my experience. Then obviously you want to keep an eye on the charged battery to see how well it holds that charge with self-discharge and with load, throwing it on the car for a while would give it a real world test and you've got all the equipment to monitor it now. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I suggest that you fully recharge your battery with an appropriate charger and maintainer, even though it's not 4 months old, as this is not the time of year to beak down as many others are with flat batteries and charging system problems, usually alternator. Whether you put the charger on tonight or over the weekend, if you know the battery is fully charged then you have a good point of reference to start from for your diagnostics and perhaps when dealing with the people where you bought your car from. Machines for testing batteries and alternators are not rare exotic items freely available in a wide range of sorts to garages and DIY, whether they are always used appropriately and properly is a different matter, unfortunately not all the people in the motor trade are as honourable as they could be, your lot might not be trustworthy enough to sort an alternator problem - but I'm being biased as I don't know of course, they might be as pure as the driven snow and perhaps your alternator is fine and you have a rare faulty battery that won't accept charge. What Halford battery did you buy?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would just check all fixings are as tight as they should be and give the hinges a spray of suitable lubricant (GT85 in my case as I prefer it to the other lubricants I have used and have available to me in my shed). As you I would leave any more work until spring (which spring would be less certain).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would put a bet on if the battery was a bit low let alone flat that it could cause you all sorts of unexpected issues and possibly warning lights and message before you even know or are warmed officially that the battery is a bit too low for the car's computers and their programs. You did not reply if the battery held its 12.8v charge with the battery charger or maintainer disconnected and for how long it holds that charge. If a battery is taken too low and not replenished but with further discharge then it may not ever fully recover even if fully rechargers so do keep an eye on your battery until you know that it is reliable. The better quality and newer the better recovery it can make but it does depend on the use (abuse and neglect) it had received and the use (abuse and neglect) in future short, medium and long term. Some can just not understand or accept how important the 12v battery is to the car and the newer and more luxurious the the car the greater the battery's state of charge and health importance is. A 2013 VW(Skoda) start/stop car is very battery needy. Playing with sexy toys like scanners is fun but but never neglect the basics, like the battery's state of charge and health.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. How much the battery gets from a long drive depends on what the battery is giving out and getting back in, the alternator could also be working a lot to keep up. Once a battery has been depleted it doesn't always come back from that completely depending on its age and use (abuse and neglect from many). This is another reason to fully recharge when things get a bit low. The batteries are designed for regular use and charging. I don't know of any portable chargers and something like solar trickle chargers would be impracticable. The only sensible working solution I can think of is to fully recharge the battery ASAP by removing the battery from the car and fully charging it in/at home and if the battery is in a good state then just keep an eye on it after reconnecting. Check your Owner's Manual for how to lock and unlock the car without power, as long as you have the windows and roof closed I think others have said you lose nothing that's listed in the Owner's Manual other than the time of day clock. Personally I'd still do the windows reset/synchronise as it's so quick and easy to do. Then up to you if you want to do the full recharges the twice or three times a year as prevention and longevity of battery life or do them when you have convenient parking. Or you could get a multimeter or battery tester (sometimes combined with an alternator tester) and check as required and replace the battery as required. I look after the battery on my neighbour's car as the car simply get so very little use, it's only a very small battery but I often find it more convenient to remove it from the car and fully charge it in the shed, or spare room in winter, and manually lock his car and reset the clock than having an extension lead from ours to his. As the battery ages I'm checking it a bit more often and fully recharged it off the car the other week (just about needed it too) because it'd be easy for me to remember I'd done it at start of January.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Empower yourself simply by having a look at your Owner's Manual, if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners and know or can find what all these named things are. You only need to know where to find the information, the Owner's Manual, rather than having to remember all the different names and different acronyms that the different car manufacturers use for the same thing. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a pdf download from the following link using your VIN (vehicle identification number) found on the car and in the paperwork for your car or just look at the (part) year your car was made. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at your Owner's Manual, if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners. If you don't have the paper printed copy you can get a pdf download from the following link using your VIN (vehicle identification number) found on the car and in the paperwork for your car or just look at the (part) year your car was made. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models From the 05. 2009 Owner's Manual. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back and informing others. This is the problem many warnings will come too late, just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it can still be that the battery charge is too low for the computer programs and they will throw up all sorts of unexpected other warnings and issues - as you have discovered. Often just driving is not enough to fully recharge the battery, that's part of the reason the battery gets low in the first place, as varooom has put a full recharge with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) is required. C-Tek are good but personally I think they're expensive and a low slow charge is better better than a higher fast charge but it does require time and patience as it could take up to 24 hours+. See this post I put up last night for more details.-

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you check the new thermostat before installing it? Have you removed the new thermostat since it was suggested to you? Just because something is new doesn't mean it can't be faulty, did you buy a good quality thermostat or cheapest you could find on the web? You haven't given a lot of info to go on, how long have you had the car and it hasn't got up to temperature? How long has the top hose only been warm, summer, winter, part of winter? The dpf light may well be on if the engine is running cool but it could also be on for other reasons separate or in addition to the cool running. What type of journeys do you normally make in distance, time and type (stop/start city, b-road slow or blasts, A-road slow or blasts, motorway)? What is the service history of the car, have you plugged in a scan tool, if so what temperature readings did you get for the various temperature sensors? Just because you have changed a lot of parts doesn't mean they were necessarily directly good for this issue(s) and changing more still may not resolve this. I've always been in favour of thorough cleaning of the whole coolant/heating systems and flush / back-flush flush again at each stage of cleaning and system but that's more about efficient cooling. What have you done to the engine rather than the cooling/heating system?