nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just been out to check, engine off, DAB radio on, sidelights on to see illuminated switches, heated rear screen on, plus I noticed the heated door mirrors setting had been left on (that's tomorrow's first discussion when we get in the car sorted). DAB radio worked fine, no difference when I turned the heated door mirrors or rear screen off. Have you checked the charge in your car battery with an appropriate battery tester tool or multimeter a couple of hours after the car was parked up? (ETA: no radio pic on your post that I can see but don't worry about that for now.)

three buttons, each side or four? hold on I'll go out and try my wife's car (without engine running, I only put the smart battery + maintainer on the other week so I know the battery (should) be good.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Is the vehicle fully factory standard or have any items been changed or added? Which "radio" is it? Could it just be "atmospherics" at the moment causing or contributing to the problem? That's me out of ideas (for now(?)).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Typical oil companies, fancy tricking a honourable company like VAG and bringing the German engineering quality into the slightest possible area of doubt by sneaking sulphur into gear oil without informing them of its presence, no wonder it took 12 years to discover and no wonder VAG insist on the way they specify the oils for their vehicles. Tut, :shakeshead:. Well I've never seen such libel, that ECU Testing suggestion that they'll replace VAG components parts with their own re-engineered solutions with an unlimited mileage lifetime warranty because VAG new replacement part will be the same as the one that broke and one get 12 months on it. Tut, :shakeshead:. VAG Messatronics, that's the word I couldn't think of. 😁 It takes a long time to lose a bad reputation but much longer to lose an underserved good reputation especially when you throw in customers' brand loyalty with perhaps added marque snobbery and customer ego, (some Skoda even) VW, Audi, SEAT(?), Porsche, Bentley (perhaps even Lambo for those that can't really afford them), BMW, Mercedes. Seems to be a grouping and sub-grouping but I can't think of how. BMW and Merc owners of old particularly told all how good their vehicles were kinda help keep the resales value up when they wanted to sell them. I well remember a local BMW owner that had loads of engine problems changing his 5 year old BMW for a 10 year old Lexus as a stop-gap and couldn't believe how good it was so was then prepared to say how poorly the BMW compared against it. 😄 Most brands have lots of faults (some more than others) but you'd never know it from the reputation (most) manufactures and many vehicle owners give them or defend them. I don't worry about putting this and scaring the OP, RickW an A40 owner (show or race?) but some might be new news to NeilMH(?). I well remember when someone in our club brought the Audi TT when it first came out, a voyage of discovery for him and Audi he only saw his car for a matter of weeks for the first 18 months while they tried to sort out the model, he insisted on his courtesy car being a TT which caused the Dealership all sorts of problems each time the sold car went back to Audi but the ground rules had been set at the very beginning so were more difficult for the Dealership to wriggle out all the subsequent times, new Audi owners often held more "prestigious positions" back in them days and knew all the long words to get what they wanted. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Personally if I was keeping the car I would change the oil at 8 or 10 years or perhaps 12 years but not never. VW have already had to change their minds on what oil and software is needed and oil and its additives don't last forever. And what sort of 'synthetic' oil is better replaced with 'mineral' how badly wrong did the 'German engineering quality' engineers, designers, suppliers, manufacturers, management get this gearbox, software and oil specification and why. I used to do thorough oil changes, and use better oils, on gearboxes and axles (on very old cars) as a matter of prevention and improvement rather than absolute need because the change had been left too late, this despite for decades being told I was wasting my time and money, particular by engineers. I don't want things just working I prefer that they work well and much more importantly that they work reliably and don't require any work at inconvenient times. I've had enough of that to last me three lifetimes. Different gearbox entirely I know but I changed the oil of the 5-speed manual gearbox on my wife's 2015 Fabia at about 5.5 years old and 38k-miles because the weather was OK, my back wasn't playing up at the time (thanks VW stupid wheel bolts instead of studs) and the oil was on special half price offer at the time. My wife said she could notice a difference, placebo perhaps but it certainly wasn't just to please or agree with me as we've been together far too many decades for that sort of falsity over lumps of metal.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be a waste of very little time time and very little materials but if you have the door panel off already put the straw on the can of WD40 and give the microswitch, as much as you can, a bloody good spray of WD-40 (GT85 would be better but work with what you've got). Might do sweet FA but so little to lose to try. Might be best done with car battery disconnected, if so you might as well also with the battery disconnected put the ignition on and press hard and hold the brake pedal down for a few seconds to drain those nasty computers, don't forget to switch off and remove key from ignition after. Again if it does FA to help directly to this actual issue it's only took seconds and next to no effort. As key workers I'd suggest three cans of GT85 (tenner at Wilco for three), a can in car(s) and home, use the WD-40 to help preserve garden tools. - https://gt85.co.uk/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you've got the semi-automatic climatic system have you checked the blower knob set to 4 to see if it's the apparently common falling resistor green thing rather than the motor. I've no idea about wiring diagrams but as I think I've mentioned before don't rely too heavily on the fuse box info given by VWSkoda in their Owner's Manuals, perhaps the info in yours is spot on but they're not always, German engineering quality this century isn't the same as the previous century. Also no doubt whether semi or fully automatic there'll be a load of complicated conditions and procedures to the operation so I'd consult the handbook to make sure they're all met for the fan to operate before putting in any manual effort other than turning paper pages or scrolling virtual pages. I saw something about the fan speed reducing if reversing (to stop exhaust fumes being suck into the cabin(?)) I don't know if that's only if you have a window down but what about the manual hand-cranked rear windows(?), I've not tried with my wife's car but VW seem to have gone out of their way to make the computer programs complicated, intrusive and intertwined, handy if you want to hide cheats. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm with varooom, more photos would help, from further back and close up, if others have been there before and parts are damaged things may not be as 'book' or factory. I couldn't follow which screws were being referred to in varooom's attachment (but I'm not always quickest to catch on).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just in case I've caused any misunderstanding, or as often happens I've not made myself clear, I'm not suggesting an inexpensive worn out part shouldn't be changed but just to make sure the right and best one is fitted as a replacement. On a car of this age unless I'd owned it from new I'd not just assume the part fitted is original or best suited - but it could be one or both, I'd just check. I've had lots of expensive and very annoying work from inexpensive parts, and just because a part fits and works doesn't mean it's working as well as it could or should, as in the present MAF sensor. And I'm certainly not against changing an inexpensive part to save hassle and getting dirtier than I need to but I'd want fit and forget, the part to be fully working as it should removing hassle not contributing hassle by giving wobbly info for the computer programs to play around. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Always check your car battery is not low in charge as this can cause problems and can hinder sorting electrical problems, if you have a multimeter you can check the battery (an hour or two after the car has ben parked) if you have a suitable smart charger you charge the battery on the car, it can take a lot longer than many think to fully recharge a battery, a smart charger will go into maintenance mode once fully charged so you can leave it fitted as long as you can, could be overnight, could be longer. After you have sorted your fan/switch, the cabin filter is dirty whatever material it is, very dirty if it's supposed to be white, the wipers if not as varooom has put could be a few other things and perhaps the switch. Airbag light if for passenger may be as it should be if it's like the one on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in that it stays on for quite a while after driving off. If you don't have your paper printed copy you can download a pdf copy of the Owner's Manual, from the following link, which should give you lots of information on warning lights (but fuse diagram might still be wrong). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck, you're doing well already.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Shortish journeys driven gently and mostly dual carriageway may be good for fuel economy but it won't be a blowout or higher temperature run. Good and interesting A, B and unclassified roads where you can use more of the gears and rev range would be better, isn't that what the VRS badge is about. Unless the factory fitted MAF sensor has with time been found not to be the best I'd match [ETA: the new sensor to factory] exactly (even if it's Bosch but I'd see if the label lifts off) I'd not buy a 'matching' or 'compatible' alternative even if it's the same label as fitted now. If the MAF is easy to photo I'd do that and check that it's factory original and check back here for advice if necessary. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You'd do better to get a can of GT85 and use the can of WD40 to coat garden tools. GT85 is better, I've used it on fans and other motors in house and cars. - https://gt85.co.uk/ If you can brush or blow or vacuum away and dust/debris in the area first all the better. ****-poor fuse box information seems to be regular thing on the VWSkoda models and there can be more than one possible fuse number/location so read through the whole list for possibilities. Best not to just do a visual check on a fuse but a check with a multimeter or swapping out with know working fuse of the same type and amperage. What are the two items below for?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You have a diesel and going on shortish journeys driven gently and mostly dual carriageway - not good use for a diesel (or petrol) , it's a VRS so giving it some blowout runs as a VRS would be to get would help. How often is the engine oil& filter changed, quality of oil, how often the air filter, ever put the "cleaner" diesel fuel in. I cleaned a mate's (Citroen) 100k-mile diesel MAF (and a bit of the inside of the air intake trunking), as with anything diesel it was a bit of a black ****ty business, the air filter had been changed at the previous service. Just doing that did improve things. With replacing the MAF sensor just get a good one, personally I'd always go with Japanese over German brand name, unless the brand name sticker could be peeled back to reveal the part is actually Japanese. 🤣 You really believe a VW computer about such things. 🤣 Being serious it shows variances in computer programs and the information the sensors can give so perhaps if a good quality MAF sensor isn't expensive then it might be better replaced if it's got too inaccurate. My mate's Citroen is only a runabout not a sports model (not that his sports models get enough maintenance servicing for me liking).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Small point but presently the positive battery post clamp has been overtightened and squashed and sits high on the battery post, easily sorted next time it's disconnected and reconnected. And perhaps the battery cover is upside down(?).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I don't know it's location but it might vary depending on which engine (code) you have. You could look on a parts diagram, example on 2015 engines. - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/1/ If it's a known fault you'd hope there might be info on this to garage services on the information systems they subscribe to and Dealership technical bulletins, perhaps even recalls (but I doubt it we are talking about vehicle manufacturer) you could perhaps check on the following links for updates (perhaps on other stuff too/instead of). RECALL ACTIONS - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The 99 I was thinking of getting in the early 1990s but they were all too expensive as a second and old car. We did go and look at a 9000 with about 120k-miles on it but test driving it I found it to be too big for what we needed, I like small nippy cars and had no ned for comfortable cruisers. I had a mate that was a company rep for various small private companies and always got a flashier model in the range (along with low basic and high commission) and I'd get to drive those cars and can particularly remember a pair of Mk3 Cavalier SRi, one soon issued after the other. The first was very quick to me used to older slower cars and designs, the second was noticeably slower, whether this was because it was a Friday afternoon car or because it was designed but not fully real-world tested to run on the yet to be introduced unleaded petrol, or a bit of both I don't know, or perhaps the first car was well above average. An Astra 1300S that he somehow wrangled when working as a shop manager was used to carry some real railway sleepers from a disused railway as a base for another mate's shed, these were real not DIY garden centre ones, so heavy, how the rear springs survived I don't know, if it'd been night the headlights would have been at the treetops. The Fabia Mk3 may well have entirely different programing but with my wife's Mk3 the reversing sensor screen with bleep if the gear lever has been left in reverse with just turning the ignition on without starting the engine and stop/start works at a certain engine temperature but certainly below normal operating temperature in my experience of short journey driving. I've not noticed if the coolant gauge is at it's biased 90 needle straight up but I don't think the oil temperature wouldn't be at 80 let alone 90 or 95, but I've not done a study on this just my perceptions.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I know all about them with modern car parts or dealing with the English motor trade. 😄 (I can laugh about them now certainly didn't at the times.) Previous SAABs and Volvos I can well see but Vauxhall(?) my only experience of them was when the USA government were bailing out GM so possibly not at the best time. Having had a few old and brand new English cars and a few Japanese cars I know which are best for reliability - but not full driving enjoyment necessarily. Never had a SAAB though I always fancied a 96 or 99. I've been driving old (lower value) over-priced and over-valued cars called "classics" for the last 30 years as dailies along with new or more modern cars so coming to the modern VWSkoda was a bit of a shock (air filter change every 6 years and not 6 months) and the intrusive computer programs. Legally driving and passed the test in 1977 so the "classics" were just old bangers then and from the 60s but they were more modern than the 1973 Midget I was driving until a few months ago. Not having the start/stop at least is one less very involved complication you don't have to worry about. I'm sure you'll be sorted with your Fabia and 3k-miles is just about enough to keep it turning well (depending on the mileage spread and journey types and lengths), I know cars that barely do 300miles, not so good for proper use).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough, Even though it's very tempting to forget about it probably best not to as Sod's Law often applies. Check the state of charge of the battery, a couple of hours or more after it's been driven and if you have access to a good level of scanner or even just an error code reader see what comes up on them , if anything.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. After I posted I saw a post where you put you had a Ford Prefect so guess you might be even older than me and have even more decades of car experience so then thought you might be used to the more comprehensive Driver's Handbooks of the past. VW have some odd ways of doing things and holding or giving information in the Owner's Manual too. For my wife's 2015 Mk3 the handbook seems to me to have been written by a very young German engineering student then translated to Chinese and from there to English. For the battery charger/maintainer, something I try to highly promote, you probably already know that if your car is a start/stop with associated start/stop battery fitted you'll want an appropriate battery charger/maintainer for regular use. As the air-con isn't used when the car is parked and as the Fabia (as all previous cars) is outside 365/6 I bought a couple of Pingi Dehumidifier bags and keep a moist synthetic chamois in the glovebox (but this is not the frozen north, usually). I'm surprised you've gone from a Japanese car to a basically German car, the German marques aren't the German engineering quality of the previous century. Good luck, you're doing the right thing by looking after the battery, particularly if you have start/stop as VW has even more involved and complex computer programs that don't like car batteries that are too low for their liking and that's not as low as most think.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back both times. Yeah very annoying, I found the diagram for my wife's 2015 car didn't match up to what was fitted . I find VW work to their very annoying ways with holding on to information others manufacturer's freely give out and include in their driver's handbooks but the newer cars have even less for the driver's to know.

A good use of this time, if you're not already doing so, is to read the Owner's Manual, and in future refer to it as required, to learn more about your car than many long term owners know. If you've not got the paper printed copy then you can download a pdf copy using your VIN or model (part) year. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I think it's a very good idea to check and set everything you can before you actually use the car and to familiarize with it, better now to be messing around with it than when driving on the road, modern cars are already fitted out to be far too distracting for drivers, better now to make mistakes and ask questions. IIRC (a rare event) you have a new car battery fitted so you can start the engine and get the engine and car fully warmed up, check with oil temperature gauge if fitted and not just coolant temperature gauge, whilst you test all the systems you can on the car depending on how long your drive is engage at least first and reverse and move the car a short distance perhaps. You can also do all the driver's checks you should do (and most of us forget to do often enough) do not trust the garage to have done so or done properly, tyre pressures can often be out (but allow for weather variances from setting). Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good news that you are sorted. Not the first time the Owner's Manual fuse diagram has been wrong, do you know which fuse number it was , it's colour/amperage for future reference? I forgot it was headlight spray, in the handbook for my wife's 2015 Mk3 it shows as - "34 Heated windscreen washer jets".

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Eugene, the following links take you to pdf downloads for the Owner's Manuals on each model by VIN or ('Previous') model and (part) year. Note for the fuses there can be more than one fuse or more than one possible fuse number and location on the box dependant on the model and/or equipment fitted. With the recent cold weather windscreen (headlights) washers and wipers have shown perhaps three fuses so do go through the whole lists for both boxes to be sure you can locate and try the fuse. Don't just look at them test them to be sure. https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be difficult on light and focus and angle. If you can wait until after all this Xmas and New Year madness (no I'm not a fan 🤐 ) you could order one of these dirty cheap endoscope (attachment(?) things to a "smart" phone/device?) which you could twist in and around the area better. Seen the cheap stand alone units on American videos but most car related stuff is a lot cheaper and easier to get in America. much of it made in China of course. 🤣

Was talking about this only this afternoon with my neighbour when I ordered what I thought was a set of springs on special offer to discover I'd got it wrong it was a single so I gave it back to the driver and had to cancel with the site, my neighbour asked who fitted only one side and I explained Dealerships and customers who insist on it. Last set of front road springs I fitted were proper rolled steel, you can still get them (for old cars at least) and they were not expensive could also be made to specification if required, I almost fitted modern (AreO bar) springs until a mate told me how often they break on modern cars.