nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeah, difficult to apply the normal logic to this as you are fighting against VW computer programing and PO (previous owners) wiring and probably the later is the worse for you but (to me) it is best still to start again at the beginning and go through step by step. At least now you have more info on what is on your car and the wiring diagram so you may be able to see how much it varies from factory set up. With electrics if something is intermittent you can think of poor wiring or connections or faulty item by the computer programs add another layer of complexity - or anger and misery as I see it. 😁 Keep your chin up old boy, toodle pip, until the next installment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you put your OBDEleven on again (which "all modules are unresponsive again")? Once things are back can you check how good your good battery is with the OBDEleven too?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @TSiTorque just remembered what I forgot to put - do you know for certain they've used 0w-20, have they told you this or is it what is written on the invoice?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No, well Dealerships didn't write the Owner's Manuals. Must admit I forgot. Toot, I meant there is a VW 502 00 spec 0w-30 oil available and I didn't really expect VW/Skoda Dealership would be using it or getting a deal on it, just trying to stretch to the 0w-20. I'm sure every VW/Skoda UK Dealership always uses the finest oils they can get their hands on. 😊

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @TSiTorque I can see a 0w-30, 502 00 but it's a good oil so more expensive than I would expect a VW/Skoda garage to be using unless they got some kind of deal to clear stock from the blender or supplier, I don't know if VW Porker Dealerships might use it, I doubt it. There's a 0w-40 but not by a blender I'd guess is used over here by the Dealers but I could be wrong I often am. There more to the oil change than even just the oil specification or it viscosity weight range but if you are leaving it to a garage they control the oil and other factors, you can keep the frequency/regularity of the changes though.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well it does but then again not fully, the "German engineering excellence" is rather restrained in the Owner's Manual, as well as on the cars, yes it's VW 504 00 for fixed servicing, this is from my wife's 2015 book (p153). - And in keeping with VWs or warning messages. - Possibly TSiTorque is like me more used to Driver's Handbooks that give more comprehensive information.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Surely there are some nearer European companies that supply Greece. I cannot remember if Millers Oils is out that way or not, good UK/British/English oil blender.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good new, progress. If it's a battery you already have then do remember to check and fully charge it as required, a good number of times I've been told "it's a good battery" and "it's charged" and they weren't. It might be best posted elsewhere but I have 'Report'(ed) your post so that a moderator sees it.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I expect you have already done so but also for the sake of future readers, have you used a bi-directional scan tool to see if the locks activate individually and perhaps narrow down any issues in the communications and see if there are any other stored or historical codes that might give a clue to past happenings?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough. A lot of the 70 and 80 year-olds like Valvoline oil in their engines at least, which is a bit disappointing with the UK owners that they don't use a more local and UK oil blender instead of an American one when the UK products are as good or better - same for you, is there not a more local oil blender you could use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @dcd well done, it's on view. I don't think it shows on phones or mobile devices perhaps but I don't know as I avoid such things as much as possible, I was fed up with mobile phones 35+ years ago and they seem to have returned to be as intermittent in use, plus now the batteries don't last and you can't see the screens in daylight. Do have a look on here to see if there's any info on the work and I've seen info on taking dashs apart for various models, for the Mk1 the 'Hatboy Harvey'(?) videos look very good not notice so many posted for Mk2s but I might have missed them. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You're laughing with that, lucky to have such a *professional install, bare wires terminated too you lucky lucky . . . * professional bricklayer

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No problem you're already well passed the very basic steps that I know (and copied) by there's a few of posters on here very good with electrics/electronics/VW programs. I can help with getting the info to the l/h/s wotsit - click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. (Had to go through the steps myself to check though.) You can also do a Search on here for info - from this page and on the drop menu 'SEARCH IN' tick the 'This Forum' option (rather than 'Everywhere') to limit the search to Fabia Mk2 rather other models. You probably already know that VW, and other German marques, particularly like over-complicated computer programs and the VW computers at least will make you suffer if the car battery gets below a level of charge and throw up perhaps all sorts of unexpected warning lights, messages and codes. VAG plastics are plastics Skoda or Bentley probably need handling with a bit of care at 12 years old and settled, you probably have access to those fancy trim tools I just have old spatulas my wife passes on to me - some of them Tupperware so very expensive old plastic. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Duncan, hi, welcome. You may already be beyond these points or they may not be relevant but as a lot of car servicing, maintenance often (but not always obviously) boils down to cleaning and lubricating. *Does your car have the interior temperature sensor input grilles at the side of the heater controls, if so, start by cleaning that with a small brush and/or a keyboard vacuum. *The other possibility that springs to mind is the exterior temperature sensor; easily checked if you have a trip computer and/or Climatronic. And of course plugging in a suitable scan tool to see what it shows. * Ideas taken from a KenONeill post in the Fabia 1 section. For future posts it can sometimes help to have more model/engine/transmission information as shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post (no idea what it's called the bit with your posting 'name'.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything Well you will still be OK because like the misbelieving old chaps in their 70s and 80s that own and drive cars from the 1950s today you have the option of using full synthetic GL-4 oils, a lot of them use an appropriate Redline oil as others recommend it to them as they get very good results from its use but there are other good GL-4 full synthetic oils around.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. We have been through this before the modern formula GL-5 gear oils are fine, if it is a very old formula GL-5 (going back about 20+ years as I recall) then no - BUT - a modern formula GL-5 will not do any harm short, medium or long term. You can also decide what weight range you want 75W90, 75W80 or even 80(?)W90 but just as an example - MOTUL MOTYLGEAR 75W-90 - "Suitable for any type of seal and yellow material used in gearboxes design." - https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20220616.pdf MOTYLGEAR_75W-90_en_FR_motul_45000_20220616.pdf You two are more misbelieving than the old chaps in their 70s and 80s that own and drive cars from the 1950s today, at least many of them are convinced to use proper (rather than just marketing term) full synthetic oils in their 1950s gearboxes. For many years I put GL-5 gearbox oil in my early 1980s gearbox in my 1973 car - no problems at all and sometimes it was driven in a spirited fashion.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. AFAIK by the law of averages it's very likely. Never thought of aftermarket alarm, I'm more used to cars without alarms.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you mean the V5C "log book" 'Registered keeper' they don't AFAIK, by 2011 the vehicle information should be pretty correct as that what the "road tax" is based on. Cars , their engines, platforms, transmission all have different names and codes used by different groups just to make things more difficult when looking up parts and other info. If you don't have the original factory info IIRC there's a paper label stuck on the wheel well in the boot that gives details or if you put the car's registration (number plate) into some parts suppliers, like Opie Oils as just one example, that should give you info too - but as with any info double and treble check it with at least two other (hopefully) reliable sources. You'll get on well with the VW over-complicated computers then and love the nerdy legacy VCDS diagnostics. Until very recently for 20+ years I was using cars from the 60s and 70s as my daily and other transport. The Germans marques for whatever reasons only had one reversing light but two lenses even the more expensive stuff. I was out in my neighbour's 1991 Merc today that only has one reversing light - and boy did the bonnet line seem low especially as the seats are higher than I was used to and I'm used to low cars. Even my 1969 British/English car had two reversing lights and that didn't even have an interior light let alone boot light, or hazards, or cigarette lighter, or mono radio, or . . . 😄 Only real advice I can give is have a good look at that Owner's Manual and refer to it before doing stuff and keep your car battery in a good state, especially charge as the computers and their programs are very needed and can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues if the car battery gets low even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. If you're a pro-pensioner you wont need to tinker with your car as you'll have a new car and change it every few years and before the warranty is out. 😉 😄 Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Only recently I sold my 1973 car after 30+ years of using "classics" (over-priced, over-valued cars) so I'm used to more detailed and straight forward Driver's Handbooks. I l-o-a-t-h-e-d doing anything other than driving my cars but I had so many bad experiences with people in the motor trade that even an idiot like I could sometimes do a better job and I have next to no mechanical aptitude and not the best attitude towards doing the work. Unfortunately things don't seem to be getting better with, some of, the people in the motor trade and with the modern cars. I just took it from the Owner's Manual ! 😄 I check but basically it's the same for my wife's model. With my wife's previous car, a new GM (Vauxhall) unfortunately, with folding tin-top I found other owners were paying Dealerships and auto-electricians for very simple problems with the folding hood and remote keys that could very often be solved by reading the Owner's Manual and following the remote fob synchronisation, for hood as well because that relied on the windows being in sync, and getting the hood back in sync. It was a 2008 GM Vauxhall so not the over-complicated VW computer programs (and just pre-Dieselgate cheating) but with the roof the battery "soft reset" might also be needed or useful. Even now some think there's more to changing, or charging, the car's battery than often there is, certainly with the Skoda model Owner's Manuals I've looked at so far, old or new higher level Mercs or BMWs are a different matter perhaps. With cars I have learn to discount nothing until you've treble checked it's not that but I think it might just be a coincidence, I could well be wrong of course as I often am.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The manuals for these cars I think seem to be often written by a Germain engineering student that then has them translated to Chinese and from Chinese to English, then possibly Swedish(?). I also found the diagram for the fuses in the Owner's Manual to be wrong for my wife's car - more German engineering excellence. 🤣 To be fair where trendy fashion items of the time, like headlights, were fitted that needed more doing they do say it's not DIY (I have no idea how much it is or is not, some bits on modern cars (2007 is modern to me) need the car dissembling and/or fancy bit of kit to sort out. Remember when those marvellous self-levelling headlights first came out and blinded you as they approached or made you dip the rearview mirror to avoid a seizure, "why does the car behind keep flashing us". 🤣 Again sorry about missing your post and making a fool of myself, but every cloud has a silver lining, brought me some goo humour. Battery change was most probably just a coincidence or only because of "wiring issues" already present. Plenty on here seem to use OBDEleven, doing a back-up file as is before doing alterations, you could ask for advice if needed. The German car marques seemed very keen to have very complicated computer systems and programs going back a while, probably for many reasons (and not just for Dieselgate :cough:) but personally I don't find them to be German engineering excellence, on three occasion now with my wife's car the "idiot" (or "idiotic" for this thread 🤣) warning messages and lights have acted for no good reason or too late, I don't trust them fully and not as far as I could (re)boot them. Hope you get sorted easily and soon, very thin wires put under stress wot could possibly go wrong. 😉 Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Martin, welcome, don't feel bad if you have made a mistake, just have a laugh about it, by coincidence I just made a mistake and the circumstances of my mistake have jollied me up, if you have made a mistake go the same way, no one got hurt and it can be seen as funny, if you want. As well as here a good source of information about this car new to you is the 'Owner's Manual', reading it, and referring to it will give you a great deal of useful information about your car. If you don't have the paper printed copy for any reason, or even if you have but also want an electronic copy, then you can get a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Also just for info, you were correct in looking at the car from the rear of it facing forward and saying the right, or right hand side (rhs) as with the steering wheel (for UK) being on the right hence right hand drive (RHD). This side is also sometimes referred to (in the UK) as offside, easiest way to remember this is that the passenger side is the nearside (N/S), the side nearest the kerb. HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I missed your last post, about loss of communication, so yes possibly broken wires. Have a look here for fuse locations and much more, and for my sake and that of other(s), I am not saying they are where you suggest. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Unintentionally I trolled my personal troll. 🤪 I am not bothered about it as it is poetic justice. I will leave you in his normally capable hands on such subjects as this.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Try this. - Turn the key BLADE in the lock of the driver door into the closing position and hold it there until all of the windows are closed remove the key blade reinsert the key blade and turn it to the closing position for about 3 seconds.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I was thinking that something like this would come from Europe, and it does not have to be on priority delivery. I am sure Mustafa_Samir can not be in any real financial hardship if he can afford a car for pleasure driving (in the UK 'joy ride' is taking a drive or ride in a stolen car).