nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: OP is in Switzerland so following info is for UK viewers The Halfords battery is expensive - IIRC(?) the Halfords battery is Yuasa(?) if so then at time of this post Halfords reduced to £151.99 and Yuasa YBX9096 from Tayna (other suppliers are available) £136.48 including delivery which is normally next day if ordered before 6.30pm. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx9096/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes but depending on how long and how much you use the car and its electrics it might have some effect on the overall battery life - we did and the Earth still turned but perhaps our battery's potential lifespan might be shortened however there are other factors like the users use, abuse and care of the battery. When I changed our battery I was told by a BMW technician that they just changed the battery on his brother-in-laws car and never got around to 'coding' it and many months later all was still fine, I can't remember if it was a car with evil BMW computer programs or evil VW programs though. Even if 'like-for-like' as put earlier definitely preferable to 'code' the battery and some say essential.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Blue is EFB, silver is AGM. AGM is better so that would be my choice but it will need 'coding' in whereas you might not need coding for a 'like for like' (EFB, 70ah) battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. https://swissbatt24.ch/starterbatterien/autobatterien/varta-autobatterien/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/42/varta-e39-silver-dynamic-agm-570-901-076-autobatterie-70ah Generally (subject to quality of manufacture) an AGM battery will be better than a EFB for start/stop particularly but that will need to be 'coded' in, not only the serial number but EFB changed to Fleece. From Tayna for UK viewers. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That is the battery varoom linked to, could you buy it from elsewhere and get it delivered sooner.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry my wife's car has just returned her to work so I can not compare with yours and I do not know what a Mader protection is or for but if the problem and error message was before its installation then obviously it was not the original cause whether it contributes to the issue now or not. I am not a big fan of the look of the Mader protection wiring though it may all be perfectly fine in installation and operation. I am curious about what is sticking out from the green/yellow and red/blue cables sleeving as that does not look correct to me and I can not remember ever noticing the sleeving being like that on my wife's, certainly not with stray wires protruding.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sounds like someone before might have done something, possibly wrong, if there is insulating tape. There are just two wires as I remember. People make mistakes, as in the photos I posted I think the battery post clamp has been over tightened, it needs to be tight so that it does not move at all but that looks squashed. If I remember correctly the start/stop function will not work if that plastic connector is disconnected, or damaged, perhaps the insulating tape was from a time when the plastic connector was disconnected to disable the start/stop function instead of pressing the button at every start up of the car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. A photo of your battery (in landscape as that gives more info) might help. Below are photos I lifted from here or the web (I forget) that show the awkward (to me) small plastic connector off the negative post clamp side of the battery, this is for the battery monitoring. You could check the clip is clean inside and fully located, though you should see a dash warning(s) if it is not.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Many years back I bought a small tin of Copperease that would have lasted me a hundred lifetimes but now it'll be ten-thousand. I was thinking more about this. - https://www.autotorque.news/the-aftermarket/technical-talk/delphi-does-not-recommend-the-use-of-copper-grease/ https://mintex.com/copper-slip-vs-ceratec/?lang=en-gbr

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. More effort than I'd give the car, and great longevity, well done. Just for info perhaps, If that's copper grease it's no longer recommended for (modern) brakes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Forget WD-40 Multi-Use for anything other than using it up on unimportant jobs. This is what I use and recommend as a penetrating lubricant, it works better and lasts longer (and smells nicer) than WD-40 Multi-Use - GT85 (formerly a British company now part of WD-40 Company). I recently got three cans from Wilco for £10 but obviously also available widely from elsewhere and at different prices (DIY, bikes, other). Shake can before use, hold upright, spray, leave to soak as long as possible overnight is good, penetrating/releasing agents always seem to work well when combined with patience.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Why did you change the headlight bulbs, that might or might not have some thing to do with the flickering LED DRL. Were the new headlight bulbs different from the previous set. Just replacing the LED DRLs may not be the resolve of the problem. You can the DRLs off via the infotainment menu. The warning light is doing its job by letting you know there is a problem with the light.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. They don't need to know but they do need to be trained and equipped with the information to easily look it up and pass on, this of course requires the Dealership and Skoda/VW UK and Skoda/VW to provide the information, easy look-up and training - but of course as many (most? all?) Dealerships in England (UK?) are well below this level and Skoda/VW UK and Skoda/VW don't seem to always be a lot better or perhaps even worse.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Where are you taking this 13v reading from and are you doing the test with a cheap digital multimeter as they can be inaccurate and unreliable.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Much of the MoT test is of one trained person's opinion and only relates to that one point of time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That might be a typo on your part and you mean 83,000 miles (?) Feb 2018 and the 81,000 miles just a mistake or wrong memory but you want consistent accurate information. If the lady has any paperwork, bills, receipts, MoTs, you want to ask to see them all and then put them in (reverse) chronological order, most recent at front of pile that way you can cross reference dates and mileages as conformation. 81,000 (or 83,000) miles in about 6 years is good average annual mileage but then 6,000 miles (or 4,000) in coming up to 4 years isn't so good particularly for a 2012 diesel and DPF so needs investigating. The gearshift might be an easy inexpensive (or no-cost) repair or it might not, plenty of info on here about transmissions and clutches. As well as looking at all paper and other records (like online previous MoTs) I would get a good level scan tool plugged in to it before and during a test drive. Some errors codes can just be from silly things like letting the car battery get too low for the computers or just not cleared after being resolved but it's all more info to make a decision on. EnterName and toot have given some good advice and I think you are right to be concerned with the car and getting a diesel of that age particularly if you're main use is only short journeys and/or less frequent use. Some cars can be sorted easily whereas others can have continuing ongoing problems, a death by a thousand cuts and some of them deep.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It would be helpful to know what year your model is and if you mean LED daylight or incandescent filament (ordinary bulb). - (Typed before AGFalco;s reply). I changed the daylight ordinary bulbs on my wife's car only last week, they're same as indicator bulbs P21W (382 in old money), got the hook tool out of the boot, turn the front wheels towards the engine to give more room to reach up in the wheel arch, pull cover off with hook tool, took quite a pull, reach in, slightly twist to remove bulb holder - full details in the Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models It can sometimes help to have the model details shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post, I’ve no idea what that bit is called, it’s the bit with your posting 'name'. I don’t think this info is shown on all devices to all viewers but you only have to enter the info once (and change as required) so worth the effort I think. The following helped another poster get the details on display. – click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. This might save you having to repeat some information and tell some viewers the details without having to ask or have them referring to a different something not with your car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As it costs nothing and is so easy to do why not try synchronising the key remote, all you do is press any button on the remote from outside the car and then (within a minute) open the door using the key blade in the door lock. That simple and quick, what's to lose. Full details in the 'Owner's Manual'.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No errors is not the same as no faults, off spec or something is wrong, no errors means the criteria to give error has not been meet or the error has or cannot be read, for many reasons. Computers and their programs also can be wrong or go wrong, it is one of the great delights of their ownership and use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just for info, the link Carlston has kindly put to go directly to the info wont work as I (don't) understand it because it no longer has some sort of digital/computer/program/internet(?) American biscuit so you have to go to the following link and paddle to the info via the model and part of year (or VIN for your own car). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I too heartedly (and regularly) recommend reading and refereeing to the Owner's Manuals even if they get more frustrating to use with newer models. The Owner's Manual for the Octavia iV (is that supposed to be Mk4) Issue dates 14.6.2021 and 29.11.2012 have the same as Carlston has put except they only have for 17" (and not 16") - "Rim size 6,5Jx17 ET46, Tyre size 205/55 R17. Only fit snow chains with links and locks that are no larger than 13 mm." 205/55/17 compared with 225/40/19 doesn't give very much extra clearance above the tyre. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well, I do not know (obviously), perhaps they are absolute stops in case the accelerator cable snap(?) but then wouldn't the engine stalk if the flap is fully closed(?). I can only see it as I put before but I do not know and am often wrong. Other Felicia owners must have the same mechanism or similar pity they are not around at the moment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It can sometimes help to have the model details shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post, I’ve no idea what that bit is called, it’s the bit with your posting 'name'. I don’t think this info is shown on all devices to all viewers but you only have to enter the info once (and change as required) so worth the effort I think. The following helped another poster get the details on display. – click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. This might save you having to repeat some information and tell some viewers the details without having to ask or have them referring to a different something not with your car. HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Perhaps the gap from the stops was not there at the three diagnostics or the computer set up was done with that gap so the computer takes that as the setting(?). I would have thought the stops are there for the accelerator to be at full rest for idle with the throttle plate as open as required for idle. What does the workshop manual say about the stops.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You can only set it as per the instructions as there is a computer involved, the computer wants what it wants, it is the master you are its slave.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. So cable adjustment is at throttle body end and for near enough wide open throttle and the other end of the revs is set by the magic electric box. 20 years of use probably mean things have worn a bit and adjustment required. I am not sure how much the sticky grease would imped the cable travel as I guess the spring is strong but it would not hurt to clean it all off. The end stops on the cable wheel and body of throttle are quite substantial so I would have thought been designed for a lot of use, idle stops I would guess but I do not know the unit at all. I did notice a slight bend in the cable and wondered if this signified anything.