nta16

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome, no problem but you have posted in the wrong forum, and less likely to be seen here by the general site population. You don't say what model you have but as my wife done exactly the same the other day all is fresh in my mind. Yes the alarm sounds and is noisy if you open the car with the keyblade (ETA: well it did for us and the same on a neighbour's car that only has a spare keyblade) but if you quickly put the keyblade in the ignition and turn it on your ears will thank you as will others around. The keyblade should open the door - unless your model operates different to my wife's but you may have been turning the keyblade in the wrong direction, VW go the opposite way to what I'd expect. Up to you if you carry a spare fob battery and small Xmas cracker screwdriver but it would be best to change the battery before it gets too low and to use the fob when you are near the car rather than a long way off (as I used to have to remind my wife). On my wife's fob there is a little red light on it so you can see if the fob is at least transmitting. Are you sure its a CR2025 (20mm wide by 2.5mm deep), I think that's what I put in my wife's fob. As far as I know the spare key without remote does not turn on or off the alarm, I can't remember if the alarms can be disabled (other than turning off interior (and tilt for towing?) For better answers than Google and me consult your Owner's Manual, read it and you will know a lot more about your car and its functions and odd VW ideas. If you don't have the paper printed copy or if you prefer you can usually download a pdf copy from the following link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Do check in the Owner's Manual if the fob needs synchronising after replacing the fob battery (yours may not but I do not know, best to check). You are best posting in the forum for your model (and mark or year) but if you say what you have got I or others can direct you (I am just an ordinary poster) or you can find it for yourself, I'm guessing you have an older model but I might be wrong. A good tip for you from me is not to let your car battery too low in charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough your car battery could still be too low and need charging and depending on your use just driving the car may not be sufficient to properly recharge the battery particularly this time of year. Good luck.

🤣 No, no, far from it. Best to just say I prewarn for a reason too boring to go into - but It'd be a total waste of money suing me. 🤣 🤣 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unless you go on a rolling road you won't actually know where and what power is at what speeds on your car. Which 10% UK road do you mean I might have been up it but roads like that I prefer to be unclassified and often they're single-track.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Bear in mind the engine probably won't be the only thing worn and less efficient than new on a 29 year old car. Obviously there are other considerations to this, tyres all at correct pressure, whole car (not just engine) fully service/maintained/ repaired, brakes and exhaust free, any unnecessary load (spares and heavy tools carried "just in case" and never used), empty roof boxes carried, empty bike racks, etc., etc.. How long the 10% climb is, wind direction, ect., etc.. I don't know the gearing of your car but wonder why you are approaching and climbing a 10% in 5th gear if you are likely to have a lorry or van behind you. Obviously you can go at whatever legal reasonable speed you want but you're helping to keep the bad stereotype of the old Skoda badged cars (I had 3 Estelle's in the 80s so know all about that). I would wondered f you're leaving your gear changing too late to maintain momentum on the inclines, that's what the gearbox is there for. On a flat road once you have got up to reasonable speed it takes a surprising low hp figure to maintain that speed if the vehicle is in reasonable condition, I'll leave it to @Thefeliciahacker to do the maths (with an S) and come up with a figure.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Again the Owner's Manual should be consulted as to what you might loose, VW's programs are complex but they're like say a Merc where you might loose more than you can be arsed resetting or not got the codes on old 'radios'. When I disconnected the battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia despite the book giving a list of four possible items it was only the time-of-day clock that needed resetting, I know some think as they have a 'top of the range' it'll have more important memory settings that can be lost but often they don't, consult the 'Owner's Manual' (personally I think it's a good not bad thing to take power away from the VW computers). From the 2017/11 'Owner's Manual'. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. IIRC generally if you order before 6.30pm you get it the next day. ETA: Don't forget to read the Owners Manual before changing the battery to see what's required and what might need resetting on the car from disconnecting the battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good points. 👍 My bad wording, I'll edit it, I'd expect/hope the 'Owner's Manual' or charger instructions would be consulted to check and confirm the charging requirements.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you had used a battery charger for the battery when that first started, or better still before that, and not let the battery get so low again you may well have got another couple of years or more out of the battery. From the 2017/11'Owner's Manual'. - I get the **** taken out of me on here for putting that the battery could be too low even if you can start the car and the lights seem bright enough and that a long low slow charge is generally better than a quicker higher faster recharge and just driving the car is often not enough to recharge the battery sufficiently and may even be discharging it more. Rule of thumb is if the battery has been run down slowly over time then the recharge should be as slow as possible and practical, if it was a fast discharge with something like leaving your headlights on when parked then a quicker charge might be OK.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Exactly the type of car use where the use of your C-Tek, or any other suitable battery charger, would help extend the life of the battery and avoid it going a bit too low so that despite the vehicle starting and the lights seeming bright enough the computer programs start to play up and may give all sorts of unexpected issues and perhaps warnings. You've been lucky to have the change before the cold weather. The very hot and extreme weather we had this summer wasn't good for the batteries (or charging systems) and will be reflected in an increase in the already seasonal increase in vehicle breakdowns and call outs and battery sales (many of them not strictly necessary). But you should be well sorted now with a new AGM battery and a battery charger to hand for future use when needed but only when needed as a preventative measure and not too often AGMs are fine at 12..4v). Like me you can lend your charger out to neighbours who have left things too long with their batteries or just made a mistake of leaving something electric running. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No worries I only knew because I still have four fingers and thumb on my hand hand to count with. 😄 With the year I take it as year of manufacture, this MY stuff confuses the issue, just marketing or if selling. Even if it was 6 years I think that is a poor and shows the factory batteries were at low cost to purpose. The later cars I can see owners (unnecessarily often) changing at about 3 years but at least the later cars have suggestions about using a battery charger where required but that does require reading the Owner's Manual which is against the law for Billy-big-*******s men.

I wouldn't worry about the 3mm as dimensions are overall and it's more important to have the correct fitting 'base hold-down' (plastic foot bar) that the clamping clip goes on to. 6 years old, so it's not for your "Model: Superb SE L Executive Year: 2018"?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Great stuff, many of those go at 3.7a IIRC, of course they do need to be used when needed and preferably before the battery is too flat, many forget prevention is better than cure and others think just driving the car will restore the battery every time. 4 years out of the factory battery shows how tight-fisted VW were and that they should have fitted a good quality AGM. The factory fitted battery, when done properly, should be the longest lasting as it's working with everything from new on the car and not used and worn for latter batteries. I thought changing at 6 years on my wife's car was very bad, though I could have made the battery last longer but as it was on my wife's car the hassle to monetary cost was too high to deal with.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Three year warranty on the Banner. I've had an Enduroline battery in another car and it was fine, for my wife's 2015 Fabia I put a Bosch (labelled, apparently Varta I was told) in and I might have considered the Yuasa. Whichever you buy you might get a longer life from it, depending on your vehicle and its electrics use, by also using an appropriate battery charger minder. This is just one example, other makes and suppliers available, 4 amps so slower than many others which is generally better for a better charge. (£23.49 inc. P&P off eBay currently). - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC804

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. To that I'd add carrying unnecessary weight, things like stuff in the car that's carried but not used (junk, tools, spares, undelivered items, perhaps partner or grown kids(?)) and things that reduce the aerodynamics of the car like empty or full top boxes perhaps.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Treat the gauge as just a 'gauge' and not an 'accurate'. Same for the car's own computer MPG figures, think of it as being more optimistic than pessimistic, or exaggerating a little rather than understate. As has been put a more reliable measure is to fill the tank until the petrol station pump clicks off, do not try to add more, zero your tripometer. Next time you go to the petrol station fill the tank until the petrol station pump clicks off, take the tripomter reading, zero if you want to repeat. If you want MPG then divide the number of litres by 4.54 (or 4.5 if you want) to get to how many gallons and then divide the number of gallons into the tripometer mileage and you have a more accurate MPG which is repeatable for comparisons. Unless someone else uses the same system in the same way take any MPG claims with caution and bear in mind any comparisons are only rough comparisons as there are so many variables.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well if it's an electric ultrasonic siren type thing I hope it's more effective than the cheap thing my neighbour fitted to front of his property to keep animals off his front garden. He fitted, but not set it up, just before going out for the night and it went off every time a car drove passed in the road or someone walked by on the public pavement and was very audile and annoying. As he was out I disconnected it from it's power supply and left him a note. Next day I went across to help him set it up properly and turn the audio off, it was too cheap to have any real control range and made for Canada where they must have much bigger gardens and worried about moose, bears and spiders. It was very effective at keeping bears away as we never saw any all the time it was fitted, totally useless at keeping other animals off his front garden though. The clonk of the switching was so loud that you could hear it walking passed in the middle of the road.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I don't know what Mader protection is but obviously an aftermarket item.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Remember the computer program is a diagnostic tool so most times you have to use the information given rather than taking it as an absolute answer. Look up the codes and see what is common to them as a starting point from the codes and how they might relate to each other. P0170 VW - https://www.engine-codes.com/p0170_volkswagen.html P0106 - https://www.engine-codes.com/p0106.html

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Does it also sit unused a lot and parked somewhere exposed and always in the same place, position and facing the same way. How bad it is now may also depend on how bad it was last year and/or MoT and how strict or leniently (within rules of course) it was inspected. My car was out in two winter days of very moist/damp/mist and then not moved for a number of weeks and come the spring servicing (farting about getting dirty and messy) doing the 6-month service work and checks I noticed far more rust than 6 months earlier and much more progression than any other winter or year. Perhaps the garage are laying it on a bit thick for some reason but perhaps it might be for a good reason or perhaps they just would prefer not to work on your car. I'd go for a couple more opinions as I've generally only had bad experiences of the motor trade and find many to be almost as bad as each other. Of course there are also bad customers, I know that too.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well, not too productive but hopefully some reassurance (I hope). Provided it is just a twig and not some bare cables someone has slipped up the sleeving (I have seen some strange stuff done with wiring and some times by professionals, professional what I am not sure). So as with the first reply you got from ApertureS if you have no issues on the car (warning messages or lights) then the scan tool application you are using is leading you astray about this. Photo taken with 2013Fiji (battery eater) digital camera, 3.2 Mega Pixels !!

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You might be right but to me it looks shiny, so good conditions or shampoo used, also reflective and copper-like looking to me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good points and accepted. ETA: Not aimed at you or anyone other than the car manufacturers. For the vast majority of vehicles' overall use thinking of these sorts of fuel savings is laughable - but something is better than nothing - I compensated by eating less until the coding was done. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. In my single experience you can just disconnect the start/stop at the battery post until you get the 'coding' done, and clear any/all error codes.

Sorry yes I originally put OP is in Switzerland and info was for UK viewers but events overtook me and the post was not completed and lost, will edit in now. I will look for info to help giff add in his location (later). I think there might be error codes, which will not be seen until a scanner is used, but not necessarily dash warnings, as far as the car is concerned it just a battery disconnect which you can do for various reasons and lights and warnings can go out with use of the car as the computers 'learn' things have changed/improved. The VW computer programs have their own brain-farts (not as many as me obviously) but they often sort themselves out or you 'turn 'em off-'n' on agen' in some sort of fashion. Personally I'd like to reboot them as hard and far as possible but I know they'd make me suffer if I ever raised a lip to them. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. VW's computer programs are complex, over complex, intertwined and over-intrusive in my opinion, so any aftermarket additions may cause issues add-on alarms systems particularly from what I have seen (I do not know, or say that the Mader protection is an alarm). My preference is to not only disconnect but to remove and make good any electrical connections from the removed add-on system as much as possible. I was not worried or over excited or upset by the Mader protection wires just that I would prefer the two cables were sleeved together as much as is appropriate, this would also offer further protection to the red live cable that is very close to the negative post clamp and take it further away from the post clamp. But those cables are insulated, the wires that I circled appear to be bare. If I get the opportunity I will photograph how the connection is in my wife's car for you. Good luck.