nta16

Clutch bled or possibly cable alignment for me then. Checking and topping up gearbox oil wouldn't hurt either, or my preference of a thorough change, same for clutch/brake fluid if required. It's going to be sunny tomorrow. 😄

Fair enough. I suppose the quiet click is the electric trying to do its work. So the usual checks, connection and activation of the switchlock, the latch and catch alignment, anything fouling those or the tailgate seal twisted or pulled or fouling. You could try clean and lubricating all as you inspect them. If you have an appropriate scan tool you could check the communication and power to and activation perhaps. I always like plenty of car (and keyfobs) battery power to also overcome or help stuff that might have got weaker. Perhaps others will be along with more and better ideas.

I'm not sure if I've understood what you mean but I'm not sure that is a problem, if the key is in the ignition. Others might know but I'd need more explanation. If I'm waiting for my wife to finish work and I'm sitting in the driver's seat listening to the radio, engine off but key in ignition, then I don't see here approach and she can't open the hatch door. I don't have time to find the button before she's put opened one of the back doors and put her stuff on the back seat. I was going to investigate which, if any, button(s) would unlock the hatch door but that would mean delaying departure and I'm probably only collecting her in her car because I'm driving her to drink. ETA: have you looked in the Operators Manual to see if there's anything or a setting in one of the menus, I keep meaning to but forget.

Yes, I think we're at cross meanings and on direct tracks, perhaps laser to wide beam. I didn't think the engine was even running in the last video, my comments were more general rather than specific to the video. Having owned a couple of Spridgets for a number of years I know when 1st crashes or needs double declutch (not that I was any good at that) and the straight cut 1st that was on my present Midget was very loud, a mate said it was the loudest he ever heard (probably needed better gear oil 🤣 the boxes were originally specified for engine oil) and he was used to hearing the 1st gears in the 60s. The excessive noise of the 1st gear was one reason I swapped the box, to the stodgy saloon Ford box, and the very busy roundabout less than a mile from home, plus 5th for motorway use. As for the on / in reverse, I don't keep up with these things but I thought some newer cars had synchro on reverse gear, probably not VW as the company's too tight, and I've got a feeling there might have been one with it in the past. Thing is if you have the bad habit of selecting 1st and reverse on the roll from say pulling or dropping out of a drive or turning the car around metal rods and cogs could still be spinning and if there's a clutch or box fault it could make it worse.

Double - did that make them operate better or worse and last longer or not and does that mean they're on Ryan's car?

At your age you'd probably soon know if it wasn't on 1st. But 1st and reverse will be more noticeable if the clutch needs bleeding or perhaps fluid change but as it's part of the brakes no doubt this has been changed more regularly. Even though my MG Midget is a 1970s car the original gearbox didn't have synchro on 1st, ancient for even back then, the 1st gear whine is distinctive and well known to those older than me as cars from the 50s and 60s were without synchro on first. And even in the mid and late 80s some/many BL cars didn't have a 5th gear but Skodas did.

I don't know the model but to give you a reply and encourage others to reply. What about you rear hatch/tailgate, perhaps seal? You can add your car details to you name badge thingy or post to give more idea in case it's model and/or age specific problems, such as I have - Fabia Mk3 1.2 TSI (90) SE (hatch).

No synchro on 1st for this model then? I think there's synchro on 1st on my wife's 2015 Mk3 and I still sometimes have to 'rock it in' to reverse or first but that might be all the computer programs fighting me thinking they know what I want to do, but they don't. I also thought some of these models (not Ryan's or my wife's) have synchro on reverse?

Personally I'd say from that video it's inconclusive as to the actual cause, others may think differently, which is fair enough, but as it's intermittent and not causing you problems and you're not going to look at it until better weather you already have the possibilities, bleeding the clutch being a strong possibility. If it becomes more frequent (and across the gears) you could perhaps note when it happens, engine/car cold, warm or hot, weather type temperature, engine running or not, handbrake on or off, car level or able to roll under its own weight, car moving or static. Thing with reverse, and first, you can sometimes have them 'off the cog' (or whatever the term is, I forget) so that could be in addition to your issue. See how it goes.

Sorry I could not find the story to quote here but it was about an owner that fitted the gasket and filled the engine with water ready to test the next day to discover when he went in his garage the next morning (the luxury of having a garage, I do not) the water had leaked out at the gasket. I did not know this until after the gasket was fitted to my car and thought the sticker was from the supplier as general advice. This related to a gasket size originally used for the BL Metro Turbo IIRC but popular for particularly over bored classic Mini and other models engines (BK450). To my surprise I found a photo scan I took of the sticker, which was really a small hand cut piece of paper clear taped on the outside of the gasket packaging, and posted it to a specialist MG forum (see below). ETA: note, the bit about the head studs relates to a cast iron engine and head.

@Thefeliciahackersorry, I have only just seen this thread I did not know of your woes. And I do not want to add to them, just giving some information that may not be relevant to your head gasket but just in case it might be. Two summers ago I had to change my head gasket and it was during our first lockdown so contacting companies was more difficult then. I had a black (yours might be green?) semi-tacky Payen and on it was a sticker stating that the coolant should only be added when the engine could be immediately run. I discovered it was a fault with the gasket that needed it I guess curing otherwise it would leak coolant and indeed I heard of a story where this happened. Now that might have only been on a certain batch of that one and only model of gasket (BK 450) at only that time. Unfortunately at the time I was unable to find Payen to contact as I initially thought the sticker looked like it had been added by the supplier as advice rather than the manufacturer. Those BK 450 gaskets were not available for a good while after that but that might just have been Covid related but I see they are available now. You are there with no thermostat fitted, lower temperature fan sensor switch and heater on full. Good luck.

@RickyG512as above but if you can I'd suggest disconnecting your battery and give as long, low, slow recharge as possible, that way you give the battery the best chance to fully revive itself. When I disconnected the battery on my wife's 2015 Mk3 the only setting it lost was the time of day clock. If you have to change the battery then the new battery is best recoded especially if it's not an exact like-for-like. If you want you can try the battery voodoo trick to clear the warnings quicker if you don't have a scan tool or disconnect the battery - but the car battery does need to have sufficient charge or these issues will return.

No worries, I can not post a name that is not already on display as I have such a bad memory, I struggle to remember the names of people I see in person every week (and I am not joking). I do not worry about anyone knowing my name, there is no difference in being nice or nasty to a real name or nick name as behind it is a real person anyway (unless it is a bot). I am not sure you can have a data breach on anything you openly post on a public site like this, anything you put can potentially be copied and held on top of what is recorded here. You can regret what you have put but rarely remove it. it can be taken out of context and misquoted so if you are ever unsure just don't write it. 😄

I don't know how long you've had the car you might have already dealt with what I'm going to put, or not like it, I'm relating to road only use, track stuff is an entirely different game. Before going anywhere near a dyno the whole car wants to be in a good state of full whole car servicing, maintenance and repair. Then run for a good while in various conditions to confirm the car is running well consistently and reliably. Best tuning for the car is regular and timely full whole car servicing, maintenance and repair, without this foundation it can be difficult to progress further tuning improvements. Best transferable tuning improvements are driving technique and training, usually totally overlooked for road only driving. Really it's about how the car feels, or makes you feel, rather than any numbers on paper or dials. No matter how much power you have in the correct circumstances you'll probably want a lot more but most of time you won't be able to use much of what you already have. If you fit a power output gauge you might be surprise at how very little you need when driving on a road and you're only using a third of that figure anyway. Each to their own, it keeps the economy turning over at least, good luck.

Comparing "print outs" or more likely photos of them taken and transmitted on a phone is a bit like these silly boys that send photos of their tackle, without any real sort of scale, like a tape measure, and then it'd just be figures without any real information to its use and under what circumstances, Sundials on an overcast day. 😄 The rolling roads used to be more about racing and higher end tuning, with even engines and other bits being run-in on them, could be many hours of work and use on them and repeated on other sessions which many of your average print out and compare or shootouts may not fully understand. The days of four hours or (many) more on the rollers setting up the mapping or testing a part or installation seem to have gone. The mentality seems to sometimes be the same as these (if they still do them) who's got the loudest exhaust, measured with a decibels meter (the tests and meter of dubious accuracy anyway). I got a rolling road tuner to test a set of HT leads to prove to him that they could make a difference, he tested them on a (IIRC grass track) BL Mini with an output of about 49hp (1250 rollers of course) as he knew how they would show any difference and to his surprise there was an improvement, less than half a nag but noticeable and proof that there could be a difference.

@TheFozzyto me as a NON-expert your trouble codes (not that you should ever just rely on raw error codes) suggest that a sensor is not sending information, or it's not being received, perhaps because the sensor is faulty or broken or a connection or wire or program from it to any computer or its program is faulty or broken. Combining with john510's post, is that sensor at the clutch pedal (I don't know btw).

@D.FYLAKTOS thank you. I had previously been doing that but I misunderstood its use and thought it looked a bit formal and unfriendly. I initially just wanted to post under my name but the site would not let me, I do not know why as I can not see that my first and second name appear to be live here. I think nick names (or whatever else they are called) can give rise to a a level of anonymity that can promote a more excessive behaviour of posting. I added a 'signature' to my posts with my name in but I realise not everyone will see this depending on their settings or devices. Cheers, Nigel.

I've been pipped at the, er, post, but here's mine anyway. Just as a ballpark comparison comparing like-for-like even factory standard cars is fine but even then you can't really compare one set of rollers too closely against another set and even if you have the same car in the same state of tune you can get different figures on different days. Same as with error codes and diagnosis it's a lot about the interpretation that leads to better results of different runs on the same day and sets of runs on different days. The rest was going to be as above - " if you're planning a sequence of modifications [or servicing/maintenance improvements or just alterations] then a rolling road can be useful as long as you use the same one throughout and you tell the operator that you are only interested in consistency for comparison and not the actual numbers themselves." ETA: though the numbers themselves, as a comparison only within your car, can be of use. In the same state and state of tune with use of the vehicle over a period of time the figures could rise but then fall and things settle then wear.

Some modifications can reduce rather than raise power figures, depends on what's been modified and/or how well it's been done. Also depends on whether real world improvements are wanted or ego-figures, some tuning places can record these for those that want/need them and for themselves.

That's a good idea to test to see if the seal is allowing water passed but if it works I would then wipe the grease off as it will hold dirt and grit which the hatch area may be prone to. I would clean the area and the seal again and apply either silicone spray or silicone oil to the seal only to try to rejuvenate it and give a film barrier against water getting passed again. ETA: - If you have it you might also clean/rejuvenate the seal by using something like Autoglym Bumper & Trim Gel. - https://www.autoglym.com/products/bumper-and-trim-gel If the seal is split then of course that will need repairing, or if the seal is deformed anywhere you could try applying heat to try to reform it after cleaning and applying silicone to make the rubber more supple. If above doesn't work reapply silicone grease to only the area of the leak. It might be that the seal also, or instead of, need pulling tighter to the car body by taking up any slack in the door latch and catch. Then of course it might not be the seal but it's a good place to start your checks. Good luck.

Thefeliciahacker, you were confused by this, this is what I meant. - Amsoil DOMINATOR ® Coolant Boost - "also contains a robust mixture of corrosion inhibitors" - which will boost the lower levels in a weak coolant mix. - https://www.amsoil.com/p/dominator-coolant-boost-rdcb/ g2785.pdf azf.pdf

Fair enough, I often forget to include the word 'not' and this obviously it reverses what I meant to put, usually I see this on reading again but not always. Cold start valve is a poor term and description it is a control as much as anything as it regulates the temperature. Great that you are getting it sorted and yes the TC-6 has proved very useful in this case, but I think you have it worked out anyway but it is good to have the reassurance of proof for yourself, well done.

I think the "Enhanced Corrosion Protection" of the Coolant Boost is to give the corrosion protection missing from the weaker coolant mix, in addition to the quicker warm up.

Good news. 👍 But I am lost, yesterday you put - "The antifreeze tester shown that my coolant is ''weak', it protects from -10'C". Today - "Today i added 200ml more from HEPU G11 pure antifreeze, according to the manufacturer of this product a mixture of 20% antifreeze and 80% distilled water gives protection till -8 'C". I thought you were happy with -10C and if the tester showed it was already there (and you had tested the calibration of the tester) why did you add the 200ml more of antifreeze, are you after -15C?

No I do not think it does in my experience. Many/most average car drivers will not know the nominal (or exact) capacity of the tank or look in the Handbook to find out. They may well know how much fuel they usually need to put in based on where the fuel tank needle is. Those that normally fill to full will do so and those that usually only put in so much or fill to a certain level on the gauge will know roughly how much they need to do so. In fact many people go by the cost rather than the quantity, at least over here and will say things like "if I put in £20 it should last me until x" or "£20 should get me x-number of miles" without thought to any variations of cost, driving conditions and environments. Many have absolutely no idea how to work out fuel consumption with any reasonable accuracy and will go on the fuel cost rather than quantity. If you do not believe me try asking a few 'average, ordinary drivers', some will not have the first clue and might even get annoyed or defensive at your question, or just make something up so as not to feel embarrassed, or other side just say they do not know or care. My wife always knows the current cost per litre of petrol locally, I do not, but if I asked what the car's MPG is (we do not use l/100km) she would have to work it out with a tripcounter reading, how many litres to fill the tank and ask me , as always, how many litres to a gallon as she can never remember 4.546 correctly.