nta16

Yes, but Oldhamer was synchronising the remote keyfob so should have pressed a button which would disarm the alarm. Such is progress! 😄 When you some good batteries in and all this will be over. Good luck let us know how you get on and if you find a solution to the alarm if no one posts it here.

Fine, just checking you know there's a hidden cylinder lock on the driver's door (I don't think there's a cylinder lock on the passenger's door of my wife's 2015 Mk3).

Duplicate link, no longer required but can't delete post.

Phoenixd, (also bear in mind two wrongs don't make a right) have a good look at the thread below as I think it is very relevant to you, but note Oldhamer put "It worked, apart from setting alarm off ..." I'm not sure why that was but I don't think it should have happened normally. -

Could be worse, the Porsche alarms used to go off by themselves including middle of the night and very early mornings, German engineering excellency. 🤣

Phoenixd, I don't know if you can cancel the alarm other than the interior and tilt button - but I did wonder (unless it was a typo) if using the driver's door instead of passenger's might save the alarm going off. Low charge in the car's battery can effect the alarm (and lots of other systems). I'd take a bit of care where and what batteries you buy as some seem to find they don't last, Duracell have been mentioned but who knows they might have been old stock or wrong size or even counterfeit. Check what size you need, 2025 are 20mm wide by 2.5mm deep and 2032 are 20mm wide and, drum roll, 3.2mm deep. Whilst you have the keyfobs open you might want to clean them appropriately the connections and button pad inside and out. I recommend, if you're not already doing so, or using both anyway, alternating the use of the keyfobs to even out wear on batteries , the key blades and cylinder locks, plus you then know where to find the "spare set". Don't use newspaper for cleaning, the ink is different now, any other 'Grandad' tips you need just ask.

Or other way round! Too late to worry, the Chinese and Russian Governments already have your post recorded, but the Americans lost it when they compared to the UK copy.

rootoot, does the Astonish anti-fog glass cleaner stop fogging? Decades back I tried a bottle of Rain-X Anti-Fog and it didn't seem to make any difference so I gave the bottle away. I've still got a little bit left in a bottle of Rain-X Rejuvenator that was only add one squirt per litre of screenwash back then, I've had that bottle for possibly decades.

I think you need reporting to child protection and RSCPA! 🤣

With my old car with open and wide necked filler tube, if I stopped at first click I am not sure if the tank would be even half full, about 13 litres, as I put before the tank capacity is 25.5 litres, I have to hold the nozzle out of the filler neck quite soon after starting filling otherwise the nozzle clicks off or I have to go so slow I would be there for ages. Yes I understand that but I am not sure if there are any other Felica owners that view here that know or have the same concern but someone might show up. I was thinking of tripometer and pen, paper and calculator for fuel consumption. I am not sure I would trust a car's own fuel consumption figures, particularly from more recent VWs (includes Skoda of course). 😄 "Classic" trip 'computer' (tripometer). -

Yes but that tanker delivery to petrol station tank which is underground and remains at a fairly stable temperature. The distance and speed of delivery from that stable temperature underground tank to your cars' tank there isn't going to be a great deal of change. Once in your tank it might be a different matter, as I've filled beyond the tank and to back of cap (no liquid or fumes returns to my tank) I can assure you even after driving a distance if the car is left parked on warm day and/or lots of solar gain liquid petrol can be wasted to ground. IIRC the energy of the fuel remains despite its volume change after the pump register, minus spillage I would expect. If you go to petrol company website or contact them I would have thought they have prepared explanations for such questions or be able to give them Bear in mind anything to do with chemicals and physics can get complex and on to very complicated, the very start is beyond me.

Yes that sounds like a filter problem but I'm no expert by a long way. Sorry I wasn't and can't help. In the late 1980s one of my Skoda Estelle 2 had the radio aerial in the rear screen heater and that caused interference when switched on, AM and FM then of course vgnils' location is shown as Oslo, Norway, as they were the first to switch off FM so going to DAB only, perhaps they had some learning issues, tends to happen at these type of events. Sorry I just realised perhaps you too are not in the UK, as you have only your site name on display. vgnils last visited the site 15 March 2018 but might still view the site or receive a notification of your post if he had that set up and still on the same 'address'. Hope you get sorted.

Llyod15, sorry, I meant to also put that obviously it might be the other way round and those DAB+ stations are the ones that are picked up well and it's the other stations. Or this has DAB+ or not idea has has nothing to do with your issue.

Llyod15, the DAB situation in Europe is different to UK and Norway switched off FM to go over to DAB the end of 2017 so perhaps vgnils issue might (or might not) have involved a hang over from this. If you have problems with certain stations they might be all be on the older (UK) DAB or all be on the newer (UK) DAB+, as the UK adopted DAB early we started and continue to use the older DAB. Or this has DAB+ or not idea has has nothing to do with your issue. See a list here, sorry I'm not sure if it's up to date you'll have to check as my tea is now ready. - https://getdigitalradio.com/23-national-stations-are-now-broadcasting-in-dab/ Norway’s FM Shutdown, Six Months Later - https://www.radioworld.com/columns-and-views/norways-fm-shutdown-six-months-later

Perhaps you're mistaken with the battery or those figures were for the old battery as they don't tie in with the manufacturer's datasheet (attached), which has 65ah, the CCA as 600A to EN1 but perhaps yours was entered at the Germany DIN spec(?) or your figures are for the previous battery. You'd hope so, and it was a reasonable price for including fitting. YBX7027_DATASHEET.pdf

Yes I include Skoda, we had 4 Skodas in the mid-80s to early 90s and I can assure you they made mistakes not with the oils and coolant as things were, like with BL, quite crude back then but the Skoda Dealers then were much smaller and friendlier and not, early at least, VW. Unlike BL the Skoda models got things as standard that were still extras on BL and other manufacturers and even things like built in radio aerials to sunroof or rear window that were on next to none other cars (available in the UK at the very least). Skoda's recommendations of oils for my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia can certainly be beaten possibly at same or very little extra cost, these parts are mainly VW of course. Skoda's quality actually initially reduced when VW first took over.

Well done. You'd hope it's just commerce, different companies have different overheads and stocking arrangements and different pricing levels. I do wonder if some suppliers just allow some algorithms or other programs to follow the pricing of others. Sometimes it can go be very obvious and totally mad. Some P&P really annoys me but as a customer you can chose not to deal with the company. I often try to get as much in an order to justify the P&P and include items just for stock, send the order off to later discover I've forgotten something important so separate order and double the lot of P&P. Doh. Smaller companies can be more flexible and add it to the original order if you contact in time but the bigger ones you can't talk the computer systems round.

Totally agree if they promise to do wonders but the good ones do not do that. As you know additives are already added to the base products such as fuel, oils and coolants but some have better additive packages included than others and are made for the general application of the product unless the product is very specialised. I do not know the Amsioil Coolant Boost, never heard of it until this thread so I have no real idea how good it is, Amsoil seem to generally offer good products but again I have never used them as we have good local blenders here. Well that depends, that is a very mixed bag. The manufacturer might say to use a certain make or product for commercial or contractual reasons rather than what is best available at any given price level. What they use from factory will certainly be based on cost, mass car manufacturer has very tight manufacture costings. Then the manufacturers often do not known exacting what they're doing and make mistakes or cut one corner too many, VW are a prime example with which oils to use in say their later gearboxes and change their minds on which coolants to use in later cars 12. then 13 but no not 13 but not 14 but 12evo. 🤣 VW are not alone of course, to my use only there is changing recommendations of gear oil with our long lost old friends of British Leyland who can not decide on which manual gear oil to use and some even suggest ATF, and Ford who specific a particular oil for their first 5-speed gearbox as it's just an adaptation of the previous 4-speed then over the years the particular specification becomes so wide it has little meaning. Also time and real world use changes what can be used, the oils of only 20 years ago, let alone 40 and 60 years ago for my old car, have changed and been improved, even the ones that retain or re-establish the same branding as 40 and 60 years are different and improved in their base and additives. Not all additives are the same and not all manufacturer's recommendations are or ever were the best - but I am a big believer in following the manufacturer's recommendations via the Driver's Handbook, allowing for the passing of time and use and abuse of the car, from the start at least until you know what are improvements from this and what are not. All hail, the good book, the Driver's Handbook. 😄

If it is the clear plastic container that still looks pretty thick to me. If so it just goes to show how much residue is left in the system from just a cold(?) drain. What reading did you get off the cheap antifreeze reading tool (sorry I forget the proper name) for the latest drain of coolant? I think it was in the Chris Fix video that he showed how to test accuracy and calibrate for it (within its limitations).

Yes the same with most garages over here and for engine oil changes, often just cold quick changes, labour rates are too high at many garages others just want or need rapid through-put. Same with repairs which are often more beneficial for the garage to do a fast less effective job and get the same for return visits. Sounds like things are improving, be interest to know at whatever antifreeze percentage (and Coolant Boost) you decided on, how this registers in your recording (subject to any other changes in driving conditions).

Sorry, no you missed my joke there, doesn't matter. I wasn't thinking of the GT-85 or silicone on the pins and sockets as such, I use electrical contact cleaner and Contralube 770 on those, more of cleaning, driving out moisture and lubricating for parting of the connectors. Unfortunately GT-85 now being one of the brands owned by WD-40 Company (along with 3-In-One) GT-85 gets the same wonder product do-all type of marketing, the one thing American corporations are not is shy. I found GT-85 in the 80s when I used to pushbike, before that LPS(?) 1 and 3. and PlusGas was in one of the blue labels then but as I put I used Rapideeze from neighbouring county of Leicestershire white drip tin with spout. I saw someone put they'd used this, I wondered if perhaps it'd an alternative to PlusGas and perhaps GT-85 for rusted parts but don't know anyone that tried it, Innotec Deblock Oil XS. - https://www.innotec.eu/oth/en//deblock-oil-xs/p1858

I'll take the "everything" as a generalisation about cars. I think you're stretching it a bit there with your explanation but I'm happy to take it as, and with, good intention. A group can get smarter as it grows in number (to give a feed line perhaps). Anyone can put something stupid especially me but the one thing you will never see or hear from me is that I am smart, though I do not consider myself to be generally stupid, obviously others may think differently. 😁 Thanks for your reply.

KeithCheetham, I won't mention the length of your post there. 😄 I was a big fan of of PlusGas but since it's been took over and in the black labels I don't know if it has changed or other overtook it or where better before anyway. Rapideeze used to be very good (UK) penetrating/releasing fluid but disappeared years ago. Have you tried GT-85 (now unfortunately no longer UK but WD-Company owned) this is good as a penetrating/releasing agent, longer lasting as a lubricant (certainly than WD-40 Multi-Use) and can be used with electrical items so would cover a job like this in one can. Has PTFE in which some people prefer to silicone. GT-85 - https://gt85.co.uk/ PlusGas - https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb

J.R. banter and ****-taking are fine but constant sniping gets tiring for me, and others, but if you think your constant bullying and intimidating of me will get you anywhere then you will be learning again because it won't. I won't reciprocate with banter or ****-taking to you as with your fragile ego that would be bullying on my part. Please if you don't like what I put try just to ignore it. J.R. and others, unless what I put breaks any laws only those that own and run this site can tell me what I can say on it, or eject me from the site, so unless that time arrives I will continue to put what I want to put and not be dictated to by other posters. You will see things repeated by me but to other posters and viewers it can be new and fresh there are more than just the regulars that view and post here and they vary in how often they view and/or post.

How can my ramblings drown out your good concise definitive suggestions. I try to cover more than one aspect in my posts and put a bit of explanation as James has with his original post. We'll you are not understanding what I put, I suggest you reread what I put in that post I wasn't having a go at you even if you're now having a go at me. So are you saying because I operate differently to you that am stupid?