nta16

Brucemagoose511, in the Owners Manual it has - 1.0 ltr. / 70 kW TSI engine - Output (kW at 1/min) - 70 / 5000-5500 rpm Maximum torque (Nm at 1/min) - 160 / 1500-3500 rpm 1.0 ltr. / 81 kW TSI engine - Output (kW at 1/min) - 81 / 5000-5500 rpm Maximum torque (Nm at 1/min) - 200 / 2000-3500rpm To me that would suggest that when and where it's safe to do so after the engine, and more importantly all of the car's other systems (brake, steering and suspension, all three include tyres, window/mirrors (lights)), have all warmed up then you can be less timid with your revs. For the turbo to be given a workout it needs to be within probably the torque range as above and nearer the top of that range. Before giving the turbo a workout you need the engine and its oil fully warmed which is best checked by setting up the multidot screen to show oil temperature, normal running range is not noted in your Owner's Manual but for my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI (90kw) its 80c-110c. It shows two dashes (- -) up to 50c and numbers from there on. This gauge might be useful to you to show actually how long the engine takes to warm up rather than looking at the coolant gauge rock steady on 90c. To give the engine a workout you want to be between 3,000-5,000 rpm for a sustained period of time and/or mileage with certainly bursts at the higher end of that range, forget any thoughts of economical driving. Going up a long steep hill is a good time to get the revs up as you will be accelerating rather than lifting off the accelerator pedal. The revs don't have to be about speed, no need to drive too fast and certainly not for any given conditions, I noted your typo of 80 instead of 60 (unless you meant kph). Obviously you still need to keep up with the servicing, in fact lower mileages at lower speeds will need proportionately more rather than less servicing and maintenance in many areas, As with GIGO (garbage in, garbage out) for computers it's SISO for engines, you want clean air and fuel going in, with all that the air and fuel travels through and passed as clean as reasonable (filters, trunking, pipes, hoses and sensors). This way what goes through and out of the exhaust system will be better for the sensors and cat which includes the engine oil and sparking. And that's all for one of the less important components and system on the car.

Hasn't or wont?

Yes I did as I didn't have warning lights, bells, whistles or dash orders to take the car to the dealers and do mot pass Go or collect $200. I don't think I even knew about coding the battery(!) when I ordered it or about the over-complicated, invasive and intertwined VW vehicle computer programs then but you probably do having a diesel. I did have the battery coded by a local member on here. For editing posts there's a time limit unless you join Freedom which also gets rid of all the advert after you login.

Assuming the battery you have fitted is the one from factory so is coded as such to the car then it will possibly be in as something like - Battery manufacturer: JCB Battery capacity: 68 Battery serial_number: 1111111111 Battery technology: (Fleece?) I was told the Bosch is a Varta anyway so you coluld leave the JCB code, Bosch is 70 ah rather than 68 ah, the serial number could be changed by one digit to 1111111112 and the technology is the same (AGM) - so it's all pretty close. Many say the car will learn your battery has improved and sort itself given time so no rush to code or even possibly no need, whether 2 ah more capacity is crucial to the car's battery computer program I don't know. At your battery changing if you have any lights or codes you could perhaps do the battery "reset" too and personally I always check and if required top up the new battery with a suitable (AGM) charger before fitting it. I fitted that Bosch S5 A05 to my wife's Fabia Mk3 in June and it was £127.96 including delivery then, I think there might have been a bit of a shortage at the time. HTH.

For your coolant if you can buy (or borrow) a refractometer you could see how strong it is and make calculations from there as to how much you need to dilute it and/or dilute it in stages testing each time. Or you could drain off the existing over-strong coolant and refill - and if you want to you could have the new coolant slightly weak to balance out and allow for the over-strong residue left in the system. For full refill you can measure the amount of existing coolant you have drained out, allowing for any spillage or other losses, subtract this from the dry fill capacity of the system and that will tell you the amount of remaining residue of existing over-strong coolant is still in the system and you can calculate from there.

I'm not sure that is so, cash3005's scanner didn't pick up any codes anyway but you'd think a correct scanner would pick up something with a "Ding, Ding Ding - Red symbol" situation and a deeper scanner should pick up historical information even after a battery 'reset' - well one did on my wife's Mk3. I thought the car/engine was running but with dire warnings about coolant at start up, if cash3005 was nearer Northampton he could call by and see what my neighbour's scanner has to report as by now my neighbour would have filled the missing spaces on the socket rails from the Xmas presents he asked for and wondering what to do now.

I cheated and just used Google Translate, some excellent articles and posts on ECU resets by disconnecting the battery and discharging all the systems, and on the computer program problems when the car battery gets too low, and best of all which GL5s can go into which gearboxes! ‘It’s Greek To Me’, Meaning & Context - https://nosweatshakespeare.com/quotes/famous/its-greek-to-me/

Shame, but nothing lost and perhaps unknown gains. Look like you need to check the sensor, if you can find the part number you might find it's table of resistance at temperature points that you can check with a multimeter. ETA: or see Ken's post, I took it your reading was from a warmed engine.

Well, first post and it's that there Xmas so . . . I must admit I thought 140, when, what was going on, how much more info can the scanner give or what can it operate. But I have been caught out with idiotic thinking before, so like many I might not be a complete idiot (can't ever remember completing anything) but sometimes I have stupid thoughts and do many stupid things (sometimes more than once or even repeatedly). Great to have a humorous response, cheers. 👍

I can't fault you on covering the basics but given the original post I think you can accept an amber warning for that, I'm not sure which one of us you think is the bigger idiot the OP or I, ya'd get better odds on me. 😁 (Don't let me down cash3005!) Totally agree . . . altho' I'm surprised you didn't tie it in with a red herring! 🙃

This was covered in another thread so I'm just repeating what I saw there - CR 2055 is 2.5mm thick, nominal capacity 165 mAh CR 2032 is 3.2mm thick, nominal capacity 220 mAh. https://www.batteriesandbutter.com/coin_batttery_chart.html It also pays to read the Owners Manual about changing the battery as one fob has "› Hold any button on the key for about 5 s." between removing old battery and fitting new, if you want to know what I mean RtM (read the manual, I left out the 'F'). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/models

Doesn't your remote have - "Warning light for the battery charge - if the warning light does not flash when a button on the key is pressed, the battery is discharged." ?

If you have been losing coolant obviously that needs checking and sorting. depending on the scan tool you have it might not tell you too much anyway that you don't already know. Just in case you have another issue, or it not helping with the issue you have - do make sure your car isn't low on charge , check with a battery charger or multimeter as a low battery can cause all sorts of strange happenings. On the same thing try this free, quick and easy thing to see if it helps - I would give a battery a recharge whilst disconnected, recharge for as long as possible and if possible at a low rate. Neither may work but it is better to have a well charged battery than not and if neither works what have you really lost. -

Ramisarheel, is your car battery well charged and not at a low level, checked with battery tester or multimeter? When the gearbox oil was changed 5,000km ago was that the first time in 226,000km or was it changed regularly and at what thousands of km? Did you keep the old gearbox oil? Do you know anyone with a higher level scan tool that could not only check for error codes but also use the tool to actually change gears with it as it is being driven? Try this battery trick to check it is not an electronic error. -

Jinjawoo1990, perhaps if you could post up some good quality daylight photos (horizontal landscape please to get more info in) of the gap with hatch shut and photos of the seal profile and latch and catch some here that know the model (so that excludes me) might see if there are any variations from factory or usual.

The thought crossed my mind but Xmas can be depressing enough without loading anymore depressing thoughts and if the door or seal was fitted wrong then the catch and latch (which is which?) might be stretch to accommodate, I don't even assume the catch latch is factory, strange and unknown and unrecorded things can happen to a vehicle during its use and life.

Or it might be the start/stop needs full control over the blower motor and didn't think it had it, the VW programs are over-complicated and very invasive especially the start/stop program - try that battery thing above and make sure your car battery charge never gets too low and upsets those VW computer programs.

You could spend hours getting the door worse than it was the perhaps better or back to where you started, the door could be out of true or the car or both, the damage to roof might explain it or the description of damage not comprehensive. As I put personally, if the door shuts well and doesn't leak or cause any other problems (trapped, frayed wires or wotever) it would have very low priority with me for the reasons you might be discovering but if you've improved it, great. For the bulb being alight, if you've not got a scan tool try the following quick, free, easy thing, if it works, and it might not, great, if it doesn't work so what, what have you really lost trying, I know you disconnected the battery but for how long and did you also try the touchy bit. -

Then there must be a reason for this as it's very doubtful it left the factory like this and you'd hope it'd never pass a PDI like that so it might suggest the hatch catch latch has been altered, is there a new or different seal fitted to the hatch aperture perhaps.

No and I've never dealt with even garages, or mechanics IIRC, in Wales or Scotland that's why I put England, I've dealt with a dealerships in the countries of Yorkshire and Lundun but as far as I know they're still officially England so far. 🙂

Not really, my wife would have said if there was actually a blow and how far forward or back it was - and the colour of the wall. 🤣 She identifies when things like brakes, exhaust, engine and wheel bearings are getting noisy, decades of running old over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics". Many years of listen to powerful hi-fi set ups in a small room probably didn't help my hearing either.

No matter what car you buy unfortunately in this country you often end up dealing with the English dealerships and they often have decades and generations of poor service attitude built into them, some places treat their customers like something they trod in. Even the best cars, proper Japanese cars, have English dealerships in England. Yes I too generally have a very low regard for English dealerships from decades of personal experience of the motor trade generally.. I'm old enough to have bought Skoda cars before VW took over (when VW initially did the quality actually dropped) and the Skoda Dealerships were small and much more friendly and honest as they really did want and need your business.

Was you parked with the car or exhaust tail pipe near a wall or building as the exhaust sounded a little as if there could be a minor blow or it may be that is just the normal sound and the recording and playback may it sound different, or it is just me and my ears. For checking out for this thread fair enough but about 5-10 seconds after starting to check all is normal you want to drive off as you are wasting fuel and not getting the systems running to where they normally operate, you want the warm up and driving to be brisk to get to full operating temperature as soon as possible with reasoned use, not going like a bat of of hell but also not dawdling and labouring the car.

Yes and perhaps if you can get a proper Japanese made sensor it'd be better and last longer, do not believe all German engineering is good, it is often very much overrated.

Yes it sounds irregular so perhaps with road undulations and could be hatch catch latch. Why not cushion your phone from vibration and secure it to the hatch panel near the latch catch and record, then repeat on the same bit of road next to rear wiper motor, you don't even need worry about signal, though you'd be better with none as Sod's Law someone will phone whilst you're doing this - use one or even two of your burner phones instead.