nta16
FREEDOMLite
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Everything posted by nta16
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If it's the hatch catch or latch then sit in the empty boot with an ear resting on the soft part of the hatch door panel whilst someone else drives you along a private road or car park then you should be able to tell if it's that or not (and if it might be rear wiper motor?).
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Have you tried either tape or thin plastic tubing on the bar part of the catch (or is it latch?) to increase the diameter a bit for more solid attachment - be careful not to over doing or make it so it doesn't open or bits jam anywhere. I expect you've already checked the all parts of the catch/latch/lock are are firmly fixed - or you could try adjusting them so the catch together more firmly.
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The video is too short for me to count how regular or not the noise is but others might have better sense or idea(s).
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Have you checked rear suspension fixing points and suspension parts and components including wheels and tyres? Have you tried going down a rough surfaced road and a very smooth surfaced road to see what difference there is?
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Yes it does. I kind of sounds like something with going over a hump in a circular motion, or like something tethered or can only go so far before being held back or dropping back but I can't think what. My mate got a van recently and discovered there something sliding about in the roof lining just above the windscreen which might explain why the radio was kept on with the test drive, something you should never allow.
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This video is about 10 years old and you can get or make up cheap versions of the tool here. -
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whatever above is it's not working, perhaps if you put the link address(?). Often sound travels (like water leaks) and where you think it is it isn't., had that a few times. A guess exhaust or exhaust hanger or nut/bolt/fixing a bit lose to something else.
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Ask your Grandad - Batchelors, or you might know it by Disturbed. -
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Jinjawoo1990, just to let you know whatever your video/audio link is it doesn't work for me at least, and didn't in your other thread, it's all Simon & Garfunkel my end.
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Adrianul, try adding your Rapid 1.2 TSI 65Kw (trim level?) (2015) and other details to your profile details so that it shows on every post, see mine as an example if it's shown to you, and the car details to the thread title you put up and people know where to start from if answering.
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Possibly but not necessarily might depend on how quick and if full discharge is done it is simply the very high level tech of "turning it off and then on again". Depends what the problem is but no it will not resolve all issues and an issue may return if ECU reset was not effective against it. The idea is it is free, quick and easy to try and never assume because there is an issue you know about that there cannot be other issues you do not know about. Totally agree, to me this is another very basic early step and part of the clean and/or lubricate that cover much of servicing, maintenance and repairs on cars, it is also often quick and easy to do and virtually free, I would use electrical contacts cleaner and if required careful brushing.
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Yes you said before, there were still had codes on my wife's Fabia Mk3 after they'd been wiped by a lower level scanner let alone having turned the engine off dozens or perhaps (I forget) hundreds of times. All's well that ends well.
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Yes I should say as it's part of the work to realign the road wheel - they must have took a left turn route to road test your car after the work. 😏
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You are joking? Good but did you or the garage try swapping around with another coil to check the fault was the coil or to the point of the coil? Yeap that might be the end of if you're lucky or the raw code was it or was checked that it was it. Forget about it and keep driving.
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HappySkoda, a mate rang me today because he needed a hand pushing his car back into his garage with difficult access. He was with the car waiting for recovery on the road. It is a 1996 (year) English sports car and has only ever broken down once before in his 24/25 years of ownership (fuel pump IIRC). Before he got back home he rang someone he knows that deals with engines and diagnostics for race and track cars (including ex-F1) this chap told him what to try, if I had told my mate the same he would not have believed me and understood how it could possible help. The suggestion made by the chap that deals with engines and diagnostics for race and track cars (including ex-F1) was another version of the following. - Doing This Will RESET Your Car & Fix It For FREE -
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Heavier braking will wear the brakes more but I'm not sure you'd get that much extra wear on the drums as the shoes shed but I'm no expert you'd be best to ask a manufacturer or specialist supplier. Vans, truck, buses and trains use more braking and brake manufacture and specialist suppliers would also supply to theses heavier users so would know their onions. How often do you or others change brake drums normally? My old drums had the size and wear specifications cast on them from the days of, forget the word now but say cutting them back to use, and brake shoes are still relined I think. You could perhaps go wider shoes, and with also better braking material but that would depend on your drums condition. There still are a very few engineering type companies left in Britain but they do sometimes take seeking out, places that still make things like proper steel road springs (for cars, trams, trains etc. to correct original specification or better. And I think a few places that know about brakes but all the links I have are for "classic" British stuff, but try the following for information and possibly purchase, I personally find were possible an actual telephone call (landline to save all the "hello" "can you hear me" that has returned to mobiles) or even personal visit. These were just first two from quick Google search there are other https://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/ http://www.bondingandreline.co.uk/ Cheers.
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And you may well be right but we have all been caught out by assumptions and it always pays to start at the basics before moving on. Then of course there is the geographical location which may or may not influence purchasing decisions. 🙂
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Surely what should be looked at initially is the condition of the existing brakes, including fluid, and the tyres. Brakes and tyres as they age can lose efficiency, let alone with use. Then perhaps move on to better brake shoes. The front brakes will also need to be good condition and balanced with the rear, possibly better pads fitted too, I do not think drilled or slotted discs are much more than fashion items on road cars generally. The heavier use will require more regular maintenance and replacement of parts of the braking system which includes the tyres.
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Personally, if the door shuts well and doesn't leak or cause any other problems (trapped, frayed wires or wotever) it would have very low priority with me. The boot leak needs sorting and there are other checks I'd put first - brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety and driving electrics and glass (widows and mirrors, so sorting leak is in with that). Engine in top condition is later and door shut a luxury. 😄 I wonder if KingRoach has a partner that will climb in the boot to find the leak like another poster, that was great and possibly a sign of early times together, after a few years and decades you just get' the look' at such suggestions. 🤣
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It is not all bad at least you have plenty of swimming pools. 😄
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Having a British Leyland product I noticed the door seems to me in that photo to be reasonably flush for shutting at latch comparing with rear door, assuming rear door is fitted well or reasonably, but slightly dropped (or rear door is slightly raised) so I wondered about fitment at hinges but there could be a few contributing fitment errors. Perhaps the top seal is also fitted wrong but I've no idea if that is actually the case. If it was a BL Mini I expect part of the body shop work would include dropping the window and putting a slight contour bend to the window frame. 😄
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I accept I made a lazy quick generalisation in a hit 'n' run post I was thinking of possibly poor wiring or protection from possibly poor repairs to the vehicle, and perhaps something with a rear light cluster but Cocain's video would cover that anyway. Apologises for being wrong and the correction is taken in good humour.
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For the light bulb warning, that might be connected to water but normally water and electrics mean a short and something blows. Does it show for something like glovebox light (if it has one) or other small light like rear courtesy or boot lights(?). Again perhaps a scan tool might clear this but I'm not sure about that especially if it's a broken wire or connection somewhere.
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Also as you've replaced the cabin filter you know where to find and remove it so just check it and around there and the heater inlet for water getting in.
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See Cocain's video. -
