nta16

2017 1.0 TSI(95ps)SE L (s/s) Estate 5d 999cc 94 BHP, what was the gearbox on that, 5 or 6 manual or DSG? 2018 Skoda Fabia 1.0 TSI (95PS) SE (s/s) Estate 5d 999cc, what was the gearbox on that, 5 or 6 manual or DSG? A spread of mileage on the two, still below "average" 10-12k miles per year so perhaps more town use and or drivers that ride the clutch, replacement clutch falling apart isn't good though, is it p1ss-poor parts quality and/or other issue on the car(s). Lots of p1ss-poor aftermarket parts about and counterfeit stuff plus the VW (VWŠkoda) parts aren't always great. I very, very, much doubt a 2017 or 2018 Octavia would be as good as a 2015, 2008 or 2007 Octavia but then a 2017or 2018 Toyota or Honda won't be as good as a 2015, 2008 or 2007 Toyota or Honda - but not heard much about clutch failures recently on here for 2017 or 2018 Fabias other than for the 1.0 litre MPI with 5-speed manual. Bear in mind I'm not a VW fan so don't defend them when and if they're at fault.

Hi, welcome. What a waste, and doesn't do it a lot of good in some ways, surely you must some dry winter days even in West Yorkshire. Good luck.

Info on finding engine code on/in the car. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497987-engine-code-and-why-its-useful-to-know

Until 2-3 years ago I had a 1973 MG Midget for the previous 16 years which was from the start my one and only car, used all year round including winters, (ETA: and cars sat outside, no garage) it was one of the various old over-priced and over-valued cars called "classic" that I ran for 30+ years also using them as dailies, work, commutes, holidays in UK and Europe and for club events. I too don't have a "smart" (they're not) phone but have had to put up with the failings of mobile phones since the 1980s and TwatNavs since you had to wait and watch for the satellites to appear on the unit before it could be used (at least three out of five IIRC). Far too many "assist", "aids" and features on cars made this century and the newer they are the worst they get. BUT - the basics remain the same - IF you actually used your MGB up until 2010, and it wasn't like most MGBs where the owners only drove them on a Sunday and to a local show, then you will know about driver maintenance and servicing and repairs. And if you're not of the generation or macho mindset that reading instructions was unmanly (non-macho) then you'll know actually reading and referring to the Fabia's 'Owner's Manual' can help prevent unnecessary and expensive visits to the Dealership, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. Of course, it won't prevent manufacturer's (VW) balls-ups, design and build compromises and/or poor quality parts. As with the MGB the Fabia will have details about the car as well as on stickers in the car or using the registration "number" most car part places will give you details of the car, engine code, gearbox type and possibly type, etc.. Your 10 years with an Octavia misled you into believing a later Octavia or VWŠkoda model might be as good but reading some posts on this site, particularly the Fabia section would have shown you differently. Even Toyotas and Honda aren't as good as they used to be but German marques dropped any really good quality "German engineering" from around the start of this century or before with Mercs. I am NOT a VW fan but I have to say just generally the Fabia isn't a bad car but it could be a lot better if it wasn't designed and built by VW (VWŠkoda) in the mid-80s to early 90s when you might have been laughing at the Škodas, we owned four of them and the quality actually dropped when VW first took over back then. For a while at one point the VWŠkodas were better than VW's own name brand so it seems VW might have dragged the quality down to save he embarrassment of the "cheaper" brand being better than the "better" brand. Was your Fabia a 1.0 litre MPI perhaps, with perhaps the 5-aspeed manual gearbox or a TSI engine or dirty diesel and perhaps with a fabulous DSG gearbox? Give us more details and we might be able to help with your current problem and set things up for retaining or selling on.

All very bad. Which clutch are you referring to, which gearbox, any double mass clutch or flywheel to it? My personal thought/advice is If you must buy a 2018 or newer car then best avoid German marques, some older VWŠkodas or even perhaps VW might be alright if you must have a German marque, thought pre-2005 for VW might be better.

The tiny bit I read seems to be full blown, full fat, all out VW arsery speak, I've read, willy-waving acronyms for one-upmansh1t on traction type control thingymajigs to suit some Aldi, Porschaa, GTI types. As soon as I see 'VW Golf GTI' about such things the clingfilm of depressiveness envelops me, the VW bit is bad enough to start with. Must be Xmas as my mood and tolerance has improved. 😁

Sorry, thanks for letting me know, I thought I'd checked the link, obviously not, and I've missed edit, so the quote just above has been linked - or use this. -https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-eurocars/vws-vaq-diff-explained/30560 ETA: I've check (twice) both links work (at those moments, on my machine, checked after deleting 'History' on my browser, twice).

7.7L/100km = 37 m,pg (UK,, imperial) 6.3L/100km = 45 mpg (UK, imperial) 10.4 ltr/ 100 Km = 27 mpg (UK, imperial) https://www.omnicalculator.com/conversion/fuel-economy-converter

Often forgotten or ignored If your HT leads are very old also consider replacing them as they're not expensive for a set - but don't buy inexpensive Chinese, or elsewhere, crap made ones.

Steve, that type of 'Owner's Manual' I find a right PITA but there might be a version of it in the car's Infotainment menu but how can you be in two different menus at once to follow and do the instructions, AFAIK you can't, same with doing stuff on other computers, such is "progress"! I prefer the paper printed version as you don't need a computer, wi-fi connection a battery and can see the pages in daylight even in very bright sunlight - but you have a 2021 car so you have lots of other "improvements", "assists" and "aids" which you just have to get used to or switch off as many of them as you can (every journey for some). Personally I've always found phones in cars to be a distraction, often for the driver even if it's hands-free. When I had a hands-free kit at the start of this century I kept the phone in the boot when I was driving. 😁 All being well for one phone this should be a one mug of tea (and perhaps pee) operation but don't start if you're not in the right mood if you even look at any of the computers wrong they'll make you suffer.

A good idea to clean and lubricate the window runners. See from 5 minutes 11 seconds, the section called 'Drivers Window' of the video below. GT85 can be used instead of silicone spray. After cleaning and lubricating the window runners try the reset as here - If the window stops a few centimetres down from the top you may need to read up on the Force Limit(er) in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Let us know how you get on. Clean and lubricate video here, see from 5 minutes 11 seconds, the section called 'Drivers Window'.-

I've just had a look on the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' site and your car being a 2021 it has the online version rather than a downloadable pdf version. I assume (always dangerous) you get a paper printed version with the car that you can look at too. Otherwise you can take a laptop or tablet to the car (subject to wi-fi reach and items battery remaining) and work off that. Do one phone at a time to save complicating things. Your unit is 'Infotainment Amundsen' so we have a start. VWŠkoda site for their free 'Owner's Manuals'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models In the 'Owner's Manual' click on 'Infotainment Amundsen' section and then click on the 'Telephone' section (under/in the 'Infotainment Amundsen' section) then click on and read the 'Conditions for connecting a telephone with Infotainment' and see how you go from there. Remember when doing anything electrical on the car do make sure the 12v car battery is in a good state of charge, run the engine if needed, also make sure the phone(s) has a good state of charge and the Bluetooth is enabled and working on the Infotainment and phone(s). Other members will know a lot more than me about modern "smart" (they're not) phones and the various versions and what's required with them to get them working in the car. Let us know how you get on.

You have my sympathy on both. Thanks for that Steve, a SpecSavers special. 😁 Well you have eight real buttons (thank gawd for you) and top right one is for TwatNav so it's the full fat unit called summat like Amsdum IIRC, colourful virtual(?) Telephone button so hopefully things are there to work. I'm extremely lucky as I don't own a so-called "smart" (they're not) phone so I'll make a pot of tea and hopefully look at the 2021 instructions and return hopefully with some info (perhaps), in a bit.

Hi, welcome. Have you followed the car's 'Owner's Manual' for any resetting/synchronising of the window? Free VWŠkoda pdf downloads in case you don't have the paper printed version. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Otherwise you could have a look in the Superb Mk2 section of the Superb sections. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ HTH.

The information is freely available to check what these people (or anyone else including these often inaccurate AI systems). The following information is in other post(s) on here too. From the UK Government website. - "Important E10 information The E10 petrol check has been created by the Department for Transport (DfT) using information supplied by the European Automobile Manufacturers' Association and European Association of Motorcycle Manufacturers. The information is subject to change and we cannot guarantee its accuracy. If your vehicle is fitted with replacement parts this will also affect its accuracy. DfT and its partners will not be liable for any damage to your vehicle as a result of you using this service. It's your responsibility to make sure you use the right fuel for your vehicle. Continue" "Škoda E10 petrol is cleared for use in all ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exceptions: * Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001 * Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994. NOTE: If your vehicle is listed above you should continue to use E5 petrol. If you are unsure please contact your local Škoda dealer." https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/en The petrols in the UK are either up to 10% or up to 5%, the up to 5% are also higher octane but also container a higher cleaning additive package - all three elements are helpful to the older engine designs and builds and UK winters are now mild, wet and damp. petrol.pdf ETA: the potty POTUS has signed us up in the UK to help with subsidise some of their farms and probably the up to 5% and up to 10% fuels will get nearer to their top figures of ethanol, that is 10 and 5%.

Don't rely on that too much in the future the potty POTUS has signed us up to help with subsidise some of their farms and probably the up to 5% and up to 10% fuels will get nearer to their top figures of ethanol. You must have the estate and/or the 2016 cars are a lot better than the 2015 to do any sort of performance driving even within its limits, to lower the speeds and increase the fun increase the tyre pressures to "Eco" setting particularly on factory Nexen. My wife's 2015 (hatch) had 10k-miles on it when she got it and still on factory tyres without edge wear but perhaps they balls'd things up later. Decades back Porche ball'd something up with the suspension on one of their much more limited range of models then so Dealership mechanics were given loads of training on correcting the balls up on their customers car and IIRC they had all the gear so it was the place to go for setting up the cars. As you've put a well set up car makes all the difference but then the VW suspension parts are the best, hopefully you will avoid the clonking and "misting" front dampers if not fully at least for a while longer. You might still get the leaking back door(s) if the car ever sees heavy rain (a fault from the Mk1 on apparently). If you have good reliable places you can take your car then you are lucky so stick with them for as long as you can. There's loads of info on Mk3s here, 2016 avoids some of the issues with later cars (all makes and models). Good luck.

Tank and other capacities tend to be nominal (not exactly spot on) and relate to something when it's new and no or little use not 27 years of use and possibly abuse and neglect. A metal fuel tank can be dented reducing whatever it's real capacity was anyway, plastic liner sucked in. 42 litres can't be 11 UK gallons as one gallon is 4.546 litres as I put for calculating mpg. You have calculated to US gallons not UK gallons and despite what some Americans may think they don't yet own the UK so we are free to use UK and European metric measurement systems. 42 litres is 9.24 (my rounding of figure) UK gallons. But you tank may not hold 42 litres, it may hold less or even perhaps more but that is more doubtful. Never try to overfill the tank and filler pipe. If you run to a 40 litres fill then you are well into the bottom of the last quarter (10.5 litres nominally) so the over-complicated VW fuel gauge may be inaccurate (at that level of fill at least) and/or you might be overfilling the tank and filler pipe. Despite VW making the fuel gauge unnecessarily complicated, especially for 1998, you should still use it as a "gauge" rather than an "accurate", that is don't fully trust the swing needle position or any figures (same with figures and "facts" you get from computers) always verify the accuracy or approximate accuracy. The fuel gauge in my wife's 2016 VWŠkoda has never been fully accurate. The most reasonably accurate system to check mpg on your pick-up is to follow the procedure I put before but you do need to have a reasonable and consistent idea of when your tank is full, normally this is when the petrol station pump clicks off which you can't achieve yet, again I put my ideas of how to possibly achieve this in my last post. Thefeliciahacker and others here know far more about Felicias and mechanics and electrics than I do but a simple multimeter can tell you if the lambda is reasonably working. IF it needs replacing then it can be important to get the exactly correct sensor for your Felicia to fully work properly generic replacement may not work as fully as they should, posts on such are on here. bear this in mind and tell the garage. Thank you for the thanks it is very much appreciated but Thefeliciahacker and others will be able to help you more but as I've lived in the UK (England) all my life I understand some things more about conditions in the UK than those that don't live in the UK and as I'm not very technical I can understand things more from a "classic" car beginners' point of view and for 30+ years I ran 20-50 year old cars as daily runners so have some knowledge and decades of experience (but very little with VWs, but we did own four Škodas from 1985 to early 1990s when they were new cars, VW had just begun to take over by then and quality initially dropped!! Škoda Dealerships were much, much better then than later and now, they had to be to keep their (loyal) Škoda customers as the other large manufacturers of the time got the media to make the Škoda brand a laughing stock in the UK because it threaten their car pricing and lack of warranties. Good luck.

Steve, I think these manual were written by German engineering students and then sent to somewhere like China for translating to English. I found it easiest to go through the menus on the touchscreen (or real buttons) and follow from there. I done it perfectly the first time but no the computers wouldn't have it so thought I must have balls'd it up but done exactly the same again a second (or third, I forget) time and bingo i got it passed Hal 9000. A week or two later my wife said the phone wasn't working on the car - it had dropped out, I think to show who was really in charge but it hasn't dropped out since. When doing anything electrical on the car do make sure the 12v car battery is in a good state of charge, run the engine if needed, also make sure the phone has a good state of charge and the bluetooth is enabled and working both ends. If you change phones or cars do remember to delete all the phone details the car holds - my wife had a loan car and when I paired her phone it also had the phone details for the loan driver's phone and previous those for a previous customer. Never put in your home phone number as home, same as with a TwatNav don't list your home as home and leave in journeys that clear show where you drive back to is probably home even if you've labelled it differently. Put up a decent photo (landscape please, you generally get more info in a landscape orientation) of your infotainment and what year your car is and someone will identify it if not me and perhaps be able to guide you more.

Don't forget about the air filter and air filter box and pipes. Service of the whole car is best but if this is just to help sort the fuel issue fine, but bear in mind the engine is not the most important component, system or part of a vehicle.

You could check the lambda ("oxygen") sensor with a multimeter, plenty of YouTube videos on this, some good, some not-so-good. Could it be that you're ramming the nozzle in too far and getting splashback or fumes, I can't remember now if the 1998 UK fuel cap entry pipes were restricted in size like modern petrol ones. How clean and clear is the area around the filler if it's covered in debris then clean it all out and check any small hole is open and not stuff. Do you have any sort of EVAC system? Do you normally fill the tank and know the actual capacity of your tank when full rather than what the book says? For a reasonably accurate mpg you need to fill the tank and then record the mileage and litres needed to refill to full again at next fill and divide one into other, after dividing litres by 4.54 for mpg. 260 miles is good for a (actual) 6 (UK) gallon tank but not so good for a (actual) 10 (UK) gallon tank.

Yes. And if you don't have it you can also download a free VWŠkoda pdf version of the 'Owner's Manual' for the car. If you read the car's 'Owner's Manual' and refer to it then you can help prevent some (cost) visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians, and you will know more about the car than many/most long term owners. Now because you're dealing with computers don't think you've necessarily done something wrong if the phone(s) do't pair up first time of trying or if one or both drop out at some point later often/usually it's the fault(s) of the computers or their programming, and not the users' (your) fault as computer workers often make out it is. And instructions are always well written. You don't say which Mk3 Fabia you have so I'm assuming (always dangerous) that its two separate books. VWŠkoda site for their free 'Owner's Manuals' and 'Operating Instructions' pdfs. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models

A lot of places use a torque wrench at the end but have already over-torqued the nuts (bolts!?) with the totally unnecessary rattle gun to put them back on, or guess what the correct torque might be or having on the same high setting for all as that's quickest and some prefer to do a quick job than a correct job. I've had (proper) wheel nuts overtighten pulling a stud despite telling the place the correct (lower than usual) torque and having the info printed on the paper I give them that they ignore with the other info. Any place putting the wheels back on ought to tell you to check and (some of?) bigger places will have it printed on the paperwork they hand you, obviously what the customer does after they leave the place they can have no control over. And mistakes happen, things get forgotten and not checked always best to check for yourself when you can. Also many places over inflate the tyres for various reasons. He may have had it checked and it was fine at the time, one good pothole can knock things out (or too fast up kerbs or drop-kerbs and at an angle, or dropping off a kerb). Or off course he may not have had it checked. You might be putting too much faith in an engineer taking care, I've know one that would tell you how you can reuse a bent screw twice more (slight exaggeration) and many can't be told anything - because they already know everything (the old encyclopaedia sales joke). Ones that deal with cars can be a right pain, all the arrogance of a medical surgeon without the good looks or extended high level education. On the other hand a mate was looking at a restored 1960s Volvo Amazon for his mate to buy and that car had been done by an engineer and everything on it was precise and to a very high standard but that engineer worked at the Merc race place, where they use hand tools. Wow! Lowest I can remember is £40, to about £150, 5 years back it was £50 for the Fabia to VW spec. The check is usually free but the charge is for work they find. A lot of what can be highlighted over the four wheels possibly can't be rectified by adjustment or the next reasonable pothole might put it right or any adjustment out again - but stuff that makes the front tyres wear unevenly can often very successfully be adjusted. Once you are confident in the car (and tyres and brakes fully "bedded" I'd suggest you get the engine fully warmed (90+C engine oil temperature, not coolant) and rest of car for a few miles of driving then give it an "Italian tune-up" blow-out run for a good few miles, that's higher revs not necessarily higher speeds. Preferably you would do this after and during tankful refills of high octane petrols which contain higher levels of cleaning additive packages. petrol.pdf Before, during and after an MoT and/or car (engine) service I'd do the same thing using a couple of tank refills of higher octane petrol and Italian-tune-up blow out run(s). The engine is a direct injection turbo pottering it about all the time doesn't do it good. Ignore the VW suggested gear selection on the dash it's not even correct for fuel economy many times let alone good for the engine. Good luck.

I know how you feel I had back problems for over 5 years partly caused by those bloody silly VW wheel bolts instead of wheel studs which is why I strongly recommend the use of at least one "wheel alignment tool" when removing or fitting a wheel (and I refer to the VW wheel bolts in much stronger terms in my mind). Hopefully the tyre place will remind you but in case not - take it steady on the new tyres for the first 200-300 miles this time of year and check the wheel (grrrrr) bolts for tightness after about 30 miles of driving (unless it's a good place they would have been overtighten by the ratttlegun anyway and torque wrench check is just for show. To get at the plugs you have to remove the engine air filter box so you might as well have that at least checked and cleaned out and possibly air filter replaced so you know it has been done and when. Good luck.

I've just remembered, VW use bloody silly wheel bolts, instead of wheel studs, five of them, so they can literally be a pian in the back (as well as a PITA, bloody stupid design) so I strongly suggest keeping in the boot and using guide/holding pin tool, well two of them is best, what Aldi, sorry, Audi, call an alignment tool. I got a set of (generic) two as per bottom photo from eBay, more expensive than some others available but seemed better made and material to me

I've put it on breeze blocks for all four wheels but that was mainly to get the car high enough for the Torx screwdriver to set squarely on to the Torx head screws. Next year hopefully I can keep the car on the ground as I have bought a Torx 1/4" socket which will require less space under it to operate it. If things are still tight for space I might just drive on to some blocks for the front wheels. Once the plastic underside shield is off I should have enough space to operate to remove the drain plug which won't have been overtightened as I installed it and easy to get at the oil filter. A new sump plug washer is required or new plug and washer combination. Up to you what tyres you like but the factory Nexen Blue HD weren't for grip. Take the tyre label results with a good pinch of salt, good tyres can get lower results and visa-versa. New tyres will help with the braking, steering and suspension, handling, road holding, comfort and noise, good tyres are always a good investment. Fluid does require a scan tool push on the ABS block for best practice but can be done the old fashioned way (and one man and a jar). I always favour a good lot of fluid as a flush out and not just drain, refill, bleed. Replacing the front and rear discs and pads were the easiest of the very few I've done on cars (and I'm far from mechanical) I can link to my notes on the jobs if you wanted. Once you get the car fully sorted and run in and settled it could be a very good basis for high mileage use for a reasonable number of future years use. Good luck.