nta16

That's a basic first, and install them correctly and fully, my wife had a a remote keyfob that had had the battery changed at a Dealership service and become difficult to use I "repaired" it by just pushing the battery fully home, then as I always do I resynchronised the remote to the car. Have you tried using the other remote? I recommend alternating the use of remote keyfob and blade keys as this means you know where the "spare" remote or key is and that it work, it also evens out the wear on remote keyfobs, key blades, key locks and batteries. If you let the remote keyfob battery go too low you will also be pressing the buttons harder and more times so also wearing out the remote keyfob quicker. If you don't know what a car door key blade is ask yer dad 😁 - and read the Owner's Manual about possibly using the key blade and resynchronising.

I have two in mine. 😁 They still sometimes ned cleaning and at the last rolling road set up all the red oil was blown out of them as I had over oiled them and the tuner said the airflow is better with them dry. I tried a single overall K&N filter for the twin carbs but it was found to be very slightly better to keep the two individual K&N filters but a very large magnifying glass is needed to see any power figures on my car. The specialist tuner I go to does not have or believe in the ego gauges and print-outs that many others seem to have. I went to another highly recommended specialist tuner once and I could see his gauges were reading so "optimistic" that I did not bother with a print out, and he did not do a very good job of the tuning despite the length of time it took and the cost.

Flood gates opened. 🤣 I will have a look tonight, I really must now do the washing up, clean the wheels I left too late to do yesterday and have a look at a neighbour's electric tyre pump, silly wheezing things (with inaccurate gauge) I much prefer a manual foot pump (with inaccurate gauge), not that I have a cigar lighter or 12v socket in my car.

This is the very basic missed that should not be otherwise moving on with any diagnostics could be very flawed. The air filter might be very clean but it could also be dirty and clogged from just sitting in a dusty garage or it could be clogged from insists and animals that used the housing and filter for various purposes. On the Fabia Mk3 IIRC the air filter is only changed every 4 years but with the old cars I have had air filters changes are annually or 12k-miles but as the paper filters were so inexpensive I would often change at 6-month services. To an extent the more air the bang.

Thefeliciahacker I have just had a very quick look at the start of your video and it looks like it will be very good and thorough and it is very good of you to make it to help others. I did notice a couple of small points I could if you wanted me to PM you on and look at the rest of your video when I have time but I do not want you to think I am criticizing or that I could do the job or video better. I am not a mechanic or have any mechanical aptitude or an expert in anything but very unfortunately for me, as I loathe working on my car, I have had to so have picked up a little experience and remember a bit from doing so 40+ years ago..

The very often forgotten contributing variables often including an element of Sod's Law.

Both good points. Also to consider (unless I've missed it) is that the engine might not be original to the car or of original type to the car and whilst I am a gospel of the good books of the Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual you must always bear in mind that the books were written in their time and not the present and referring to a factory standard car that is new, allowing for some aging and wearing but I can't remember any Service Record books going to 20 years, well not the cars I had we had anyway. What is available today might not have been available, or readily available, back then. Also this car and engine has been modified. The Driver's Handbooks usually say something like it's best not to leave the car idling and to drive off but I don not think 5 or 10 seconds before pulling away will do too much damage, it's not the same as leaving the engine running whilst the car heats up and/or whilst clearing the windows or car of water, frost or snow. I am not sure D. Fylatos would cope with a Fabia Mk3 as all the computers interfering often has the engine idle running rough from a cold start up, the scan tool would permanently be on dash (sorry, D. only joking).

D.FYLAKTOS, I was told 25+ years ago NOT to use fully synthetic Mobil 1 in my "classic" cars (over-priced and over-valued old cars) by "classic" car owners that had cars that barely moved a wheel year round, my 1960s and 1970s "classics" were used daily for commuting to work, 300 and 500 miles a week at one time, plus daily use, plus for work at other times, plus for club weekend tours, plus day club runs, plus club events, plus holidays in the UK and long weekends sometimes in Europe. I put thousands of miles a year on each car and at times I had more than one classic at a time. I was told it would ruin my engines, it did not the engines were as far as I know still going strong with the new owners many years or decades later. I was told Mobil 1 use would rot my teeth and steal my looks, I still have all my own teeth and still have my looks! I use a different, local blender, oil in my 1973 "classic" now but it is called a fully synthetic. Never mind what they say, what does the original Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) that came with the car from Skoda when the car was brand new say the engine oil options are, if any, for your car, in Greece? And any oil specification, like with the modern Fabias (VW 5xxxxx)? What is the hottest weather temperature you get where yo travel? What is the hottest oil temperature/coolant temperature you have recorded in your car? Do you have oil temperature and/or oil pressure gauge(s), if so what has been their highest and lowest readings? If you do not have these gauges how much do you think you would worry about their readings if you did? Without going into boring detail a semi-synthetic and ordinary/standard mineral oil may not be a lot different, a good quality mineral oil could be better than a low quality semi synthetic oil. A synthetic oil and semi-synthetic oil may not be a lot different, a good quality semi-synthetic could be better than a low quality synthetic oil. What you need is an oil suitable to your engine and your needs, or perhaps wants. The oil needs to be of good quality base oil and a good quality oil additives package that suits your engine. What is available today is a much wider and better range than 21 years ago so you have more choice. As long as the oil does the correct job for your engine in your circumstances then that is fine, only you can decide what is a a waste after that, if you want greater protection and performance from the oil then it is up to you when it becomes money wasted. Often want is needed for a race car is not suitable for a road (or fast road) car use, much can depend on the type and level of the racing, a car that is for track use only can be hopeless for road use and a standard or fast road car would be hopeless against that track car on a track. I will put again try that breathing through your nose first thing in the morning outside before getting into the car and again before getting into the car when parked underground, the engine needs air just like you and the variances of the air effect you and the engine. Use your TC-6 as a useful guide tool but do not become a slave to it, only check when really required, you do not want to be forever testing the car you want to be driving it, concentrating on your driving and even perhaps enjoying your driving after all the time. money and effort you have put into your car. Digital gauges are giving you a level of precision that may not match the accuracy and constancy of a car from 2000 that is now 21 years old. Much fuel saving comes from driver training and driving techniques which will be effective regardless of what's on the car.

No it's not good, that's gross exaggeration, what we call in this country "willy-waving" - penis waving, look at me, my car is louder, more expensive than yours, therefore I as the owner must be better than you. Same as the long bonnets on cars are known as "penis extensions" for various meanings. Those cars have deliberately loud exhausts from the manufacturers and often made even louder by some owners. Of course we all show-off at times just some much more than others and some in more anti-social ways than others. I have an exhaust that is too loud so I am not innocent.

D.FYLAKTOS, there will not be many like yourself interested in modifying a 2000 Felicia but there are plenty who are interested in modifying old cars and the general principles tend to be the same regardless of make and particular models obviously not to exact same details but 80s and 90s cars had a lot of similarities, many still with basically 60s and 70s elements. In the UK there is now a good following for everyday cars of 20 and 30 years ago and back further but many, certainly not all though, owners are learning about their cars as they go along so like ALL forms of information you have to carefully check and confirm the information. I often make many mistakes, get mixed up and forget, a lot, and I am not a mechanic or expert in anything, so always need checking. Even at -10c 10W would be fine as would a good quality 15w and perhaps you could use 30 instead of 40 in your climate but I do not know that, what does the original Driver's (Owner's) Manual for a 2000 Felicia in Greece or garage or cars parts shop information give as options for oil that you could use? ("Thinner" oil will possibly make more valve noise but will reduce internal engine resistance making the engine a little more efficient and perhaps give a very small increase in fuel l/km.) Scan Tools have improved a lot in very recent times with the electronic information they give and what you can do with them but of course they can not find electronic information the car does not give because of the age of its systems. I, like others, am not sure that you have any problem, you could try after starting the car in the car park tapping the accelerator pedal to drop the idle before driving off, you can experiment with how long you leave the revs at 1100 before you tap the pedal to se what suits the car and you the best. Personally I would wait about 10 seconds while I check the car from the driver's seat with my eyes, ears (and even perhaps nose and mouth, try that breathing through your nose deeply and slowly and out through your mouth in the car park and in fresh air). Good luck.

If smaller wheels and tyres were fitted by the manufacturers there could be more wheel arch clearance which would allow more comfort ride setting to the damper, springs and rest of suspension. The smaller tyres with higher sidewall provide cushion too. As it is now the wheels are big "filling the wheel arch" as is the fashion leaving less room for movement for the suspension so it's generally tighter and harder so as to be more controlled as it needs to be for the lack of space. Imagine, as has been put in previous post, the car fully loaded with passengers and luggage taking a tight so the car squats one side with the transfer of weight and motion (more so if also braking putting weight also forward), without "stiffness" and/or wheel arch clearance the tyre would be rubbering so the tyre and car not fully controlled and potential damage if continued long term.

That is the result wanted from cleaning . 👍 By the way I am not a particularly over clean type of person and am a bit scruffy but I do want the engine to run well which usually means clean supplies of fuel, air, oil coolant, etc.. Is the hole in the plate from factory or added in as a modification?

12.6v is good but is that off the two battery posts, if so what is the reading from outside of positive post clamp to a good earth point on the body(?) - BUT - your car starts fine in the first video, you revved it up too soon, leave it to settle itself or just drive the car off normally. Your battery terminal clamps look like they might be sitting a little high on the battery posts and that is why the clamps have been bent and overtighten - BUT - that may have put a ledge in the battery posts so leave them as is. And there is a glob of solder(?) on positive connector as long as the cable and connector are firmly fixed it does not matter. Second video it sounds like you might be pressing the accelerator pedal with your foot as you start the car or just after, if the car is cold do not do that. Unplug the MAP and then putting it back on may have just upset the ECU working out the fuel and air. I am not a mechanic but I can not see what doing this would achieve or prove and I can not see that it is generally a good idea to disconnect and reconnect a live electronic/electric connection but I may be wrong perhaps the ECU likes the off/on-again action for reset? Seems a bit risky to me. I do not see what the problem is with the tacho (rev counter) needle other than you are doing this well before the engine has fully warmed up (unless the temperature gauge reads too low). On second thought - perhaps your throttle body and plate are dirtier than the photo above shows with muck built up behind the plate making take up and shut down from idle unsteady. There is a lot of dust on the engine - is your air filter clean or replaced and the air filter box and air intake all clean of dust and have you clean oil and oil fitter? You could also clean the MAP sensor and check its seal you also want any pipes or hoses clean inside otherwise the dust or muck in them with mess up the sensors and filters you have just cleaned (or replaced). Allow plenty of time for the sensors or other items to full dry before refitting them and do not leave them lying in muck or dust or where dust or muck can blow or get into them. I don not mean anyone just a general observation, I see people cleaning items with dirty materials or in a dirty environment which can mean the items and not fully clean when refitted, obviously there is a limit to how clean but the cleaner the better, it is after all cleaning not re-dirtying.

The throttle body is not too bad but if you do want to clean it use the correct cleaner for cleaning throttle bodies. - (Scotty Kilmer) Make Your Car Run Better with a Little Spray Cleaner - ETA: perhaps your throttle body and plate are dirtier than the photo shows with muck built up behind the plate making take up and shut down from idle unsteady.

It's simple on modern cars like the Fabia, particularly with the over-complicated VAG computer programs (I wonder why that was done) the computers are in charge and they want their (battery, clean and clear) power and if they don't get enough of it to satisfy them they will communicate with each other and gang up together and make you realise they control everything. But even on cars with less electronics or no electronics at all the battery and all its electrical cables/wires and connections are very important to getting the car started and keeping it running. Look up the number one cause of breakdowns (in UK at least) and these will be even more prevalent now the long nights and colder weather (and the wet) are here car battery sales (many of them totally unnecessary) will increase greatly at this time of year, many times just recharging the battery would have prevented the breakdowns, and unnecessary new battery purchase. If a car won't start the first things you check are the battery and if fuel is getting to the engine (is there fuel in the tank!), see No. 1 (batteries are very rarely faulty in themselves, owners make them so) and No. 9. - https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cover/advice/top-ten-breakdown-causes

You would need a scan tool specific to your model and year of car to get much information. A year 2000 car is more difficult to find on general scan tools now and with any car at any age just because an error code it does not mean that there is not an error as it could be still within the acceptable range not to give and error code and/or the issue is mechanical not electronic as such. There could be a more than one issue that does not give error codes and any combination or permutation of these could result in an issue or various issues. Also I have no idea but wonder if the chip you have added might affect any readings or might have extended the parameter of reporting an error(?). Modifying the car is not a bad thing and can improve it if all done correctly but there are so many variables to the running of a 20+ year old car and you have widened these with taking the car away from standard. I think photos of your engine bay, the front of your car including the bonnet and both front wings may help here.

D.FYLAKTOS, for the oil, semi-synthetic and for many oils synthetic is more of a marketing term, perhaps when your Haynes was written there were less "synthetic" oils available plus often Haynes is sponsored by a particular oil brand so will obviously promote the products available from this brand. - and finally Haynes books often have errors and omissions, I have two for my car and published 1974 and 1982 and neither are fully correct for my 1973 model, do not take them as gospel. Oils have improved since 1960 and even 2000. The more noise from the 5w40 may partly be because of 5w instead of 10w but also because of change of oil make and/or model or type of oil. hearing the noise more may be a good thing as it might mean the oil isn't "thick" from cold so not flowing so well and not muffling the sound with a thick blanket of oil. It's all about the oil flowing correctly as soon as possible and what lubrication and protection is being given - and yes sometimes the "thinner" oil does give more noise but you soon get used to the level and you no longer hear it some much unless the noise changes. If you think 12c is cold then you probably don't need 5W in your car but it will not hurt the car if the correct good quality oil is used. As for tapping on the pedal to get the revs to drop at idle, that's fine, I'd forgotten about that being on carbs for so long, it is like a gentle nudge as a reminder. The car park is a different climate to outside and the density of the air, try standing next to your car before you start it in the car park and take a deep long breath in through your nose, then do the same in the morning outside see which gives your body the faster reaction.

215/45r16 = 599 mm nominal diameter (off the car) 205/55r16 = 632 mm nominal diameter (off the car) 185/60r15 = 602 mm nominal diameter (off the car)

Joob, first things first, take the 6 months old battery off the car and give it a long low slow recharge at least over night but longer if possible, check and if required clean the battery posts. Check and clean if required the inside and outside of the battery post clamps and check the thick battery cables do not have green on them. Check the battery earth cable where it bolts to the body work, the connection is tight and protected and the end of the cable has its insulation and no green on the cable. If you can also check the engine earth strap (if it has it) or any other earth straps, that all are secure, clean and if possible protected. A battery that is down on charge will not like the cold and damp weather will effect cables, wires and connectors that are not clean, secure and protected. Doing above will give you a solid base to work from and might even start the car the way you want. You can not sucessfully progress until you have checked and dealt with the basics and other than noting getting fuel to the engine this is the most common cause of not starting well, especially as the cold and damp weather starts.

I know you know what this is now but for info on it (and lots more) look at your Owner's Manual or if you do not have one you can download a PDF from here (scroll towards the bottom of the page). - https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/your-skoda

No wonder it's been like pulling teeth to get info, I did ask before, all starting to add up now. No point setting the car to standard when it's been taken away from standard, the only way to know if it's the chip at fault is to remove it from the equation, if it's the old piggy-back type chip that can be removed then do so and set the car up to standard, that's if the spark plugs and other parts are still to standard. Then see how the car runs and if the fault persists from that point. If the fault is not there then if you want conformation put the chip back on and settings back to how they were with the chip and see if the fault returns. To get extra performance with chips they reduce the parameters that the car manufacturer has put in which can be fine whilst everything is not too worn or aged and provided nothing throws up a fault that alters or eats further into the parameters. This depends on the particular oil and what sort of racing it's designed for, I use a race/rally/sports oil in my car that I only road use, the oil has all the additives required for road use and more, the quality means I have wider parameters of protection from that oil, my engine doesn't need to be race hot for the oil to work or give the added protection. If where you are gets below freezing then a good quality 5w-40 will be better than the same stuff in 10w-40 (see the chart), it may be that a 5w-30 or 10w-30 may be good for your climate, what does it suggest in your Driver's Handbook for your engine and location. Some oils are "thinner" than others so the "tappets" can be heard more (tapping) , this does not necessarily mean there is a problem if the oil is of good quality and the correct grade/weight for use and as these old design of engines get older and used you might hear the noise more that's just wear, tear and age (like my knee, elbow, wrist, fingers).

For (proper?) exhaust places and people like J.R. it's standard fare. I was going to put a post (one of my stock usual's) about using a good penetrating/ releasing fluid (like PluGas, not WD-40 Multi-use) plus patience, time and technique but I thought you were had a time constraint and it might not have worked if the fitting was previously buggered (yes I know some technical terms). This video covers what's gone on and possibly needed here, and the mention the time and patience method, which he didn't do to his regret, if you watch it through you'll see all this is is well worn paths. The title is a bit of a misnomer but not totally. -

Well you done the right thing, start with valve clearances, then plugs, ignition parts and on to timing. Motul ester(?) would be full synthetic if ester, so why was it a mistake? Did you change the weight/grade of the oil? Have you ever tried disconnecting the car's battery overnight or more, taking the opportunity to fully give it a long slow and low recharge, as this may rest the air/fuel (and other items) and if everything is still very clean engine wise (all sensors, oil & filter, air filter, plugs, etc. (or you could clean them again).

Looks are a matter of personal taste but fit is important the tyre needs clearance to allow for suspension travel and to miss anything that shares the wheel arch area (and to allow for weather conditions in places like the UK). 215/55R16 is a taller tyre so this will also raise the points of suspension above and below. - https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ The tyre itself, the make, model, type and make up is important to the ride comfort and noise too.

Boss I think that's the word, nut to get where I mean. Imagine if you went in to a proper exhaust place where they custom make and fit an exhaust to your car, not as expensive as you might think, especially if you're keeping the car a long time, in stainless steel perhaps. But in this case you replace the existing boss with a new one in mild steel (stainless takes more expertise). Below is just an example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251317510602