nta16

Hi, welcome. As well as many other sections and threads, If you've not already seen it, there's a Fabia section on this site that includes forums for the Mk1 or 2, Guides and Projects with lots of real world information and advice from owner and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ HTH.

That was my piont. 😉 I can remember a number of years back, before electric was fashionable, watching a YouTube video of and Americian mechanic showing the old parts and materials used to service his ICE vehicle engine and then what was used on the electric engne "service", he said he knew which he prefered. I seem to be the only one that remembers seeing stuff from the 1960s where electric cars "were the future" perhaps I was on fantasy island or it's false memory. A few years ago at a NEC international classic car show I saw a 1907 electric car. ICE won the battle all those decades (century plus) ago and the ICE manufacturers made sure it stayed that way for them as long as they could. Like the tobbacco, farming, sugar, pharmacy, arms, lobbies the motoring lobby is very powerful fiddling figures and currpting as much as required to keep their powers and profits. I'm not for or against electric cars or ICE cars, only against the ICE manufacturers being allowed to stiffle progress and alternatives. Now the Chinese have such a dominance over electric cars suddenly lots more progress on alternatives or improvements to petrol and diesel engines, and to electric, how strange. 😁

Not necessarily, it depends on the life it had but now with a new battery and if you use preventaive charging you could see an even longer life from the new battery even though it's fitted to vehicle with 7-ish years of life and use on the other components, systems and parts. As put the senor(s) will be easy to identify with a scan tool but bear in mind possibly it might not be that sensor(s) actually at fault but the connections or wiring or other so do check and cross reference the results to confirm it is actually the sensor(s) at fault. If it is a sensor(s) at fault do be careful about fitting just some cheap generic make, it might be good, or good for a time or it might not and these sort of things always involve getting dirty so you (well I) don't want to do the same job once let alone twice. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Perhaps there might have been, are, will be, an odd or perrhaps batch of bad batteries but in my experience this would be rare, IMO much more likily bad computer programing for the charging of the batteries but I'd not expect the car manufacturers to admitt this including VAG, who have been proved in court to be liars previuosly. Obviously once the "bad", or genuinely bad, batteries are used on the VAG and then removed it is difficult to really know if it was the battery at fault.

@Micky 32 apollogises in all my rambling I forgot to put perhaps your battery is bunged up or had it and unable to take more charge but if so I'm a bit surprised your charger doesn't indicate this, by perhaps never showing full/100%.

Be interesting to know how much the VAG alternator/stop,start,/emmissions fuel saving lip service computer program actaully add on a long, congestion free motorway run add above the 75%-80% as the assumption is it'll be a lot and I'm not so sure about that, how much 'coasting' and braking is actually done if yournot constantly driving up the tailpipes of the vehicles in front and having your brake lights like dico lights.

Yeap nothing is certain. I'm sure you could arrange a set up where you could remove the dome nut and check its thread with a micktrick bolt/setscrew and keep supply continuity but I think it doesn't hurt and possibly helps to disconnect the supply for a while, even perhaps drasin it, to help with past, present and future computer brain-farts on the car. In my simple mind I'd expect a lug that could be used for jump starting the car to be more substational than one only to be used for charging the battery but I'm certainly not a German engineer (gawd bless their cotton socks) and as I put I'd not be surprised if the Audi part was plastic. 😁 😄 Biased, yes I am. 😁

Just a note. As your battery is new it probably won't mind being rushed but if the Noco 10 runs at 10-amp its a bit over the top for a 70 Ah battery, VWŠkoda in the their 'Owner's Manual' have to use 0.1 to battery Ah, so 7-amp when battery is connected to car and that would be my maximum for bench too, though I'd use a lower amp charger, often 4-amp or 1.8-amp for a battery that won't start the engine particularly a modern engine. Varta might also have their battery to be bench charged at 4/5-amps(?). More isn't always better. IIRC general rule is faster recharge for fast discharge and slow recharge for slow discharge but in my experience I've always found a long, slow, low recharge to be better but of course this does require the time (sometimes days) and patience. Good luck, how's it going?

Depends on what is meant by trickle charger but assuming it means low amperage then it may take many hours to charge the battery to a decent level and many more to get it to full. In that photo I put up, bearing in mind it was a cold winter's day but I used the "winter" setting on the (4-amp) charger and the battery wasn't low by many car owner standards it took over 15 hours to get to full. Certainly no warning lights or messages and I would fully expect the stop/start to be active when it should but we normally switch it off as routine before driving. As I put if you can't get it to full in one session then get there in two sessions (or more). It might be that you have a speed sensor orother issue(s) and a low battery but charging the battery is very easy clean hands work where you're only involved with the car a few minutes at the start (after reading instructions for charger and car) and a few minutes at the end of the charge. Let us know how you get on and if you want more info or advice.

I've never needed sanitisers (that I'm aware of) but I have seen other members posting about cleaning the a/c on various threads in varioius sections but sorry I don't remember what they put and used or even if they were sanitiser bombs (whatever these bombs might be). @D.FYLAKTOS is keen on fresh clean air to his car perhaps he knows(?).

Low battery charge can cause this. The headlights may seem bright enough and the engine starts easily but the battery can still be in a too low state of charge for the computer and this can cause all sorts of unexpected warning lights an messages, unseen error codes and on to issues. So fully (to 100%) recharge the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the charger and instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Best is to use a low and slow charger maintainer, 2, 3, 4 or 5-amps and be patient as it may take many hours. If you can't fully recharge to 100% in one go then do it in two (or three) but get there. Then in future do occassional preventative charges to avoid this or worse in future. If you don't have your car's 'Owner's Manual' you can download one free from VWŠkoda's manual website. -https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models If this doesn't cure your warning lights then let us know. Good luck. Preventative charging (-4c winter night, I'm warm and cosy inside not farting about with cars outside, other than taking photo) -

Hi, welcome. Plenty of owners have reduced the size of the wheels, and of the tyres are important for ride comfort. There is real world advice and information from owners and others in the Karoq section of the site and for this subject also the'Tyres and Wheels' forum may be worth a look and there are many other sections of the site and threads and posts for other information. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Hope that helps.

Hi, welcome. Read and refer as much as you can to the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Then there is real world advice and information from owners and others in the model sections of the site and many other sections of the site and threads and posts. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Hope that helps.

Hi, welcome. Read and refer as much as you can to the car's 'Owner's Manual'. Then there is real world advice and information from owners and others in the Karoq section of the site and many other sections of the site and threads and posts. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Hope that helps.

Quick thoughts. Did you test the alternator? DId you clean the battery terminal clamps inside and out before fitting them to the new battery? Have you checked the battery post clamps are securely fitted to the battery posts? Did you check the main battery cable connections are clean, secure and protected both ends? Did you check the new battery voltage before you fitted it to your car? Did you fully charge (to 100%) the new battery before fitting it to the car? Is your OBDEleven Pro fully updated for its programs? Have you checked the coding with your OBDEleven Pro? Have you checked for error codes? The engine should start well with a new battery but will start even with an old battery that is in a low state of charge, do you think you might have some elctrical drain, have you left some car setting on which might drain the battery, far too much potential for this on some Superbs with all the extras, "aids", "assists", conveniences, etc., etc.. If you were accelorating why was the battery showing as discharging what electrical loads were on at the time? When did you get the 12.7v reading after stopping, was that very soon after or many hours later? Try fully recharging the battery (to 100%) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the charger and the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual'. This may take many hours from 11.4v. Then disconnect the stop/start battery monitoring whilst you investigate this. Have you tested the alternator? That's enough for now, no doubt others will have other and perhaps better ideas.

I was thinking of a plain hole and clamping it with nut and washers if it's only for battery charging. If you want the thread size surely its standard micktrick thread and not one of the other two and a resourcefull chap like yourself has stock of micktrick nuts, bolts (probably in the three threads) and washers (I only have stocks of imperial really). I've just tried a spanner on the domenut and its 13mm spanner so accourding to my homemade table (not wood or metal) that usually means a M8 thread.

See my previous post. That 'book' earth connection is fine for battery chargibg, your not trying to jump start the car with it, bit fiddly yes, and why on earth a bracket connector post isn't is strange but the German engineers are supposed to know best. 😄

Yeah fine. as long a the crocodile clip had a good firm connection throughout charging. It's not the washer its the end connector of the main earth cable from the battery to the car's body. I've done preventative charges to my wife's car's battery like that for the past 4(?) years. That is the earth piont as shown in the car's 'Owner's Manual@ (you are reading and refering to the 'Owner's Manual' I hope, if you do then you can know more about the car than many long term owners). In your photo I'm not sure why that bracket wasn't made into the earth connector for battery charging, when I saw your photo I thought I've never notoiced that bracket(?) before and went and had a look at my wife's car and on her car that bracket(?) is painted but that may not be correct or factory original to be painted(?).

Micky 32 don't go too strictly on figures alone, especially from battery tester Mystic Meg type life predictioins. As always with 100% (full) you have to ask 100% of what, in this case it might be 100% of available in battery or 100% charger satifaction perhaps . Like you've put the voltage figures are good but they don't, like my memory, retain as much as they previously did. That's why on a suspect battery you do further checks/tests. Repeatedly starting the car's engine whilst taking voltage readings can be a good real world indicator of the battery condition on the car the battery as fitted with all the usual drains from the car. Yes I would expect my 4-amp charger maintainer to take many hours to get from 80 to 100% when charging it on the car but (without any real checks) to me our battery seems fine and I expect it coulkd last many more years of useful service with us and how we use and maintain things (and I do the very minimum maintence on the car as I can). The Ring charger maintainer I use won't get to full ("FUL") on a battery not capable of it from the way the Ring is set up (and I believe it may accept to charge a battery as low 2v in charge). I'm not a fan of these (expensive) CTEKs though others say they're great and I know people that own them I just don't have the confidence in them as my mate had two of them identical and they gave different stage of lights when tersted on the same battery, perhaps a rare one off case but at the cost and my limited experience that puts me off, they seem more suited to the type of people that like Audis and that certainly ain't me but as always each to their own. If you have an EFB battery you can often check it's 'water' (electrolyte) level in each of the 6 cells to make sure they are at correct levels and also see a bit the condition of the plates which will give you an idea of any damage of furred upiness reducing performance and make a decision about whether to replace that batterry. Check again after fully, or as far as it gets charging. How many hours after the charging had finished, was it directly to the battery terminal posts alone not the post clamps. Up to you, if you believe your tester replace the battery now. Would 530 amps start your car in the coldest bit of winter with whatever electrics and electronics you and your car's computers run at those times, would you still have 530 amps available at that time anyway, how much lower could that figure go and still start your car and the battery still successfully run all the electruics and electronics you and the car's computers want at those times. Doctor Google sez 530 is 75.71% of 700 if that helps. As I can no longer do even the very simple maths I was once capablke of I don't bother too much with all the figures and maths and anyway it's not all as strictgly straighnt forward as some of the simple maths, I prefer prevention and that sdaves what's left of my feeble brain for more importasnt matters than farting about with cars u nnecessarily. I've had decades of attendig to use/abuse/neglected batteries on some of my neighbours' cars and I often had to take the batteries out of the cars, where possiblle check each cell, and start with using my 30+ year old "dumb" (like me) charger with its needle guage and misaligned numbers and within minutes I'd roughly know how longer the chargiung might take and swap over to my 20+ year old "smartish" (I can't remember what they were called then, marketuing terms change over years) and then as it only has one light that no longer seems to change colour (unless turned off-n-on-agen) I mght finish with the Ring "smart" charger just to confirm "FUL" or not. Wow, another long un, could cure insomnia.

I thought about doing similar but never gt a roundtuit and got aroud it as I was sure there's enough thread under the nut for the remote post and a washer and nut or half nut and it'd still be awkward to get at. Why not drill out the threads on the Audi remote post (check it's not plastic if it's from Audi) and clamp it with a shakeproof washer and halfnut and you could paint them if you're that fussy.

ETA: if the battery was installed at less than 100% charged when new, then the VW programming keeps it at around 80% most of the time then was the battery ever really full from when it was fitted to the car and what happens to the battery when it was new will affect the battery's life if only in a small way. All cars are about compromises, and for VW (and others) some proven deciets and probably a lot of unproven and unknown deciets, best as an owner/driver to accept these as much as possible, not much you can do about the compromises many of them are necessary just accept some VW pretend care about emmisions and fuel economy at the sacrifice of some battery longity or turn off as many electrical/electronic systems as you can that you don't want or use and do preventative battery charging as I've put numerous times and in this thread. If you are that concerned you can get monitoring for battery use and charging. And then we've not covered the VW sotware and hardware errors and faults that may contribute to issues on the car and premature battery replacement.

Depends on the run and what of all the various electrical items you and the car were using, amperage of charger and other stuff. The chargers aren't intelligent (same as compters, AI, "phones", ect.) that's just marketing, they are extremely dumb just following programing. You're looking at three lots of programs and hardware andhaving these interact so which of the combinations is correct, how much variance(s) in the stand alone and combined systems. "Full" as measured how and to what, the existing capacity or original or program measurement of full, the battery might be as full as it can get now. Don't get too hung up on exact figures, go back to more of the old idea of an anolgue gauge with a needle, say a fuel tank guage, able to swing to a few markings, rather than 100 percentage numbers, and by quick glance you can tell if it's in about the right place for ususual.

Fair enough perhaps the spindles are drive locators to operate the flap, I've no real idea as I've never seen these motors fully together or apart. I avoid as much computer controlled stuff as I can in cars and find those with climate control are programed to operate differenttv to how I feel comfortable with the heatng and (not very good ventilation) setting and control in modern car. You can live without the recirculation, either have the inside and outside enviroements more balanced from the start, this may involve something forgotten about now, opening windows - you need to do that sometiumes to clear the indide of the windscreens of Mk3 Fabias even when the heating, air-con and ventilation controls are all fully working anyway unless you don't mind waiting 10 minutes before you can safely see to drive.

Good point. I totally agree, I was thinking of this case as reduced assistance rather than complete loss of all assistance. The vehicle is set up for this assist to be fully working. It's the same with loss of power steering assistance. That's the thing with all these assists (and there are so many with more modern vehicles) great when they're fully working but not so great or good when they aren't fully working (and computer controlled adds another skip full of PITA and misery). I had an old car (called a "classic") with a brake servo and someone else had the same model (but different variant) without servo and just to see I done a brake test in mine and jumped straight into the other car to test for difference in braking and allowing for the slight varince and with and without servo the braking distances on the road were the same but obviously the pedal feel and pressures were different. As I used to be used to swaping from "classic" car use to modern new car use i always done a minor test of the brakes almost immediately after driving off which was easy from home as there's a T-junction not too many yards away. I started this when i'd been driving only a "classic" for a few weeks and then jumped into a nearly new modern car and gently braked at that T-junction and was too suprised at how quickly the car slowed. 😄 Nothing was wrong with either car's brakes they just varied so much in pedal effort and feel.

Very good piont. I forgot about as I'm so used to avoiding this on my wife's Fabia. The bonnet opening cable can get in the way of being able to see the earth cable strap ring under the painted nut and does get in the way a bit for connecting the charger's negative cable crocodile clip so as well as making sure the clip is actually on the negative cable end you also need to be sure the clip connection is secure and stable. This is very easy to do, getting the positive clip on the positive terminal clamp or its nut can sometimes be a bit more fiddly but again not difficult to do. As with all electrical connections you want them clean, secure and protected (clips have covers).