nta16

Other appropriate scan tools will do the flap resets too. Climatronic is just another load of computer stuff to go wrong to me, and it seems the manual settings unit might give more pleasing air-con to some owners.

Yes sorry I totalled missed your name, I remember now you got the (to me over-priced and perhaps over-valued) CTek. I'm not sure where you took the voltage readings but 16.65 sounds a typo. 12.2v depends when and how you took the reading but if it was with a digital multimeter a good number of hours after the battery had been charged and the car's system were awake then you could add say 0.2v or 0.3v to allow for that taking the battery to say 12.4v or 12.5v which is Ok(ish) but not great IF you recharged the battery to full (100% of what it can do). It really depends on hold well and long the battery holds that charge and how well it can be used (the drop test mentioned earlier in the thread). Batteries do age but also it depends on their use, abuse and possible neglect as to how well you might be able to recover them, if they've been flogged too much and/or too then their recovery will be less, recharge(s) left too late (or too little). Check the battery again, after the car hasn't been used for a good few hours or if used not long ago turn the headlights on for 60 seconds to take off the surface charge to give a truer voltage. When comparing readings consistence of equipment, method and conditions is important.

For a garage perhaps, this report of the battery's death might be exaggerated. But in your case you can ignore what anyone or machine says and go by your experience. They should have replaced your battery before they handed the car over to you or certainly when you made a repeated complaint about it but obviously they were hoping to get away with it and you buy a new battery, at least they saw sense (or gave in) in the end. Do remember the new battery is newer but still a store that can be depleted so at some point (hopefully not too soon) need charging by driving or use of an appropriate charger maintainer. You will get (many) more years out of this new battery than an average owner by when required preventative (low, slow) recharging with an appropriate charger maintainer. Good luck.

ETA: just realised the first paragraph here might have been covered in another thread (missed your member name) - Try a long charge of your existing battery first, it might take many hours, overnight or perhaps more but patientive and time are good, low amperage charging (3,4, 5-amp charger maintainer). If you can't do it in one session do it in two or three if required, get the battery to it 100% - even if the car only wants 75-80% it'll be better for the battery to be at 100% of recharge. The message will be to warn that your concussion is too high for the 'power' in the battery and what the alternator can keep up with and charge the battery. Usually it means the state of charge in the battery is low and the battery needs charging. Think of it like spending too much for what's in your bank account (without overdraft available) you either need to slow down your spending or put more money into your bank account. High electric consumers are electric power-steering, air-con, blower, heaters perhaps - or accumulative effect of constant low drain items like something you leave plugged in or switched on when the car engine (so alternator) not running. HTH.

ETA: UK Government website confirms Felicia 1.3 is not suitable foe E10. Its particularly not good if you don't use the Felicia frequently as t likes to pulling moisture, I can't remember if the E10 petrol it goes off quicker or not, certainly a PITA for petrol 4-stroke garden tools. https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/%C5%A0koda

The higher octane fuels also have greater additive cleaning packages. Attached list (already posted by Ootohere) is from 2023 but gives you the idea. - petrol.pdf

In your photo - fuse 5 =25a fuse 6 =30a fuse 7= 20a fuse 8 = 7.5a fuse 9 = 10a fuses 10 to 13 empty Fuse 8 according to the 2017/11 'Owner's Manual' is "Towing hitch" also on May 2015 as "Trailer detector control unit - J345". So if you don't have a tow hook on your car try removing the 7.5a fuse from location 8 and put it in location 12 and see if the Infotainment screen comes to life. I have only looked at Fuse (location) 8 and 12 I've not checked others. As I put for whatever reason annoyingly VW haven't put the fuse size in the 'Owner's manual' same as they don't oil capacities, "simply (not) Clever". Let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. The 'Owner's Manual' is a good place to learn from too, if you read it and refer to it you can sometimes know more about your car than many other long term owners and the model and it can help prevent unnecessary hassle and costs particularly to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. There a free VWŠkoda website with the manuals. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Also of course is the 'Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ My main advice is to keep the 12v battery in a a reasonably good state of charge by driving the car enough and far enough and/or occasional (as required) preventative charging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the charger maintainer and what's in the car's 'Owner's manual'. Even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily (that's about the last thing to fail) the battery could be too in charge for the computer systems that will then throw up all sorts of unexpected issues, warning and unseen error codes, loads of threads and posts all over this site and elsewhere about this on all stop/start VW models. Good luck.

97-99 petrols will be E5 (up to 5% ethanol) with higher cleaning additive packages so try running on only those and see if things improve give all else that you done already. Tesco Momentum99 is still my favourite or V-power if it's not too expensive or same for Esso, you may find differently with your car but I'd be a bit more surprised if you did. Some say all petrols are the same, and all oils are the same, they are to a point but there are differences in both, sometimes not much difference but some difference which can be very important in some circumstances. I'm not a fan of 4-cylinder VW engines (always sounded rough to me and I'm used to 1960 and 70s BL engines!) so to lose a cylinder means even more care and attention required. I've had under 700cc turbo engines but they were Japanese (better engineering than VW) and one Merc which was excellent much against the expensive new Mercs of that time which were poor, German marques decline, worse now of course.

Have a look at the 'Owner's manual' for programming and DAB to FM switching if required, otherwise put up a photo (landscape not portrait please) in a new thread and we can perhaps see what's what The older infotainment systems seem better and more reliable than later ones. This year I moved the MoT on my wife's Fabia from end of September to mid-July meaning I can get the next MoT from mid-June to mid-July when the days are longer so more convenient to work on the car and away from the September bi-annual changing car madness, panic and lack of appointments. The car's benefit from occasional Italian tune-up (blow-out) good long runs (doesn't have to be motorway, sustained sensible higher revs rather than higher speeds) particular if they usually only get short journeys regularly, will help charge the battery a bit more too. Running the tyres at 30psi rather than "Eco" 35psi makes a difference to comfort and handling (well as much as it has).

The fuel filler flap used to, as well as tyres, give petrol info - and with a book symbol refer you to the 'Owner's manual' for more info.

Thing is it needs to be another 2017 Fabia owner with the same model you have and possibly trim lever (not listed), gearbox, and same wiring for perhaps extras, manufactured at the same time as yours perhaps, to be sure of same fuse allocation and layout. Fuse ratings can be different depending on wiring to the fuse. How you got a fuse in no.12 above and if so what colour/rating? Lets approach it from the other direction, you put up a reasonable resolution photo (so it can be zoomed in on and landscape not portrait please) of your fuse box and we might be able to workout what might be wrong fuse wise. Below is from May 2015.

Different car to a Fabia and without the benefit(?) of all the computer control (or even single or multiple let alone TSI) but with my old car I always found BP Ultimate to be noisy and old Esso 0% to be smoothest. I forgot Sainsburys as I never go there but my wife has used their 97 in the Fabia particularly if the price is good. @Ootohere you are regularly up to date with petrols why not update the list and add Sainsburys.

Why was the timing belt changed? Running a few tankful's of V-power with some Italian tune-up runs is far cheaper than visiting an engine tuner normally. Is the car standard or have you had it tweaked. There's no substitute for road running, you can see and record data in real world circumstances rather than on rollers. You don't need motorways to do Italian tune-ups just keep the revs up sensibly high, nice bendy roads with gear changes are fine, motorways are sooooo boring. Below is an old out of date VWŠkoda showing the scant minimal "servicing" and "maintenance schedules" , perhaps Air-con service is too regular but other stuff like engine air filter interval seems too stretched to me and the "service" cover a bit of the engine but not rest of the car. A lower mileage car would need an annual engine oil and filter change probably more than a higher than average mileage car. 8 miles should just about get the engine oil to temperature towards the middle to end of the journey but not perhaps for the majority of the journey and if it's all low mph and rev driving it's hardly giving the car systems much exercise. There may be more than one issue or cause to this issue, perhaps one is as your friends say timing, or it's only the timing but what checks and equipment do you friends have to confirm their thoughts. Also never assume just because parts are new that they can't be the wrong or faulty parts or fitted wrong or partly wrong, has the correct coil been changed (did the coil even need changing) the tuner said the misfire was on all three cylinders. Perhaps you could run the petrol tank very low (panic level) and see if things get worse. Then you can more fully refill with fresh E5 petrol and give the whole car more exercise. Tell your sister once she has the engine full warmed, 90+C oil temperature, to then give the car a good long Italian-tune-up run on a longer distance journey, very high speed not necessary but keep sensibly higher revs, have some fun with the 115(?)PS, after all it's not her petrol she's using. 😁 Enjoy your holiday.

Could be so many things, diagnostics does end (or even begin often) with error codes or lack of them, it can take a fair bit to alert the extremely dumb computer systems well passed what a driver/owner might detect as something wrong. Live data should help which the engine tunning specialist should have picked up and has made a suggestion on. Has the car been sitting around unused for a time. One tank refill isn't going to clear things out if that's required it'll take two or three tank fulls (not top-ups) at least to notice any improvement. Once you have the engine full warmed 90+C oil temperature then give the car a good long Italian-tune-up run on a longer distance journey, very high speed not necessary but keep sensibly higher revs (which will be well away from 1500 rpm) that will blow things through and warm the exhaust. A few of those runs might start to clear things out more and help get through the higher octane E5 petrol with extra cleaning additives. What's the point of having the 115(?) if you're not going to use the extra power occasionally 27,000 miles in 5 years isn't a lot perhaps it's clogged up a bit from too many short journeys(?). Make sure your engine air filter and its box and tubes are clean, replace the engine air filter if it wasn't changed with the spark plugs or a little time before. Are you sure the plugs were the correct one as you only has three any issue with just one of them is a whole third instead of quarter (or less). For E5 higher octane petrol with additional cleaning additives I'd stick with Tesco Moment99 or Shell V-Power but there are others, see attached old and out of date list for some of them. - petrol.pdf

Hi, welcome. Whilst if you search this forum you will find this sort of thing has been covered here before you might find more like-minded people and information by looking and/or asking in the 'Fabia Projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums of Briskoda. HTH. 'Fabia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

Hi, welcome. This is too little information (for me at least) what on the car has stopped - everything, engine, etc., etc.. No electric to what, the whole car, ignition, etc., etc.. You could start with the clutch pedal or at the 12v battery and it's connections and go from there, or ignition switch. The computers rule the roost, if one bit's faulty they might not let you operate the rest, or the clutch might be mechanical, how's the brake fluid level.

Hi, welcome. Fuses can vary so you'll need someone with access to specific information probably from your VIN, he or they may be along later. The car's 'Owner's Manual' has a layout diagram and allocation number for the fuses, if you get a torch and magnify glass (or take a photo and zoom in) you should see the markings for the fuses in the black plastic of the fusebox Below is from the 2017/11 version, hopefully it's correct, if so fuse 12 'Infotainment screen', not all spaces are filled with fuses ("Not assigned"). (No, there's no mention of fuse rating cos VW are arses about such things). HTH.

Personally I'd never want a car newer than say 2016 (well 1980 really) but I'm not average. And I'm not a fan of German marques, the rubbish about German car engineering quality being good finished around or before the start of this century. I prefer Japanese cars, Toyota and Honda aren't as good as they were but still at top for me for my wife (to save me farting about on her car). Newer cars come with more potential computer issues and the more modern the more so (as the car takes over some of the driving and driver decisions which generally I dislike). VW are so confident in their build and manufacture they only offered 3-year warranty, to me a (good) 7-year warranty holds a lot of appeal but you only have 2-years left on that. The two new headlight bulbs is something I'd want to know about on a 5-year old car. The Fabia isn't a bad car, in fact very generally it's good, my wife chose it over a Swift of similar age when she bought it 9 years go, my mate had told her the Fabia has the biggest(?) interior space for it's class, if that matters. Whilst very generally it's a good car it certainly could have been better. The very low mileage will be very attractive to many. I'm used to full service history so I'd point out your Fabia's not complete but the vast majority of people would (wrongly) think it complete but I don't think there might be any really significant effect because of this. Much depends on its condition and how it was driven (and not) some people drive their cars in a very wearing way despite the very low mileage. I have neighbours that don't do 1,000 annually a couple less and a lot less so I have some experience of these low mileage cars (as well as formerly being in car clubs with old-farts that rarely drive their "classic" (over-priced, over-valued old) cars. The Fabia might be good for someone who has to do very high annual mileage over the next x-number of years in that although it's aged hopefully it hasn't worn much, with the lack of use, but it'd probably sell to another person that won't put much mileage on it and deteriorate quicker that way but that's not your concern. You might be surprised how much the Fabia might be worth to sell. Personally I'd have a 2015 car over a 2020 but it'd be being hung instead of shot for me. Good luck.

In case you've got a DSC gearbox. - Ignore prices as table is a number of years old

ETA: sorry I forgot at the start - Hi, welcome.

Previously the robbing b*st*rds at VWŠkoda UK and Dealership would have you wasting around £400 for cambelt replacement at 5 years or 50k-miles whichever was sooner but then for their convenience they fell in line with the rest of Europe at 1st July 2023 to (for our 1.2 TSI) to 15 years or 180k-miles whichever is sooner (annual inspection of belt is recommended). - CamBeltchangechange.pdf It's a 10 year old car but you only show 6 annual oil (and filter) changes with such a very low mileage car generally there is even more need for timely and regular annual oil and filter changes, more so than if the car was much higher than average annual mileage. You are very wise to replace the tyres as they effect the braking, steering and suspension also affecting the road holding, ride comfort and noise despite how much tread depth may be left on them. The factory Nexen N blue tyres were adequate but far from best that you could have and at 10 years old will be far from even their best with such low mileage use. You have not mentioned spark plugs and engine air filter changes both important for good running of the engine and VWŠkoda particularly stretch out engine air filter changes. Air-con might be worth considering at 10 years old if not touched before. Of course the most important system is the brakes. 2015 might depend on what part of 2015 the car was actually manufactured for reliability earlier and later seem to be better than my wife's 2015 (1.2 TSI, 90Ps (5-speed manual, SE). From our 9 years experience - the engine bay makes all sorts of noises when the computers are doing their stuff and to me the 4-cylinder VW engines have always sounded a bit rough but that's how they are, others don't notice the front dampers only lasted until 6 years old at 41k-miles before being an MoT failure and the Dealership fitted replacements (with 2-year warranty) were "misting" at 11 months old, MoT advisory undetectable clunks from the underside have been reported, ours has it, some have replaced lots of parts for it to remain despite not having a "spare" key and instead alternating use of both keys one of the remote fobs stopped working (£182 replacement) computer system brain-farts with the amber triangle of doom accompanying non-existent issues with exterior lights water leaks at rear door (common for all the Fabias) boot switch or wiring (fairly common). A VWŠkoda Dealership should be able to give you a paper print-off of any service work entered on their system, it's called a "Complete record". You can check the car for any outstanding VWŠkoda UK "Recall" (well those they admit to) here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns If you want some computer updates they might be here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ One thing to bear in mind is that the computers don't like the battery to be too low for them, which isn't particularly low, the headlights will seem bright enough and the engine will start (you really have to flog to near-death the 12v battery for the engine not to start). The first sign the battery is getting too low for the systems is the stop/start not activating when it should, then you need to take the car for a good long run or better still use an appropriate battery charger maintainer to fully recharge the battery. Better still is to do very occasional preventative charging to, er, prevent the battery getting too low to upset the systems, usually not needed if the car is driven frequently on longer distant journeys without excessive battery drain. With such low milage the battery would have been changed at least once if a battery charger maintainer hasn't been used (the batteries aren't cheap, then there's possible 'coding' on top). Reading and referring to the car's 'Owner's Manual' will help you avoid time, hassle and money on unnecessary visits to Dealership, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians, and you will also know more about your model than many long term owners. You should have the paper printed version and/or you can get a free VWŠkoda pdf download from the VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models HTH. ETA: I look after my wife's car more than the average owner (not that it desires it - AG Falco would be at or nearer fanatical (I checked the meaning of the word to be sure).

I've no idea about 'PowerFlex' bushes on a Fabia but generally unless you are fitting very 'stiff' race stuff the then they are not that "hard" as they are designed for road use, what you had done with the rest of the suspension and mounts will have more effect. Are you sure it's the change to Lemforder mounts that has created or contributed to this or could it be the change is highlighting an already existing issue. I have had 'PowerFlex' (blue) bushes on an entirely different car where differences would be a lot more noticeable and not found them to be either too 'soft' or 'hard' but there are so many variables, including a person's perception of 'hard' and 'soft', to say other than a generalisation. If you have not already looked you may find existing threads or post in this forum with the information you want or perhaps in 'Fabia Projects' or 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums. 'Fabia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ I hope that helps.

If it's possible it's always best to check a new part works and is the correct item and fitting/fixing as much as you can before you commit to the parts replacement, I've even had the wrong part or label in or on packaging, or just the wrong part sent (or ordered by me in a common moment of confusion and/or lack of glasses). I'm all for saving time and hassle by ordering low cost parts but then to fit say a switch to find it's untested wiring or connector at fault, far more of a PITA with the thin fragile wiring and connectors on these cars. Good luck, let us know how you get on (whilst directing your son how to replace the part whilst you drink the tea while it's still warm and eat the last of the biscuits, and if you're my age then have to go for another pee).

Unless he's mains recharging the battery he should be alright without mains electric as for getting in other people's way that another matter but to me it's never any fun farting about with cars even if you have the loan of a mate's garage but a multimeter and scan tool are battery powered and you don't even need to check battery charge on hand tools (though I find the can-be-arsed supply for can be very low many times). Breezy_Pete's yer man for the electrics and their details. The varying small or tiny wunderbar less-than-fantastic plastic wire connectors can be a fiddly PITA and sometimes difficult to power items, that can be, direct from leads connections to 12V battery for direct power/earth testing for yay/nay confirmation of working, which is where an appropriate scan tool can be useful for activation test. Blimey you had a real crisis Caterham instead of Westie! 😁