nta16

Dave, I tried and the link doesn't work now sorry, the advertising of the offer must have finished I guess but some might still be on the shelves perhaps but I don't know as I've been to an Aldi so few times. Lidl built a shop very close to where we live so I go there, I'm not a shop goer though. However it does mean I know Parkside brand is from Lidl (not Aldi). I don't know what brands for tools Aldi now use but having used a (very) few tools from Lidl and one my neighbour bought from Aldi I find those ones at least to be very good and good value. I've been using a set of extendable garden loppers that my neighbour bought from Aldi for a couple of seasons now and given them use beyond their specification and they continue working fine, at the price he paid for them they have already returned the investment in them. As an alternative you could look at the up dated version of the charger I use on my my wife's 2015 Fabia (60Ah AGM) battery if you shop around you can get it at a lower price than direct from Ring if you want. I got mine (RSC804) at a lower price off an eBay provider, I dislike Amazon and usually (not always) find I can get the same products for a lower price on eBay than Amazon. https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Obviously other products and providers are available. Ring RSC804 in use on a cold winter's night. -

Check with OBDEleven but generally you want the correct and up to date program for your make model and (part) year /VIN other than generic OBD codes. German marques, including VW for decades have had (over) complex intertwined computer programs so you want an appropriate (up to date) scan toll program to read and interrogate them. You always check and cross reference any information you get from anywhere including test results from a scan tool, don't believe all you see just because it's on some sort of computer. You test the test results to confirm them and always allow for machine and human errors.

Having a 2-amp charger instead of 4-amp isn't a bad thing other than paying the price difference. The 2 amp will obviously (edit) might take longer but if you have the time and patience it can give more of a Heineken effect but if you use the car everyday then 4-amp is more practical. I've got a 4-amp ring for my wife's 2015 Fabia (60Ah AGM) battery the updated version is as I linked to earlier, if you shop around you can get it at a lower price. I got mine (RSC804) at a lower price off an eBay provider, I dislike Amazon and unusually (not always) find I can get the same products for a lower price on eBay than Amazon. https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Obviously other products and providers are available.

I have no experience of these codes and there could be a few causes for them but unless you are able to investigate these codes on the vehicle and test their frequency and test and look for possibly causes I would walk away from that particular car and look for another example, or a different car (make and model possibly). Personally I'd be wary of any 2020 built car given Covid build and the lack of chips and build issues during Covid - not that I've seen here too many moans about 2020 Fabias, IIRC some 2018/19(?) Fabias have a few common faults. Others here may be able to give you more and better information, and different opinions. Good luck.

Hi, welcome.

OBDEleven video in your earlier post shows for later VAG cars Fleece option at 2:39 of video. If you have a 2019 car I would have thought you having an up to date OBDEleven program for your car (model and (part)year) would be best. AGM was an earlier selection for earlier cars and I would guess would work fine but best ask OBDEleven to confirm.

My mistake it's Lidl, I always confuse the two, Ultimate Speed Car & Motorcycle Battery Charger, £9.99 (instead of usual £14.99) and these chargers work fine as many have found out, a neighbour still uses a previous model that he got from at least before 2019. - https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/ultimate-speed-car-motorcycle-battery-charger/p10036322

Hi, welcome.

I don't now about Carista but the data input will be the same for all. Below is a cut and paste from an earlier post in another thread. The important things are to change the "serial number" often from VWŠkoda factory this will be ten ones (1111111111) so you can just increase to 1111111112. The type of battery, EFB or AGM (VW being VW call AGM "fleece") and make sure you put in the correct Ah. As you will se in my example below the three character manufacturer code is unimportant, I ignored it, but if you want three characters you can just leave what's in there already (or retype same if required) Below is from when a Briskoda member used his OBDEleven, 4 years ago, to 'code' the battery change on my wife's Fabia Mk3. As another example I've attached Varoom's notes for VCDS. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf Thinking of VCDS you might find another Briskoda near you with VCDS that could 'code' your battery for you for a beer token. See the map post and map here for details. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 With your new battery if you also do preventative recharges it to full using an appropriate battery charger maintainer and following the instructions in the car's 'owner's Manual' and for charger maintainer then this battery might last even longer than the previous (which might possibly outlast the car). Aldi do a £15 charger maintainer that's fine and it is/was(?) on special offer at £10, or for a bit more the update of the one I use for my wife's 2015 Fabia, Ring 904. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html HTH.

Yes a good idea I've been trying to promote this here for a few years now but some take offence to this idea for some reason(s). You don't have to do preventative recharges very often and best to have them get to full recharge for the sake of the battery, if not in one session then in more than one session. Having the charger remain in its box unused until the battery is very low isn't such a good idea. That sounds fine, possibly good or very good. Different places give different figures and they would depend on a few variables and circumstances - and state of charge is not state health for the battery, recharging the battery to full (100% of available) occasionally, or as required, will help to keep the state of health of the battery better and for longer. As put load testing is the real challenge - but then you'd want to recharge the battery to get it back to where it was before draining it. Figures from my ex-neighbour's Ring battery charger/tester. - 12.7v - 100% 12.5v - 90% 12.4v - 80% 12.3V - 70% 12.2v - 60% 12.1v - 50% 11.9v - 40% 11.8v - 30% 11.6v - 20% 11.3v - 10% VW Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V In in a modern VW (and BMW I expect) you should be able to get more than 4 years out of a battery, possibly a reasonable amount more years - but some VWŠkoda owners only get 4 years or even 3 years but it's the same as some people use more (and/or more wasteful with) electric in their cars and homes and some can get through their income more, and more quickly and if a car has lots of toys and heaters and you like to use them and perhaps sit in a parked up car chatting on the phone or other entertainment - so many variables with owners/uses let alone the car, weather, etc. Do bear in mind batteries like 20c weather and at 30c discharge themselves twice as much, and twice as much again at 40c, and when it's hot most use their air-con more so recharging isn't just for winter. If you change from summer to winter tyres and back again those two points would be a good time for preventative recharges to full. Good luck.

The important things are to change the "serial number" often from VWŠkoda factory this will be ten ones (1111111111) so you can just increase to 1111111112. The type of battery, EFB or AGM (as put VW being VW call AGM "fleece") and make sure you put in the correct Ah. Below is from when a Briskoda member used his OBDEleven, 4 years ago, to 'code' the battery change on my wife's Fabia Mk3. Personally I would not leave anything plugged into the OBD port for any longer than necessary. Always before plugging in a scan tool check the programs on it for your car (model and (part) year) are fully up to date and that it and the car's battery has plenty of charge to cover the period of use. The voltage reads in your post depend on where and what the OBDEleven is reading at/from on the car. What the readings are will vary depending on a few variables with the car, it's electric use and your electric use, the 12v battery and charging system (and of course the car's computer systems programs).

As the three cylinder has three plugs each is 33.3% contribution so if one has an issue that's a third contribution to possible engine issues so even more important to replace them before they go over or off too much.. The following (ETA: Fabia) video shows how straight forward the job of replacing the spark plugs can be (except for dealing with aged wunderbar VW fantastic-plastic bits perhaps) and I'd not use the plugs they mention or necessarily use mister auto for parts and not initially replace the new plugs by using other than hand to feel the threads mate correctly. Whilst doing this I would also replace the engine air filter and clean inside the air box and hoses whilst the air box is out of the car.

Well either I made a mistake - but I usually copy and paste in to the Google translator - or that's Google, it's American and they even have their own version and spellings of English. Information is power so as they hold the main power (at the moment) you Greeks will have to alter the way you talk, you've already accepted things like hood for bonnet and fender for wing. 😁 And we in UK have allowed and accepted the American invasion for many decades especially more recent decades, with AI things will accelerate to the white, male, "Christian" American way - unless the Chinese and/or Russians get to the American computer systems, the future looks bright. 😁

Sorry I don't keep them. As put how much goes in depends a bit on how thorough (or not) the emptying out is. ETA: just found this for capacities, see table in post at 31 March, 2023 - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511650-fabia-iii-12-tsi-manuel-engine-oil/#findComment-5745352

Fair enough. I don't ignore anyone as even those you don't agree with or don't like you can learn from. As you have felt the need to tell me this I will put, as you have also ignored others it may say more about you than me, or it may be the other way round. Your previous decisions on such as leaving threads were as permanent as a Donald J. decision. Until next time.

Drop down 'Author stats' has 2017 Octavia 2.0TDI Cri VRS - of course this may not be up to date or the car needing 'coding'. Mick, have a look at the VCDS map - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

Thoroughness is good as well as frequency/need. I like to drain as much old oil and stuff out as reasonably possible that way more fresh new oil is going back in and is less diluted by the residue of old oil and stuff. I like to drain the old oil out, of the drain plug hole as hot/warm as practical and leave it draining as long as practical. I then give it a small flush of warmed (solar or water) fresh new oil to act as a bit of final flush. I like the quality of Mann oil filters. On refill better to under fill then do small top-ups, leave to settle then and dipstick checks. I fill to about three-quarters up the dipstick mark and check and top-up next morning or after first drive. Ootohere has put up lists of engine oil capacities, for some reason VW don't seem to like owners knowing fluid capacities, and of course they have to have their own VW oil spec numbers and approved lists (which will vary with time and commercial contracts). I use Millers Oils EE Performance, not on the approval list AFAIK, I'm a rebel against VW. 😁

In that case that is probably as good as it will get from trying that free, easy, quick, clean-hands trick and adding air-con and blower to steering load was just to strongly convince the very dumb computers that the battery state of charge was fine. I have no idea if all 10 fields(?) need to be populated but I did as it was easy just to change the tenth 1 to a 2. Perhaps your Car Scanner Pro can show you information to confirm the charging details have gone to a new replacement battery fitted. For the front assist unavailable have you tried turning it off via the infotainment menu, drive a short distance and then turn ignition off for a short time and then turn ignition back on and turn front assist back on via the infotainment menu and short drive back. Another form of 'turning it off and on again' and quick, easy, next to no-cost, clean-hands thing to try. Might save introducing another computer and computer programming to sort things (Car Scanner Pro, OBDEleven or others). Other than another member 'coding' my battery with OBDEleven I have never seen them so sorry I have no idea about adjustment or reset with it. I can well imagine the VW computer getting upset from a low or high voltage or having a brain-fart so just needing a programming reset without physical adjustment. Perhaps just disconnecting it (at the wire connector) for a while and reconnecting in a 'switching it off and on again' sort of way might sort it - but I don't know that for sure (and no doubt someone will say if you do that there will be consequences on the car and/or half the streetlights in Germany will go out). Perhaps the actual source of the ACC fault is elsewhere and just showing there but you have only had electronic child lock and digital radio antenna show on your Car Scanner Pro, with two computer systems, the car and the scanner, either or both could have errors presented. The scanner at least needs its program for the car to be fully up to date before use on the car and scanner batteries in reasonable state of charge. My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 (without ACC or cc , thank gawd) has at least twice had the front "assist" unavailable for very brief periods when my wife was of driving and I wasn't in the car, I guess the first something like a leave causing obstruction and second time, in town, my wife saw a paper bag blowing on the road, might have been coincidence or the cause.

Difference is many folks in this thread are probably not trying con people, unlike the manufacturer that has been proved to - cough, VW dieselgate (10 years on now). Uhmmm, how's that square with VW dieselgate(!??!). 😁

Sorry, you have me at a loss, do you me me or someone else? In your image I see 2068 1/min for revs(?), no speed and 12.934v at something(?) something(?) 30 - I can barely read English let alone another language.

What critical functions !? I'm sue VW's wunderbar programming wouldn't allow the vehicle to be driven and give triangle of doom and other red warnings if something critical had been ignored, changed, or modified. You really are crutching at non-existent straws. You seem to miss a lot of what I (repeatedly) put or you'd know I never have, and very probably never would as I'm not a fan of the German marques generally, might consider for a short ownership Mk1 Golf GTi but then it's a tin-top so still limited in its appeal to me.

Definitely not a common problem or even uncommon problem, when did this first start, is this at different petrol pumps, are you trying to overfill the tank (not a great idea), is there a lot of grit/debris at the petrol filler bowl (under the screw end of petrol pipe cap). ETA - If there aren't any obstructions then if the car is still under warranty get them to test out fuel tank. - Sorry I forgot which forum I was in.

None of the VWŠkoda Dealerships (plural) paperwork including the bills (invoices), liesheets ticksheets, (complementary) Visual Health Checks mention anything about diagnostics or diagnostic checks or checking for updates. I'm sure the "carry out 8yr/80,000 mile service to manufacturers specification" they would say covered this - but - none of the other service or other works done at the Dealerships (plural) had this "to manufacturers specification" qualification, I expect they have this written on a display somewhere in the Dealership (possibly the Service manger's desk drawer(?). Even if they are different independent (that's a laugh) garages they could surely print invoices liesheets ticksheets, and (complementary) Visual Health to a standard VWŠkoda UK templates to include what should have been done or is in the possibility work scope (I don't expect spark plugs for a diesel).

The VW manufacturer tells you many things for many different reasons, most for their benefit rather than yours, the VW manufacturer also tells outright lies (10th anniversary of their programming achievement being officially caught out). They didn't even stick to their own battery 'coding' protocol at their factory as shown in the battery 'coding' of my wife's VW(Škoda) and other Briskoda members cars. The manufacturer also tells you (in the 'Owner's Manual' for my wife's 2015 Fabia) that "You should replace batteries older than 5 years" and 4 years in later manuals IIRC, John will be in trouble for keeping his 6.8 years!!

By the way in the battery 'coding' I had done for me by a Briskoda member with an OBDEleven scan tool system I didn't bother with the three character VW code for battery manufacturer and just had "BOSCH" put in but as the battery has only been in for just over 4 years I can't tell if that has shortened the battery life yet. Also note the factory couldn't even be bothered to put in the "serial number" instead like many others it is in as ten ones (1111111111) so the number was just changed by one digit to show a new battery installation. I have done other things with the battery other members have been very upset about me doing like fully charging the battery to 100% before installing it as they say the car's system will take it down to 80% which is correct but totally misses the point of fully charging the battery, they also get upset about me fully recharging the battery rather than only to 80% or leaving it all to the alternator (despite advice in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and more so with newer models, and they get very upset about other battery stuff I put yet my wife's car battery has yet to expire or explode or car's charging system fail (10 years old now, same as VW's programming achievement) nor has the car exploded or fell apart, well from anything to do with the battery or charging systems but as it's a 21st century VW(Škoda) other parts have prematurely failed and clonking and water getting in. 😄 As always each to their own, whatever helps you rest easy, believe as you wish, trust no one on the internet. 😄