nta16

The parameters in computer programs aren't always the best and VW certainly have an up and down history with their computer programs, one member posted that a professional auto-electrician put 7ah instead of 70ah when 'coding' in a new battery and the VW computer system allowed this, irony was the member could have 'coded' the battery himself but was too busy and left it to a professional.

You don't want to be mixing too many additives together. Note the application of the product you linked to - "Applic­a­tion To be added directly into the fuel tank. As a preventive measure, add during each inspection, after repairs on the fuel system and after each JetClean cleaning operation. The product mixes with fuel automatically. Contents of can are sufficient for max. 70 l of fuel.mm" So it is doing the same sort of thing as the additional cleaning additive packages in the higher octane lower ethanol petrols (in UK at least), if you can only buy petrol without the additional cleaning additive packages already in the petrol it could be a substitute for that. There are lots of different products about for different tasks offering different levels of success depending on what you are aiming to achieve, just two examples more. Cleaner and octane booster (not ethanol protection) - Millers Oils Petrol Power ECOMAX Fuel Treatment. - https://www.millersoils-shop.co.uk/petrol-power-ecomax For ethanol protection, but as far as I know it won't remove or deal with existing moisture in the tank or perhaps carb bowl - Classic Etha-Guard Plus. - https://www.classicoils.co.uk/additives

Sounds like 'hidden' fixings then possibly/probably screws, I can't make anything out from the photo other than clips-thingies.

Also helps if the engine air filter and airbox and tubing are clean to get as much petrol and air through and out of the engine to take any muck with it - although if it's a diesel and not very regularly run on "cleaner" diesel fuel and maintained well you would not want to be behind it, or in the general area (especially a VAG product, the cheating, lying . . .).

@Exkiwi you may be interested, you may not, you can save virtual post and page space by not having the search stream on an eBay item, you can delete all after the end of the item (itm) number, e.g. - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/387754420845 @Peter7705 Lidl were selling a similar (green) Parkside set of 14 for £7.99 or you can get a set of four plastic orange ones elsewhere. example only - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/277283535042 4-piece orange, example only - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305504503698

ETA: is your scanner fully up to date with program for your car and the car battery (and scanner) in a reasonable state of charge when checking? Have you checked with another scanner? Could it be the car's computer programs, or it's brain-fart.

As previous post and perhaps synchronise the keys after changing batteries (if you've not already done so). With these KESSY things keep the second/third key(s) (never have a "spare" key use both or three) in a tin so there's no competition and/or key(s) looking for car.

Other way round. For you and perhaps others maybe. You're shutting the gate after the horse has bolted and blaming the horse. You can obviously afford the costs and not worried about a bit of waste, you do what you want to do no-one is stopping you, but why not let others offer alternatives, these can easily be ignored or taken up. By the time a modern car has engine starting problems the battery is very low indeed, one of the last things to go, either the battery has been well drained in which case it might be easily recharged with the very simple method mentioned countless times or if the battery has been flogged far too often and far too long the chance of reviving the battery by recharging get significantly less and if the user is the type to keep repeating this behaviour then yes probably best to replace the battery - or if someone would just sooner replace the battery that's their choice but you'd hope they'd not moan about it. Loas test, as with any other test, should be repeated, first test might show reasonable, but if first test is very bad then the rare thing 'common sense' could be introduced. When are we getting off this roundabout, don't you ever get dizzy . . .

'They say' the stop/start batteries are for such use. Based on the evidence of the many threads and posts here and my 'logic' the batteries don't last as long as they could but as I put different people use different amounts of electric and the modern the car the more 'blessed' they are with gadgetry. With the newer models some owners have posted here about getting only 3 or 4 years out of the (expensive replacement) batteries. Most car batteries now I think are properly sealed, not like the former pretend ones where you could peel back the labels and take the cell caps off. Some have that floating ball 'magic eye' thing which I used to find unreliable but it get extra battery sales. The old and current battery testers could also be used to get extra sales, sometimes a bit like saying there's not much fuel left in the tank so the car will stop soon so you need to buy a new car. 😄 "Yeah, I've tested your battery and it's no good but we can fit you a new one" some RAC recovery men seem to do that, they must be on commission for their very expensive battery fitting service. The 12v batteries that VW fit to the VWŠkodas, I've seen mentioned here anyway, aren't that different at all to 50 years ago, bigger and heavier certainly but VW like that in their wide overweight cars. There seems to be all sorts of things 'they say' about what you can't do with these batteries or er, I don't know, you'll kill 'em, the car will be destroyed, you're taking the souls of others to hell, I've no idea. a long time back I put I always charge check and battery charger(maintainer) charge a new 12v battery to 100% full before I fit it to the car and some treated that as if I'd insulted their wives so I got a quote from the supplier of the battery (a well known supplier here) who put that was fine, but still that wasn't good enough so I gave up on that then. You can honestly get away with murdering the 12v battery on a modern car, keeping it below or well below a reasonable state of charge for the computers and other systems for months on end - then the battery fails so it must be a duff battery. 😄 A few times on here I've seen Dealerships (and garages) get a s/h car in and it's battery might be low, the car may sit unsold for a while then is sold and the buyer finds problems with the battery and the seller argues the battery is fine. They usually have far too much standing stock to worry about charging batteries. You'll be fine with your battery, as Ootofhere put you know the scores on the doors from your decades of experience and you seem to have read up about these "new" battery types. As I put before 3k-miles a year is high mileage to some of my neighbours, one has a 9 year old car with just turned past 9k-miles recently and the majority of the mileage was on the car when they bought it a number of years ago, they had a new large expensive battery fitted last year or year before, not part of the monthly paid servicing contract, no stop/start or VW product but (old-style) automatic.

Yes you don't want to break any of the wunderbar fantastic-plastic, particularly on the very fiddly wire connectors or bits in the engine bay (how "Simply Clever") but if you get something plastic like a kitchen spatula or buy the plastic interior trim tools set you can ease the plastic parts up, you'll soon get the feel of what will lift and what wont. I've just had a quick look at the rear door on a MK3 and it has screws - behind that door pull as Exkiwi put up for you, at the speaker cover at top rail area - and some other fastenings. Unless you can get some images it's one of those jobs you learn as you go along and forget how to later when you need to remove the door panel as the rear door seals has gone and lets water into the rear floor (another job I've got to fart about doing before the colder and wetter weather arrives, thank you 'German engineering'). Once you have done the job if you wanted to you could put up a thread on how to do it for others in the 'Skoda Fabia Guides' section - or perhaps you could look there for some guidance on previous models. For YouTube videos 'HatBoyHarvey' has good videos on the Mk1 and 'CarSpyTV' has good videos showing the use of those small interior trim tools in use on various cars and Fabia Mk3. 'Skoda Fabia Guides' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/167-skoda-fabia-guides/ 'CarSpyTV' - https://www.youtube.com/@CarSpyTV/videos 'HatBoyHarvey' - https://www.youtube.com/@HatBoyHarvey/videos HTH.

Have you taken that armrest panel off to see if any are hidden by it.

For you. Others get a lot longer - but there are many variables, including the person with the car and battery. Plus you might be somewhere very hot in Australia, the UK is only at the start(-ish) of that.

😄 You wanna get yourself a marketing job with VW or Ctek and at least get some money. I've been charging a 4-year old AGM battery with a 2023 (so-called) "smart" charger so the furthest my uniformed opinion goes back for practical and actual charging of a VW(Škoda) is to 2023. When the battery fails because of my uniformed opinion I'll let you know. 😉 VWŠkoda would have my wife change the battery on her 2015 model next year at 5 years old - if I've not killed it before then. 😄

Sounds like your short trips are longer then many other owners trips and you use less electric than some other owners (and probably less wasteful about the use). A 2019 Polo would (probably) have less comfort features and possibly less driver "aids" and "assists" than later years (thank gawd in my tastes) with perhaps the computers going into rest sooner after you park and lock up and you probably have less gadgets running with the car in use or parked up. In the VWŠkoda 'Owner's manuals' (well the ones I've looked at) it has to disconnect the battery if the car isn't used for 4-weeks and later 3-weeks (IiRC) this will be over cautious for some and perhaps good advice for others but they will generally be the ones to ignore it and the car will generally open and engine will generally start so reinforcing that things like this can be dismissed, which often they can - but of course the number one reason for breakdown call-outs is . . . Very few owners read the 'Owner's manual' (for anything if it's a Billy-big-*******s macho man, or many engineers or tradesmen) other than perhaps very rare occasional glances and of course now many they consult the internet for everything where they may well find the correct info, or near enough (or not). Some take great exception to me charging my wife's 2015 car 12v battery to 100%, seem to take it as a personal assault on them, and rightly point out the car's system will soon have it back to it's ay 80% charge but total missing or ignoring why I charge the battery to 100%. An occasional preventative recharge using my Ring 4-amp charger maintainer has taken up to 15 hours (IIRC) which also seems to upset some but my attendance in this is about 5-minutes including getting the charger out of the shed and hooking it up an, putting away again and very occasional glances from inside a warm, dry building. It's clean-hands, very easy, quick and comfortable 'work' which is very unusual when farting about with cars and I can be away from the car doing something more interesting than farting about with cars which for me is most things.

@Johngerard these VW stop/start cars will first not operate the stop/start system when the battery is too low for the computer system then if the battery isn't charged enough, by driving the car enough with enough net input to the battery, or using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the 'Owner's Manual' and for charger maintainer, then unexpected various issues, warnings and unseen error codes can follow. There are lots of threads and posts on Briskoda about this for the various models. It confuses some owners as they think the battery is fine because the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily on key turn / button press, but this is the last thing to go and by then obviously the battery is very low (but possibly can still be recovered for more reliable use but that depends on how much and how long it's been flogged). Modern cars are not like the older cars as the engine still starts even when the battery is far to low for the liking of the computer systems. Until 3 years ago, and for the previous 16 years, my one and only everyday (and all else) car was a 1973 MG Midget which was a basic car even when new had it been a few months older it would have had a dynamo rather than an alternator, four fuses in the box plus a factory inline. Previous to the MG Midget going back 15-20+ years from it I had various British 60s and 70s cars as everyday, commute, work, holidays and club events use so I've always known the importance of having a good battery in good condition as generally if the engine starts you could at least get home in the car. I was bought a battery charger by my neighbour in the 90s but only once had to use it in our old, or new, cars and that was totally my fault for flattening the battery trying to start it when I'd messed something up on the car - then my wife bought a VW stop/start product . . . Well done on getting 6.5 years out of the battery so far, VW want you to change the battery at 4(?) or 5 years (have a look in your 'Owner's Manual' and many owners don't get that far. Also one person's definition of a short journey is a reasonable length journey to another, I'm use to neighbours' car doing less than 1,000 miles or less a year some hardly into hundreds, two at the moment have been months without being driven.

A very common thing for criminals to do, unlicensed pool cars, or even through a "company" for other scams. "Law abiding citizens" who only buy knocked-off or counterfeit goods, or recreational drugs help promote such activity, often middle-class people, perhaps VW owners, or those that bang-on about law and order (for others not like themselves). Those that put up a photo of their car with the registration showing on t'web or social media also help makes things easier for criminals cloning regs. I'm not sure what the Police can do about it as the cars and registrations are often only used short term until they're hassle or no use. You could check with your insurer to see if they can offer advice as the clone car can get into a lot more than put parking violations. You number plate and car details could be sourced from so many sources and places (very much expected in the main cities too). Most people wouldn't believe the number of different scams and cons knock about and how easy they are to pull off but there's no point in being paranoid about it, if they're going to do it they will just don't make assumptions on what's safe or fully protected and what can or can't happen or will or won't happen. Also never underestimate the incompetence of companies and organisations, always check your paperwork and digital forms sometimes if a mistake gets in the system it can be awkward to get it out and if you didn't originally check the info you probably signed (in some way) to say you did. Then of course there's the in-house fiddling . . . contractors not checked, staff, ex-staff and on and on. - or it might just be a one-off incident now.

Hi, welcome. There are lots of similar posts and threads on here with problems (from vehicle not being used) that you can look at - most important are brakes!, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.) number plates (see and be seen) then perhaps engine and transmission. Is the engine original ("Petrol 1.6 litre VW Engine AEE MPI (Magneti Multi Point Injection 1598cc, 8v, SOHC) 55 KW 75 PS 5 Speed Manual Gearbox")? Your possibly causes look, er, possible, add in (indirectly perhaps) if old petrol was left in (and perhaps even E10 wot it don't want, keep filling the petrol tank with higher octane E5 with added cleaning package as per pdf attached below, and Sainsbury's 97 not on list). And then get the engine fully warmed, for a reasonable time then drive it at sensibly higher revs, say 4,000, not high speeds, for a good number of miles 20-50 miles. If that proves an improvement repeat, Have you changed the engine air filter and cleaned the air box and tubing, changed or at least checked the spark plugs, changed the engine oil &filter (fuel filter?)? For Italian tune-up you can start with fuel filter(?), engine air filter and box and tubing. Careful of new parts like lambda sensor, that has to be correct one rather than generic and things like new modern made rotor arms (and other parts) can be ****-poor quality, if the old parts are OK hold on to them just in case they're better worn than the modern made parts new. If the rotor arm wasn't bad I'm not sure why the second mechanic changed it as that usually relates to misfires and starting. You could check the ECU to make sure it's not damp/wet/crudded-up. HTH. Let us know how you get on. petrol.pdf

Mike just FYI a post is er, one post and the whole lot of posts is the the thread, e.g. this thread has the title "Stop/Start issue / Battery Question". Threads can be added to (and revived) years after the last post. Somewhere I put a post with the voltage on the 4-year old (AGM) battery of my wife's 2015 the morning after the day before when it was charged to full, I can't remember for sure but think it was 12.6V then. It depends on how long and how many times the "power consumption too high" has been up to the possible state of charge and state of health of the battery but if you follow consistent use of the battery charger maintainer to full battery recharge you'll soon learn if the battery is getting worse by its recovery and time to dropping again (allowing for use, abuse and neglect each time) and by consistent testing the next day. No doubt we went through all the alternatives in the other thread. It was the 16.65 that caught my wonky eye.

You might be better looking and/or asking in the 'Škoda Enyaq' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/399-skoda-enyaq/ HTH.

I assume the photo just shows a trial fit as the grommeted sleeve isn't fitted into the circular bracket on the damper. If the steering turns fully both ways without touching the lead I think same as you that the second grommeted sleeve isn't needed. It might be a photo but the second grommeted sleeve appears (to me anyway) to have a smaller grommet part so perhaps is to make the generic sensor fit a range of cars with different size circular bracket(s?). I don't know with the ABS but other sensor can be very particular about having the exact correct sensor - IIRC I saw a Merc owner had fitted generic ABS sensor to an older model and it worked fine. Obviously current Felicia owners will know better or for sure.

Other appropriate scan tools will do the flap resets too. Climatronic is just another load of computer stuff to go wrong to me, and it seems the manual settings unit might give more pleasing air-con to some owners.

Yes sorry I totalled missed your name, I remember now you got the (to me over-priced and perhaps over-valued) CTek. I'm not sure where you took the voltage readings but 16.65 sounds a typo. 12.2v depends when and how you took the reading but if it was with a digital multimeter a good number of hours after the battery had been charged and the car's system were awake then you could add say 0.2v or 0.3v to allow for that taking the battery to say 12.4v or 12.5v which is Ok(ish) but not great IF you recharged the battery to full (100% of what it can do). It really depends on hold well and long the battery holds that charge and how well it can be used (the drop test mentioned earlier in the thread). Batteries do age but also it depends on their use, abuse and possible neglect as to how well you might be able to recover them, if they've been flogged too much and/or too then their recovery will be less, recharge(s) left too late (or too little). Check the battery again, after the car hasn't been used for a good few hours or if used not long ago turn the headlights on for 60 seconds to take off the surface charge to give a truer voltage. When comparing readings consistence of equipment, method and conditions is important.

For a garage perhaps, this report of the battery's death might be exaggerated. But in your case you can ignore what anyone or machine says and go by your experience. They should have replaced your battery before they handed the car over to you or certainly when you made a repeated complaint about it but obviously they were hoping to get away with it and you buy a new battery, at least they saw sense (or gave in) in the end. Do remember the new battery is newer but still a store that can be depleted so at some point (hopefully not too soon) need charging by driving or use of an appropriate charger maintainer. You will get (many) more years out of this new battery than an average owner by when required preventative (low, slow) recharging with an appropriate charger maintainer. Good luck.

ETA: just realised the first paragraph here might have been covered in another thread (missed your member name) - Try a long charge of your existing battery first, it might take many hours, overnight or perhaps more but patientive and time are good, low amperage charging (3,4, 5-amp charger maintainer). If you can't do it in one session do it in two or three if required, get the battery to it 100% - even if the car only wants 75-80% it'll be better for the battery to be at 100% of recharge. The message will be to warn that your concussion is too high for the 'power' in the battery and what the alternator can keep up with and charge the battery. Usually it means the state of charge in the battery is low and the battery needs charging. Think of it like spending too much for what's in your bank account (without overdraft available) you either need to slow down your spending or put more money into your bank account. High electric consumers are electric power-steering, air-con, blower, heaters perhaps - or accumulative effect of constant low drain items like something you leave plugged in or switched on when the car engine (so alternator) not running. HTH.

ETA: UK Government website confirms Felicia 1.3 is not suitable foe E10. Its particularly not good if you don't use the Felicia frequently as t likes to pulling moisture, I can't remember if the E10 petrol it goes off quicker or not, certainly a PITA for petrol 4-stroke garden tools. https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/%C5%A0koda