nta16

CU_CUK_FP 26 021.pdfThere are still some good mechanics about and people acting decently in the motor trade but they're fewer and further apart now than even than the past and they often have enough work that they don't need to work weekends and have waits for their services. Sorry to hear of your breathing difficulties because modern cars are so (over) big (and heavy) that they have lots of glass area on then for solar gain and the air movement in them far less, the ventilation system in my wife's Fabia in particular doesn't suit my wants or needs, with and without air-con on. As your car is over a year old and regardless anyway you might want to look at what cabin filter is fitted and if and the area are dirty and if it's a cheaper sort than for your needs. I going with Mann filters as I've always found them good (engine oil and air filters and cabin filter) they do a "Biofunctional! "FreciousPlus" cabin filter and have guide fitting notes with them. That filter. - FP 26 021 - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue/search-results/product.html/fp26021_mann-filter.html And "Mounting instructions" (hopefully VW ones at the end of the leaflet). - CU_CUK_FP 26 021.pdf Hope this might help a bit whilst you wait. ETA: if it was out of warranty I might have another suggestion but unfortunately the Dealerships can be arsey enough with warranty work or helping their customers without giving them what they consider more get-out clauses.

I see you have been here before, sorry I forget, so I might have covered engine oil before (do I now remember yours was your dad's car(?)). Here is a thread on wrong sensor showing low gauge readings which might also be the resolve to your low readings or on the same theme at least and there are other threads and posts about which colour ring on the sensor for different years (models?) too which you can search for. Hope this helps.

By forums I meant the different relevant forums and sections on Briskoda rather than on other websites, though other sites may have help. Personally I find the site search facility awkward to use as I can never thing of the right search terms so I use Google which often brings up threads and posts on Briskoda anyway ass they have just a little more money and resources than Briskoda for search facilities (and Google understands my very bad mispeelings misspellings. 😁 I remember seeing threads and posts about towbars in that Briskoda forum so hopefully someone will be able to help you there. All the best, Nigel.

Maybe I misunderstand what you mean by shorten the two wires, I thought you meant you were cutting the wires back to get to clean solid cores to make good electrical connection to the connector (rather than any temperature or other adjustment). By all means test the sensor at boiling water it will confirm at one temperature point at least how this translates to the gauge is a different matter. Switches tend to be faster reaction than the old metal thermostats and the old metal thermostats are built with an allowable tolerance of range, so one 82C old metal thermostat may begin to open and close and be fully open and closed at slightly different temperatures to another 82C old metal thermostat. The rating on a metal thermostat is a nominal temperature at which it starts to open (not when fully open). The sensor will also have a range of tolerance, much less usually than the old metal thermostats. So don't expect them to be too close in temperature, plus where they are located and surroundings make a difference. I should have also asked if you flushed the coolant system and then put a coolant system cleaner in, drained that out and flushed, back-flushed and flushed again, the radiator, engine block and heater matrix. Any internal coolant system debris needs to be loosened off and fully flushed out to stop in going around the coolant system and setting elsewhere and perhaps potentially partially or fully blocking an area. Some times the water comes out cleanish because it's just running past the debris, hence the cleaning and back-flushing. Clearing out the engine block and heater matrix are very often overlooked because of concentrating on the radiator. As well as internally the radiator needs to be clear externally, gentle brushing to remove any external debris and the radiator need a clear path for the fresh air to get to it, even putting badges, plaques, spotlights, etc. in the way can cause restrictions and lessen the cooling to the area. Even if the car is stationary with the engine running the radiator is helping with the cooling by dispersing some heat, obviously the lack of air movement from the car moving does mean there is less cooling effect but the water pump is circulating the coolant around the system and the electric fan will switch on when required to provide air movement. If you are in a hot country you may want wider margins for cooling the engine rather than lessening the margins by delaying the operation of the fan - what exactly do you mean by shorten the two wires? Oil is also an engine coolant and in hotter (and/or colder) weather temperature countries a better quality (usually but not always fully synthetic) engine oil (and gearbox oil) can give greater protection by wider margins and longer lasting margins. I am not sure why you need to worry too much about your gauge you are used to its readings so know when the engine coolant temperature at its usual running reading. Nice to have it more accurate but perhaps it is just the connections between the sensor and gauge that just needs the wires and connections cleaning and perhaps securing. IIRC there are threads and posts here that cover the coolant temperature gauge working.

Yeah it's bad they didn't sort it first time but you will have to take it back to them or another VWŠkoda Dealership if you want this sorted under warranty. You could ask the Dealership if there are any Recalls (VW avoid these usually) or any technical bulletins (TPI? TBS?) on the issue, they keep those quiet, but just asking might show your greater level of intent to get this sorted. Nowadays many rely on the computers giving the answer to them on a plate and/or firing the parts cannon at the car rather than any real interrogation of the information the computers supply and doing diagnostics from that information and using other diagnostics tools (particular the biological electronics they have between their ears). Good luck. Let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome Trevor. Er, yes, you might be daft, but hopefully at least it'll keep you out of trouble. 😁 My Skoda ownership only goes back to 1985 and like you I wasn't a fan of the VW style of corporate Dealerships getting rid of the friendly helpful small back street Škoda Dealerships and the car quality actually went down when VW fully took over. Other than perhaps a Golf GTi Mk1 I've never been a VW fan, or German marques generally. I don't know if you saw there's a 'Classic Škoda' section of Briskoda where your knowledge and experience could be very helpful indeed. Only yesterday I was asked if the head bolts need changing with the head gasket (on a 135 engine IIRC) and as I didn't know for sure I didn't want to guess and now I have to search the threads and posts there to confirm what I guess. 'Classic Škoda' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/173-classic-%C5%A1koda/ In the mid-80s the(friendly and helpful back street ) Škoda Dealership lent me their "flagship of the fleet" Mk1 105 Estelle which they told me they couldn't kill and it's wiliness made up for it's lack of speed but boy was it's steering heavy compared to the Mk2(s) I had. All the best, Nigel.

Hi, welcome Julian. Well done on your purchase. Such a very low mileage has many advantages to the actual age of the car, I have a neighbour with a 2016 Vauxhall with the same mileage. It does require that the car has been fully maintained and serviced in a timely manner as such low mileage and perhaps infrequent use can disproportionately effect some items, engine oil being one perhaps. Hopefully you have seen the 'Škoda Yeti' forums section of Briskoda where you can find lots of information about the model in threads and posts there and if necessary by asking the knowledgeable Yeti owners there. If you read and refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you can often save yourself time, hassle and expense and avoid visits to Dealerships. garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and be able to point out this source of knowledge and what you already know. Good luck.

The temperature gauge didn't have figures to save unnecessary worry and concern to driver/owners. Normally the needle I believe would be at (above) the yellow line, possibly higher in hotter climates, how accurate you gauge is and your coolant thermostat, and fan switch are only you can tell by testing them but if your car was previously running fine wherever the needle pointed that is was normal for your car and gauge. Variation from this normal is to be investigated particularly if the engine is running hot (or cold) regardless of where the gauge needle points. I don't know if your coolant thermostat opening at the green line is correct or not but I would expect the fan to switch on above the yellow line on a different car to yours but I am not a 1993 Favorit owner or driver (it has been 30+ years since my wife owned a Favorit). Shortening the two wires may have improved electrical contact, if so it is a good thing. The 82c thermoswitch has to be correct for your model and year and be a good quality part (many modern made parts are not good quality and some are very poor quality or worse). If I am correct I believe with other Škoda models of that period at least you need to get the correct colour plastic band on the thermoswitch. Good that you flushed the engine, did you also flush the radiator and if possible or appropriate flush the heater matrix too. At motorway speeds in other cars the needle would be above the yellow line let alone the green line but if the fan comes in when it should and you have no signs of overheating then I suspect it is as you think and the gauge reads low. I had a car where the thermostat was almost right next to the thermoswitch and neither agreed with the other about temperature, the level of accuracy and tolerance to acceptable margins could be wide. Plus by the 1990s coolant temperate gauges could be biased to go to a certain showing and stay there regardless of real life fluctuations of actual readings. Combined (mechanical) oil pressure and coolant temperature gauge for a 1960s British car. Coolant (electric sender and gauge) for a 1970s British car, markings left off to save drivers' worry (not that the gauges were very accurate anyway).

Yeah, corporate and personal greed, yet another American influence to our country, not that we didn't have some of it home-grown just not on the industrial scale as the "land of opportunity". Our house builders were on to it fairly well back, split the company up one part selling to another to gain profit and avoid tax that one ding the same to another going down a chain, buy a bit of land sit on it for decades, sell it to yourself and get all your different companies to do different bits until the end product of are finally available to sell, but perhaps even have someone retain the land. Motor trade is very incestuous and gives an illusion of a wider range of choice than actually exists. Remember 2008, where are those that made the mistakes and where are those that are paying for their mistakes. Life's a bitch and then you die. 😄 Last time I had some rust removed from my old car I said to the chap that ran the business (took over from his mum and dad) that there wasn't a replacement or repair section for the bit of bodywork with the rust and he said they didn't need them as they could make their own, second generation repairer and probably last.

The info I saw for that part number seems confused perhaps it was superseded, one shows H& bulb plus LED daylight running lights other and what you put suggests to me it might be full LEDs and I'd be guessing rather than knowing and can't check now. So I'll leave this for someone that does know for sure or can check, sorry.

What type of headlight is it LED, that self adjusting thing or old incandescent?

Occasional preventative recharges with an appropriate battery charger following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and in the booklet for the charger maintainer. Or if the car is to be lefty for weeks without use (not good for the car or battery) then disconnect the battery or connect up the charger maintainer to both recharge and maintain. Up to you which charger maintainer you choose to buy and use, personally I think the CTek are overrated, over priced and valued based on the two copies of the same CTek model a mate has which giving varying results to each other, not good for the high price - but many users like them. Lidl/Aldi sell perfectly good and long lasting charger maintainers for £15-£20, a neighbour's had one in regular use for years. and I've known of plenty of others that have bought them and use them. High price doesn't give much higher quality, I've had a cheap charger for 40+ years, stills works fine now. I bought and have used for a few years now a Ring 804 Smartcharger for my wife's 2015 VWŠkoda Fabia Mk3 the current model is 904. 4-amps is more than enough, it takes a little longer but generally lower amps is better than higher (faster) amps for the battery. Other makes. models and suppliers are available. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Batteries like about 20C weather temperature and IIRC self-discharge twice as much at 30c and twice as much again at 40C, plus at those temperatures the air-con is going to be used more so bear in mind recharging for summer as well as winter. Some recharge at the same time they swap to or from winter tyres. I always recharge to the Ring showing "FUL" even if that takes two sessions as the VW battery computer system only goes to about 80% to allow for regenerative top ups from braking and the battery will appreciate going to 100% even if the computer system will have it back to about 80%. Less wear on the battery means less work and wear on the alternator as they work with and for each other. HTH. Good luck.

Hi, welcome Fredric. Sorry I don't have a clue about towbar wiring but see you have posted in the Fabia Mk3 forum, if you don't get a reply there or see any relevant threads with a search (via Google back to Briskoda can often work best) then also have a look or search and/or ask in the Audio, Electronics and Security forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/ HTH.

Bold italics added to highlight what I put before you continue with your mistake. Spot the similarities. I was referencing Ootohere's post where he's put up the driving info for the filter from the 'Owner's Manual', something I often do but Ootohere had already done this. I hope you're not trying to jump on to a running bandwagon and tripping yourself up but just making a mistake or two as I do many times a day. 😁

I'm a bit lost, did you charge the new off the car before fitting it to the car or charged it up after fitting to the car (following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and charger maintainer manual. VW computer system only want to go to about 80% charge leaving room for energy recovery from braking to charge the battery, part of VW's pretence at more fuel saving and lowering emissions on large, heavy cars with over-sized wheels and tyres often only carrying the driver or one passenger. Then you are trusting two computer systems for a read out. On a modern car the battery is very low when it has difficulty starting the engine, by this time the car's computers would be moaning and throwing up warnings and unseen error codes and probably giving all sort of unexpected issues. Before you connected the battery did you check the terminal post clamps were clean on the inside or clean them if required, battery terminal posts were clean, the terminal clamps were securely fitted to the battery terminal posts. Have you checked the voltage from the alternator with engine running. Do you have a constant drain like an added device to the car which remains switched for long periods when the engine (is and) isn't running. Have you checked the battery 'coding'. For some comparison, at 2-3 years old when I connect the 4-amp charger to the 60 Ah AGM battery in my wife's car (the one 'coded' on 25/6/2021 above) it took about 4-5 hours to top it up when it's wasn't really low and about 14-15 hours on a cold winter's night when it's was a bit lower but higher than most would bother to recharge it.

I'm not an expert in anything so I'd check with other Mk3 Octavia owners on the forum on this site what makings they have on their factory original heated windscreens. I see the VW AG but no VW or Škoda emblem or logos and as Berisford has pointed out it seems the same as that one on the Polish site which has it as a "SIESCAM" / SISECAM which might be perfectly good heated screen and possibly a supplier to car manufacturers but I've no idea or if they supply to VWŠkoda with a Škoda emblem. As well as asking other Mk3 Octavia I'd test the screen heating in same or similar way to Geoff's suggestion. Apologies to @s88urd i missed your post and so just echoed what you had already put.

Yes AFAIK. Have a look at this chaps vids IIRC I've seen him do it (not necessarily to a VW) or I'd expect there will be other vids on the internet of varying quality of information and presentation. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 HTH. Good luck.

If you've not already done so you could look those codes up on the internet and see video for general information and possible routes to fixes. Or depending on how far you want to go yourself have a look at the diagnostic techniques this chap uses, there are plenty of others but to me this chap seems thorough and admits when he makes mistakes and shows real world working. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354 HTH. Good luck.

AG Falco looks after his cars far, far above average., I too would certainly buy one of his cars if I wanted that type of car. As a non-VW or VWŠkoda fan whose wife bought a 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI 90ps SE 5-speed manual at 18 months old (10k-miles) I can give you my experiences with that and very general info from what I've read on Briskoda of later Mk3s. Current mileage is something over 70k-miles (I forget figure). 1.2 (4-pot) engine is fine, VW 4-pots have always sounded a bit rough to me and I'm used to BMC/BL engines of the 60s/70s and no doubt the 3-pot sound worse but the 1.2 90PS is very capable. Normally there's just the one or two of us in the car but the few times there's been 4 (reasonable weight) adults in the car the extra weight has been noticeable to me a bit (as a previous driver of cars much lighter than lardy modern cars, particularly VWs) but still very capable. There are various sounds from the engine bay at various time but if you have a VWŠkoda already you they won't matter to you. On my wife's car and other earlier Mk3s the front dampers are poor quality and "mist" oil potentially just about from brand new, well that was the case with the replacement dampers the Dealership fitted (to replace the factory originals that "misted" enough to fail their MoT at 6 year old and 41k-miles). There has just about always been noises from the underside when going over traffic calming and up and down potholes, very bad on my wife's car in the very cold of winter, others have had the same and spent money, time and hassle on unsuccessfully trying to resolve it by replacing obvious parts so I've not bothered and it passes MoTs (not that MoTs mean that much as you possibly know). Interior fabric on my wife's car isn't the best quality but it's holding up fine. The UK VWŠkoda cambelt con was dropped a couple of years ago (too late for us unfortunately). Brakes and tyres won't be factory at 100k-miles so that's just usual s/h car stuff. You could look and see which models and years had the fuel rail bolts shear I can't remember it being on the 1.2 but I could well be wrong. There was a battery recall which I think would be more about VW ballsing-up the battery program rather than any battery. The newer the car the more important maintaining a reasonable battery state of charge becomes if you don't want warnings and a short life to the expensive battery. Just prior(?), during and after Covid years radio quality seems to have dropped and perhaps other issues (starter relays that doesn't like the cold on some 2018(?) 2019(?) models. Throttle body issues on some others - see the threads and posts on here for details. It appears to me the Mk1 Fabias were well made then general overall quality drops off with the Mk2 and later Mk2 and perhaps more so with the Mk3 but that's not to say the Mk3s are bad cars generally overall they are good within reasonable expectations (but I'd always think to look for an older Toyota or Honda for the same money if I ever wanted such a car). With a turbo it's history particular what VWSkoda call a "service" and their "maintenance schedule" timely work to these would be a minimum standard (rather like an MoT) (very, very few people would work to AGFalco schedule in my decades of experience). I changed the "filled for life" coolant on my wife's car and would do so on a 100k-mile car and I changed the manual gearbox oil on my wife's car and would certainly on a 100k-mile car unless it was under say 5-6 years old. I use a bit better oils than VW suggest and my wife noticed an improvement on the gear changes. The engine also now benefits from better oil now I'm able to do those too. As always you also buy on condition and be aware that a car with good cosmetics could be a poor runner or hidden faults and a scruffier car could have excellent mechanics, electrics/electronics. HTH. Good luck

I can understand your your loss of faith in the car, and I'm no VW fan, but things might not be anywhere near as bad as you might think and very easily recoverable at no real monetary cost (little electric, some small amount of petrol) Modern cars don't suit short journeys and infrequent suitable use - but that's what many of them get so adding in things like motorway or spirited back roads driving and very occasional preventative battery recharges can avoid some issues. The state of charge of the battery can be too low for the car's computer systems even if the headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts, the engine will start even if the battery is very low, far below what the computers systems like. All sorts of unexpected warnings, unseen error codes and issues can be from just the battery being too low for the car's computer systems there are numerous threads and posts where this has been found to be the case. The stop/start not being active when it should is the first warning that the battery state of charge is too low, if this is missed or ignored for too long and/or too often then the battery gets progressively further from full recovery. Driving the car even on the motorway nay not always be fully sufficient as it depends on how much electric is being used and/or or low and worn the battery is. Check the state of charge of the battery, better still fully recharge the battery to 100% using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for the battery charger maintainer. Lower amps charger (say 4-amps) will take longer to fully recharge the battery but generally will give a better recharge and if you can't fully recharge the battery in one go take two or three. Or it may be better for you to just have the reassurance of buying a new battery (and getting it 'coded in correctly). Personally I always fully charge the new battery to 100% before fitting to be sure that is the way they start when first fitted to the car (it shouldn't take too long as a new battery charged off the car). Just getting the existing battery to a reasonable state of charge and following the driving instructions for the particle filter should help you at least in the short term. And you certainly want to check when the spark plugs and engine oil filter were lasted changed but that's just engine more important obviously is service and maintenance of brakes (fluid, pads, discs, tyres) and tyres (tyre age, wear/damage (tread and sidewalls), wheels). Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Unfortunately I have a few decades experience of the English motor trade and a lot of the experiences aren't good to bad or very bad and even cons so that's why I started doing work on my cars myself as often I could do a better job just because I cared more to and I'm mechanically inclined or can do brilliant work plus I loathe(d) working on our own car(s) (but don't mind doing small jobs on other people's car). If you need any general advice on working on old cars I can offer very general advice, one point is always take your time, be patient and double and treble check before, during and after doing the work. I once fitted a clutch cable to my FIAT in a mate's garage and when I asked my mate to start the car so we could check the clutch worked OK the car leapt forward as I had put fitted something back-to-front, good thing it was a very short car otherwise it might have hit the rear wall. Goes to the old adage "measure twice cut once", or in my case check thrice, obviously I none neither or well enough that time. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Interesting this ties in with what another poster has put, with a different VWŠkoda model, with EFB+ and 49Ah. My wife's 2015 Fabia manual, 90ps, SE the batteries were offered at 60Ah to 70Ah, perhaps another reason the batteries don't last as longer on the more recent cars - or for VW fans perhaps the EFB+ batteries are so much better than the previous EFB batteries they fitted (and/or perhaps VW have improved their alternators and starter motors).

Then don't, save your time and energy. That's because you left it too late. If you hadn't had left it so long you could have got many more years reliable use out of the battery with very, very little, very very easy (not even) work. Why did you bother with the Ctek in the first place. Yes I will, thank you. Yes you do waste money when you don't have in regard to the $400 batteries. Who said it wasn't(?). Not necessarily - but I put up the vid to hopefully amuse you and build a bridge but it didn't work, my mistake. Up to you what you do, forget me but if you tone down and turn down some of the stuff you put you could possibly get along with more posters more often. You can ignore me and I'll try to ignore bits you put I don't like, 'ow's that for a deal.

. . . part two . . . VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manuals' used to put to change the battery at 5 years and later I believe changed to 4 years (VWŠkoda car warranty is only 3 years in UK) but some owners/drivers only get to just over 3 years before they (think) they need to change the battery. Other owner/drivers get many more years out of the battery with very little (very easy effort). The 12v battery is one of the most oversold car parts because of batteries being changed prematurely and very prematurely but it's each to their own if if someone wants to buy an expensive battery and possibly also pay for the 'coding' that is their choice just seems a waste of money and resources particular if it's also through a lack of knowledge to make a more informed choice. But I do fully understand that sometimes it's personally better to pay out to avoid hassle, "hassle money" was a term a mate used in his business. Unfortunately here many that used to use the old across the terminals gauge would sell you a new battery even if the one you had was OK. @Exkiwi for you if you're interested, see from 6:42 on this video for a load tester from before the days of H&S, the amusing but always informative John twist, dealing with very old British cars in the US of A, some that used double 6v batteries to get 12v, different case materials and other stuff from way back - but the principals remain the same. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UnbQ2G5K2zI

Sorry but that's not correct. It maybe an indicator of the car's owner/driver use, abused and/or neglect of the battery through not knowing and understanding or caring, that's the more likily. A battery is getting quite low, or has been taken quite low, to get to the stage of Xmas tree dash lights but often a full(to 100%) recharge of the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer and following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual@ and charger's instructions can revive the battery for much more reliable use. Of course if the battery has been flogged too much and or too frequently then the chances of useful revival diminish possibly to a point of no return. The stop/start is the first thing to not work and this is a first early warning, if ignored continuously then things progress badly. Far too many owner/drivers think if the headlights seem brighter enough and the engine starts then the battery state of charge can't be too low for the computer systems but by the time the battery has difficulty starting the engine the battery has been flogged badly and if the engine can't be started by the battery unless it's a one-off drain t he battery has been flogged to near death if not practical death. VW . . . (rocks, press the wrong key again, part two to follow)