nta16

Do you know anyone with a gas analyse or vacuum gauge, but bear in mind you set the fuel mixture at the end of that ignition chain so need to check (recheck, double check, treble check) all the other items in that before using a gas analyse or vacuum gauge. Is this some sort of anti-run-on valve? If you did not set or check them, or even if you did, after fitting the new head gasket it should be checked as first item in that chain of ignition checks. Haynes manuals are Ok-ish but like all information and databases they do contain errors and omission so do check and cross reference any information given in it. I had two copies of Haynes for my last car as it was produced and many changes over 21 years of production and neither copy of Haynes covered my year of model completely and had errors and omission in the information. Haynes was more for bigger job repairs service and maintenance work was best covered by the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual). If you do not already have a copy then ask the other posters about availability of the Owner's Manual for your car as it will tell you so much about your car and most of it not in a Haynes. You may also be able to get the factory workshop manual for your car but I don't know, again ask the others. Also bear in mind all information even from manufacturers can have errors and omissions too. The rear drum brake set up drawing was incorrect in the factory workshop manual, a well known error, but only if you knew. You could check the spark at the king lead (HT lead from coil, perhaps in your Haynes it has a troubleshooting flow diagram or table at the end of the chapter with ways to check. Bear in mind the coil can be effected by heat or it warming up too much, generally they are very reliable and last decades, unless perhaps it is quite new, is it a good make or an unknown brand. Breezy_Pete and others will know more and better than me about things like this. Good HT lead sets are not expensive but if the Chinese set is working well stick with them for now but any signs or suspicions they are not then I would replace them as they can be difficult to tell if they are reliable and always fully working, just putting a meter on them to test them can give a false positive, that is they seem OK on the meter at that point in time but in real life work in the engine bay they may not. You do not need to buy the sexy silly high priced HT leads just good quality ones again they should last very many years trouble-free so a good investment and reassurance. In the UK 98 (RON) would be E5 both can cause issues for old fuel systems that have not been refreshed and if the car sits around for weeks and months. You can get additives for cars up to 2011 to help counter potential issues, generally it has to be stored and administered correctly, and the one I had used within 2 years of date stamp which is easy enough if you actually use the car. If the fuel pump has a filter you could perhaps check that. As I put I think I could see a fuel filter at the bottom of the engine bay but presumably tat is after the fuel pump. It can also be water from the car sitting around a lot and only being used for short journeys, hopefully gone now not to return but it is a very simple and quick check to make. Also I think those caps have a rubber seal that you want to check is in good condition. Many original parts were better quality (not all by any means) so last a very long time with trouble-free use. This bring me on to engine oil (and gearbox oil) since the car was built oils have improved so just because the car is old does not mean you need to use an old oil or cheap low quality oil, more like the reverse, because the car is old it needs the greater margins of protection and great and longer lasting protection of better quality modern oils in case things go wrong as they can when old cars are actually used after years of little or no real use. Lots of old cars that look good do not run well whereas a scruffy looking old car can be a very good runner. Something we have not seen is the engine air filter, it is important that the air filter and air filter box are reasonably clean as the engine is basically a large air pump. Sometimes a filter looks clean until you compare it against a new filter. These old engines tend to love regular and timely engine oil and oil filter and engine air filter changes. This is not a service for even just the engine let alone the car. Of course the engine is not the most important thing on the car that is the braking system. The order is brakes, steering suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, blower, etc.), windows and mirrors and reflective number plates (see and be seen) and towards the end of importance engine and transmission. As the car is new to you I suggest you carry out a full 60,000 km / 120,000 km / 180,000 km service on the whole car as soon as possible but staggered over time with driving the car in-between to learn about the car and how to drive it and pick up on any issues and learn what you can get used to and live with. The staggered service work will also pick up issues and potential issues and prevent them. As the improvements from full and proper whole car servicing are incremental you may not notice them but anyone who has only driven the car before all the work and after all the work will probably notice a good difference if you have done all the servicing and maintenance and repairs and done them well. There are not too many reasons why potentially the car could not run better now than when it was only a few years old with the improvements in the intervening years. Good luck.

It was the reg she put wrong. A simple mistake and definitely one I'm capable of. The insurer may have been a bit hard but we don't know how the "old gurl" treated the insurers when dealing with them about this. Her attitude on camera was it wasn't her fault at all and she's old and dealing with computers, yet she managed to get the insurance done for the two years. In another life I used to deal with "uld gurls" from Northampton and they are not all sweetness and light I can assure you and older generation born and breed Norf'm'tun folk are among the most insular, miserable folk on earth, I know as I've lived here since I was 12. I've now joined them somewhat and find I can let my empathy slip with employees I deal with. My wife still deals with an over-50s-club in her work and they are very entitled and moaning, I call them MOBs, moaning old bags for the "uld gurls" and moaning old b*st*rds for the "uld boys". My wife is sometimes a consumer MOB and it's a standing joke if something goes wrong I ask "are they going to get a letter/email from Mob of Northampton". 😆 To balance things out - the other day I arranged our home insurance and when trying to complete the computer form it wouldn't let me use my email address because it said it was already in use. I found this strange as I have never used this company before and thought it might be a typo on my part, I tried again same result so I used my wife's email address and then went to change it once every thing had gone through but got the same answer from the insurers website and when conducting an online chat. To keep the story short I had taken out home insurance for 2023-24 with another company, with an entirely different name, that they ran. But it still made no sense as it was a different company with a policy that ended 11 months ago and I've used the same email address for all my accounts, purchases and policies for about 15+ years. A problem with their computer program/system I think, thank gawd we don't rely on computers in cars!!

I too was totally confused (not difficult) by the rich and lean burning but it might be a language thing. I have no idea about these carbs but back when automatic chokes were put on carbs they could go faulty and be unreliable so much so that many owners converted them to the previous system of manual chokes where you pulled a cable and set it and adjusted it for starting the engine and as the engine warmed until you could set the choke to an off position. I am probably one of very few if any here that was still using a manual choke "daily" until a couple of years ago. I used to run, another car, with a carb with the auto-choke disconnected all the time summer and winter but it was a big American carb so sucked a lot of fuel anyway. Can you eliminate the automatic choke by getting the car started and warmed either without the use of the automatic choke or be able to disconnect it once the engine s running? I appreciate this might not be possible where you are if your car is not inside and can be warmed by other heat. With things like this where a lot of other additional work has been carried out I find it best to recheck everything that has been done and recheck all settings made, I know this seems likely to be a carb fuelling issue but over decades on old car forums and bulletin boards I have seen that small errors or issues in set up or incorrect assumptions made can hinder progress with the present issue. As you have removed the head do the valve clearances need checking/adjusting (I cannot remember on this engine). The order for ignition set up was/is - (valves), CB points / spark plugs, timing, carb mixture - in that order and if you adjust any item in that chain then you also check and adjust the items that follow it in the chain. If you have put new parts on do not assume that those new parts cannot be faulty, lots of poorly made parts now. Also do not assume any part that is fitted and working is fitted correctly and/or fully working correctly. Copying how something was fitted to the car is not always the best thing to do referring to a period workshop manual is often a very good starting point at least. Old car Owner's Manuals often gave lots of servicing and maintenance information (unlike the ones now). For older cars than yours in the UK CB points (unless yours is electronic), condensers, particularly rotor arm can be of p1ss-poor quality and cause all sorts of unexpected issues. So too can cheap (often Chinese made) HT leads, spark plugs and coils. Thinking of which how is your coil? How is your fuel pump (electric(?) I guess) for quantity and pressure when engine is cold and warmed? I would make a long list of all that is needed to get and keep the engine running and check and adjust all as required and tick them on the list without crossing off the list as you made need to repeat checks. I have no idea in your country but in the UK E5 and E10 fuel can cause issues if the fuel is very old in the tank and pipes, can cause icing too if I remember correctly. You also mentioned something about white bits on the oil cap(?) a photo of that might help too. In the photos I saw a fuel filter but lost track of the fuel line, other than a variety of hose clips and an electric wire disconnect (for a purpose possibly) my very tired eyes can see little nothing wrong but I don't know the model and am not a mechanic or expert in anything. (I noticed the battery figures of course.) All looks very clean externally at least.

Er, just in case there's any misunderstanding, I have never ever had any oil analyse done, well other than me looking at the oils that have come out of the cars and feeling any bits in the emptied oil between my fingertips. Emptying out the oil from a lifetime factory fill was informative but totally unscientific. A poster in another forum has put how changing the gear oil type and brand has helped the poor quality manual gear selecting on his 2018(IIRC?) VWŠkoda car I warned him this wouldn't be believed. He used a German brand of oil which was developed for VW gearboxes so of course I took the opportunity to say . . . no, I can't say. ☺️ When I had the Midget and was going on to the Chunnel train I was a bit behind a TVR Cerebra and I wanted to be parked behind it on the train to get a good look at it on the train (I had yet to meet a local owner). A newish Aston Martin (model I forget) got between us but I was close enough as we all got in the same train carriage. I didn't realise the two were together and by the time I got out of my car the other two drivers were approaching me. They wanted to look at and talk about the Midget. The Aston driver was about 6' 2" or more (1.88 m) and told me his first car was an MG Midget and when I asked him how he fitted into it he said he didn't know now and declined my offer of sitting in the car. Whilst I was talking to the Aston chap the Cerbie driver went off so I never did have a good look at the Cerbie. This type of thing happened often, at petrol stations people would come across to say they or someone they knew one and how nice it was to see one on the road. At a tyre place a flash Porker (Porsche "Porschar") was just in front of the Midget but two different people came over to me to talk about the Midget. It wasn't just my good looks and charm that had them talking to me about cars rather than the more hero-worship models. Another reason I liked such cars people were friendly towards them, wave and toot when on the road allow me to pull out of junctions when it wasn't my right of way. And no traffic light Grandprixes or wanting to race on the roads (unlike when I had my more sports type cars). Midgets made you were classless, welcomed by the high and low, which isn't always case in the UK.

What's the pressure cap like and what's your cleaning like. Was the "glitter" put in by the shovelful then, how much was in that could work its way up to jam the pressure cap. If there was that much it could jam the pressure cap I would have thought (but don't know) that would be enough to see or scrape out but if you are worried sure the best remedy would be to replace the pressure cap with a good quality new one then you can fit it and forget it - well at least until the cap wears or is faulty or there is another issues that could involve the pressure cap.

Don't just rely on the digital record get a paper printed back up each time, I can personally assure you the garages and VWŠkoda UK make and have errors on digital system, my evidence of this is already on this site. In the UK if you are using a VWŠkoda Dealership they can give both a "Individual record" of the work just done and a "Complete record" of all recorded stuff, from pre-inspection onwards in your case - this is in addition to any Dealership paper printout of the bill/invoice and worksheet(s). ETA: they also have different names for the different work do make sure they have reordered this correctly as sorting it out later is a right pain, guess how I know and if an independent garage does it wrong there is only a short time for them to correct their mistake and if they cannot or are too later it remains incorrect (guess how I know). If you are old like my wife and I the Dealership may tend to paper print the "Individual record" without being asked to as they know us oldies want it on paper as we have decades of experience of how bad computer systems can be, thank gawd we don't have to rely them in our cars. :yikes:

Tony, thanks for reporting back and the best of luck. Very few will believe that gearbox oil makes any difference. Personally I would never have bothered with a NAPA oil, it might be good or very good but who knows unless you have a safety sheet to suggest whose oil it might be then you don't know the model quality of the oil. With a good or very good quality oil you don't need additives (subject to using the correct oil type and grade) and perhaps state of the gearbox. It makes sense that another lot of German engineers will be able to sort out the compromises of the first lot of German engineers. To me German engineering (good) quality started to diminish at the change of century/millennium only the undeserved good reputation continued with the help of marketing and UK snobbery for BMW and Merc. I takes two oil changes to really change the oil over and that's being thorough with both changes which garages rarely have the time and inclination for but if you have sufficient good to not so good mix ratio, not so good not diluting the effect of the good too much, splashing around in the box it should be fine and your results so far have proved this to be the case. I had to tip my wife's car to empty and refill the box more and I'm still not sure I got all out and back in but it was enough of each and the English company (Millers) oil has given good results but I might drain and top up another litre in spring just so I know the contents is the EE as much as is possible but that might depend on weather, health and if I can be arse farting about on a car, particularly a VW. 😁

VW 3-pot engine, take it to 110PS and it might need more attention given to it than most average drivers/owners would know or bother about for longevity but Warrior193 isn't the average driver/owners judging by all his posts here, Mrs.Warrior193 might be an entirely different matter but if she's anything like my better half then she'd expect her partner to sort the car for her to just drive so things would be kept in order, or as much as allowed. Regardless of if there's a problem now and what it is as soon as the car was out of its (minimal) 3-year warranty if it is to be kept for any good length of time to have the engine "serviced" perhaps more frequently and using better oil than a Dealership or most garages/mechanics would particularly if the car isn't used enough.

Unless you have already done so and the other posters here know about it I think you need to give more information and back story to this. When did this start and why did it start. How long have you had the car and been driving it. What is the service history of the car and what service, maintenance and repairs have you and others made on the car recently and fairly recently. Photos, landscape not portrait where appropriate as that gets more information into the image, of the engine bay and carb.

Sorry, no he wouldn't. I very much dislike glues (adhesives) and sealants and paints and the fumes they give off, we are in the 21st century and still we use these chemicals as they are cheap for the producers and car manufacturers, and things like DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 brake fluid, all just annoy me and I am generally very successful at avoiding glues and paints in my life. Personally I don't like too much bling on a car but if I was to put on surrounds for the door lock push buttons they would be pressed in and secured to the panels like the surrounds to shoes and boot lace eyelets holes to reinforce them (forget what they are called).

As I put I have no idea what you can and can't get in Greece. I don't have Freeview Play I have Freeview, I don't watch TV programs on a a tablet, pill, or phone I use a TV set. I have an arial on the roof (well it's actually on a metal pole secured to the joint chimney stack) that has a (coax) cable off it that is terminated at a wall socket and cable from that to TV. Very old fashion now but very robust and reliable with no concerns about batteries and internet supply. It was paying twice to watch boxing matches that took me away from Murdoch's monopoly in the mid-90s, I had an independent system that could also pick up and pay for Murdoch's stuff. I also watched on Eurosport and another channel I wish I could remember the name of as it's boxing broadcasts were much more honest but a lot less professional and slick which improved them from the pay-per-view Sky stuff (originally I think it was all to be pay-per-view or card top-ups rather than monthly/annual fees). Murdoch was losing so much money he had to launch the rocket to get it on-air, breaking the law IIRC. Don't fall into hero-worship with your exotic and (normally not so well built) American cars. Those that like cars generally and "pertrolheads" have respect for Alfas and they being for drivers rather than just A to B driving owners. I suffered enough with Fiat (and British, well English, made cars) ownership ever to go to an Alfa but have to give respect to Alfa owners for recognising their driver appeal (for a tin-top 4/5 seater in T's case). And I'm not sure the post was aimed at you but it is comparing different oils that are also different weights so lots of variables to the comparisons then add in the difference in mileage and in different cars, I would expect differences but they may not be the point of the post which may relate to a misunderstanding of an earlier post, difficult to know without questions and answers.

An up to date VCDS is more likely to be accurate than a Snap-On but conformation of codes is a good step. I agree but with diagnostics checking is batter than assuming but they are not the best place to start from given the information available so far.I For location of module J431, possibly in the boot area(?) but you really want to look in or ask in the Superb Mk2 forum and/or get access to the Workshop Manual for that model and year and the wiring diagram from your VIN (which some members may have access to) would be useful for diagnostics and physical repair(s) if required. Skoda Superb Mk2 (2008-2015) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk2-2008-2015/ Good luck, let us know how you get on

Be serious, do you really think I would have Sky or other mobile or a Sky app of any sort, I watched for free (except the very annoying adverts) on Freeview. Or I could watch on youview but the digital box has been switched off and disconnected gathering dust for at least a couple of years. We happily pay the UK TV licence to keep the BBC going, which others all over the world can also benefit from for free, on some of their programs and transmissions at least. Wheeler Dealers is a Discovery program and seen in many countries over the world as far as I know, other than un UK how they get it I don't know. This episode is from 2022 so not a recent one and IIRC Elvis is no longer with Mike but I have never been a close follower of the show, I just remember Mike from decades back when he was on what they call terrestrial television now, when there were only 5 channels in the UK (unless you had a satellite dish and receiver).

Last night I saw an episode of Wheeler Dealers (series 17, episode 16) I don't watch many episodes but this on caught my attention, it was on a 195k-mile (314,000 km) Jaguar S-Type R and rather than start stripping a V8 engine in a pretty full 2002 engine bay they took an oil sample to be analysed at a place with a name familiar to us, it turned up unexpected results one possible interpretation related to recent concerns here. Also in this episode Elvis appeared to use the wrong type of feeler guage to check the gap on new plugs before installing them, a subject with many posts on a previous thread here. It showed three possible ways to test for potential head gasket failure - and Elvis called the fluid browosit blue it might interest you to see it you can skip passed the supercharger and other stuff.

Had a look at a pretty good video for the Autophix OM126P, it showed it for American IM readiness, looks like you get a lot for around £30 and nicely designed, one vid had you get free lifetime updates I don't know if that applies to UK or not, freeze frame and live data will be useful. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsfvtdCTukk Usual advice with code reader make sure it is fully updated before you plug it in. The limits might be that this is a generic code but the vehicle has also registered an issue by throwing up a couple of warning lights. P003A - "What Does the Engine Code P003A Mean? Character "P" in the first position of Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) represents the powertrain system (engine and transmission), "0" in the second position means that this is a generic OBD-II (OBD2) DTC. "0" in the third character position in a DTC indicates that the fuel and air metering and auxiliary emission controls is experiencing a malfunction. The last two characters "3A" is DTC number. OBD2 Diagnostic Trouble Code P003A means that Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control 'A' Position Exceeded Learning Limit has been detected. How Serious Is the Code P003A? This issue is critical and can lead to damages in your car. Please clear it first, drive your car for a couple of days. If the issue reappears, Carly recommends to fix your car to resolve this issue." - https://www.mycarly.com/obd-codes/p003a-turbochargersupercharger-boost-control-'a'-position-exceeded-learning-limit/ Have you driven the car and put it under a bit of load say going up a hill or pushing the turbo with higher revs in a gear higher than you should be in to see if it's under performing? Car running well being a VW always makes me think of potentially computer brain-farts and perhaps electric, wires, connectors etc.. Did you delete the error code after the old off-'n'-on-agen failed? A higher level scan tool might give more info and detail. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCDvnHKM6m0 The alternator can't do much if the car's not running, 70% /12.35v isn't low (particularly if you go with the 12.4v / 80% but why not fully charge the battery to 100% with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions for the car in the Owner's Manual and for the battery charger maintainer and recharge at a lower rate (of amps) over a longer time as possible. When the car has an issue(s) it's best to have the battery in the best state of charge possibly, particularly if the issue involves computer, electrics, engine starting as this can help with diagnostics and repairs whereas a low state of charge can hinder diagnostics and repairs. (I know you know this, put for other readers.) ETA: IIRC(?) throttle body issues were generally with 2019 cars

Is yours just a reader or fuller scan tool? Have you done the driver/owner checks yet? Any work done on the car recently, or elbows in engine bay? Without codes and better still live data there are so many possibilities. Might even be something as simple as a quick spray of GT85 around the throttle pedal. I'll take it that it is fully and properly serviced and maintained in a timely manner - and that the battery is in a good state of charge. 😄 There been a few threads on 2018s but not these two lights IIRC(?) more issues with 2019 cars IIRC(?). See what tomorrow brings. Good luck. I know these things have to be sorted ASAP as a distress call from the Boss means immediate attention and attendance usually at most inconvenient times but saying so only makes matters worse. 🫠

ETA: 16" tyres give over 20% more sidewall than those bloody silly 18" if all the info is correct.

If the internet info I got is correct - always check, double-check and cross reference any information you get from any source internet / sellers / manufactures even, note I haven't check this - here are some pictorials to give you some idea. The list I looked at show two different size wheels in 18" - 8.5" wide ET 41 and 8" wide ET 41 I've gone with 8" as just an uneducated guess, your wheels will have the size on them, probably on the inside face where you can't see them unless you take the wheel off the car. So 8"wide 18" (ET 44) wheel with bloody silly 235/45ZR18 94W tyres (could be worse could be 19" wheels) against 16" 6.5" (ET 41) wide wheels with say 215/60R16 tyres. HTH. Info from these sites. - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/ https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ https://www.willtheyfit.com/

Sorry I have no idea about updates with the VCDS system. You should be able to get info about issues from the scan tool or wait for VCDS users here to guide you. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01537 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00497 Otherwise you can use other diagnostic tools, a scan tool is just one diagnostic tool, such as multimeter, test bulb for load, your eyes, ears, touch to confirm supplies live, return, computer, are reaching or not reaching where or reporting back to where or not as your codes are for open or short circuit and supply voltage Implausible signal. You can look at wires and connectors and wiggle them I assume the steering wheel controls are actually on the steering wheel but where are all the controls and switches for headlights, on stalk, dash, etc.. Other issues may be related or partially related to headlight issues or totally separate, if you have other error codes recorded that will not delete and not return with some use of the car then put those codes up here too. This guy is quite thorough and checks and cross references the issues, resolves and results if you can't find your specific type of issue the general work pattern will apply from other issues on the videos. - Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354/videos

It's the drain and flush after repair that most garages, mechanics and owners won't bother with - and even those that do probably won't do a thorough job of it. 😁 😉 😁 (sorry couldn't resist, well I course I could have but obviously didn't, am I bad 😟)

For future a list of the codes would be useful and perhaps posting in the Diagnostics & VCDS forum may (or may not) have got more answers quicker. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ General advice, whatever scan tool you use do ensure the program is for you (make) model and year of vehicle, that the program is fully updated before you use the tool, that the car battery and if appropriate scant tool battery are not in a lower state of charge otherwise you may get spurious readings - and particularly with electric power steering you want plenty of battery power as it uses a lot. Once you have taken a report delete all error codes each time, some may return but warnings go away with a bit of use of the vehicle, check for, record and delete any codes anyway, starting fresh and as clean as possible keeps things simpler. HTH. Good luck, report back and let us know how you get/got on.

ETA: AG posted whilst I was still typing but I'll leave this up in case and it gives Ross Tech alternative(s). There might be info in the OBDEleven owners form but the following turned up top of first page of my Google search, I never suggest only taking what's on the top of the first page of a search or just the first page so do check and cross reference any information you get from anywhere, internet, manufacturers, anywhere. Note, I've not read much on the links I've posted as my eyes are playing up today so take it as an example of possible searches. This from Ross Tech, the VCDS lot. - https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/17984/ OBDEleven lot. - https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/16711/access-basic-settings-steering-assistance

I know all drivers are supposed to be against the 'evil' insurers, some insurers are not good but many times consumers/purchases get the quality they deserve in the constant rush to take everything to the easiest, cheapest and bottom in price and quality, but introducing a bit of very unpopular and probably fully rejected logic, if you have an incident, whether you claim or not, that is proof of risk rather than potential. Graham, probably my poor memory but I think I remember seeing that video a good while back from a post on this site and I thought there were posts on it then perhaps some from you but I might well be wrong. The chap seems nice enough but a bit naïve in some areas particular if as I think he is he also done a video on a Spridget or Sprite, I think I know I've seen him with one on the Lexus LS400 I think he was driving in that vid and he starts the vid with saying something like "most of us think of car insurance as a rip off" hardly a balanced start to the matter, but it's his channel he can say what he wants. Only this morning I saw a telly program that features a local recovery company (CMG) where a dad and son were picking up a scooter that had been stolen and damaged and because of the £500 excess the dad was going to get a quote to see cost of repair before considering having the son perhaps put in a claim, he said this all on national telly, same as some posters on this site sometimes, telling the whole world so you hope they let their insurers know this or perhaps that the insurers never see. Also there was a 76 year old lady that was recovering her car after being stopped for no insurance who had been paying for insurance for two years but with the wrong reg on her insurance and she is convinced that is not her fault. The Police let her off, discrimination perhaps just because she's an old woman, would they have let off an old man, but the insurers stuck to their guns, in my experience the insurers is told/advised to check all details before taking out the policy. I know she didn't do it on purpose and most would be on her side unless she ran into your car and you couldn't claim off her insurance because it wasn't valid. Their are good companies and good customers around but also their are bad companies and bad customers, always have been, perhaps there are more so now or just more noticeable or reported. Must sort out our home insurance now. 🙂

Depends on where and what you drive on but I can only remember it happening to me twice in 47 years of driving. If you drive where there is always loose bits then obviously the risks increase but that might be the only time you ever notice such a thing, plus you would also be unlucky for it to cause any real damage. Forget about it, if it happens again at least you know what to do when it's safe to do so by which time it might have freed itself anyway. ETA: And I'm pretty sure there will be many other drivers who have never had or notice such a thing happen to them in all their driving experience, now I expect some will post as exceptions to this. 😄 Good luck.

Fair enough but I would have thought it more likely that the seal has or gets a little give, rubber seals you can perhaps replace if you want, the metal pressure spring type seals used to be just replace the cap but they normally lasted a very long time even if the cap was removed occasionally or more often to check coolant level perhaps at 6 monthly services, which (and are) nothing like the modern Dealership/garages "services" (engine oil & filter change and look for more chargeable work) you get now. I also don't think you have anything to worry about with this level of coolant loss but you will be very cautious and vigilant which can be a good thing if you are not overstressing yourself about something that is of no real concern, too much stress isn't good for mind or body.