nta16

With a "battery" (it's not really the battery) light on I would double up on my usual advice of fully recharging the battery using an appropriate battery charger following the instructions for the charger and for the car in your car's Owner's Manual. If you've lost your very useful paper printed copy you can down load a free pdf copy from the following VWŠkoda website link, you'd be best to enter your VIN for this. - Skoda Owners Manuals - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models As much as possible you want to recharge the battery as low (charge rate) and slow as possible rather than higher rate and faster, if the battery is low this may take many hours on lower rates and if the battery is very low, though you should have had other warnings or signs for this, then the battery will take many more hours at lower charge rate. A battery in lower state of charge can cause other issues and hinder diagnosis of electric issue whereas a battery in full charge can help and mean the diagnosis can go on for longer more successfully. This is the time of year owners and drivers flatten their batteries, just see the breakdown recovery reports. Good luck.

Are you sure you are using the correct tool and correct size of tool. I've only found what I call normal Torx (6 points) headed screws and bolts on my wife's 2015 Fabia. IIRC this fitting different types heads on bolts and screws goes back decades and start with the French cars as I remember it now of course with fixings it gone ridiculous to stop people being able to have a chance at repairs items, electronics is mad for different fixings and tamper-proof ones. I think if it's a Torx type it will be more likely to be the 6-point but just in case it's not are you sure you sure it's not a T40 security (tamper-proof) that has a centre raised circular nipple or entirely different fitting, there are also 5 point Torx but I don't know that VW use them (they might I've no idea and I'd guess they'd be 5 point security Torx too. I very much doubt the fixings are reverse thread but do check you are turning them in the correct direction to loosen, not set or left a tool to tighten by mistake - sometimes trying to tighten a very little before loosening can help in some cases but don't risk overtightening. The toll must fit the fixing correctly or you risk damage of some sort. With fittings in the engine bay being tight if it's not a case of damaged fixing or rust and/or muck, crud oil mix then leverage is often the answer, extending the leverage you have, longer bar for sockets or for spanners a spanner extender of some sort, sometimes another spanner to extend the first but this must be done right or there's more chances of damage to car or you. Of course you have to be careful of not damaging or breaking the fixing by using extra leverage. You need someone with a parts list to see what these fixing actually are or if possible take a photo and post it up here. Good luck.

Don't over rate ABS in normal driving conditions, in normal conditions ABS more compensates for poor quality driving. If you were in the UK I could possibly recommend a tyre from a very small independent which are great and not high priced. I know exactly what you mean about 13" tyres but there were still some very good ones in that size but you have to look away from the usual mass market advertising. If there is a motor sport club for standard or near standard road going Felicias or similar cars then looking at their approved tyres list can bring very useable road tyres. What size tyres do you use? Tyres and brakes unfortunately are also fashion items on cars and there is a great market for them, tyre tread patterns operated in a similar way to having this season's most fashionable dress, with brakes beyond a certain point it gets into sexy big-boys toys with added nerd appeal, the number of drilled holes and their patterns, some of this might be relevant at higher levels of track use but it's often more about mimicking, one-upmanship and perhaps some sort of worship when applied to road cars. This bit in the world at least is free so whatever someone wants or needs or thinks they need it's all fine, as always each to their own.

Hope this might help, stolen from another thread, Mk2. (more rounded lines) - And stolen from same thread Mk3. -

I'm putting more travel on this car than the owner, sorry. I saw 2006 in Triff's name plate looked at his posting history and saw Mk2 forum (until this thread, in Mk3 forum at the time) then went to give Triff a link to HatBoyHarvey vids where I noticed it had Mk2 2007-2014 so wondered if 2006 was a typo for 2016 or if possibly a Mk1 even - confused you soon will be, anyone remember Soap, Billy Crystal). Some members can have wiring diagrams available based on VIN and are good at reading them and electrics generally. Alternator and battery are like a couple if one is suffering then the other will be too to some extent and at some point and they can cause each other's breakdown, particularly not wanted at this time of year, and week.

ETA: @ColinD - sorry, perhaps not yet, perhaps a check of NJ or 5J just to be sure. My wife's car appeared to be made in April 2015 but was with dealer (or registered anyway until 30th September 2015. Perhaps this car was swapped at birth. 😁 @Triff Child would be easy, this is my owner, sometimes administers the keyboard, which can often improve what I've put. I could have steered all wrong and yours is a MK3, it'll have NJ in the VIN if it's a MK3 and 5J in the VIN if a Mk2 (had to check on that Wiki page and the VIN for my wife's early Mk3). Battery and washer is a funny one, presumably as you've checked the battery connections you have checked the connections are tight and checked the state of charge of the battery, low battery charge can upset the computers and get them to throw up all sorts of odd things. There could be two separate issues or one thing causing or common to both. Washer light could be sensor, (another thread had about Rain-X possibly causing issue, no idea if that's correct or possible), wiring, connections. Battery light is actually generator, alternator, this shouldn't be on when the engine is running so there is a fault there (another reason to check the state of charge in the battery before low battery charge causes more issues or stop the engine from starting or running. If you have access to a wiring diagram and/or a suitable scan tool they would help but you still need to look at the wiring and connections physically anyway.

@Triff ( @ColinD ) It might be me that's embarrassed as saw Triff's previous posts were in the Mk2 forum and forgot to check the range of years I've just noticed you've put your car as 2006 so a Mk1 if that's the case, or if 2006 is a typo and you mean 2016 then it's a Mk3 but I didn't recognise your dash photo. Years of experience yes, but on my part failing memory, befuddled mind and incompetence should never be underestimated for me (plus pestering animal that is convinced it's fed time before it is). @Triff photos on Wiki of the different mark body shapes. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia Now it is time for feeding, got to be strict.

Reported to move to Mk2 forum, you could also look in there for any threads and posts on this.

Another thought - you have put the cabin heater on warmest setting to get the coolant going around the heater matrix? And once you have got the coolant system full do remember to check for coolant leaks on the work you have done and to check the coolant level (when fully cold) for the next few days and using the car (heat and run cycles) to establish its unusual fill level. This time of year particularly being a little below 'Max' is no concern. And VW in their infinite wisdom(?) are now on 12eve coolant (after 13 obviously) bur either number will do, though best practice not to mix brands and numbers if you can.

One example video of one funnel filler (n spills) kit. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDor5icXxlE&t=1s HTH.

Hi, welcome. Yes you are supposed to refill under some sort of pressure but if you have the nerve and aren't careless you can carry on - or later refill with pressure/charge tool/kit or other more basic filler funnel kit. You need to start the engine get it running and warmed up, the thermostat needs to open top ups are required. You may need to put the cap back on and go for a very short driver around the block once or a few times, but always check the level in the tank and top it up. You may get coolant temp gauge needle up and near or on the red, obviously don't over do that but needle up there means the coolant is hot or very hot not necessarily engine overheating unless it actually is. Now obviously take care, take this advice on the understanding that's it's your car and your responsibility what you do and what the consequences are from your actions, I've got away with doing what I've put but not with your car and I'm not you or you me. I'll see if I can remember what the over fillers are called and find an example for you in the meantime, you already know about charge/pressure-of-some-sort-tools/kits.

Hi, welcome. You might be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)' forum as there may be more specific details and advice, plus more traffic. HTH. 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk3-2015-2023/

My wife's 2015 is the same as AGFalco has put. Try reversing closer, square on, to a wide wall or something to check the four zones light up. Just using the reversing sensors to reverse isn't a good idea, I can guarantee you that from experience of such stupidity.

Hi, welcome. Sorry, I don't know the engine or details but others will, I could guess but that it's a good way of doing things. It might help if you can give the engine code (usually three or four letters) in case there are any common leaks and if you are able to take a photo and post it up (landscape is usually best as more info in frame) with an arrow to area of leak. Do be certain of the origin of the leak. I don't think there's too much to removing the fan but I could be wrong and you want to check what is required to sort your issues first. One thing I can say is no doubt you'll want to flush, clean and refill the system, at each fill it should be done under some sort of pressure, you can get away without but car more careful bleeding will be required each time. Also VW in their great(?) wisdom are now on to coolant 12evo (from 13, of course) but either will do. HTH a little. Good luck.

Also remember the tyres are a very important component of the braking system (and steering and suspension systems) so good quality appropriate tyres in good condition and inflation will perform better than tyres that are old and worn or gone hard from lack of regular use. Also the condition of the brake fluid needs to be considered especially under arduous use.

@Sindbad56 Phil, thanks for reporting back. Once again checking the very (boring, unsexy) basics has beat the sexy big-boys toys of the likes of scan tools. Recently I checked a neighbour's wireless door bell that wasn't working and sure enough the button battery in the push button end was brand new Duracell (2025) and when I took it out to check its voltage I found the cause of the problem, the baby secure sticker on the blind side of the battery was still there just at the point of the negative contact of the push button. A bit of info for you, 2025 means 20mm diameter and 2.5mm thickness, so 2032 is 20mm diameter and 3.2mm thick.

So you have a CFG code engine. You could look and see if the belt cover is VW fantastic-plastic or metal, plastic for rubber belt. Or enter your VIN in a few car parts sites and see if they give the same part (never trust only one source of info (even manufacturers errors and omissions are in all databases, even well before AI's help). This kit is from a USA site (don't expect USA prices for this lot as a kit in the UK), I've not confirmed this is correct, you should - "It is compatible with your Skoda SuperB 2010 - 2014 model vehicles with 1.6 TDI (CAYB-CAYC) 2.0 TDI (CFF-CFG) engines. The set includes timing belt, timing balls and water pump. Gates brand; It produces for...". - https://autopartshall.com/products/skoda-superb-1-6-2-0-tdi-timing-set-with-circulation-gates-brand?srsltid=AfmBOooHUcUSPabEiKW8-PmehFxZoUzmpMndng1ZTbcZrwI7Lhhu3jKg Time for my tea/dinner, depending on where you was brought up, were brought, brung up or dragged up.

What's the engine code of your car? Belts still need checking, and other things related can need replacing but in general in Europe they weren't changing at 5 years like in the UK, same engines.

Either email back to them the screenshot Ootohere has put up or tell the receptionist her computer is out of date - you could also ask them how many others they've conned in this way or take the email to something like Trading Standards or whatever the equivalent is. This boils my blood as we were ripped off when my wife's Fabia was 5 years old, just the UK doing it, if we were in USA we'd all be on to VW and get our money back. I've attached a pdf of the 1st July 2023 change, that's 18 months ago more than enough time to up date all paperwork and computers. Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

You do more than many car owners so don't worry about being a bit late with just the most recent engine oil and filter change as having the oil level in the 'A section' is fine and things with the car might not be as bad as you think or even possibly no where near as bad. If, and that is if, the engine has a fault then that is on VW and the longevity of these engines isn't fully helped by all of the dictates of VW. Once sorted and if you want to stick with this car and engine for a long time advice and suggestions can be given to help it perhaps last longer than VW care about.

@mark_irl just some general advice, not moaning at you, engine oil changes are based on time as well as milage and particularly for a car that is used for mostly short journeys and/or more arduous or in hotter or cold climates annually is really the maximum time limit you should go for. Also whilst the oil being in the A section is fine better to top it up to 'max' or just below than leave it until it drops below the 'A section'. Unless your driving conditions are normally quite/very bad or other cause then the lateness of this engine oil and filter change would not have caused any of the suggested issues, nor of course the oil level being in the 'A section'. There is hope as to be fair to your first mechanic he did say he couldn't be sure without properly looking at it (but he could have had a better beside manner) and you have being driving the car around. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

More info required as it could be so many things, other codes, service and maintenance history just two that come to mind. A car that is used infrequently can present with problems from that, is it parked in a heated and dehumidified garage or parked on a dirty industrial works car park or more likely something in between. Any other presentations. Has anything been done on the car before the light came on first time, or driver (or other) maintenance checks or work.

I can't think of the oil warning light coming on briefly with ignition but car isn't with me now to confirm - still a very good practice to get into to check (those that should) do light up, you then do notice if one is missing or remains on, or another warning light comes on after ignition, more by the pattern as they go out so quick.

Light on is expected so helps with code being correct. No don't close this thread someone different might see it and able to give you advice. Not necessarily with this but sometimes some scan tools take a few attempts to keep a code clear and lights out with a bit of driving also required and/or ignition on/off, say three times of ignition off back on and scan tool to delete code a few miles of driving. Unlikely with a 2020 car but a basic code reader clearer might need more attempts. Good luck.

Hi, welcome, Sorry I don't know whether that VW connection is as it should be, many VW connections are weird and not so wonderful to me. Some things I think I know, you want your scan tool appropriate for VWs and its program for your model and year (or VIN) and that program to be fully up to date before you use the scan tool, also that the car battery and if appropriate scan tool battery are in a reasonable state of charge and health otherwise false reports might be given. If you have not already done so then looking in and/or asking in the Karoq forum(s) might give you more information and replies (see below), I see what I think is oil drips on the "beauty cover" if you have recently removed the oil filler cap check that none of the crud has got on to the bottom of the oil cap or oil filler neck so preventing a good seal of the cap, if so clean all off to get good seal again. Do you also have an engine light on. Loads of information and videos on the internet on this code and diagnosis, such as a good example, Ross Tech,18711/P2279/008825 - http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18711/P2279/008825 Škoda Karoq forums - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ HTH.