nta16

You are young, a 2015 Ford Ka is only tiny and stripped-down car compared with the huge monsters of 2024, the newer cars are even more remote for the driver to feel the car and the road and the car's computers takeover too much control from the driver often, the computer programs and sensors often make errors and have "glitches" and can not yet know what a good driver knows about the road and driving conditions. You still need all your driving skills that you first learnt. Do not fully trust or always follow what the 2024 car tells or advises you. Gear selection is more set up for making mpg figures look good for marketing rather than engine or driving conditions ahead that it can't see or predict (yet?). Wheels and tyres are oversized, even for the bloated overweight modern cars, as a matter of decades old fashion rather than practicality. I find front and lane "assist" to be very unreliable in the cars I've driven with them. Don't worry about driving slow modern cars in my opinion are boring at high speeds anyway (and yes I have travelled and sometimes driven in some very quick and fast modern cars, on roads and closed-tracks). Until a couple of years ago the following was my one and only everyday car used all year round, small and striped-down from new, you had to lift the bonnet to turn the heater on or off, the single door mirror was only heated by solar gain. 😁 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GWowHiIktA

Hi, welcome. Sorry I've no idea but I'm sure others will be along that do. Just a small point, your name badge thingy shows "Skoda Octavia 1.9 TDI" you may own both if so you can put more than one in the details for future post and threads here.

That depends on how accurate the error code reading is and whether Gaz's post about the engine type and belt, which I've not read either of, is relevant, if so then possibly very unwise to use the engine. As far as I can see you are only reporting that error code reading and just the preheater warning light coming back on the car might be driveable but I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything, it's not my car and I don't drive it, I don't know the history of the car and obvious can't see, hear, touch, smell it in the metal. If you want to be safe it might be best to wait for your mate and get a full scan tool report and hopefully diagnosis (after the other stuff, as much as possible, I've put has been checked if it was me). Full and proper timely servicing, maintenance and repairs of the whole car is important and particularly a diesel engine (to borrow and alter an old computer term, SISO, to cut down on the **** going in and coming out) but even then things wear, go faulty, break or get broken.

The thing with a cleaner is that the next time the car is used the glass is less clean, or even sitting not used. I have no proof, other than using 20-50+ year old cars as dallies for 30+ years, that more modern cars have so much more glass on them, being bigger bloated vehicles, and the fantastic-plastics used in them give off more stuff to scum-up the windscreens more and and for more years into the life of the car, all part of the changes to life, manufacturers profits and executives wages, bonuses and pensions have to come from somewhere. 😁

Sorry my reply wasn't meant in that way or a way to upset you. Yeap I should have put if you've not already done so but you must understand the only information I know of you and your circumstances is the tiny amount in your posts and based on your previous posts it might be that you are new to cars or car ownership. There is too a lot of male macho b*ll*cks around about not reading instructions (particularly with some tradesmen in my long experience). Apologies to you, as you put we are all only human and make mistakes, and I have read Owner's Manuals and missed some information, the newer manuals particularly are not always the easiest to access the information you want (and contain errors and omissions), I very often forget what I have read. I do not think questions are silly, often it can be silly not to ask the question. Even with the same manufacturer or even same model range the set up of the car's buttons and switches can vary so much and there is so much on modern cars that getting in to drive a different car can take a while to sort and get used to, even simple things like having the indicator and wiper stalks the opposite way round on the steering column can be 'fun'.

Well done. Let us know how you get on. Also if you've not already looked there might be info on this in the Superb forum, sometimes it's easier to do a Google search which will often bring you back to the relevant Briskoda Superb forums, sometimes as Gaz put the engine type can be relevant other times the issue is of a general nature. Good luck.

@szilvita it is not against any law to read the Owner's Manual, in and out of car warranty reading and referring to the Owner's Manual could say you time, effort and money (often by avoiding Dealerships / garages / mechanics / auto-electricians) also helps with prevention being better than cure. Loads of help also here of course

After checking the battery and electrics I'd get conformation of of the error code from someone with a suitable scan tool, with details as previously put. If you don't have access to one then there are some Briskoda members that offer help for a beer token or others in a professional capacity for different renumeration. Have a look on the map, there's a pin in Belfast. -

This website is based in the UK where we refer to the "mark" rather than "generation". There can also be sub-division of a mark such as the Fabia Mk3 with pre-facelift and post-facelift where cosmetic (and other) changes have been made. It is all just market stuff, a model name may remain for decades with the vehicles changing vastly in appearance and mechanicals.

Yes you are in the right forum for a MY2025 VWŠkoda Fabia. Mk4 generally means Mark 4 (or 4th generation), that is the Mark 1 is the first and original model then the manufacturers makes usually substantial changes to the model and they become Mark 2, Mark 3, Mark 4, etc.. - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Škoda_Fabia

That light in the Owner's Manual is diesel pre-heater warning light. - I'm not sure professional mechanics (and electricians) are the most reliable of tradesmen in my experience, often tend to be lazy and look for shortcuts and not updating things or checking all they should - this of course is a wide generalisation and your mechanic might be excellent, I couldn't possibly know either way. The error code and pre-heater warning lights might be two entirely separate issues or faults or they might be related. Two things that might be related are VW's 'clever' computer programs and electrics. For those check the car's battery is in a good state of charge (and health) and that main battery connections and earths are clean, secure and protected. Same for the wires and connectors for camshaft sensor and glow plugs connectors, you might see damaged wires or dirty connections, a spot of corrosion on connections can cause issues that disappear once they are cleaned. And as in that video you can meter test sensors to check them (just cleaning some sensors can restore them).

Perhaps you done what I've sometimes done and not pressed, or properly pressed, the 'Submit Reply' button (usually after I've one-finger typed a very long post) or you had a computer glitch on your device / web / site. Post it again (unless there's something about new member and no attachments until a certain number of posts or sumfink). ETA: 4 posts -

You might already know this but in case not there is a site section for each model with forums that will give you detailed information on models from often their owners so real life experiences and knowledge. For Karoq 2020-2022 - Škoda Karoq - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/365-škoda-karoq/ You have a Toyota yet you also have a Merc and looking at another German marque, that is well beyond my comprehension but each to their own, good luck.

Check of the error code with a few questions. Has your car got any of the symptoms connected with this code? What scan tool did you use to get this code, was the program on it appropriate for your model and year of VW and the program fully up to date before taking the reading, also the scan tool and car battery(ies) not in a lower state of charge? Have you used any other diagnostic tools like your eyes and touch, a multimeter, etc.? The following video isn't the best but gives a good idea about the code and possibly fixes. -

What type of clutch and gearbox is on your car? I assume it's a 5-speed manual but assuming is often where things start to go wrong with diagnostics, you're assuming it's a clutch issues, which it very well might be, but it could be another source or combination of sources. A neighbour's SEAT (another VW brand) had a very intermittent slipping clutch IIRC turned out to be some oil gasket leak nothing to do with clutch but his was standard clutch and flywheel set up and not the 'clever' other sort(s). Perhaps a sound recording of this noise might help. When taking off in 1st you could try with more and then less revs to see if either makes any odds to the sound or feel, particularly from a steepish slope. That's me out of thoughts.

Sorry I've just seen a typo, I meant to put I set the air to come from outside not not recirculate. My wife's car hasn't got a glass roof, I'm sure things would be even worse if it did. My neighbour's car had a full length glass roof (but with an internal cover) and I don't remember the condensation in that being anywhere near as bad as in the Fabia but that sat on the opposite side of the road so different conditions. The Fabia is parked in a loose routine of opposite end in i.e. boot or bonnet road end but I rarely drive it so have no idea if this makes any difference, it makes a difference to potential of front being on windscreen if the windscreen cover and in 16 years of another neighbour's car being parked in the same position it made a difference to the amount of underside rust on his car, one side had more than the other, so when I drove it I would park it facing the opposite way to try to even things out a bit, the fading on the upholstery showed it was parked one-way for many years. So perhaps you could try parking in a different position or way round and see if that helps any. As we've lived in the same place since 1982 I have a good base of reference and I've noticed in the last 7 years or so the winters have been more mild and damp so that moss has grown on the back 'garden' path where it never grew in the previous 35 years.

My wife's 2015 Fabia gets this, first time I encountered it I couldn't believe how long it took to clear before I could safely drive off, Now the car has two Pingi dehumidifiers on the dash, I also use a damp synthetic chamois to clear the screen on the inside, tilt the sun visors towards the screen to reflect the blower air to screen rather than roof, booster on full (4), air-con on, ETA: non-recirculate mode [fresh air from outside the car], I may also put the front windows down. Now fighting against VWŠkoda back door leak but hopefully your Fabia is too young to have that yet, just two of the VWŠkoda Fabia's less desirable features.

My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 1.2 TSI (90PS) has a front passenger seat which is height adjustable, it is the 'SE' trim.

Have you looked at the Roomster forums on this site as there will lots of info there and owners that know about the vehicle and possibly good value insure, you never want cheap insurance as if you need to claim cheap insurance can prove to be poor value of even low premium. Roomster section - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/172-škoda-roomster/ Good luck.

@Rheumy sorry I didn't mean the fuse needs checking just that you start at the battery before plugging in a scan tool and you need the battery to be reasonable especially if the tool picks its power up from the car battery otherwise some tools may add in their own errors of diagnosis. As I put a scan tool would be handy, also to know if the power steering isn't operating at all and totally with you about previous work done. It a 2019 VW so loads of potential for computer and electrical faults or it might be simple basic mistake(s) made by others who have touched the car. I see very very cars and rarely yet this year alone I saw a neighbour's car that had had a battery swap under car manufacturer's warranty by the Dealership which was obviously by the careless work where someone had managed both to overtighten one terminal clamp but the other was loose. At another very reliable local garage the young mechanic had forgot to torque and check the engine sump plug for it to fall out and suddenly empty the engine of oil a couple of week later, luckily the driver had the good sense to deal with the situation correctly and the AA was joined and car relayed back. The garage after inspection done the right thing, admitted their mistake plus pay the costs (so free year of AA for car owner). Obviously not a Dealership. So it pays to check basis to avoid mistakes and unnecessary hassle. Obviously it'll be interesting to hear from OP what's going on or outcome. -or if OP only wants to know which fuse the answer has been given.

A scan tool might be handy but - even with a scan tool first basic check for electric (and car computer stuff) is always the car battery, even good professionals (when you can find them) sometimes forget this and end up going back to this first basic which can be the cause of the issue(s).

Hi, welcome. Yeah the diagrams can be 'fun' (German efficiency!?) 9- Operating lever beneath the steering wheel, engine control unit (vehicle without KESSY), automatic gearbox (vehicle without KESSY), ESC (vehicle without KESSY), towing equipment (vehicle without KESSY), power steering (vehicle without KESSY) - is your car without KESSY? Sorry I can't see any other listing. Does the power steering still work? Are there any other warning lights and/or messages on? Have you checked the state of charge of the car's 12v battery and that the battery terminal clamps are clean and secure? Do you have access to an appropriate VW scan tool that has a program for your model and year and that program is is fully up to date (and scan tool battery not low)?

Thanks for reporting back. Going through the gears briskly can help but having too lower, or low, revs all the time might not, or help with engine and other wear, being in the correct gear and revs for the driving conditions and what's ahead will help mpg. To get the nth degree of mpg, and reduce emissions, out of an ancient technology like an internal combustion engine VW have overstressed things. Don't be ruled by their suggested gear selection as the car's computers aren't yet able to drive the car like a good human drive and allow for what is ahead as well as in the immediate present. There are lots of ways of saving mpg but all are compromised by the fact that the modern car is so heavy with over sized tyres and wheels and often only carrying one or two and on short journeys. If you want to save mpg to save fuel costs then driving technique is important, on top of the other mpg saving stuff. The new pedal box shows just one example of how much more control of the car the computers have taken over from the driver. Good luck

VW made this simple task more complicated than needed and then didn't even bother follow procedure at factory. By what other OBDEleven users have posted you just need to get to the page and carefully do the data entry (type the stuff in). The important points are to get the battery type correct EFB/AGM (EFB+) (VW call AGM "Fleece") then carefully put in the new Ah of the new battery, battery serial number is of no importance other than it being at least one digit different. Below is the one done for the battery change on my wife's car. Good luck. -

This assumes that the part that is broken is available separately and not just as a part of an assembly. This is where talking to someone that has the full parts list and diagrams in front of them and can see any variations, like the Dealership parts department, is very useful but do check price as VW can want some very high prices for their plastics and reasonable alternates may be available at reasonable cost - don't go for really cheaper plastic as often they can work out more expensive when you have to replace them sooner or they might not ever fit or work properly in the first place. Also with parts sometimes "Genuine" can just mean counterfeit so buy from reliable sources Good luck.