nta16

@MarchPaul if you want Eddie-NL to perhaps see your post you could do as I have done in this post and pat an @ just before his member name. I'll get me coat . . .

Andrew, sorry I didn't make myself clear as I'm not used to quick short posts that many like and when I do this is what happens. I'm not angry at all, I was trying to give you some information that you can edit post but only after you have submitted so many from being a new member, the number I forget. Three dots at top right of post gibes Edit, Report, Share. Setting up what what you see I don't know as like you I'm not into computers.

You could edit your post. - Edited 19 hors ago by AndrewShelton

Hi, welcome. - (merhaba hoş geldiniz) This is an English language site so best to post text in English. - (Bu İngilizce bir site olduğundan İngilizce metin yayınlamak en iyisidir.) -

First bit can be good but there are other systems that will also do the job - second bit is the most important as they might not even need VCDS, OBDEleven or other scan tool to diagnosis and resolve this (but a scan tool would be handy to confirm fault possibly and resolve) as a scan tool is one diagnostic tool but there are others include the person's senses , brain, training, knowledge, experience and attitude. Please don't think all auto-electricians are any better than some Dealerships, garages and mechanics. At the moment the map for Briskoda members with VCDS willing to offer help only shows one member in Spain in Barcelona, not posted since October 2023 but that doesn't necessarily mean not available. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 I hope you get it sorted.

@AndrewShelton I forget, you might need a number of posts first but you can edit your posts up to a time limit I forget.

I'm no expert, as you know, so I'd guess it's all to do with what is considered as suitability of LED to lens, bear in mind there are a lot of ****-poor crap LED bulbs about and they are usually sold at low prices which attract those that always want the cheapest part available, such as "classic" car owners, and others, and these are made to sell in quantity not necessarily suitability or tested. At some point in the recent past, IIRC, the MoT was changed to prohibit use of LED bulbs in headlights in cars then changed to exclude "Historic" cars then changed to allow them as LED headlights bulbs had been developed to suit the lenses on those cars, IIRC. I'm not sure that British cars of the 1960s and 70s had less defined beam patterns, ones I had originally had sealed beam headlight units so the reflector, filaments and glass (not scratchy plastic) lenses were all one sealed unit, the lenses were heavily patterned for low and high beams. On my 1973 car, which was my daily drive for 16 years until a few years ago, IIRC, only the front position (side) lights were actually regulated by wattage, 5w, all the other lights weren't, IIRC. As quality dropped and prices increased for the sealed beam headlight I swapped over to combined reflector and pattern lens and separate H4 bulb. I bought some expensive LED headlight bulbs whilst they were on a low price offer but never got around to fitting them as they were the bright white and other (reliable) clear LED bulbs in warm white (more yellowish) were becoming available and suited the look of a 1970s car whilst still giving more light and less load than the filament bulbs.

Hi, welcome. As was pointed out to me in post/thread below and from a supplier of LED bulbs I trust, note the date of "first used before" - "The MOT rules have been clarified from 06.02.23 to allow the use of LED conversions that pass the beam pattern tests for headlights for Class 3, 4, 5 and 7 vehicles (car, private bus and light commercial vehicle) first used before 1 April 1986 and all class 1 and 2 motorcycles of any age." - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

Just to be clear - this issue is with a 2015 car on a Bolero without Tw*tNav under warranty. I very, very much doubt this, you may have a warranty but how comprehensive it is is another matter. If you have then the warranty provider needs to sort this, if it means going outside their normal channels for the expertise then that's what they'd need to do. But have a very good read of your warranty documents. If you have warranty cover for this issue then if you are with a car club or similar they may be able to offer help. Depending on how the warranty was financed they may be able to offer help. If you have legal cover with something they may be able to advise.

Do not think of any scan tool as a magic tool, always check and cross-reference any information you get from it (and any other source, manufacturers, the internet, other people). Computers aren't always right always check them. Your senses and your brain are great tools. So are pencil and paper (you can see them in daylight and bright sun and no batteries to go flat or need charging. At 18 you probably have little idea just how how ****-poor computers and computer programs can sometimes be. VW cars are full of computer bits and programs, these programs are complex and intertwined (and over-intrusive) so even IF they were 100% written perfectly and the modules, wires, connectors, parts all fully functioning well a "glitch" or programming error on a scan tool could mess things up in all sorts of unexpected ways. Even a VW's car battery being in a low state of charge that the computers like can cause all sorts of unexpected issues and that doesn't mean the battery is necessarily in a very low state of charge. I would suggest if you say bought an OBDEleven that you checked on the forums here and for OBDEleven users that they had successfully and without issues done what you want to do with it, any issues or errors corrected with updates. And something many engineers, mechanics, auto-electricians, electrics and other trades don't always do particularly after getting qualified - read the 'Owner's Manal', 'Driver's Handbook', instructions before use and starting the work - known as "Read The Manual", "RtM" or when you've not and can't work things out or balls'd something up "RtFM". Good luck.

Different markets will have different wants, also buyers of different models and trims will have different wants. The indication of what gear the car is in was originally part of a package of further pretence of caring about fuel consumption and emissions. With modern vehicles being so oversized and weight (and over-wheeled and over-tyred) and most of those 4/5 seaters only usually carrying 1 or 2 for the majority of the time and the fact that many drivers now prefer for the car to do as much, or everything, for them being told which gear the car is in when the driver has selected "automatic" on the gearbox is probably considered unnecessary, and perhaps a distraction from the phone, infotainment, setting the correct colour or level of ambient cabin lighting, or whatever else is considered more important.

Hi, welcome Michal. for this you might be better (also) looking and/or asking in the VCDS forum. Just for info - VAG-COM was the previous name for VCDS, VCDS you can read about in that forum, to me it's a horrible legacy looking and operation of system but many like it and if you only want to use a scan tool on a VW fine, OBDeleven is a different supplier system usually (only?) used on these so called "smart" phones or perhaps also so called "smart" devices but I've never invested this, there's also a Carista system and I expect others. There are other scan tools that cover not just VW but loads of other makes with facilities for bi-directional and 'coding' at various levels and prices. Whatever system you use you are best to ensure that the system is VW appropriate and covers your model and year of vehicle and that the program for it is fully up to date every time before you use it and that the battery for it and the 12v car battery are both not in a too low state of charge otherwise you can get recording errors. For 'coding' you want a system that does a pre-change(s) back-up before you make any changes in case you make a mistake or something else is wrong or goes wrong - obviously this fails if you don't do and save the pre-change(s) back-up to use. Many don't bother checking and installing scan tool updates before use, checking car and/or battery(s) state(s) of charge and doing back-ups, for the first two at least these are often paid professionals. 'Diagnostics & VCDS' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH.

A better set up than the horrible flimsy BMW boot set up. As with my neighbour's Citigo a large battery to cope with VW's electronics and dare I suggest perhaps less efficient German engineering quality starter motors and perhaps alternators. Take that yellow/black indicator with a pinch of salt, it looks like you might be able to peel the plastic labels back and possibly remove the cap plugs to see electrolyte ('water') levels of the 6 cells and condition of the plates in each cell. ETA: it'd be interesting to see if VW have the battery serial number as 1111111111 in the 'coding'.

@Gaz you don't necessarily need a more expensive AGM (that should really have more insulation if fitted in the engine bay) rather than an EFB if you just do very occasional driver maintenance on the new battery which you will also need t do on the AGM battery as well, plus you will need to have the AGM 'coded' correctly if changing to AGM. More details can be given if required. Plus you might be able to successfully recover your existing battery for longer good use if you want to. I think the VW 'Owner's Manual' might tell you to take the car for a drive to charge the battery (or is that BMW?) but as you have found this often isn't enough.

You will never convince a Dealership of a truth that they can't be bothered and not prepared to accept that their staff need further training or allowed the time to properly and fully diagnosis the problem. I might be wrong, I very often am, but I'd imagine even if more details are given of the issue resolve they'd not be enough for the Dealership as they don't really want to know and I very much doubt VWŠkoda in UK will give a wotsit either as the warranty probably isn't with them. Perhaps other good garages, auto-electricians or diagnostic companies may also the resolve for this issues (without expensive parts replacement which Dealerships and some other garages, mechanics and auto-electricians specialise in) in your area. This is a very minor issue, if it's just a radio clock time, I can assure you from decades of dealings with the UK motor trade they can mess you about and balls-up much more than this and make you suffer and pay for their mistakes, poor work, lack of training and attitude towards their customers.

I don't know about your 2020 car but on my wife's 2015 Fabia and others you can just disconnect at the negative battery terminal as in photos below. A battery shouldn't need changing at 4 years but many are because of their use, abuse and neglect, many owners/drivers have forgot or never learnt about battery usage and recharging (with an appropriate battery charger maintainer) because they don't read the car Owner's Manual (for a few reasons) or they'd sooner buy an expensive battery and have it 'coded' when required than very occasional driver maintenance. Disconnecting the start stop may also help with the battery working better and lasting longer. Other than perhaps some minor increase in emissions and mpg from the engine not stopping it probably does better to leave it disconnected as some owners have for years, I'd put a bit of tape over the connector ends just to stop anything getting in but others wouldn't bother.

Hi, welcome. You would probably be better looking at and/or asking in the @Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' forum of this site, note different countries could have variations in model specification. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/

ETA: just thought, could you get him into polishing and cosmetics for the car then he'll probably not want to drive it too much let alone too fast, especially at show or concours level. - Styling and Car Care - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/8-styling-and-car-care/

Perhaps he's too young for this and you and your wife's car history might not help. A much older and basic "slower" car can be much more fun to drive, you don't need to drive them really fast to get any enjoyment out of them, modern cars that put the driver as a parttime-passenger-behind-the-steering-wheel with all their electronic "aids" and "assists" make the car so remote from the actually driving (particularly with infotainment and other distractions). Doesn't matter about the badge or numbers on dials and paper, bhp, hp, PS, Nm, lb-ft, they're all quite boring at legal road speeds because they can do so much more. A less capable car is more rewarding to coax into performance and this will be at lower and legal speeds at least. Of course for this type of car, or any other, as you probably well know the best tuning aid is further driver training and it's transferable to future cars. You may well have already thought about or got him on further driver training. In the end the only relatively safe space for to use of soup'd-up cars is a racetrack and there, as on the roads, it's soon learnt that no matter what badge, power and speed you have you could sometimes do with more and much more but often you can't fully use what you've already got (same as on the roads to). A power guage may teach just how very little power is often needed and used but this could also encourage turning it up to 11 if ego or excitement figures are required. At 21 he might be better with a car that needs more servicing, maintenance, repairs and attention (that he carry's out with himself with his own earnings) then he can learn about the car and it's performance and safety and appreciate things more. As for the clutch I have no idea but it would last longer if the teachings of further driver training are applied. Good luck.

Are you keeping your foot off the brake once you have braked hard to stop? With a 2020 car can you simply disconnect the start stop at the battery negative terminal so not have to worry about it? Quick thoughts - 2020 car, was it made during covid, have VWŠKoda got any updates or Recalls on this, others owners seem to have similar issues, have you got DSG, do you use heated this, that and t'other, have you got a scan tool report on this - that's me out of ideas. ETA: have you or anyone before you added anything to the car particularly electrical perhaps?

@SNS If you can really and reliably deal with Twa*tNavs and VW computer programs then perhaps you should make yourself formally know to the Briskoda site owners as you could pick up work beyond the ken and want of VWŠkoda Dealerships (not difficult I know).

Fair enough, If you want them that's your choice, if you need them that might be another matter.

Note, I'm not an expert in diagnostics, scan tools, auto-electrics, computer programming, mechanics, VWs or anything whatsoever. How much is really expensive? There are scan tools from the usual names that cover VW models with freeze frame obviously you want the scan tool to be cover VW and your model and year and you want the program for your model and year to be fully up to date for your model and year of VW (and for the scan tool battery if applicable and car 12v battery not to be in a too low state of charge) for accurate reporting. If you go for something that is hardwired plug'd to diagnostic port rather than Bluetooth (saves worrying about tool battery charge tool) that often keep the price lower) and if you want to stand outside for bi directional you may be able to get a longer lead (well to the front of the vehicle anyway) for bi-directional activations. These can come with included "lifetime" updates and have the advantage of covering more than VWs - beware the same units for non-UK markets can be lowered priced but subscription updates so watch out when buying. I've no idea what's offered s/h and what's transferred or not on contract to subsequent owners. There's a very wide choice out there and performance features are increasing whilst real prices drop each year. All scan tools have their good and bad points, if you're willing to put up with it's (to me) hideous legacy presentation and learn it's protracted legacy operation then VCDS does seem best if you only need it for VWs.

Unfortunately GT85 is no longer the British company it was originally and is owned by a large invasive American corporation called . . . WD-40 Company. When I contacted GT85 to confirm it could be used on electrics on second attempt I got a reply that GT85 was not confirmed with electrics unlike their WD-40 Multi-Use but I and others have used it on electrics without problems. PlusGas used to be a good penetrating/releasing fluid from a British company but reintroduced by the another company and it might be rose-tinted glasses but not as good as it used to be and the packaging certainly not as good, I had a tip-drip gravity tin of previous PlusGas for a couple of decades whereas a new tin only lasted a number of years before the can leaked at the bottom losing the contents when not in use and a pressurised spray can lost it's pressure with a third of the fluid still left in it. @PetrolDave I bet your BIL also used Super Servisol 10 switch cleaner and lubricant, I can only take it on trust that it's still as good as it used to be, it's worked for a few years yet on the wiper stalk repair on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 instead of the migrating factory grease that caused the problem. I'm just about to use GT85 and Super Servisol 10 on my neighbour's "vintage" (1970s) Akai receiver as part of a repair and clean and lubricate to see what improvements can be made after 20 years of non-use and output channel blown after an incident at a party. .

Without seeing their beam I'd think those lights are more near-field driving or flood lights, certainly not fog lights. It's not my car and I'm not you where you live but it's beyond me why you would really need them in a city particularly wit busy traffic but if you want them that's fine. Modern cars are already far too over blessed with front lighting for normal road use for my liking.