Derbyshirebod

I'm surprised that they don't last very long? It's not like they are on for very long .

Those look to be a much better solution if you get no dash warning lights. Though will they get hot like the inline resistors you could also use to avoid dash warning lights? If you've got resistors getting hot then I assume they must be drawing a lot of current? A lot of money for number plate bulbs and it's not as though they do anything for the driving experience especially when it only cost 60p for 2 standard replacement bulbs.

Your set up must be like mine the LP electric pump on top of the engine mount draws the fuel up from the tank into and through the fuel filter and then feeds the HP pump. Excess fuel from the HP pump and fuel rail get returned into the fuel bowl which gets filtered and drawn back to the LP pump. Excess pressure/fuel in the filter bowl forces the fuel back out of the fuel tank return. There must be a one way valve in the feed from the fuel tank.

I have the 4 hose set up on my car. The fuel is returned into the filter then back to the fuel tank. Why would the returning fuel not be filtered if it's going through the filter? So I can't see how any debris would end up in the fuel tank? Yes I agree that on the 3 hose filter the debris can be returned to the fuel tank.

I've been told that when the HP pump fails it's quite often the bearings that start to break up so I guess you could get larger pieces ?

It's been over a week since I changed the door entry lights and I've not had the dashboard bulb warning activate. VCDS was reporting that the broken door entry light wasn't working, though again no dashboard bulb warnings. I've not scanned the car since I changed the front door entry lights, I can live with bulb error codes if only VCDS shows them. One of my number plate lights failed so I replaced both with canbus error free LED's which just kept activating the dashboard bulb warning. I couldn't be bothered with adding resistors to stop the bulb warning, so like you I went back to standard bulbs.

I don't think that's quite correct. If it's a 3 hose filter? The HP pump has a return to the fuel tank and the fuel rail returns to the fuel filter. If it's a 4 hose filter everything goes back through the filter. And it has an external LP pump on top of the right hand engine mounting.

How many hoses do you have on the fuel filter ? Do you have a photo of the engine you can post ?

Yes I've done the same and repaired several accident damaged cars over the years and had cars loaded on to lorries at salvage yards with fork trucks. As you've said when taking the full load of the car isn't likely to do much damage. In the photo my previously mentioned X Type the day I weighed it in being lifted in the way which causes very little if any damage. Though obviously in this particular situation no great care is being taken not to damage the doors ! 😊

Geeeez J.R the things I have to do on a Friday night to prove I'm right !!!! 😂 It's definitely jacking damage !! I The sills are not the lowest part of the car so even if the car had been beached on a kerb the sills would not be damaged as they are. I've just been out and taken these photos and offered up my large 2 ton jack the same size as they use in tyre bays. The cut out isn't deep enough in the rubber pad to take the full depth of the vertical edge of the sill, in any case the rubber pad is touching the floor pan before it touches the sill now it's bent!.. Yes you can jack up a car on the sills with the service jack that comes with the car as it has a deep U and spreads the load across the horizontal faces of the sill, but I'd still choose not to jack my car up like that unless I'm stuck on the side of the road and have to change a wheel. It's seriously bad practice taking all the weight of the car on the thin vertical part of the sill like that. I always jack my car up on a sub-frame. Though to lift the rear of my Superb I use the towbar and raise both wheels as there is a sticker warning not to jack under the rear wishbones. Yes it's one of my pet hates garages raising a car on the sills with a jack. I've owned numerous cars with similar sill damage. I owned an X Type Jag with the vertical sill lips flattened under both front wings!

They sound like a bunch of incompetents ! I hope they didn't jack it up on the sills. All 4 corners are bent on mine ! 😞

These are the sort of resistors you need to use when using LED's to stop fast flashing or bulb warning lights issues. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363671891489?hash=item54ac88ae21:g:kPIAAOSw~nhiC0iM

Has the problem occurred since you changed to LED bulbs? I suspect that's the cause of your problem. So called error free CANBUS LED'S set the bulb warning ⚠️ light off on my Superb. If you read all the LED CANBUS error free light listings say they are not guaranteed not to set the bulb warning off on all cars. On my Superb couldn't be arsed with all the extra cost and hassle of buying and fitting resistors which are likely to get very hot. I went back to standard feston bulbs for the number plate.

Did you drive the car before the cam belt was changed ? As suggested get the car scanned to see if there any error codes? Though it could be something like a worn lower engine mounting? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313660113239?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4907998157:g:qWMAAOSwebJiFogM&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACwPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSB0Xm7k0guzAysaIMfJcbBBXfCMq95hCgQ659msEX73c3vKNUR1DkNRD3nUcQkoG6xqBB5ZrCs3cDXfkCnnatNpl5O7kEnyCDjeGV%2Fb%2FDoMKwdkVo2ruUEd9egDfMaElLBlDEgvD1CkWCxW3Qwko0JtsAV3f0sfwVpobL1pHdYrMNjXqwevFl2uAOGu6%2Bfsd2Jp3XOofNIBloNj94e8Uj7mmb2SEIEjt9IR8AH8vSlu3FlsIbRiuNY30gyMbelfGGdUrvo823z5Ox8fpdpNhOK55AGbrZfTtq9ClcPCRiJ3cOueNzEwuTfhMdIErSzL1Cu1BVyJNwQXx1uiF0sTsqFTQoucfDsjuSp7jU3EqO9MaJmewKRnZKJTc86DU4JhBAiBlg%2FjVNbCh9xqxHXKX%2Fve7diKBYgk%2FhC5QVQSz2o%2BEBLgoXL%2B4EVgPOUXkR5l37B6OTy7ZjAroCDL4L%2BgUZwXUhL4yZsgZ0Ys4BOIN1F86gvSg0keG8zGEf2tOCmh0jE6ibshOj349ftl1npuerPqXLXmcIQUt3pO6A0l7bDzSoGApPsy8RrZqaT%2BgVMrWezEh6qg3R%2BeEnj4PxjlqUz24Uw5g9VAGztGx0oZvGo6paQ7i7kHOy7blQjWhKJ2Z4H%2FCuPTuM7h%2Fh8vMV3HhCPvY1swiXsix%2FzQC6HJjyBjxRDaj5QgBMKFDyZnAr9kEOKwIHTAF8xoSX2uj7ey3wBn7PdFUWbf%2Brub%2BeTuvK4IaHhcjBe6iL4Jvlj86%2BMJ%2F6g6nXj%2BFd9skCFqxxi7ZL4lq49O2XxXLzlG%2FomDVXxHZax%2BEA6VM6LqyurXWiaZ7bgReU5njf%2BkK2tZVaQoD6iVe7%2F9dH%2FBPZlhD3l5X31wo6aPcewQxvQ%2Bv1z71xZzFZ|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBMnsKYmvNf

Don't you have the different wheel size and tyre options listed on the inside of your fuel flap? I'm changing the wheels on my Superb from 17" 225/45 down to 16" 205/55. There is just over 1mm difference in the rolling diameter of the wheels.

In my experience If your getting a bulb warning if the bulb hasn't failed it is going to do at some point. But you could be waiting a long time before it does. You've posted "Right turn signal light bulb Open circuit/short circuit" so the filament has probably broken in which ever right hand side bulb it is and is making an intermittent contact. I'd change the indicator bulbs one at a time starting with the easiest one to get. Rear light cluster 1st?

I bought my Superb with a damaged door entry light that had been bodged together with Araldite. Original genuine 1K09474a lights are a ridiculous price! New or 2nd hand🙄 I'm not usually into after market stuff but quite impressed these cheap LED entry lights.

I'd just top it up with the concentrate. I regularly use a dehumidifier in the house for drying clothes and use the water it collects for diluting coolant. Though I've used tap water for years as I've never lived in a hard water area where I've had issues with limescale with domestic appliances.

You've posted in the wrong forum page. This is for the MK2 Superb. The problem could be due to a worn / damaged rear lower engine mount (dog bone mount) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334016546568?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.2|Cars+Year%3A2012|Model%3AFabia&hash=item4dc4f00708:g:4TYAAOSwj6xgr4VC

I wouldn't have though so it's not like the rolling tyre outer diameter is likely to change very much depending on what size combination you're swapping around.

From what I can see. Skoda Superb 1.8 4x4 - 2.0 4x4 Tdi (2008-2015) Front vented brake disks Ø 312mm Rear solid brake disks Ø 282mm What makes you ask that?

I'd check the front anti roll bar drop links for play in the ball joints. They wear out for a pass time right across the VW, Seat , Skoda range. Not particularly expensive if you're capable of changing them yourself you can do it for under £15.

Can you lock / unlock the doors with the remote? If you can then the central locking switch fuse is okay and it probably is the central locking switch or the wiring from the switch to the central locking module.

Bent slider pins maybe ? Or the caliper carrier is not mounted flat ?

As Xman has said there is something not right ! It can't be a coincidence that two discs on the same corner have rusted in such a way in such a short period of time. The rust isn't the issue here. It's what letting the rust occur that's the problem. Something is damaged or mounted incorrectly?