kodiaqsportline

I'm looking at the replies above re: brake fluid. I agree with everything people say, but you're missing my point. I'll say it again... Whether brake fluid gets tested and it passes OK or not, I've never heard of any qualified mechanic who'd not recommend the brake fluid be changed after 2yr. Then again mperhaps they're all wrong and it's just a fad? As for the USA - the USA is a big place, there's a hell of a difference between Death Valley and Hawaii when it comes to moisture content. What garage said 5yr old brake fluid is OK ? It's not in anyway like tyres or anything that wears. Your tyres may pass the MOT but 6 months later you can see if they're worn passed the limit. Do we check the hygroscopicity of our brake fluid every few months? NOBODY does ! The only time it'll be tested is the following year. And as I said above, the problem isn';t just with the brake fluid or it's boiling point, it's the moisture affecting the brake lines over time. A fad? FFS people. Think abut what you're saying! I hope anyone coming along and reading these comments don't treat brake fluid changes as a fad !

35k? Brake fluid is changed because it's hygroscopic, mileage isn't a factor. Are you sure you're not getting this mixed up with something else? I can't imagine a qualified mechanic wouldn't recommend brake fluid be changed every two years, three years tops. I've never come across anyone who doesn't recommend it be changed every 2yr. As i say, whether the customer has it changed or not is another matter, but for them to say that the brake fluid is OK after 5yrs 😲 What garage is telling you that? VW group cars are sort of unique in that say it can go the 1st 3yr without it being changed. ( every 2yr thereafter ). I think all other manufacturer recommends it be changed every 2yr.

Are you saying you have the original brake fluid, that garages have checked it and said not to bother changing it because it's fine? 😲 I've heard of people not changing their brake fluid and not experiencing issues, but that's a first for me if the garage has said it's fine after 5yr. They may not have had it checked and the brakes themselves may well be fine, but I'd be very worried about what 5yr old fluid is doing to the pipes.

Who advised you that? I've never heard of a customer being able to track the build themselves. Skoda notified me when the car was allocated a build slot, when it went in to production and when it was built / on it's way from the factory to the dealer. Suppose the dealer could have supplied more info if I'd asked but all I needed to know was is the car being delivered around the ETA they gave me when I ordered it. And it was.

If you have a mk1 Kodiaq then best posting in the mk1 Kodiaq section.

If your car is currently waiting for the boat then you've posted in the wrong area. You'll have bought a facelifted Mk1 Kodiaq not a Mk2 The Mk2 isn't available to order here in the UK at this time. It's possible no RHD cars have even been built yet - all the press launch cars I've seen are LHD. Your dealer won't know about Mk2 specs, neither will customer services as to date no UK spec details are available.

Not anywhere near my car ! I use zipwax, a sponge and plenty elbow grease The car is normally taken on a run for a few miles after cleaning just to dry things off. The calipers are fine. Now if you were to say I'm guilty of overwashing the car, my neighbours would agree with you.

I too had a 'free' pre MOT check today - at ATS Looking at all the options, I took out a 2yr service plan with Skoda when it was on offer last month £16 x 24 for 2 services. The MOT cost £22 ( Groupon deal with ATS Euromaster ) Brake fluid cost £45 ( + 15% off if your over 60 ) with ATS. Halfords / National offer a similar service - Sign up to their Motoring plus scheme ( £49 a year ) and that includes a free MOT + £10 discount on any service + 5% of std price I'm also going to have the tyres changed. 20" don't come cheap but National currently doing a deal 15% off Bridgestone. So going thru Topcashback, I can buy a set of Vector4 All seasons for just under £800. People speak about VW specialists - well our Karoq went to a VW specialist for it's 3rd service but it wasn't any different and not much cheaper than main dealer. Their brake fluid change was also £75 and to be fair, lots of small local indi's around these parts also charge over £70 for a brake fluid change. Had it done by National on the Karoq last year £29 which included some special offer discount code at the time. I've no issues whatsoever with Skoda servicing the car but maintenance - nope.

Just as a follow up to this. I dropped my car off this morning to have a quick pre- MOT check at a popular indi service centre. On my way back to collect the car, my head was down trying to avoid the wind and rain and noticed all the new cars sitting at the Ford dealer forecourt had said rust on their discs. Then I passed the MG dealership - all their new cars had surface rust on the discs too. Mazda? Tsame story. And finally the Kia dealer, all their new cars outside on the forecourt had surface rust. As long as the car is being used, surface rust isn't an issue. Back to collect my car. It's covered just over 13k miles in 3yr and same report as it's last service a Skoda dealer - corrosion on rear discs outer edge. Unlikely to be an MOT failure but rather an advisory. Said I could ask Skoda as car still under warranty but they're likely to refuse given the mileage. I won't bother asking. Confirmed it's a common issue on the rears with VW group cars. I never asked him for a quote to replace the discs but cheapest parts I can find are approx £116 for Bosch / Brembo ventilated discs, and approx £36 for Bosch / Brembo pads. Labour to fit would be around £70 at an indi in this area. So around £210 to have them replaced. Even if Skoda said they could replace them for £100 I'd still take the Bosch or Brembo option. Why would I ever want to have the same OEM discs / pads again? Not sure who the OEM manufacturer of VW discs are, but I'm guessing Catherdral City for Skoda and Davidstow for Audi. In all seriousness, their discs are likely to be sourced from the same manufacturer who produces their wiper blades, becasue they're sh1te too.

Just out of interest... I've been dealing with my immediate families insurance for 40years and extended families insurance for what must be 30 years now. Pre internet and comparison site days, I'd call all the brokers to get the best insurance deal. It use to take a good few days to accumulate quotes. Over that time I thought I knew most of the tricks to get a better deal - I'm your sterotypical Scot One thing has been consistant tho, there's never been any formula that says one car is cheaper to insure than another apart from the goldern rule - an automatic was more to insure than a manual. Take two cars exactly the same - one manual, one auto and the auto would be more expensive to insure. ( I'd have thought it would have been the other way round but statistically Autos must be more expensive for an insurer ). One myth is that insurance is based on a car's group rating. I never found that to be the case in all of those 40 years. A car that's in a higher insurance group is often cheaper to insure than one in a lower group. I've never been able to work out the purpose of insurance groups other than say an age restirction when renting a car. The fact below support this. Oh Boy, do they support it ! So move on to 2023. I'm gobsmacked by what's happeing right now in the insurance industry. If anyone tells you it's because this, that or the other then they're liars. I doubt even the insurer themselves know, I think it's likely all down to some algorithem their computers use. Picking up from another thread, the insurance form my Kodiaq last year was £330 and the renewal is £366. I've checked around and the cheapest quote with another insurer is £425. The prices then go skyward. The majority are in the £650 - £750 range. RBS Direct line was approaching £1000. Saga? they quoted me over £1200 😲 I've never seen such a range of prices all for what is basically the same level of insurance cover. The 'big guns' such as Churchill were quoting £700, Esure £650. Rarely do I use the same insurer 2yrs in a row but it's not unheard of for me to stick with the renewal - obviously that's a no brainer this year. But before I do, I thought I'd run a little experiment. If the renwals have jumped so much for my Kodiaq - what would it have been like for other cars I've owned or almost bought? So using Confused.com as the standard and keeping everything consistant other than the car itself, the results are: Kodiaq Sportline 1.5 auto 3yr old, valued £27k ( ins grp 17E ) - Flow Insurance - £425.75 What if I'd still been driving my old car. The Octavia was actually cheap to insure, I paid a fraction over £200 a year. Octavia 1.4 SEL estate manual 6yr old, valued 11k ( 17E ) - Flow insurance - £448.36 Answers on a postcard who can account for that price compared to the Kodiaq ! It's insane - it breaks all the rules. There isn't one single reason that the car should be more expensive to insure. Karoq Edition 1.5 auto 4yr old valued £22k ( 16E ) - Flow Insurance - £414.05 So only £10 cheaper than my current Kodiaq Sportline ! And £34 cheaper than a much older and cheaper Octavia ( which has the smallest insurance group rating ) I almost bought a 5 series estate rather than the Kodiaq. At the time the insurance was approx £100 extra... BMW 520d mild hybrid Msport estate auto 3yr old, valued £26K - Aviva £722.89 The difference is now £300 but to be fair most of the quotes are around this price. The vast majority of quotes for my Kodiaq were also around this price. Out of interest, the day I went to order the Karoq was the day the Kamiq arrived in our showrooms. If I could have amanged to fit golf equipment in to the boot I'd have bought one. It would have been a cheaper car to buy and run then the Karoq. From memory not sure the 1.0 was available is top spec DSG at the time so it had to be a 1.5... Kamiq SEL 1..0 auto 4yr old valued £17k ( 14E ) - Flow £405.92 So £8 less for a cheaper car, much lower insurance, smaller engine than the Karoq I eventually bought? Or £20 less that my current Kodiaq Sportline which is £10k more expensive, much larger, much higher insurance grouping, much faster etc. As I said above, if anyone can come up with a reasonable idea why insurance prices are what they are, then they're a better man or woman than me. Also just bought a little Yaris to replace the Karoq which came with loads of safety systems as std equipment and has the speed of an overweight snail ( non turbo 3cyl engine ) Toyota Yaris Cross GR Sport 1.5 hybrid ( 12E ) - 3mth old valued £27k - Flow £466.55 That's more expensive to insure than any of the Skodas despite being 2 insurance groups lower than the Kamiq is !! It's £20 more than the same insurer want's for my Kodiaq which has the same value FFS. 17E vs 12E What's the point of insurance groups? What does the value of a car matter? What does the age of a car matter? It's all b0llocks.

Obviously the ride of a car is subjective but when someone describes it as 'appauling' and the passenger nearly being thrown out of the seat, something has to be wrong. I can see how some folk don't like the ride on the 225/40/19 but even I wouldn't have descibed the ride on 19's like that. 215/50/18 is much more forgiving than the 19's. First thing to check is your tyre pressures. How much tread is left on those tyres? Personally I didn't like Turanza's ( forget what car they were on - it may have been my Ateca which also had 18" alloys ), but then again that was more to do with wear rate and road noise. I changed them to Vector4 all seasons which drastically improved the noise, but can't say the ride was much better. Why not have your car checked out?

I'm just reading this with disbelief. OP said that he BELIEVED she was on a mobile phone. Unless someone saw her on a mobile then he has no evidence of it. Respondant replies ' Driver on mobile phone'? OP says police let her off because she was a Muslim 😲 The police that turned up were only young so obviously they didnt know what they were doing... WTF Nothing like stereotyping eh? As for mobility driving 'free' cars - I find that level of ignorance shocking. Let's just insult all those on mobility while we're at it. If Toot is correct then it's the 3rd party who may be insured by Direct Line - why would they be contacting the OP offering courtesy cars etc when the money is likely to be coming out of their own pockets? It'll be the OP's own insurers who'll be handling his claim - they're the ones who may pursue additional costs ( assuming he has legal cover ). And then irony of all ironies - the OP has just said " I always try to park my car well on to the pavement ". And he gets hit by a mobility driver. Some might call that Karma. Trying to up the intelligence a little ( not hard ! ) OP - from those pics it's almost guaranteed your car will be written off. If your Octavia is a 2004 model as indicated by the reg, then best thing you can do right now is start your homework looking at how much a replacement will cost. If you've just spent £800 tidying the car up then think of it as seeking a better direct replacement than you would have if you hadn't spent that £800. Your insurer will make you an offer so best have all the data to hand as soon as they do. Some will say you only receive the cars trade value. That's true but you have to buy a replacement and the difference between your cars trade value and buying a replacement is called uninsured losses which as it's clearly the fault of the 3rd party. As per above, if you have legal cover then your own insurance should be doing that for you, if not, then you do that yourself or contact someone like Skoda Ensurance. ( be warned, their goalis making money for themselves ). One trick you can play if there's any problem is to keep a courtesy car / rental car for as long as possible. The 3rd party will want to settle the claim a.s.a.p. rather than keep forking out for an expensive rental car ! Good luck.

Few manufacturers ( if any ? ) use service books. Can't see why anyone would go to the trouble of stickers etc if the car wasn't serviced so I'd have nodoubt it was done. VW group are famous for not dotting their i 's and not crossing their t 's so to hear that some online purchase has failed doesn't surprise me. What does surprise me is that's your only option. Can't you buy the said service pack via the dealer rather than online? Don't know what happens in OZ but over here it's VWFS ( VW financial services ) who administer such schemes. I'd give them a call if you get no joy elsewhere. edit - there no T&C that say a car has to be 2 or 3yr old before you can buy those packages is there?

just seen this reply. We customers have no contact with the underwriter. Customer services will have no contact with them either. The only contact we have is with the monkey, not the organ grinder. I was surprised today to find my renewal quote with Aviva has gone up from £325 to £366. Not pleasantly surprised of course but when the cheapest comparison site quote ( for less cover and double the excess ) was £407 with Flow, the next being £498 with Churchill ( their basic cover ), I don't ever recall seeing such a wide spread of prices in car insurance. I've insured with Direct Line several times in the past, sometimes they're one of the cheaperst but they've never been that far off the mark. This year they want £798 FFS. There's nobody can give you a reason why your insurance price has altered. I thought I knew most of the tricks to lessen your insurance premium but listened with interest to Martin Lewis on 5 Live during the week. He was saying that they've found the ideal time to buy your insurance is approx 21day before renewal. For Joe Average , if you search 30 days before renewal, then the prices are high. They lower towards that 21 day mark, then as the renewal date approaches, the prices steadily increase again. I've certainly noticed prices changing in the month leading up to renewal but never realised there was any pattern to it. Now how does that relate to some fixed rule that a price has changed because of some previous incident? Insurance premiums - it's no different to the tic-tac bookmaker on a racecourse. He has a bag of money and he'll constantly alter the odds depending on how many bets are placed and his potential pay out. Over time, the ones who get their sums right can make a killing, the ones who get it wrong ( like John McCririck ) have to look for another career. Speaking of which, just look at the number of insurers / brokers who've gone to the wall in recent years. Many of them are now owned by the same parent company.

@Toot - just looking at local news. Thought it may interest you. May or may not have some relevance to this topic: Cameron Motors Perth 😲 Picture shows the VW dealership. Not sure their layout these days but the blaze looks to be around what was the workshop area. Their workshop used to serve both VW and Audi showroom next door. Lot's of Audi EV's !

You need to speak with your dealer. If you've only recently ordered the car and you have a kind dealer, they may be able to order it before it goes thru the system. But in general, if the contract you signed makes no mention the deposit is refundable then the only way you'll get your money back is if there's a problem with the order outside of your control. If you've simply changed your mind then it's likely the deposit isn't refundable. £2000 is an awful lot of money for a deposit to secure any mainstream car. Typically I'm asked to pay £100 - £200 if I'm at the dealership when I order or double that if I've ordered the car thru a broker and then speak with the dealer over the phone / email. I've seen the odd occasion where if you add certain optional extras, the deposit may go up to £1000. ( presumably the car will be harder / may take longer to sell if the dealer is unable to cancel it )

Can't answer your question directly but it can be fitted to a Kodiaq. Whether it's cost effective or not only you can tell. Companies who do this over here will charge the best part of £1000 I'd have thought for Blind Spot alone. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/507396-blind-spot-assist-retrofit-%E2%98%91%EF%B8%8F/ I'm sure the East Yorkshire retrofit guys would be happy with an all expenses paid trip to Melbourne Or parts only... https://www.kufatec.com/en/skoda/kodiaq/blind-spot-sensor-incl.-rear-traffic-alert-for-skoda-kodiaq-ns7-41950?number=41950-2

Poor value perhaps but it only becomes a rip off if they don't tell before you've purchase the car. Just thought it strange that after all the launch videos by motoring websites and the press releases that, as fas as I'm aware, if true then they kept this news rather quiet. The Skoda brand is defo loosing it's 'value' mojo. Each report I see gives me less reason to replace my current car with another.

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/business-software/skoda-stops-including-sat-nav-shift-downloadable-features I never heard this mentioned in any of the launch blurb

Service Plan - Sounds like I've done the same or very similar to that car. Had the service plan from new - covered first two services. I'm soon due the 3rd service and decided to take out another service plan. There were two options - a 2yr plan or a 3yr plan. The two yr plan I have gives me two services - a normal service and the larger service. I've been given 4yr for those sevices to be completed by but it's up to me when I request them. Weirdly it's also up tome what order I request them ? I'll going with what Skoda recommend. These extended plan do stat that the plan is transferable if I sell the car - that sounds like the deal you're being given, I assume it's what services are left on your plan. The dealer looked up the plan on their system and I have to say they were far more informative than VWFS who runs the plan. If they went to the expense of replacing the belt then personally that'd be enough to satisfy me that everything else was in order. Navigation. If it's a Skoda dealer then ask them to update everything prior to delivery. If you buy the car make sure the navigation SD card is there. Just turn on the navigation system and make sure it's working. It's normal for dealers to keep the navigation disc / SD card locked away rather than leave it in the car as people pinch them. They should put it in when you arrive at the dealership to collect the car but sometimes they forget. Again if the dealer has gone to the trouble an expense of changing the cambelt then I'd expect them be the type of dealer who'd already have taken care of any updates / advisories. The only major one that springs to mind is if the car has a sunroof. If it has then I'm almost 100% certain that a 2018 model would need the upgrade applied that avoids the drains blocking. ( You may have read elsewhere about water ingress attributed to the sunroof - these pre-modified drains were the main culprit ). Skoda maps? No manufacturers maps are as good as Google or dedicated SatNav like Garmin but they work well enough - never use them much but never had a problem with Skoda. A 'free' year subscription to services like 'traffic updates' should be provided if it's an approved car. Worth asking. I believe most owners chose not to continue with the subscribe ion beyond that 'free' period. I certainly didn't think it was worth the money. At least they give you a year to make up your mind.

Hi. You've written lots of information about how the process of how oil was changed on your car. Who was it that changed oil? Was this done at a garage? Were you present when the gearbox oil was being changed? My advice would be to take the car to a proper VW dealer or VW specialist and have them change the gearbox oil again a.s.a.p. The longer you run the car the more long-term damage you could be causing if this wasn't done correctly. Even if it were just for piece of mind, I'd have the transmission oil changed again. The other thing that bothers me is you say that after changing the oil, the gearshifts became much smoother. They are not supposed to become much smoother - if they do then that suggests to me there were problems with your gearbox before the oil was changed.

Sorry for not replying sooner. Depends on the service plan. If it's a Skoda service plan then it's with the car. Double check this but that's a big bonus. Fair enough with the service regime but the reasoning is 100% wrong. The extended service regime ( sometimes referred to as longlife or variable ) does not apply to low mileage cars, quite the opposite. The rule of thumb is a car that travels under 10k miles per year should be on an annual ( sometimes referred to as fixed or 'time and mileage ) service program. Thats to say a car that does short distances suffers more wear and tear than a car that sits on a motorway all day. Obviously depends on how you use the car, but for the average person returning to an annual servce interval would be a wise move, especailly if it's already paid for 👍 If the cambelt was done by the dealer then there should be no concerns. If the advice at the time was to change the cambelt at 5yr then it's brilliant that advice was followed ( it bodes well for the rest of the car being well looked after ) but in hindsight the " don't fix something that ain't broken' rule would apply. Just something else in your favour... Like the car I owned, you'll have the older infotainment system in that karoq which is a bonus because you can easliy update maps and software yourself. The newer systems are supposed to do this over-the-air but it's a tad buggy and in some instances needs a software upgrade. I preferred the infotainment system in that car.

I assume you've driven the car? Drive and reverse the car at walking pace and make sure the revs don't jump for no reason - if it does it there could be issues with the clutch. You say it's approved? i.e. 12 mth warranty? Say you're concerned about is being a DQ200 so you'd be happier if the deal included an extra year extended warranty. ( they can only say no ). Car looked to be on an annual service regime but there's no history for 2022 ? Has the car had 2 previous owners? Looks to me like the first owner had the car 3yr where it was serviced annually. But the 2nd owner - I'd be questioning that. Did they ever service the car? Kinda odd that it'd have the cambelt replaced at the end of July and now it's up for sale so I guess it was the garage who may have carried this out when they received it? if I went to the expense of changing the cambelt it'd be because I was keeping the car. ( It's only recently come to light the cambelt didn't need changing afterall ).

I have to stress again that this is not a One Call Insurance issue - it's an issue with who ever you're insured by and it'll be the same with which ever broker you go thru buying the same insurance. Don't want to turn this in to War and Peace so if you want to go with an approved repairer then so be it, but you're not gaining anything having the car seen by a VW approved repairer - all it means is they're guaranteeing work for themselves. I have first hand experience with an approved repairer and I see that Volvos approved repairer is also a VWFS approved repairer in our part of the world - namely Arnold Clark. That in itself should tell anyone the value of an approved repairer ! I wouldn't wish my worst enemy to have their car repaired by Arnie. I urge you to read the T&C of your insurance policy rather than listen to what some call centre says. As I said above, you may find the guarantee is less or the excess is increased, but not unless it's the cheapest of cheap insurance, it sounds unusual to me that the insurer is allowed to dictate who repairs the car. Speaking of guarantee. VW approved parts are only guaranteed for 2yr - it's likely you find your insurer guarantees their approved centre parts for 3yr, so it's pretty much a better deal all round using an insurer approved centre. The corrosion warranty you speak of? They're not worth the paper they're written on. What's the warranty on the insurance approved repairer? Many on the will give 'lifetime' guarantees with their work ( that's not to say they're not worth the paper they're written on either ). Corrosion is notoriously difficult to prove after some years. Remember, it's from the inside out and has to be deemed a manufacturing fault. Regardless of what Skoda may say, I'd question that the repair has to be carried out by an approved repairer. Protectionism has been illegal in the EU for many years ( the UK still subscribe to that law ). What ever Skoda say, I think what they probably mean is that the warranty is maintained as long as approved parts and materials are used. I can't see how they can dictate who carries out that work - as long as it's carried out by a bona-fide repair professional then what's the problem? ( Can I see Arnold Clark ever using approved parts and materials? )

As I understand it, One Call Insurance are a broker, not an insurer. Have a look at your policy again. Not saying this is what you have but it's normal practice with most 'cheaper' insurers to have something in the T&C that say the car is repaired by their approved centre and if you want to specify a centre yourself then the excess is increased and/or the repair isn't guaranteed for as long. These brokers will have already have a vested interest in sending the car to the repair centres they've struck deals with. And this is the part that's very hard to understand... if they're unable to set systems up ( your radar system for example ), they'll take the ca to the nearest Skoda dealer for them to do the work. There's something you might not be aware of. What's a VAG approved repairer? When I hit a deer, I first asked my dealer about repair - at first the damage looked less than the excess so I was just going to pay for it myself. They would have actually contracted the work out to a 3rd party - the same one as ohter insurers use ! In the end the car went to the insurers approved repairer ( Aviva / Solus ) and in turn they had their local Skoda dealer set the systems up. Have to say they did a pi55 poor job of painting the repair but to their credit, acknowledged the fault and made it good. When some other fault related to the Skoda setting appeared next month, I bypassed the repairer and contacted their dealer direct. Turns out it was an odd fault nobody could understand, apparently some piece of coding had been lost which had affected other systems. All sorted after they discussed the issue with Skoda HQ and they billed the insurer themselves. From that very slight damage to my car what I thought would cost less than my £350 excess to repair, the insurance bill came to... £4004 😲 If I were you, I wouldn't worry one little bit if it's an approved repairer or not. Hope that helps. Edit: just thinking on that Skoda Assurance thing... that's when if you have an accident, they say contact them and they'll organise everything with an 'approved repairer'. I did contact Skoda Assurance after I hit the deer who then said that because it was an 'at fault' accident, they couldn't help. In other words they're nothing but ambulance chasers - they make they're money by claiming off 3rd party insurers. 2nd thing is I found out that they too would have used the same repair centre who are in no way what-so-ever related to VW Group as they repair any brand of car.