kodiaqsportline

It was Maxxis I used on my Karoq. All reviews were positive considering their price. From memory they were 2/3rd price of the bigger brands. Did you have trouble sourcing them? Even my local Maxxis dealer couldn't get them in the size I wanted so ended up buying them online from MyTyres. Couldn't find them anywhere else online. I don't drive fast or hard enough to be bothered by handling, they were bought purely to reduce noise but that never really worked out. I guess with 225/40/19, any tyre wuld stuggle in the noise department. The cross climates I put on the Kodiaq are now almost silent. Not sure why they were noisy when they first went on. Newness? I dunnio. The noise reduction was instant with the Vectors on my Octavia - it's taken them a few hundred miles to settle down. Anyhow, I'm hearing more wind noise from the wing mirrors now which I guess means they're doing their job. When I drove off the other day, my passenger asked if the car was electric or 'one of those hybrid things' .

Just to add my tuppence worth. The OP has a 2022 Kodiaq which will have an MIB3 system but you guys appear to be talking about MIB2. I bought the correct reverse camera and loom online, installed the hardware then had a VAG specialists wire it in and install the software. I believe you need the correct equipment to overcome component protection with MIB3.

Beyond comment. Hopefully the moderators can end this thread a.s.a.p

You really have this so wrong. You signed up to an agreement which says: "This service plan is fully transferable to a subsequent owner if you decide to sell your vehicle before the plan comes to an end, provided that you have made all the payments. You and the new vehicle owner will need to advise us of the transfer in writing within a period of 21 days following the transfer of ownership. The purchaser must also agree in writing to be bound by the terms and conditions of this agreement. The agreement is non-refundable and non-transferable to another vehicle." Therefore you have no basis for complaint. Here's what should have happened. Someone wrote off your vehicle. If there was a service plan you lost out on then it's the 3rd party insurer who pays the money - it comes under "additional losses". And as a footnote, if you felt you were sold short on the price of your damaged car, that too should have been claimed for in 'other losses.' VWFS had no legal obligation whatsoever to refund you the monies because they did everything according to the agreement. So rather than bash them, you should feel extremely lucky. VWFS trying to steal your payments? Now that's just stupid. The warning should be "read the agreement" I certainly wouldn't have refunded you.

The use of the exclamation mark says it all. When you're so close to list then it's a big gamble ordering in advance many have been caught out with small price rises. And cross your fingers there's not another budget ! That number of options could well delay the build ( might even roll in to the new model ) which could unwittingly qualify for the higher tax. Me? If I were going for a new mk1 Kodiaq, I'd be looking at what UK dealers have in stock. That said, not sure your're aware of it, and admittidly it's confusing, but the list price isn't what's given in the price list. The OTR price that Skoda quotes will be slightly over that list price that used for annual VED calculation. I believe the 1st year VED and registration fee aren't included when calculating the list - so that's £55 registration fee but more importantly the 1st year tax which I'm unabe to comment on because I don't know the latest data or the exact emmissions for the car you've configured. I'm guessing t's probably within the £650 - £1000'ish range. So for VED luxury tax, I'd have thought you could go up to a brochure ( OTR ) price of around £40700 - £41000 before that extra tax kicks in. It's best asking your dealer what the exact price is. They don't make it easy to calcluate !

If I were in your position, I'd be looking at a 3rd party solution. DSG gearbox specialists may be able to source units or depending on the failure, may be able to repair your current unit.

That higher rate supplement tax ( used to be known commonly known as luxury car tax ) is applicable to the full list price of car + list price of any options / accessories. If you're going new Kodiaq, then realisitcally you only have SE Drive to chose from. ( or fancy a std SE-L in no cost solid paint ). As long as you keep to the 1.5tsi, you'd have to go some to buy a Karoq that qualifies for the addtional tax but it certainly can be done. I think both 2.0 Sportlines will qualify. I have to say that in disbelief - over £40k for a bog standard 2.0tsi Karoq Sportline - 😲 Jeez oh. As you say, it'll be a rare breed who's willing to pay almost £600 a year to tax a Karoq so that in itself must lead to eyewatering depreciation here in the UK.

🤪 Hardly Skoda's fault. If someone were to travel 20 miles past several other garages on the way then that's a sign of loyalty. If someone chooses somewhere closer because it's cheaper or more convenient... It sounds like it has everything to do with loyalty to me. Personally I wouldn't offer a customer goodwill if they're going to take their business elsewhere but as I say, what you ask for you don't get, so it's at least worth a try. personally I can't see wear and tear can be justified. Question: how are you going to prove that the bolt's came loose as a result of faulty manufacture? Until you can answer that question, the likelyhood is a goodwill gesture is all you have to rely on for Skoda to fix the car. That's why I suggested it's probably better to spend your time looking for cheaper fixes from a 3rd party.

There's no harm asking but I would be surprised if Skoda would contribute anything toward the repair and that's because if they were to contribute, they'd want something in return. It has nothing to do with anyone checking the bolts during a service, rather If you'd been loyal to the Skoda brand in maintaining your car, then in return they may reward you with goodwill. Why show goodwill to someone who hasn't been loyal? I'd have to search the internet about this issue as this is the first I've heard of the problem. That's not to say it doesn't happen to others, I'm just saying it's not common enough for there to be a manufacturing issue hence compensation. My guess is the manufacturer is likely to say it's a wear and tear item, all part of the pleasure of owning something mechanical, but as I say if you don't ask you don't get. You're going to be paying premium prices at a Skoda dealer to have it repaired so I'd be concentrating my efforts looking for an independent to carry out the work.

If a tyre is deemed quieter in the outside then why no surprise it's louder on the inside? What's the reasoning behind it? I'd have assumed if it's quieter on the outside it'd also be quieter or at least the same on the inside. Can't think of any reason why it'd be louder.

I can't keep up with European law but I don't think there are any plans to make is compulsory at the moment. Where it has been introduced as a standard since 2022 I believe, is NCAP safety. That's why you find most manufacturers fitting it as standard - they obviously want the full 5 star safety certificate. I admire the likes of Dacia who's new cars only revieve 1 or 2 stars. Is their safety really compromised? Their boss said why go to the expense of installing lane assist when most people just turn it off. He does have a point. I will admit that lane assist makes me a better driver. The highway code says you're supposed to let other road users aware of your intentions prior to making a manouver therefore if you indicate, steering assist is switched off. So I can see why it's there, it's just that I really hate it.

Some years ago I changed to Vector 4 on my Octavia estate for no other reason then to reduce the noise levels generated by it's 17! Dunlop Sport factory supplied affair. It transformed the car. I bought them at Costco for a ridiculous price - something like £240 for all four. Just over I year ago I changed to Maxxis All season on the Karoq for much the same reason - the 225/40/19 standard tyres were quite noisy. Think I paid around £400 from memory which was much less than what other brands were asking - all the reviews I read were positive towards Maxxis. If there was a difference is noise then it was minimal. To me it wasn't worth the outlay if noise was the only factor. Yesterday I changed to CrossClimate SUV 2 on myKodiaq with 20". This time noise wasn;t the issue - last year I was caught out with traction in very light compacted snow. I guess 20" tyres on a heavy FWD isn;t a good combination. Swore that whenever I saw I deal I'd change them. Could have bought Vector 4's again but the Cross Climates weren't that much more so why not. In the short distance I've driven so far I have to say I regret the decision. Despite the official noise rating being 1db less than the standard Conti summer tyres the car was delivered with, there is defo a higher noise inside the cabin now. Not sure if Vector 4's would have been any different as the tread pattern look similar to the Michelin's ( ratings had the Vectors 1db higher ), but I'm kinda wishing now I'd gone for seperate winter / summer tyres. It's far, far too early to make a judgement on fuel consumption but given the typical drive I did today in this temp and road conditions, I'd have expected slightly lower mpg from my old tyres. Even if the mpg proves to be no different, that's impressive for All Seasons.

Be careful what you read because there so much misinformation out there. This is an excerpt from CARBUYER magazine - you'd think they'd know what they're talking about ? "Rejecting a car purchased on finance: If you’ve used a finance package such as a PCP agreement or Personal Contract Hire to purchase your car then..." Straight away that's complete tosh. You haven't purchased the car until the PCP agreement has been settled. Many of these 'experts' haven't a clue how PCP works. Forget about rejecting the car - It's not your car to reject. You haven't bought a car, what you've bought is a loan. You signed a contract where by in return for a monthy payment, the finance company are loaning you their car. If that car isn't fit for purpose then it's that finance agreement you need to terminate. If you're not happy then you need to contact the regulator, the FCA - the Financial Conduct Authority. Check the T&C on the PCP agreement you signed.

Ah! Rejection isn't an option because the car is not yours to reject. Your quarrel lies with your finance agreement. It's up to the owner what they want to do with it. You've little option but to wait. You'll probably find somewhere in the PCP contract that they are entitled to supply alternative transport in such a case. The alternative transport can't go on indefinitely but yes, you'll have to liase with the finance company and await their decision. My only advice is whatever you do, dismiss any thought of stopping your monthly PCP payments in a way of protest or whatever as then you'll find yourself in breach of the agreement - that's the last thing you want. I'd be surprised if you hear anything from them. If you've been to the dealer 10 times then it's not as if they're ignoring you, it's just they're having trouble fixing the problem so I'm not sure Skoda UK can do anything about it other than check that the dealer has followed the correct fault diagnoses procedure. Skoda UK have nothing to do with finance, that's handled by VWFS. ( VW Financial Services ). You'd be better off writing to them but if they say your case is being dealt with there's nothing more you can do but wait. It's one of the downsides about PCP that people rarely talk about .

Never heard of a central locking issue as serious as that. But speakin from a legal point of view, forget Skoda, it has nothing to do with them, your contract is with the garage you purchased the car from. ( the seller ). UK law is this: 1: within the first month from purchase you can reject a car under most circumstances where there's a fault. You're way, way above what could be considered a minor fault. It's good practise to give the seller an opportunity to fix that fault but if they are unable to do so then rejection should be a very simple straight forward affair. You've given them 10 attempts !!! OMG. 2: Within the first six months from purchase, it's a little more difficult in that it's up to the seller to prove the car wasn't faulty at time of purchase. If you bought the car in May and 1st reported the problem in July then this is where you fall. The time for rejection is taken from when the fault was 1st reported so 'the 8 weeks to go' is nothing to worry about. 3: from 6mth to a year you can still reject a car but the onus falls on the owner to prove there was a fault when the car was purchased. That doesn't apply to you. I'm not sure what you mean buy awaiting a case handler? Your rejection should be straight forward. Write a brief letter to the dealer principal stating that your exercising your legal right under UK law to reject the faulty vehicle you were sold as it's not fit for purpose and that you want a full refund. Some people talk about rejection as if it's an easy process - in many cases it's not, but if what you say is accurate, you have a stone wall case. You could approach citizens advice but they'll tell you much the same. Good luck. Edit - just thinking - you're perfectly entitled to a full refund but you could ask the dealer principal if he's able to swap a similar car. Personally I would have no faith whatsoever in the car they've sold you - I'd never want to see it again.

That link will only update maps. OTA updates add other functionality, admittedly, few that have any relevance to the way we use our systems. The update but last did provide a very useful feature, the one you rightly find frustrating. As you say the system can't cope with activiating a download whilst driving, so basically what you have to do it pull over, select gearbox in to Park or neutral ( it's less complicated if you keep the engine running ) and then press the OK tab onscreen. It's a right faff. The OTA download but last included an update whereby it allowed you to press the OK tab ( or was it 'Download Now', can't remember ) and the system would download i/ update n the background - they way common sense dictates it should. You're now given three tab options. If I can remember, the next time a software update is available I'll post a screen shot of the new three tab options. Tho I can't understand ur situation. If the screen is saying download available then that's a message that should be stored, and as you say should be available at a later date using the pull-down tab at the top of the screen. Only thing I can suggest is the next time it prompts you with a 'Download available' message - select cancel. That might store the message on your system? Worth a try. Not 100% sure the OTA updates have anything to do with Skoda Connect. The fact it's promting you that an update is available would suggest to me everything is in order connection wise. EDIT: Just remebered. That map update portal should work as you have one of the newer systems. The early MIB3 systems had a fault whereby you couldn't update via the USB posts ( it wouldn't recognise the data ). If that happens then it's a dealer visit as they have to re-install the system software. Pretty sure that shouldn't apply to you tho.

My other half went into a shop, leaving me in the car and (due to a good habit) locked the car as he walked away, I haven't a clue about any of this. If I were stuck in the car and the doors didn't open I'd assume the deadlocks were activated so my first thought would be to try the global lock/unlock switch on the dashboard? But when you think about it, deadlocks are there to stop doors being opened even when a window is smashed, so it's a bit counter-intuative to be able to open the doors whe the car has the deadlocks activated? Don't lock people in cars might be your only solution. It sounds a great solution if you have a nagging other half tho Skoda may sell more cars if they advertise this feature.

This forum is full of info on how to update your system. You do not need to pay any fee for OTA software updates, Skoda Conect is something different. You have the newer MIB3 system, that's why there are no SD card slots. search OTA MIB3 update / look at my posts on Kodiaq forum

Folk update systems if they're having issues. A Bolero is a basic system so unless you're having issues then no need to update.

I agree with the frustration of the system, but in their defence, it'd be a bit pointless displaying a "can't update whilst driving message" when you're parked ! I've posted elsewhere that the update but last, implied that it contained software that would allow future updates to be downloaded whilst driving. So when the latest update appeared, I was given three choices rather than the two as posted above - update now, cancel or update later ( at least I think that's what they were ). Anyway, I chose update now, and the update took place whilst I was driving. So all sorted. Maybe someone at Skoda read this thread

+1 And there lies the problem with any part that's subject to wear and tear; how do you prove the car was properly driven? What would I do? I'm assuming the above is a manual transmission? Just to confirm, we're not talking about a DSG are we? 1st thing would be to establish the problem. Has the garage not said what diagnostics they've carried out to establish the need for a gearbox removal? The car should be able to drive away in 2nd gear - has anyone tried that? As the car is at the dealer and isn't drivable then I'm not sure what other options are open to you other than have that dealer look at the issue. But I'd certainly make them aware that I want all faulty parts retained as they'd need to be checked by a 3rd party to make sure they weren't faulty from manufacture. I'd also get quotes from other local indi's on how much it would be to replace the clutch on your car and if substantially cheaper, I'd present them to your main dealer. ( price match if not already covered by warranty? ) I'm defo not one of those above who call dealers 'stealers' ( the ones that do tend not to have new'ish Skodas and therefore have no experience of using dealers - they rely only on prejudice). You'll get good dealers and you'll get bad dealers - same as everything in life, but they're not all the same. I'm certainly not reading your problem like some others have. To be fair to the dealer and Skoda, how can anyone determine the car be repaired under warranty if they don't know what the problem is? 🤪 As my recent experience with brakes proved, the main dealer wasn't much more expensive than the vast majority of the fast-fit centres and was actually cheaper than a few local indi's recommended in the good garage guide. I managed to fix my issue by shopping around but to do I knew what the exact problem was. So that's your first goal. I have to say it doesn't sound like a clutch if the only issue is not getting into 1st. Master cylinder perhaps? If it were a clutch issue then I'd have thought it would have been apparent over a period of time - it normally wouldn't fail just like that. hope that helps.

Couldn't agree more with what you say. We replaced the fronts on out Ateca sooner than that - the car was mainly used around town. To me most tyres are just a tyre but those Turanza's stuck in my mind as 'defo avoid in future' Absolutely. 👍 You say they've only been driven on tarmac but given the state of our roads that's no guarantee they haven't suffered excessive wear. The warranty will only cover manufacturing defects so the chances of all four tyres being faulty manufacture are slim to say the least.

My tuppence worth. 1. If it's a private sale, the owners words are next to useless. If he was misleading you, you'd need to prove it. That said, he seems very open. If I were selling the car I'd just have simply said it had a belt change and leave it at that and nobody would have any reason to question it. What benefit is in telling a potiential buyer that there were strange noises etc? 2. You go to the expense of changing the timing belt. If it was a diesel ( you mention 1.6tdi elsewhere ) then water pump really would have benefitted from being changed at the same time. Was that done? 3. You then service the car at a main dealer - not many owners would chose that option at 93k! Sounds like this owner is being very honest and has looked after the car. You don't mention previous owners. How many owners has the car had? When did the current owner buy the car? What I find strange is the owner forks out on a timing belt, he forks out on a main dealer service, the car has new rear discs and pads so why has he decided to sell the car?

Seems too obvious but Is that not the killer line? Would regularly putting air in your tyres ever since 2002 not suggest leakage? Forget TPMS, what does the air gauge read each time you put air in the tyres?

The physics is way over my head but I'm just wondering if you're over complicating the situation and thought it thru logically? In laymans terms, are you saying that you want to prevent premature battery failure by replacing the battery prematurely? Apologies if I have that wrong.