kodiaqsportline

How long ago was that? People demand more functionality these days - some manufacturers are better than others at implementing it. Try one of todays Land Rovers and see how you get on. 🤣

That alone should have been enough to raise concerns. Completely different manufacturer, but I found something really strange with nearly new cars that Arnold Clark are currently selling and strongly suspect the same is happening. Motorpoint used to be guilty of this when they first started ( not sure if they still are ) but they'd sell cars that were imported via the channel Islands, Isle of Man or even Malta ! It took a keen eye to see the subtle differences in trim / standard options to see something wasn't quite right. They dd admit to it's origins but only when pushed. Who was that? Needs to be named and shamed. Many of these types of firms tell you a history check is an absolute must but the quality of information they provide is about as much use as a fart in a space suit. I'm lead to believe there's a get-out clause in the small print which says they don't guarantee the information ! In otherwords you may as well employ a fortune teller at half the price. 🤣

Shocking misinformation in that statement. A refund ( or rejection ) has nothing whatsoever to do with warranty and everything to do with consumer rights - in the UK at least.

Given those circumstances, my first thought would be is the replacement battery faulty?

I wouldn't sit in the driving seat for 3-4 hrs let alone the rear 🤣 Back on story, I'd never have a dog sit that long either.

I ordered the split divider to accompany the TravelAll dog guard on my Octavia estate. Trouble was that the split divider would only fit on models that didn't have a two-level floor so had to return it. From what I could gather, the specific dog guard for the Kodiaq only really differed in that the anchor point fixings were different so I simply made up new fixings and used the tailor-made Octavia dog guard for the Kodiaq. Depending on the make of dog guard you have, I reckon the same may apply to the custom superb guard. I'd be surprised if it didn't fit. I very rarely have the type of luggage that would topple over so the dog sits in the boot. On the one occasion I did think luggage could move, I simply let the dog sit on one of the rearmost seats and split that off from the folded rear seat next to it with one of the luggage nets that came with the car. However if you already have a divider then I'd be sorely tempted to also adapt that to fit the height of the Kodiaq floor. Completely unrelated to the OP topic, but I'm just back this weekend from a 3hr car journey with 4 passengers. Rather than have three in the back seat, I had a 6ft person in the front seat, a 6ft 2 person in the seat directly behind me, a 5ft 10 person in the seat behind the front passenger and the 5ft 3" passenger in the rearmost seat behind them. The 2/3 rear seat was slid forward and the 5ft 2 person was sat in the very back. I did say she could have lowered the middle seat back to give her more knee room but found she was perfectly comfortable back there as it was. 1.5hr journey each way and she never had a problem. And you can add 43 years to your 11 year old estimation. 🤣 Other than kids (who actually prefer sitting at the very back), it's only the 3rd occasion I've had adults back there but nobody has ever complained - to my surprise, quite the opposite. Seems to be that anyone who's reasonably fit and under 5ft6 doesn't have an issue. I'm 5'10 and as long as the rear seat isn't slid all the way back, could easily sit back there for an hour. Obviously a sunroof doesn't create more space but perhaps it helped create an illusion of there being more space. Both rear seats were raised and there was still enough space to carry all 5 rucksacks behind the seats which is something you can't say for many 7 seaters. Doesn't matter what I throw at it, the Kodiaq always seems to have a solution. I'm not sure there's anything in that size / price range that can touch it. I'm sure a labrador would be happy with it's own seat + it'd be able to easily see out the side window. It even has it's own cupholder. 🤣

As per above - set to home screen. Same if you use Android Auto. If you turn off the ignition when the Android Auto screen is on then it'll be Google maps that's displayed when you switch on again. PS - apologies. From your initial post I thought you meant each time the system switched on it was displaying radio or whatever.

My thoughts... 1: Are you saying the spare key was used to drive the car away or are you saying it's possible the spare key could still be inside the car? 2: If you want in to the car, just to use a glass cutter on the open LH window and the glass will just lift out - bonnet release is on that side anyway. 3: Or as you mention fabrication, rather than break the glass, can't you make up a metal rod type tool with a 'U' on one end, insert thru the window and try to hook the 'U' over the bonnet release and pull ? I actually made up such a tool to secure the dog guard in place - it hooks over the eyelets in the floor. I bet something like that could be used to pull the internal bonnet release without breaking a window. 4: Deadlocks. This is my ( probably flawed ) theory. Those who've mentioned being locked inside their car and unable to open the doors may be overlooking something - their cars have electrical power. If window is open on the OP's car, that should be sufficient to trigger the ultrasonic alarm sensor ( assuming the car has an alarm ). But there's no alarm or indicators flashing which suggests to me the battery is flat. And as deadlocks are powered by the battery... My guess is the doors on the OP's car aren't deadlocked.

Struggling with this one I'm afraid. I have a 2020 Sportline with the same MIB3 Columbus touchscreen as you should have, and it'll display whatever the previous screen was. What screen is being displayed on startup? Is it the same screen each time? I'm wondering if there's some setting / tick box that's been checked that sets a default screen? Dunno. Solutions? You could try reset back to factory default settings. The only other thing that springs to mind is the software bug issue which your car may have. A dealer will be able to say if your car's software is one that needs updated. Perhaps someone else will come up with an easy solution.

The tyre wall on 225/40/19 is already thin so you can imagine what running them under pressure is going to do. If I were to run my all season's under pressure on Craters, I'd be **** scared of damaging the rims! Edit - I of course mean further damaging the rims, as it's almost impossible to avoid

Cross Climates have been available for several years in 225/19/40. They should cost around the £800 mark, fitted.

Forget all about it until Skoda contact you offering an extended warranty - it'll be nowhere near that price. That's more expensive than an all-in package ! If you can do without warranty for a couple of months, Skoda usually reduce the price of their All In service package around Black Friday. From memory I think the offer was £29 a month in 2022.

When I looked at this a few years back, there wasn't any 3rd party scheme that would touch extending the warranty with Skoda. Have Skoda written to you giving you the option yet? Seem to recall it was withing the last 4-6 weeks of the original warranty running out that Skoda wrote with a 'special price' offer. The other thing to consider would be their all-in-1 package where they bundle the same warranty with servicing and MOT. Depending on your requirement, that can work out even better value.

A Fabia Combi is a niche market as it is never mind introducing PHEV to the equation. Given it;s size, your Fabia has masses of space inside but unfortunately a PHEV needs space for the battery. If you don't want an SUV then I struggle to think of a direct replacement. So you probably have a decision to make - do you replace the combi with a similar length car and accept there will be less space inside or go for a bigger car that has similar internal space. Hope that make sense? What about something like a Kia Xceed? Or rather than PHEV, consider an efficient Hybrid like Toyota Corolla if you want to retain the estate format? Although it's in the SUV type sector, I agree with Toot's the comment re: the Renault Captur. In ICE format the space on offer is pretty decent but the Hybrid I test drove was abysmal for our needs. We don't need rear passenger space so the best thing for us turned out to be a Yaris Cross which I have on order. Yes it's another SUV type vehicle but it's small and offers a really well shaped boot given it's length. Again it's not a PHEV but has an efficent Hybrid engine. Not to everyone's taste I'm sure, but like you, I was struggling to find something suitable for our needs.

I'm not 100% sure of latest specs but the wording on options throught the whole VW group can be pretty confusing at times. Are you sure you've read the pricing correctly? My guess is that if heated front seats were std then the likelyhood is they're still standard, it's just that the heated screen will come as a pack. So when they mention heated seats as part of that pack, you're not paying for an item twice, they mean rear seats. If it was front seats in the pack and they were already std on the car then the pricelist usually quotes two prices for that pack or option - one for the car that doesn't already have part of the pack and another for ones that do. Regarding packs - unfortunately that's the path Skoda have now taken. Seat done away with packs and options three years ago, Audi have been offering packs for years. BMW are another company who've gone down the pack route rather than offer individual options. At least Skoda still offer some options, with most other manufacturers you have to pay many thousands more for the next trim level altogether. You might only want a sunroof but the car that offers this comes with leather and a more powerful engine with 4wd. As for adding a heated screen aftermarket, anything is possible but I strongly suspect the cost will be prohibitive.

I have the same engine and the car came with same tyres from new. We managed to get half that mileage out of our front tyres. There were plenty of life in the rears. If you've managed to get 28k out of the front tyres and there's still plenty of life in the rears, personally I'd replace the fronts with the same tyres. If you still have the car in 3yrs time then I'd consider changing all four to All Season. That said I changed all four to all-season but to be honest, the cost hasn't justified any gains so far. I threw away two perfectly good Tuanza's on the rear. PS - I'd never entertain mixing All Season on one axle and Summer's on the other.

You hit the nail on the head, it all comes down to the individuals perception of risk. If we look at this realistically, out of all the VW group ICE cars that require(d) a belt change at 4yr/40k and now 5yr/50k, such a tiny percentage of cars have suffered issues as a result of the belt breaking. ( I've never heard of anyone I know who's owned a VW Group car having issues ). And you can bet your last dollar that many, many cars will not have had the belt changed whether it be for financial or reasons such as skomaz mentions. So the risk factor of something going wrong because the belt wasn't changed has to be very small indeed. What bothers me tho, and I may have mentioned this in the past, is that there people here who agree, the risk factor is very small, yet when you read a post where someone says they're interested in a used car - what do Briskoda members think? the replies are always the same "make sure the cambelt has been changed". So when deciding on whether or not to change a cambelt at 5yr/50k as recommended in the UK, what about people asking themselves this... would they be happy to buy a 6 year old Skoda didn't have it's cambelt changed? I agree with the argument that changing the belt may cause more issues than if it were left alone, but isn't that theory thrown upside down when we advise others "make sure the car has had it's cambelt changed" or " a lack of cambelt change shows how the previous owner has neglected their car so best walk away" etc?

All the mainstream VW Group brands share the same parts bin so current Audi offerings are as good a guide as any. ( that said, II'm sure Skoda offered the 1.5tsi before Audi - at least here in the UK anyway ). And the direction things are going, the current Audi hybrid price list won't be that far off what Skoda will charge for it. 🤣

Just to add that the subject of 'list price' is unbelievably confusing with even the governments own definitions creating grey areas. The best, or rather only way to accuratley know the list rice is ask the dealer for they're the ones who submit the figure ( whether that figure be right or wrong ! ) I've tried many times to find a definative answer on how to determine list but it's near on impossible as you're guaranteed to be given conflicting answers. Most manufacturers don't tend to publlish Delivery charges therefore I've just has a look at my sales receipt which throws something else I hadn't considered into the equation Back in Nov 2020, the delivery charge inc VAT was £590. However, they also mention a charge of £159 - that was for the two services that came part of the PCP incentive. I haven't a clue if that contributes to list price or not. - answers on a postcard. 🤣 Because my car was discounted, all the supplier did was give a Total price - which isn't the RRP or OTR or LIST or whatever - it's just the price we negotiated. All the extras are listed but none of them are costed - each says £0 First year road fund licence was £925 back then. So even with all the information at hand, I still can't work out the frig'n list price required for VED. 🤪 Luckily back then, the OTR was a whisker under £40k so extra VED was never a concern, but I do sympathise with many Kodiaq buyers today.

Not quite sure the relevance of this to the OP's question ( the answer of which I haven't a clue but my logic says it's a co-incidence ). But you haven't said why you don't rely on Auto lamps? I've never found them to be a problem, in fact I think they should be std on every car and then it's up to the driver if they want to override them. Does any one else get really annoyed at drivers who forget to turn on their lights? The problem seems to be that regardless of the switch position, the instrument lighting is always on so they think their front lights are on. By the way, when you say things like in winter the switch lives in the ON position and in Summer it's either on/off - what's the difference between driving at 1pm whenther it be summer or winter? And ithe switch can't live in the position because there's no such thing as an ON position - you either have sidelights or headlights - so you manually have to switch between both - unless you drive with your headlights on during daylight? We can always tell the cars with manual lights because at 11pm at night anytime of the year, we seen many cars driving with either their sidelights or off all together ( including rear lights ! ) Everytime I'm out at night I see at least one car with no lights on. There's not a single car on the road with AUTO lights that happens to - unless of course the system is broken. I think Auto lights are a really good safety feature and if they were to accommodate local laws such as those in Holland as the OP asks, then all the better. Just my opinion.

Totally agree with that. If you'd signed the order outside the dealership premisis then it'd be subject to distance selling regulations therefore cancelation wouldn't be an issue. Dealers come across this scenario everyday, again it's very unlikely they'd hold a gun to your head. If you car is near std, that's to say you didn't opt for unpopular options, then even if they're unable to cancel the order, they may even be financially better off selling at a higher price than the discount they gave you. Probably nothing to worry about but best contact them a.s.a.p. PS Apologies if you're already aware of this but the 'list price' is different from the 'on-the-road' price that's often listed in UK pricelists, A more accurate guide to work out if a car qualifies for that extra 'luxury' tax is to look at the P11D value rather than the OTR price. If the P11D value is over £40k then you're stuffed. PPS. A tip to anyone reading / interested in this - You could be just under the threshold of that extra VED but because you optioned say Traffic Sign Recognition at £105, that may be enough to tip the balance over the £40k mark. So that £105 has potentially cost £390 x 5years = £1960 Yikes! If you're adding any accessories such as mats or roof racks or furry dice etc, it's worthwhile checking if that affects the list price. All these tyoes things can be added after you've bought the car - i.e. you want to keep your list price as low as possible. I know two people who were caught out by something as silly as that.

As per SurreyJohn. VED is outside the control of your dealer or Skoda, there's nothing they can do about it. There will be wording to that effect in the T&C of the order you signed. You need to discuss this with your dealer. My best guess? What's the status of the car - have you had a confirmed build date ( notification from Skoda that order has been accepted - i.e. it's in the build process )? If not then the dealer should be able to cancel but may keep your deposit, but if you're buying another car from them then that scenario is very unlikely. Of course the other question is where did you order the car? Did you do it online / over the phone or did you sign the order at the dealership?

You hit the nail on the head. It's not difficult to understand. If you wish to keep the current alloys then as per my earlier reply, you can change the type of tyre but keep the same size i.e. an all weather tyre, which is softer. How much of a difference that'll make on a 225/40/19 is the question. In my experience the cost didn't justify the ride benefits. At least they're better the few days a year I get snow. Your only other option would be to buy new ( smaller ) alloys and tyres which will improve both comfort and noise levels.

Two other options for you: 1: Try pressing the centre of the button. I have the occasional failure but seems to be when I hit the edge. If I'm then careful to only hit the centre of the button it seems to start first time. 2: These switches are dirt cheap from 3rd party sources and look to be a very easy swap. Just google ' Kodiaq start/stop button'. Obviously depends where your dealer is but it may be actually cheaper to replace the button from Ebay than it'll cost in fuel traveling to/from the dealer!

I wouldn't get too relaxed - bad people will just hit you over the head with a brick and take your keys. Assuming of course they want to take the car away as stripping it onsite seems to be the new normal. Car stripping in public car park.