kodiaqsportline

Can't speak for other years but that's all covered in the 2019 owners manual: pages 22 - Keyless locking ( KESSY ) and 24 - Doors Not aware of any recent central locking issues. I may be wrong but I was under the impression any problem related to cars pre:2020 i.e. the time where you could accidentally lock your keys inside the car. I think it was around early 2020 Skoda upgraded the system so that it was no longer possible to do so. I think they may have updated KESSY at the same time so that after a few minutes of the key not moving, the key would enter sleep mode - i.e. those pad people with electronics could no longer access the signal.

I guess using it simply as a spare to drive to the tyre centre ( and driving accordingly i.e. not over 50mph ) would be no different than using a mini-spare, but apart from that, absolutely not. Are your Bridgestones summer or all weather tyres? If they're summer then your compounding the problem as you should never mix All-Season with Summer even on different axles. Personally I'd forget all about the Bridgestones and either buy a proper mini-spare or another Michelin XC.

If it helps any, I checked sizes and couldn't find any alternative size that would accommodate a thicker tyre wall on the same 19" rims. The only options left were different size tyres ( and alloys ) or just change the tyre type/brand using the same size. I'd done the latter on an Octavia, kept the same size but fitted Goodyear vector All Season tyres and it made a HUGE difference with respect to noise so did the same with the Karoq - swapped out the OEM tyres for Michelin Cross Climates. Yes they've reduced the noise a bit but not to anything like the same extent as the difference with the Octavia. I'm disappointed to be honest. Given the option again, I'd have still changed to All Seasons but used a cheaper brand. When I looked, the Maxxis All season tyres were almost half the price of the Michelins. In retrospect I should have bought the Maxxis. That was exactly my thinking too and it certainly used to be the case but I've been keeping an eye on prices since changing them on the Karoq because I'd like to do the same with our Kodiaq. Unfortunately for whatever reason that theory hasn't been true over the past 6months as everyone is asking crazy prices for All Season tyres at the moment. Stocks seems limited too. I'm kicking myself for not taking up an offer by ATS last November. It'd cost me £200 more to buy the same set of tyres - I think Camskill is the cheapest source right now, for the size I'm looking at. I'm at a complete loss to explain this.

Toot, I think you need to calm down.

I appear to wind him up without trying ! So much anger... why? I have much better things to do than play post ping-pong.

I try and make a valid point and... You're not allowing anyone to make a valid point without resorting to baiting people with comments like that. As I said in a previous post, I have no desire to enter the multiple thousand posts club so please try sticking to the subject. You said OEM tyres are useless for lots of the UK for much of the year which is factually incorrect - it's fake news. Within two posts you're already back-peddling - 300 and odd days a year is not 'much' of the year, rather it's only a small fraction of the year. 9 million people live in central london but only 3 men and a dog live in our neck of the woods. You have to look at this from the majority point of view. OEM tyres are perfectly fit for purpose for Mr Joe Average. If however Mr Joe Average wishes to change that purpose, then you can't blame the tyre, or the manufacturer.

I'm more confused than Phutters ! If millions of people are driving on tyres without issue then obviously they're not useless.

You need the inside windows misted up - switch on heated screen and it should clear within a minute, certainly much, much faster than side windows. Entering the car after our running session on a cool morning/night is a guaranteed recipe for instant steamy windows. Of course, you could try exercising inside the car

Are you talking about the boot mat or the polystyrene box that holds the compressor and gunk? If it's the latter then yes, they just pop up. You can use wide blade screwdriver or Y-shaped door trim removal tool. The carpet it'self isn't fixed - not on our car anyway.

What are the chances of Skoda confusing everyone with DSG and cambelt service intervals on their new EV range? 🤣

It's not an OTA update. Not sure if it's the same update Vroom mentions in threads but it was a full day's job with the dealer. ( I ended up leaving the car overnight as the first attempt errored half way thru ). The dealer said they it would have been easier for them if Skoda had just issued a recall but they're only updating the software as and when the system experiences problems. It's a well known issue withing the Skoda empire so your local dealer should know about it. Don't quote me on this but I think it only applies on the mild facelift 2020/2021 cars with the MIB3 system. My understanding is that OTA only applies incremental updates - i.e. adds a patch to existing software. But It's the exisiting software that's the problem so needs wipped and re-installed.

My tuppenceworth is you're playing with fire. The 'luxury tax' applies to the list price when the car is registered. Given your options are so close to list and lead times unpredictable, I'd have thought it's almost a certainty you'd have to pay the extra VED on such a spec. What's important to one person isn't to another, but at £895 I'd question if I needed an electric tailgate but £755 for a HUD? Shock horror! For me, the car would have to be well under the upper tax threashold for me to consider adding such items. If prices did rise even by a minimal amount, I'd be on the point of suicide realising a £195 metal tray under the engine was the cause of £390 extra VED per year. All depends on how you finance the car but things you can see like a sunroof, colour etc might claw back a few quid back or at least provide some wow appeal in resale, but stuff like HUD and Rough Road packages etc won't get you a penny. Do you really need matrix over the standard LED headlights? There's also an argument that says chosing that as an option may even put people off the car because if those get damaged, which being on the front of the car is high risk, it's a major cost to replace. edit: what I mean by that is if it's std equipment, with Octavia being such a popular car then chances are you'll easily find a replacement part for sale somewhere. With it being an expensive optional extra, chances are you'll have to pay near full price. Being so close to the £40k threshold, If it were me, I'd be re-visiting the options list.

Good. Next time you're booking your car at dealership for servicing, mention this problem, the resolution, and ask if your car has the lastest software fix that Skoda have released for these systems. There's no harm in them checking.

My tuppence worth: When you are in an accident and it's defo the other party to blame, then you should not be at any loss. If you want to take other things in to consideration such as stress / injury etc then that's where those no win no fee type of companies come in to their own. But be under no illusion, they'll only get involved if there's a guaranteed profit in it for themselves. You ask is the insurance industry legal robbery? It could be if you let it. I think where people go wrong is understanding how the system works. The market value of your car ( i.e. selling it ) is very different from the buying price. If you've caused the accident or rather, if it's a 'fault claim' then you receive what the car is worth, i.e. the market value. If you're not at fault, then the 3rd party should be responsible for adding the seller's profit / overheads to get you back to the position you were in before the accident. It's not YOUR insurer who does that, it's the 3rd party insurer. If you have legal cover, they 'should' be doing that on your behalf. I never take legal cover because thru experience, I find it's their own interests in mind rather than yours, and I've ended up doing the chasing. When my car was wriiten off some years ago ( no fault claim ) and the insurer gave me the market valuation, I simply asked them to find me a car at that price. Easy peasy... no need for ombusman or anything like that, just get them to find a car for you at that price. They ended up asking me to submit several prices and I was given the average. They're claiming that back from the other party so unless it's a ludicrous figure, it's not a problem for them. Regarding hire cars and any additional costs you incur thru no fault of your own, then if you do not have legal cover thru your own insurer, claim that direct from the 3rd party insurer. There's no getting over the inconvenience of it all when something like this happens, but obtaining the right money for your loss and compensation is usually straight forward. You just have to be reasonable and show a willingness to be flexible about it.

My only guess would be the software, to use a technical term, has it's knickers in a twist. I'd first try to reset the system. Switch ignition to the on position, then hold the power button on the infotainment for 10-15secs until it reboots. Hopefully that'll fix it otherwise it's probably a trip to the dealer. Some of these MIB3 systems have a few 'hitches'. When I experienced them a hard reset wouldn't work. Local dealer said there was a software upgrade they could perform. My system was upgraded and I haven't had any issues since. So that may be your 2nd option. Hope one of those works.

Would have thought a dodgy connection lead more likely. Or the lead is incompatible with the socket. OP - what happens with any other USB device you connect to the socket ( using a different cable ).

Just to add my tuppence worth... 1st thing to establish - is the car still covered by warranty? It's bloody hard work to find out any information these days, but the reason I ask is you say this dislodged rubber seat wasn't apparent at the time of the MOT, we therefore assume it happened afterwards. Now if the seal developed a problem when the car was outside it's std 3yr warranty and the rust resulted from that broken seal, then my understanding would be it's not covered under the corrosion warranty. One crucial piece of info I can't see from above is has the car always been serviced / maintained by a main Skoda agent. If it has then I'm not sure why they're bothering to suggest asking for proof of inspection. If however the car has been outside the Skoda empire for servicing then you'd absolutely have to have proof for the manufacturer to pay for the repair. I haven't a clue about the 3yr / 2yr inspection dates. What I can say is that there will be some wording in the warranty which refers to the car having to be serviced and maintained according to the manufacturers recommendations ( or words to that effect ). I'm looking at my last service sheet right now and under the 'Vehicle exterior' section, there is a checkbox for: Interior and exterior body: inspecting for corrosion with doors and flaps open Obviously can't comment on other dealers but my dealer has ticked the above box. ( would love to be a fly on the wall when they carry out this inspection becuse I doubt it'll be no more than a glance. But that's not the point, the point is they've confirmed the car has been checked ). But more an expert than me 🤣 I'd be tempted to lift the whole seal and see if there's any sign of rust elsewhere. If it's only where the seal has come away then the probability is it's a result of a broken seal. As I said above, my concern would be was that seal issue a result of a manufacturing defect? OP - you may have to rely on goodwill. If the car has only ever been serviced and maintained by Skoda then personally I'd be hammering home this point to the dealer as well as Skoda - you may end up with goodwill even if out of warranty. Good luck.

Agree with JR. Unfortunately in my experience, this seems to affect all main VW brands more than other cars I've owned. The discs on brand new cars having just been delivered off the transporter before they've had their centre caps fitted? it's not a good omen. One tip to prelong length if you don't use the car often like me and are gentle on brakes it to occasionally stamp on the brakes a few times at the start of a journey. I've had the usual warnings about discs and pads when the cars are serviced but so far have been lucky that I've never needed to replace them. Friends and family haven't been as lucky. If I had to replace them, I'd be looking to replacing them with some quality name brand replacements - can't see the point of replacing them with OEM units from VW again.

Food for thought for anyone who's confused about buying a car. But as always, even the accountant makes no mention of the elephant in the room because she too isn't aware how PCP works. My guess is she's looked at the advertising or been told that's how it works. Not only do you have the option of buying the car outright at the end of the contract, you also can buy it outright at anytime during the contact. So, in the days following you signing the contact, it's the price of the car less the PCP contribution + any freebies such as servcing thrown in and you won't pay a penny in interest. It renders the option of buying a car outright from the dealer more or less obsolete.

Well it's been a week and no reply to the above. The questions were of course rhetorical because anyone who has settled a PCP agreement knows that's just not how it works. This same issue has come up time and time again so lets see if we can make it clearer for those wanting to know about 'early settlement'. What is a PCP? A PCP is just a financial product. Your not buying a car, it's more like renting or leasing a car. Who is it aimed at? Predominantly it's designed for someone who can't afford to buy a new car. We'll ignore those who can afford a car but never want to own it as the subject of 'settlement' never concerns them. How does a PCP work? Think of it as only paying the depreciation on a car. Most of us will have heard of the three options the finance company give us at the end of the agreed term: 1: You return their car and walk away. 2: If the car has equity, that's to say, if the car is worth more than the pre-agreed value ( Guaranteed future value or GFV ) which was determined at the start of the lease, then you can use that equity as a deposit on a PCP for a brand new car. 3: You can own the car yourself by buying it from the finance company. Give them the GFV and the car is yours. All three of the above options are 'settlements', in other words they're fulfilling the agreement. That's what you're told when taking out a PCP and that's how PCP's are advertised, but it's not the full story. What Option 3: actually says is you can buy the car at anytime during the agreement. That's what 'early settlement' refers to. What's the difference between 'settling' and 'canceling' a PCP? Settling a PCP is only done by someone who can afford to own the car. ( there are exceptions but that complicates matters ). The only time I can think of anyone wanting to cancel a PCP is when, for whatever reason, they can no longer afford to pay back the loan. In other words, they don't want the car. What they're in fact doing is breaking or terminating the PCP agreement. Now if you cancel / terminate the PCP then that's when there will be penalties to pay. It may take the form of having to pay back any incentives that were originally provided by the PCP company. Put it this way, I have NEVER came across anyone who has cancelled a PCP. I don't personally know of anyone who's done this and in all the posrts I've read on Briskoda and elsewhere, I haven't come across anyone who's tried to cancel a PCP. So I'm not quite sure why people talk about having to pay penalties and an extra months payment if you want to settle a PCP? You're not breaking any agreement rather you're fulfilling it. All you're doing is exercising option 3: above - you're buying the car from the finance company. All this talk about having to pay back their incentives which may have taken the form of a depost contribution or free servicing or whatever else - where has that come from? I suspect it's armchair experts doing what they do best. Examples: Say a car costs £30,000 and the finance company have offered you £2000 deposit contribution if you take out their PCP. The dealer will work out a whole number of figures with you - interest rates, mileages, the GFV, monthly payments etc. Let's assume you've agree to pay back £400 a month over 3years. If you want to own the car at antime before the agreement reaches maturtiy, all you're interested in is the cost of the car, the deposit and the monthly payments. So if the car cost £30,000 and the garage has asked you for a £500 deposit to secure it, then within the days of signing the PCP the car will cost: £30,000 less deposits ( £500 + £2000 ) = £27500. If you request a settlement figure after 1 day, hand over £27500 to the finance company and the car is yours. ( + there will be a nominal admin fee which costs peanuts ) It's this that makes complete nonsence of anyone who talks about 14day 'cooling off' periods... think about it... If you said no I don't want to go ahead with the PCP, then the car will cost you £30,000 less £500 deposit - £29500 If you wanted to settle after you've made the first payment ( i.e. wait at least a month after taking delivery of the car ), the car will cost: £30,000 less the deposit ( 2000 + 500 ) less your 1st payment ( 400 ) So that'll be £27100 Can you see what I'm saying? It would be crazy to cancel a PCP within 14days if you wanted to own the car. I'd love to know where that rumour started. People who say such things obviously haven't thought it thru. Where I believe people get so mixed up is they're confusing PCP to other financial products like HP or bank loans. I'm no longer familiar with how those types of loans work today, but it was certainly the case in the past that if you wanted to 'settle' those products early, then they'd incur a heavy penalties. PCP does not work like that. You're not altering the agreement in anyway by settling early. So to summerise: For people who're traditionally cash buyers i.e. want to own the car outright, then it's often if not always the case that it's cheaper to do so by taking out a PCP and then settling it. As a rule of thumb people often wait a few weeks to let all the paperwork go thru before requesting the settlement figure but it's not necessary. With VW Financial Services ( the finance company Skoda use ) there is no need to actually phone the finance company for a settlement as it's all done online. What I do is wait until such times as I can log in to their system ( usually a few days ) then request a settlement figure. You then have something like 4wks from the date of the request to pay VWFS and you can have the car without paying a penny in interest. As I say, all they ask for is around £30 as an admin fee. Sorry for the long post but hope that makes the term 'early settlement' when discussing PCP a little clearer to those who're interested.

I'm looking at all the respondants to this thread by the OP. I'm looking at the number of posts all of you have made. There's only one person who's actually tried to help the OP. ( Toot ). All those with many thousands of postings have completely ignored the OP's original question, rather you want to take over the topic in a whole new direction. My point is that's why you people have many thousands of posts to your names. It's not about trying to help people, it's always about yourselves. I think that is so disrespectful to the OP it's untrue. Now I'm going to stop posting on this thread becasue like you, I too will be guilty of posting a lot of pi5h about nothing. PS - Another observation - all those who post many thousands upon thousands of postings apprear to post on every topic under the sun... yet the majority of you seems to have zero experience of the models involved, or experience of buying new cars from the dealer, or even experience of the dealers. Yet that doesn't seem to prevent you from being an expert on the subject. Sorry if the truth hurts.

Show me someone in sales who doesn't BS. 🤣 I received a mailshot from my local dealer on 10/3/23 which said Order New Car by March 31st to beat the April price increase. I thought Skoda raised prices on 4th April so it'd be very unusual for them to rise again so soon. If that had been said to me, my response would be "that means the price of my used car will increase too so makes no difference". Sales folk, you've got to love them.

Unfortunately that's commonplace these days amongst many if not all manufacturers due to the 'on time' build process - they no longer keep large stocks of uncommon parts. I'm taking a pure guess here that Skoda will be compelled to use genuine Skoda parts where as if the car had gone to a repair centre, the part they use could be manufactured by a 3rd party. Back in the 90's I had a Vauxhall Cavalier as a company car which were common as muck but that too required a 3mth wait on some steering system when the dealership had to rebuild it. The irony is we could source perfect good replacement parts at a breakers yards ourselves and have it delivered within days. prime it, paint it, fix it and you'd never know the difference. In fact it's often a much less labour intensive fix as you don't have to strip every single part off the damaged item and transfer it to the new tailgate. It's just one of those unfortunate frustrating things.

WTF ! Was trying to help, couldn't, and was simply asking a question. I may not have repsponded but that in my book would be ignorant. OP didn't see that as an issue, why have you? The headline you refer to says ANY UK SALES STAFF? I can read that in 3 different ways hence why I replied. If you are not at least willing to try and help someone, then if I may say so, your posting is a tad ironic. ( as are those who gave it a thumbs up because they never helped either ). It's no wonder you have 18.9K postings to your name if trolling is a pastime.

That explains it thanks.