kodiaqsportline

You may find the larger tyres are more susceptable to changes in pressure than smaller wheels. Occasionally the warning will trigger on my car when the temps dip, but it also went a tad bonkers last summer when I travelled south down the M6 to a sweltering Cheshire.

Could well be. My previous car had ACC and I was always impressed the way it'd wake up when anything in front moved ( even a pedestrian crossing in front would start the engine ). But our both our non-ACC cars do not auto start. I don't have an issue with stop/start, never give it a 2nd thought. Touch the accelerator - the engine springs to life and the car moves. Car drives the same as any other auto I've driven.

karoq online manual - fuses

Obviously need to explore all options but my experience mirrors that of the advice from Chrisknottins above. I changed my habit of always having the info infront of me and called a broker re: multi-car as I was unsure how it worked. The price worked out cheaper if I insured both cars together so went ahead and was perfectly happy until it came to renewal time. What wasn't made clear to me was they'd quoted the price for the 2nd car pro-rata so that both cars renewal dates would be as one. So when the renewal came thru... 😲 My mistake for not checking the documentation properly, I made the classic mistake of assuming both cars were being covered for 12mth each when I took out the policy. I lost around £100 by taking out that mutli-car policy as opposed to insuring the cars seperately. ( which is hard to swallow when you're a Scotsman ! ) It's just one of the reasons I prefer to use online brokers rather than via telephone - I can view everything online and know exactly what I'm being sold.

They don't scrape on the Arran ferry 🤣 When I saw the price dealers wanted to fit them I simply bought them online and fitted them myself. Even with posting, the Irish dealer used to sell the cheapest mud flaps for the UK but that all changed post Brexit. Simple DIY job to fit. Front wheels don;t need to come off - just undo the current screws and replace them with slightly larger ones in the mud flap pack. If you have a 90 degree allen tool it's the same with the rears otherwise you just need to remove wheel for easy access. With a power screwdriver, it took me about 15mins to fit all four.

I agree with you. There are signs of Skoda loosing it's mojo. I've decided to change our Karoq ( Edition ) and the new sales strategy is one of the reasons I've gone away from Skoda ( and VW group ). When I purchased the Kodiaq I dismissed the USB because it had to be bought in conjucntion with a camera that detected speed signs which took the then £95 cost to around £225. I bought a Nextbase installation kit for £15 and it takes 15mins to install the camera. Not up to speed on current models but I think it only costs £55 now to option USB on Kodiaq. Or £950 on the Karoq. 🤣 The way I see it, the problem with packs etc isn't the purchase price but the selling price, because adds little financial value. They may add an 'attaction' value to a used car but in the case of that £950 Travel Assist pack, it adds £0. The GFV is exactly the same with or without it.

Your English is better than mine and I'm Scottish. 🤣

Eco is only a name. It's how you drive the car that determines the emissions and mpg etc. You may find that if you have a fully loaded car or even if you're starting going up a hill, if you drive in the same manner, normal or even sport may produces better results as the engine is less likely to labour than if the mapping was in ECO mode. Personally I think it sounds daft but this is what I read is the reasoning behind it. Your car's emissions and fuel consumption are based on WLTP results which were determined under 'normal' mode. For some completely unknown reason, they decided to pass a rule that that each time you start your car, it has to be in the same mode as the WLTP results were taken. In VW's case that was Normal mode, or say in BMW's case, Comfort mode. Same rules apply to every manufacturer, all new cars registered in the UK after late 2019 ( or could have been very early 2020 ) had to start in it's default WLTP mode. Bonkers or what? Our Karoq registered Nov 2019 still retains it's previous mode. Ever seen the film 12 Angry Men? I reckon that's how the decision was arrived at. I can just see some EU committee sitting around a table when a Green Party member holds up their hand and says "I've got an idea!" Rather than debate it, because they want home early the chairman said yeh, whatever. I've yet to read of anyone who's tried to justify the ruling but yeh, it's one of these things that every new car sold in the EU has to adhere to. ( Couldn't say what happens elsewhere in the world ).

Can't believe anyone took time to write all of that. After reading the title, I was expecting how the dealer screwed things up. The only person that made an error here is YOU! What are you expecting from any service report? I really feel for dealers. If it's not someone coming on to this forum complaining they've not been told about 3yr 4x4 oil change, then it's someone complaining the dealer didn't clean the filter. Now it's someone complaining they WERE informed about that 3yr oil change ! OMG. That dealer didn't do a thing wrong. They did exactly what any dealer should do, regardless of who the manufacturer is. Of course they're looking for more money. You obviously have no business brain if you think otherwise. Begs the question - have you ever owned a car before and had it serviced at a main dealer? Because everyone of them is like that. Independents too. Christ, you can't even go in to McDonalds without them asking would you like a bigger one. And then someone else comes along and comments " Don't get me started about main dealer servcing". Please tell us what this Stirling dealer did wrong? You're even complaining about the video they sent ! If you don't want a video then tell them not to send a video. when you drop it off. Why do people take such pleasure from making life complicated? EDIT: just thinking about people who love to moan. If your car was serviced at Stirling then when not check your service report and tell everone which grade of engine oil they used to service your car. If like me, you'll find it's the correct grade. Of course nobody mentions this, what happens is the usual culprits wait on someone posting about some dealer using the wrong grade of oil, then the Briskoda vultures happily tell the whole world that every main dealer does the same. It'd be refreshing for once to hear from someone who's happy.

@Skomaz - you may have to change her name from SWMBO to SWML ( must listen ) because if she still wants a new car then unless you drive something produced by a manufacturer who builds less than 1000 units per year, auto will be the only choice after 2030. Current predictionis are that Hybrids will still be available in the UK until 2035 but they'll need to ravel a substantial distance in zero emission mode - i.e. via battery hence auto only. I very much doubt manuals will be manufactured again. If they do make a re-appearance it'll be to use up current stocks.

What about it? This is what Varoom wrote: "now Skoda UK, Skoda Czech can recommend you do it at XX Km or Y Years, but that's to cover their ass basically." So if for whatever reason a belt goes at 6yr / 24,000 miles, the unfortunate owner's claim is going to be what exactly? "Yes I know Skoda UK recommended I should have changed it at 5yr but there's this bloke on a forum who I've never met said it's 210,000km ?" That's absolutely no disrepect whatsoever to Varoom but you have to go with what your supplier says. I don't give a xxx what the service interval is in Australia or wherever else because the car I bought was supplied by Skoda UK and Skoda UK says xyz. I'm not concenrend how long a belt has been deemed to last near Ayres Rock, it's how long it lasts near the Bass Rock I'm bothered about. 🤣 People believe what they want to believe and see what they want to see and never let basic common sense get in the way of it. There's no point in debating with a brick wall, if Skoda UK say it's 5yr / 50,000 miles ( whichever comes first ) then if you own a UK Skoda, that's what it is and there's nothing you can do about it. I can't understand how people can make an issue out of it. But as @Root said previously, it's only recommended - nobody is forcing a gun to your head to have the belt changed.

Did anyone specifically tell you there's no time or mileage limit or is that just your own interpretation of 'lifetime belt' ? When it comes to devices such as timing belts, waiting until wear starts to occur before changing it is akin to playing Russian Roulette. Please remember it's not just the belt that's changed but tentioners etc as well. Even if a belt were made of some indestructable material - it still needs changing ! Every engine will have a time and/or mileage restriction for when the belt needs changing. Ignore that manufacturer at your peril.

I'm just loving this sidelights are better because they're 50% brighter. It's style over substance in my book. 1. many older cars don't have DRL's - is that a problem? 2. Sidelights are perfectly visable, if not get your eyes tested. but best of all 3. I wonder how many people say that 50% is better also have argued about brake lights ( when auto hold is engaged )' blinds them. There are many cars where oncoming DRL's momentarily blind me. The size of some DRLs is ridiculous. As I say, style over substance. I'd also argue that in some cars, the design of DRL's is such that it's very difficult to see when a car is indicating simply because of their intensity. It's only quite recently they've recognised this and one DRLs dims or switches off completely when the indicator functions. Back in the older days before I had Volvo's I used to drive with my side lights on which for some obscure reason used to upset some people... they argued it binded them, armchair experts said it drained the battery and caused less MPG ( yes really... that's what they said ! ) Oh how times and opinions have changed. 🤣

The first car I owned which had aircon was a Honda in 1995. Every car since has had aircon ( and there's been many ) and I've never had an aircon service done on any of them. Not sure if you're aware of recommended brake fluid: 1. It really should be tested to see if it needs changed and 2. some people change it regardless because it makes them feel safe, but if your only reason is for service history - according to the maintenance schedule the 1st brake service isn't due until year 3.

The world has gone completely mad. My idea of calibration is to park the car in front of another, centre the lines according to the car behind, and hey presto. £100 my ar5e. Reading back this thread, I'm still none the wiser why it needs to be calibrated for an extended warranty to apply. @silver1011 - having had 5 months to think about it... 🤣 There's something weird going on here. If I was told this when taking out an all-in-1 plan, my question to skoda would be this:- How come the camera needs calibrated for the warranty to apply using the all-in-1 plan but doesn't need calibrated if just taking out the exact same extended warranty on it's own? ( Skoda don't check your car if you're just taking out their extended warranty ) We all know what the reply will be... " Computer says no". 🤣 Doesn't that prove beyond doubt the 'calibration' excuse is just money making exercise?

The traditional term 'major service' no longer applies, so the answer to your question really depends on what fixed price service plan you're refering to - the one you buy with a new car ( first two services ) or the plan you take out anytime after 1st year. If it's the latter then 'year 3' in the table posted above is the traditional 'major' service. It's the 'extended scope' part that equates to a major service. An extended scope consists of https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/extended-scope If you're an old timer like me, I defined a major service every 2nd year ( when pollen filter was also changed ) but that's no longer the case. If you're on fixed intervals then the first major service is carried out year three or 30,000 miles ( whichever comes first ) and then every two years or 20,000 miles ( wcf ) thereafter. Hope that helps.

Same as any mainstream VW group seat I've tried. ( never sat in a Bentley, that might be different though I doubt it ). One benefit of VW electric lumbar is it can move vertical as well as horizontal so you can tailor the support depending on the height of the driver, that's why given the choice I'd always chose electric seats. But all massage does is move that lumbar thru the two planes to give some effect of.... well I'm not quite sure what it's supposed to represent but it's certainly not like any back massage I've had. Of course as a result of the lumbar movement, the reality is you've just lost the lumbar where you need it most and as a result, I found the seat more uncomfortable when the massage function was on than when it was off ! 'Gimmick' sums it up perfectly but we're all different and I'm sure someone will like it. It's amazing how £775 can twist your mind. I suppose they have to justify it somehow. 🤣

As others have said, options add no monetary value but will empty your wallet. If the question is 'am I wasting my money" then my advice is only chose what you really need. Regarding wheels - if you're talking about going down rough roads and need clearance then you'd be mad to choose 20" wheels. The larger the wheel the lower the tyre profile - i.e. you want thick tyres not thin ones. 19" absolute maximum, probably better with 18". That £775 only gets you massage function over the std seats. Complete waste of money IMO, more so in your case because if you want massaged, just drive down one of those single track bumpy roads. Or go for the 20" wheels. 🤣 Out of the options you mention I only chose two - family pack ( only because I wanted rear sun blinds and it was cheaper to order the family pack than sun blinds on their own ) and park assist, simply because I had it on my last car and found it so stress free in use. ( I only ever use it for parallel parking ). There are many occasions where I'd never dream of trying to park the Kodiaq as the space looked too small, yet Park Assist says, yep, no problem. I have no issues parking a car on my own, more so a large estate, but there's simply no way I'd be able to parallel park the Kodiaq in such a tight space first time, every time without fail. My car is now 27 months old and it's never once hit a kerb.

What will you be buying and what's the T&C of their service plan? You'll find it's the same whatever car you chose. I took out an extended warranty but after a few months sold my car. I contacted the warranty helpline and I was refunded pro-rata which is exactly what I'd expect to happen. Why would I have expected to receive everything back? Sorry but what were your expectations - that you could pay for your service in installmants interest free? I'm more surprised someone thought that'd be the case. If you decide to pull out of a contract then you're the one set to loose out. Think yourself lucky you weren't also charged a termination ( admin ) fee for doing so. As for the 0870 number... The price of these calls vary depending on who your phone provider is. If YOU have chosen a provider who charges high prices for these type of calls what has that to do with Skoda? Will you be complaining to your phone provider and telling them that you'll never be taking out another one of their contracts? P.S. A question was asked does warranty apply to new owner? There was no warranty - the OP cancelled it and as it hadn't been fully paid for, the new owner would have to shell out more money. Hardly a selling point? In any case that would only apply to a private sale because if the car was sold to a dealer / the trade, a warranty is the last thing they want. What they want to do is sell the car and offer their own warranty so that they can make extra money on the deal. An extended warranty would have added hee-haw value to the OPs car.

There's nothing worse than sticky grease 🤣

never had the problem you describe but if you have the correct tool ( or somthing like it ), it's dead easy to remove the handle. VW door handle removal I used that video as a guide to remove mine. Most VW group cars are similar in design. Suppose you could remove it and check there's nothing obvious causing friction. Lightly greasing the black plastic runner parts of the handle won't do any harm either. Good luck. Edit - just remembered, your car may have KESSY. If it does then removal is exactly the same, just it will have a wire harness with a connecting block that you need to release.

For what it's worth Ballast, I'm with you. Had ACC on my previous car, in theory I thought it'd be a good idea but in practice I hated it. The example above talks about a car pulling in front of you and accelerating away. But what if it doesn't accelerate away? That's just one of the issues I had, that in heavy traffic, people will pull in to the gap in front and I was slowing down. I prefer to set my own distance between me and the car in front. My biggest bugbear though was overtaking on busy roads where on occasion you're unaware of your car slowing down when the ACC radar kicks in. I like an easy life on the motorway and I just found ACC frustrating that it wan't doing what I wanted the car to do. If my cruise is set at 70mph I know I'm always going to be travelling at 70mph thus can make better judgement when pulling out in to traffic to overtake. I specifically didn't chose the ACC option on the replacement car and I haven't missed it one bit. Our other car has normal cruise but it's replacement will have ACC as std. I'm just glad I'm not the main driver 😀

A Kodiaq is no more or less reliable than other car therefore I'd advise do what you normally do when buying from other manufacturer. Can't comment about other countries but here in the UK, when your standard warranty is about to expire, Skoda UK will offer to extend that warranty. I looked in to it and effectively, their extended warranty was no different from the original manufacturer warranty, apart from being cheaper that is. So that's what I did, I took out an extended warranty after 3yr ( 3yr is standard manufacturers warranty in UK ). You could ask if that applies in your country too - it'd give you time to decide if you're going to mod your car or not. But as Root said, if you're going to alter the engine from it's default state then any related mechanical parts of the warranty will be null and void, so why take out an extended warranty? I've only ever owned two VW group models where the std warranty has expired. I extended the warranty on the Skoda but never had the need to make a claim. I didn't extend the warranty on the VW but it developed a known problem a few months after the warranty expired. Despite having no warranty, VW replaced the faulty part ( the cost would have been nearly £2000 ) as a goodwill gesture. So even if there was a common problem and you were out of warranty, there's still a chance the manufacturer would rectify it. Hope that helps.

US$3500 is around £2900 For a 3yr factory warranty ! Std warranty in the EU is 2yr with, for example, France, charging EU1290 ( £1143 ) for a 3yr ( 150,000km ) extention. You say you've already purchased the car but I was under the impression that to obtain a factory warranty, that had to be arranged before the car was delivered. Are you quite sure it's a factory warranty your dealer is selling you?

Inspection: All I can say is they didn't inspect my old car when I extended the warranty. I was under the impression an inspection was only mentioned for the All In One plan? Again the All In One Plan can only be taken out when the current warranty has expired. If you're just buying a warranty, Skoda were keen to take my money before the std warranty had expired. Are you sure you're not being sold the All In One plan rather than just extending the warranty?