SkOmk4

Left and right headlights on mine... (ignore the dirt on the car - it was a really ****ty weather) It's the first car (in many I've driven on bad/rainy weather) that has this kind of condensation inside. Was condensation the only reason for replacement? Because that would be a very interesting precedent! However, I'm afraid the humidity that gets inside, doesn't get there via some mechanical defects (such as cracks or faulty seals), but through the ventilation holes at the back of the headlights. If that is indeed the case, I imagine the replacement is not helping, unless the design of the headlight is changed.

TBH, I don't know how to answer to that... I can only hope you didn't get the point I was making.

Agreed, so why do I have a limited warranty on my DSG? Oh, in case you missed the info, mine is a DGS also - it's mentioned in the signature. Is Skoda assuming that UK DSG drivers are better skilled than Romanian ones? (just kidding on a sad fact...)

So if I correctly understand those terms, the DSG clutch (pressure plate and center disks) is covered for the full warranty offered with the car, both years and mileage??? 😲 As I mentioned, mine is covered for maximum 1 year or 30.000 km - whatever limit is first reached... 3rd world countries - always get less advantages compared to civilized ones...

👍 Not sure about that error though... maybe it's trying to retrieve older settings that are not available. You've also had a SW version change - that might also be a cause (you mentioned the system was offline continuously since before the upgrade). Did you try to configure users? You can easily do that following the step-by-step guide in the phone App. You'll need both keys with you to register as Primary User. If the "settings could not be loaded" error persists, it is probably worth trying a Factory Reset - that way you'll start with a clean slate.

I see. If the dealer already worked on updating from 1806 to 1896, I'm assuming they already discovered the Online Services issues, so probably the fuse 19 trick will not work. But you might as well try it, since there's nothing to be affected by it, and it's also quite easy to do.

No, certainly unplugging and plugging such a fuse will not void any warranty. It was discussed here on different topics that removing fuse #19 for minutes helped resetting the online services of the car. After the registration on the App on your phone - are you able to see the car in the App? If yes, does it say it is Activated or Not? Did you manage to register as Primary User in the car? Or the malfunctioning of the Online Services of the car didn't allow you to follow all those steps?

I was really shocked to see how short the warranty for the clutch is for the mk4. My Warranty Certificate says "1 year, no more than 30.000 km" for the clutch - which I find ridiculous... Imagine someone has a clutch issue after more than 1 year, but after only 1.000 km (not too likely, but possible) What's the clutch warranty for a TSI VRS?

Nothing too fancy, just check my signature - both owned from new... plus about a dozen rental cars, various brands, from small to compact cars. - tire noise is now sorted: it's the factory Goodyear set that is too noisy, my winter set sounds great&quiet (I wrote on the other topic); - brake pedal noise on release - there are a few others mentioning it on another topic here;

Sure, it's not worrying me at all, but I'm slightly bothered by the noise. It's simple physics - smart engineers would have found simple solutions, it's not really reinventing the wheel. It seems my expectations were too high for this car... factory tire noise, brake pedal noise, fuel tank noise - all less obvious on my previous cars.

Hmm... that's strange! Different tank shape/layout? What's the engine on your car?

Besides the fuel level staying at Max for longer than expected (which is almost the "new norm" in automotive as you mentioned), is anyone else around here bothered by the noise made by the fuel smashing against the tank top or walls? It's occurring when the tank is almost full, and it's most obvious at slow speed maneuvers, e.g. braking for a speed-bump, forward-reverse while parking etc. I've heard it before in other cars, but in Octavia 4 it seems to be the loudest.

To be honest, I didn't expect such a big noise difference, even after your post... ...but the time came to compare my winter set with the factory one. Huge difference between the silence of the Bridgestone Blizzak LM005 Extraload (on 16" rims) and the noise/resonance of the Goodyear Efficient Grip (on 17"). They're the same width, I used the same pressure (~2.6) but there's no comparison between the noise level. It's the first time I was able to hear some faint aerodynamic noise at high speed (either from the A-pillar or from the side mirrors - not sure); with the summer set it was covered by the tire noise. Finally, the car sounds fairly well soundproofed; I was quite disappointed with the summer tires, which means that (at least for me) the Goodyear's are rubbish and I'm looking forward to replacing them.

Hmm... it's a good thing I searched the Forum, because I was starting to worry. The noise of the brake pedal (when releasing a bit faster) is a feature also on the 2.0 TDI DSG - just as @MCG1975 was mentioning for his manual. On the other hand I have no complains about the feel of the pedal - I'm quite happy with the long travel of the pedal. The noise however, was a bit worrying the first few times I heard it.

Don't get me wrong guys, I'm on Auto for 99% of the time while driving cars that have automatic climate control. It's just that I'm used to being informed by the system what's on/off and when... in this case A/C on or off.

Totally agree, I've been using it for exactly those purposes quite often; but I never need it on dry/sunny winter days when there's fresh air coming from outside (no re-circulation). What I meant is a bit different: on most automatic climate control cars, when you leave it on Auto, you'll be notified by an LED, symbol or pictogram when the compressor is engaged. Ok, thanks! I didn't know that - now the info & details in the Manual start to make more sense. So basically putting it to OFF in the menu will keep it at 0%, otherwise it may be continuously adjusted by the system, depending on the inside/outside conditions and user requirements.

I'm reviving an old topic (so I won't start a new one for no reason), 'cause I have a question - or rather a comment - on the "logic" of the climate control. The "A/C" button (the one hidden in the Clima Menu) has the two positions: green (ON) or white (OFF). However, as I was already assuming, the User Manual indicates that while ON, the Climate Control system will decide when to actually start or not the A/C. This is a bit intriguing for me, since I prefer to know when the A/C is on or off. On most of the cars I've driven so far, there would be some sort of notification that the compressor is actually engaged; either some light on the physical A/C button, or some Icon or pictogram on the Climate Control display. Furthermore, according to the details in the Manual, the A/C will switch on when the conditions for switching on are met. If we check the Operating conditions for the cooling system in the same Manual, this would imply that the Cooling System will be engaged even when the outside temperature is ~5 degrees C and I'm asking the system to deliver 23 C inside. That's with the Clima set to "Auto" and the A/C set to "ON". Does anyone else find this behavior as stupid? Or is there something wrong with me? Or is the system actually working as I'm hoping it does, but the details in the Manual are not that well exposed?

Well, actually @stripy007 is right, the official Octavia manual is indicating 140 Nm. And concerning the dealer - it wouldn't be the first time I'm asking a question to the dealer and get the wrong answer... But indeed, 140 Nm seems excessive.

K, thanks for that; I was too lazy to check the manual - thought it would be faster on the forum. BTW, those 140 Nm seem quite a lot; I wonder why would Skoda go up from 120 to 140 between MK3 and MK4. Most of the torque values I've seen so far (not only for Renault) were typically 110 +/- 10%.

Since we're on a wheels topic and I'll soon put on my winter 'shoes', does anyone here know the torque for the Octavia wheel bolts? Is it 110 Nm as I knew from other brands? (this being my first VAG car)

There was some light rain before noon, but by the time I left from work it was quite sunny and the road was dry. The car however was wet (being parked in the shadow and ~12 C), but really clean - no mud or traces of wed dust on it. The errors occurred about 10 km after the start, and by that time I think most of the car was dry - the water drops on the bonnet and the windows were all gone. I think I'll just have to wait and accumulate more statistics, maybe it was an isolated case caused by changing weather conditions and high humidity. I got a similar error before only for a couple of times on my Megane GT, but it was in the winter and it had some ice build-up in front of the radar in the grille - so that was quite normal.

This afternoon on my way home I received the first error messages on my dashboard: "Lane Assist temporary unavailable" followed immediately by "Front Assist temporary unavailable". I turned on the Lane Assist (turned off after I started the car) and it seemed to be working correctly - it detected the lane lines and showed the green symbol on the dash... Don't know what to say about this event. The car is about 6 weeks old and driven about 2.200 km, software version is 1896.

There's a setting for seats and steering-wheel heating auto-starting when the outside temperature is below a certain value; not sure, but I remember it being around 14 deg. Celsius.

Ok... So far, so good! The reversing camera is installed and working. Those guys moved quite fast - less than 2,5 hours in total: about 45 min. for physical installation and wiring + similar time for coding (I was starting to worry it took so long!) + some more time to calibrate the lines and put all the plastics in place. From the trunk door and through the left rubber tube, they guided the cables above the roof liner on the left of the car - just above the doors - and went down through the left A-pilar. After removing the plastics left of the footrest (that's a RHD car) they accessed the connectors where the reversing camera was plugged; and one more connector somewhere under the steering column, above the brake pedal. They said everything is coded with the factory; I guess I'll have to wait for a major update to be sure about that 😉. They didn't want to code for me VRS cockpit theme, or Lane Assist to "Last setting", even though I had the code lines. They said they only do retrofits, but do not want to change factory settings... as if coding the camera was not changing the factory settings.