SkOmk4

I received the notification for this OAA2 update (138 MB) during a longer weekend trip 10 days ago. I started downloading while driving and I initiated the installation during a gas-station stop. The system restarted a couple of times, all seemed to be in order and I continued my trip once the update was finished. Over the first few km I realized that the radio stations (Favorites) were no longer stored, and I assumed it somehow lost my settings during the update. Because of this assumption I also checked the ambient lights - they were not the colors I previously set. So I thought: Nevermind, I'll set everything back when I'll have the time... After the next stop the same day, when I returned to the car I noticed I was greeted with the message "Hello Guest" - so the car didn't know I was the Main User. So I went into Settings->User and chose Main User. After that all my settings were restored. So that was strike one: - mistook Main User and Guest after the update; (I only had one key with me - the one I always used for the Main User...) strike two: - the car somehow deactivates the keyless entry after several days. I only use the Octavia over the weekend, and I can only assume it goes into some sort of deep standby, because the keyless won't work after 5 days, but it works perfectly after one day (Saturday to Sunday). When it deactivated I tried every door and the trunk - with the same result: I had to use the key "unlock" button. strike three: - when I lock the car (keyless) the dashboard remains ON (showing the usual farewell screen: car picture + trip info) for few tens of seconds - it didn't seem to be the same timeout every time... The HUD is instantly OFF, but the digital cockpit stays ON. This never happened before this last update; I was paying attention because it was mentioned a couple of times on this forum.

I noticed on that red sign next to your car, that someone is kindly asking you not to feed the horses... is it referring to all 245, or only part of them?

That's a really ****ty way to treat customers... And I think you should follow this up with some customer protection authority. That's obviously a faulty product, Skoda is also admitting that - according to what you guys are posting here. Hence once a solution/fix will be released it should be applied to ALL affected vehicles. AFAIK, when car manufacturers launch a recall for a specific issue, they apply that solution to all the affected cars, not only to those that are still under warranty.

You also seem to have a non-stock air-filter-box cover. Was it part of the same 70 Eur deal?

Are U guys talking about the factory fitted wireless charger, or the aftermarket one that is connected to the USB-C of the car? On the stock (factory) charger there's no problem with the size of the S22 Ultra. I used one for a while but reverted to an S21 Ultra (I couldn't stand the sharp corners of the S22 and S23 design). Anyway, they both comfortably fit inside the charging space with some room to spare - the phone will even move from side to side if one goes a bit faster on a curvy road. FYI, for longer trips I'm only using the cable charging - this way the phone stays cold; with the wireless charging it gets really hot, plus the fact that it's starting and stopping charging depending on how it moves inside that space, and you get those messages that @lost_npc mentioned... 2xUSB-C ports in front, 2xUSB-C ports for the rear passengers... In case you need a 12V for other purposes (as I did) you might also use an adapter connected tot the 12V socket in the trunk of the car. Not ideal, but that's in case you don't want to connect directly into the fuse box inside the car.

This one is not about how it sounds, but about how it looks... 🥰

According to what @Jorgeminator described in the first few posts of the topic below, it doesn't look like the lower part of the back seats was designed with the purpose of being easily removed or forward-folded. He mentioned extra-care is needed with the front-clips that might brake, and also with the cable for the weight detectors that needs to be disconnected:

So you're looking for something like this? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33029550503.html I bet if you dig a bit deeper, you might find those already in a color matching your Velvet Red Later Edit: there you go: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000807731980.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.24.5b901f02GBgRDz&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.281175.0&scm_id=1007.40050.281175.0&scm-url=1007.40050.281175.0&pvid=3e496ba2-1dc9-4423-b183-df79c5714a97&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.281175.0,pvid:3e496ba2-1dc9-4423-b183-df79c5714a97,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&isseo=y&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000031605655130"%2C"sceneId"%3A"30050"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!EUR!5.89!5.89!!!!!%402101f6ba16754072814515187e696f!12000031605655130!rec

No, the kit provided by Viofo has 3 wires: 1 ground, 1 permanent +12V (only useful if you use parking mode) and 1 wire for non-permanent +12 V (contact/engine ON). This kit only powers the front camera. The back one connects directly to the front one for power supply and for data transfer to the SD-card.

I would have gladly used the mirror USB-C supply, but in my case it seems there's a "protocol" (or communication) issue. I have a new Viofo dash-cam that uses the ancient mini-USB input. I connect it to the mirror USB-C and it looks like it doesn't get any power. The mirror connector is fine, it powers my phone via usb-c to usb-c cable, but it won't power the camera via an aftermarket usb-c to mini-usb cable... Fortunately, I also have the fuse-box adapter-kit from Viofo, even though I didn't plan to use the parking mode. I'll now have to find the will and time to identify two available fuses (one permanent and one accessory) and then to play a bit with hiding the cables... (it's a dual cam, so there's one also going to the back of the car)

Sorry, when parked outside overnight in "suitable" condensation conditions, there's NO difference between halogen, xenon or LED... (Agreed, halogen is still dominant here also) And indeed, it happened over the years: I occasionally saw a Merc, BMW and/or other fancy(er) brands with condensation in the early morning, but that doesn't set the norm for those brands...

+1 Obvious for me since day 1 with Octavia, Never heard it so obvious in any other car I ever drove. But I didn't see it as a fault, just strange implementation... I'm guessing Octavia has some hard flap hitting against a hard material, while other cars probably have some softer material, at least on the interface/contact area.

That's exactly the reason why I was saying it's not normal... Because most similar cars don't have this effect clearly visible, while other cars have plenty of condensation - when all exposed to similar conditions. I remember @toot was mentioning recently on a different topic: you go through a large parking filled with cars that were there over night in cold, foggy or rainy weather - few cars will show plenty of condensation, but most of them will not. Which would obviously mean that condensation is not a standard feature for all cars, but it's either a design failure of a specific brand on a specific model or a defective headlight. The question I asked weeks ago still remains unanswered by "condensation experts" around here. Where do you draw the line between "normal behavior" and "warranty replacement"? There's no line on the headlight marked "above this limit we replace the headlight", there's no standardization as to what's the outside temperature and the air humidity to achieve a certain amount of "normal condensation". Obviously, the dealer response will vary from dealership to dealership, as it was the case for other obvious fails presented on this forum (e.g. software updates, steering wheel replacement etc.) It's ok, don't panic; you're not expected to understand... p.s. I'm hoping not all of your 9.2k posts are as useful to this forum community as you last posts on this topic...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit#gid=0 the App will identify the VIN once the car will be completed - at least that was the case for me. You have plenty of pages to read on this topic - to get a general picture... It depends on how many options you have on your order - the more electronics you have, the luckier you'll need to be for the car to be completed on the first iteration. There are (and there were) many people around here with cars built, but incomplete...

@ @JEFF-the-Bowman No sure why they add those holes, I'm assuming it's for pressure equilibrium with the exterior. For heat dissipation LED headlights have those metal radiators on the back, that were not present on halogen lights. @Combi_NX5 Ouch! That looks nasty! Mine were only half of what you had, just the clear part (without the red section), but I only checked the next morning when it was already clear&nice weather outside...

No, it's not what I'm suggesting or saying... However, what I am saying is that a moving car and some temperature variation inside the headlight (from the lights) will enhance the air-flow in&out of the headlight and therefore a humidity increase. Ideally, if there would be no temperature and no pressure gradient between the inside and the outside of the headlight, and no air moving along the back of the headlight (where the headlight vents are positioned) - then you'd have no humidity getting inside. Therefore: - for a parked car the air exchange will be mainly due to the pressure gradient (that's mainly atmospheric pressure variations); - for a slow moving car and no headlights the contribution of the moving air will be added; - for a fast moving car with lights on there will be a higher contribution of the "wind" around the back of the headlight plus the temperature gradient. Not really. Just plain simple physics; thermodynamics to be more precise. Do you have any picture showing the rear condensation that led to the replacement?

Well, that's quite far from what I was saying... I just mentioned above that Megane users reported headlight condensation (you quoted it!), so I fail to understand your logic. Simple extrapolation: if I'd have spent more time in those humidity and temperature conditions, the amount of condensation would have been higher. Sure, one may assume that at some point an equilibrium between condensation and drying will be reached, but I'm just worried it was not the case after 30 minutes.

Unfortunately, the GT (RS chassis and 4Control) was out of production in 2018 (sept) when Euro 6b became applicable. I would have also bought the Megane if they would have still offered an engine-gearbox combination that would have interest me. However, the closest version to the O4 I ordered was still ~15% cheaper ( order: Aug.2021). As I mentioned, when the errors occurred in my case, the driving conditions were really good, and all the involved surfaces&sensors were cleaned before the trip. I developed the habit of cleaning windows, front/rear lights, sensors and number plates before longer trips when the car is dirty. There was no reason for those errors to popup mid-trip, except for poor-implementation. And we know pretty well there's a tone of post around here reporting all sorts of errors. There's more than unparalleled level of complexity and faulty sensors - it's lazy-coding and insufficient testing. Indeed, the other manual mentioned "Traces of condensation may be a natural phenomenon caused by variations in temperature and humidity". And indeed, there are users that reported condensation, but nothing close to the pictures of @Hairy_Joe (6th Dec.). I'm not worried by traces of condensation such as those I posted on 6th of Dec., but the condensation I had last weekend after 30 minutes of driving through rain, would have become similar to @Hairy_Joe and @T13 pictures after 2-3 hours of rain... So where does one draw the line? I'm sure that warranty replacement is highly dependent on dealer... (the disclaimer is right there in the Manual)

My last car was also full-LED (front and back); I drove it for more than 40k km in ~2 years, had no condensation - at least not visible - and it met all the weather requirements according to MK4 standards for normal condensation... This morning I noticed the condensation was gone from the headlights, but it was there inside the back lights. The previous car also had front radar&camera, lane assist, blind spot monitor... Only got "Front assist unavailable" a couple of times when the radar was covered by several mm of ice/snow. Today I was half-way on a 200 km drive, I received simultaneously front assist, lane assist and maneuvering braking unavailable. The weather was really nice, sunny, perfectly dry roads, about 10 deg.Celsius. The car was dirty overall from the previous two days conditions, but I specifically cleaned the "sensitive" areas before starting the trip today (front radar, front/rear sensors). I know I'm going off-topic, but the point I'm trying to make is that I'm starting to worry I received more gremlins than I paid for. (BTW: the Megane GT was significantly cheaper than the MK4)

That is poor-engineering... I know it's COMMON - the manufacturers are covering the incompetence and design-flaws with "normal behavior" mentioned in the user/owner manual. It was NOT common a decade ago, two decades ago... and with plenty of other cars I drove in similar or worse conditions.

😡 It's getting worse with worse conditions... Today on a longer drive I had about 30 minutes of rain changing from drizzle to torrential (summer-like) rain, on an express way - so pretty high speeds, in temperatures just above 0 Celsius (1 to 3). You can see the outcome in the pictures below... It's the worst condensation I've seen so far in any of the cars I drove (there's been quite a few) on even bitter weather. Thank God I forgot to check the fog lights!!! 🤣

I searched and searched through the Service Manuals and couldn't find the piece of info I need (it's not really on-topic, but it's not that far...) I'm trying to figure out which of the unused positions in the fuse panel have permanent voltage and which are ACC (supplied on contact). I'm planning to install a power-supply hardware kit for a dash-cam and it needs both connections.

I suppose you already saw the Service Manual instructions for the turn-signal bulb replacement. The official procedure is indeed a nightmare - one has to remove the front bumper, to extract the headlight in order to replace the light bulb. Have a look at the last screenshot - maybe it helps you understand how the bulb socket is fitted. Good luck! (I hope you'll solve it without removing the front bumper!)

There are no wires to be seen on close inspection, simply because the heated windscreen for Octavia (and not only) uses a foil - metallic coating. All you should be able to see is a colored reflection when looking at the car from outside, in the proper light. The reflection is clearly different compared to the side windows, don't really know how to describe it; it is slightly blue-violet-ish - have a look at the picture. Another way to check for heated windscreen is to look for a lighter rectangular-patch on the dark areas left and right of the rear-view mirror. For heated windscreens those two patches are missing the metallic layer to avoid attenuation of electromagnetic waves - checkout the 2nd picture.

As I was saying yesterday, I'm not impressed (or I'm negatively impressed), simply because the rating of the very same car shouldn't go down. I'd really like to know what's hidden behind this retesting in such a short time. For those not familiar with EuroNcap: it's not often al all to test the same model more than once per generation. In most cases, not even the facelift isn't tested.