SkOmk4

Totally agree with you, but you missed the point I was making... I'll try to clarify: - @SurreyJohn mentioned that as a security feature, many cars lock themselves if all doors are closed about minute after unlocking. That's true, but only if none of the doors was opened during that minute. At least this is how most of the cars I drove were programmed, with or without kessy. - assuming that you have you car locked in the parking lot: you come torards the car, unlock it, but suddenly realize you forgot something and you go away from the car, without opening any door. The car will automatically lock after ~1 minute. Could you please explain how does the key get inside the car??? (Assuming the owner is other than David Copperfield...) - if the key is inside the car, one door was opened by the user at some point - at least to throw the key inside - and then the user left the car... In that case the car doesn't lock itself simply because a door was open, not because some fancy antenna is detecting the key/card inside the car (if we talk about cars without kessy).

Sure, many cars have that option - as a protection to accidental unlocking of the car (e.g. buttons touched while the key is in your pocket). But how do you get the key inside the car after unlock? A door needs to be opened to get the key inside... hence the car shouldn't automatically lock in 1 minute.

Indeed, I had a longer drive over the weekend and had the chance to monitor the temps - they all start shoving numbers at 50 deg Celsius (coolant, engine and DSG oil), nothing below this value. Correction to one of my previous posts: the set of three temperatures (coolant, oil, oil) only shows all three on the "classic" dashboard theme. All the other layouts only show two values. As discussed above, I was able to clear the B184C00 fault code once the SFD was locked. However, I was surprised to find 15 new fault codes after I cleared the existing ones several days ago. Saving the Log, I noticed that some of those faults occurred while the car was parked and unused for 1-2 days... ☹️

Great, thanks for that tip! Indeed, I was doing the scan after I completed the coding. Did that after ignition-off and ignition back-on, but with the hood still open. I was too lazy to get out of the car and close it. (actually I had no idea that it would be the root of that error )

Quick status update on my side: I tried to do the manual coding for the stuff that didn't work with OCAs. Both the g-meter and the Fan-level display were showing as "Active". Nevertheless, I set both to Inactive and then back to Active again, with no luck - neither works. @djmartzian: I also have Bolero - so that might explain the g-meter not showing... I also activated the Turbo-pressure and the set of 3-parameters DSG-temp.&&oil-temp.&&water-temp. Both are shown, but the 2nd only shows 2 parameters instead of 3 - DGS and oil temperature (1st picture). As you can see that's a bit redundant - having the oil temp in two places on the same dashboard layout. 2nd picture is related to a question I have: after I activated the VRS layout, I noticed that when the sound volume is adjusted from the steering-wheel, the level-bar sits on top of the rev-meter as if it was not supposed to be there. So the question is: does it look the same for those with native VRS cockpit view? And finally, after the suggestion of @djmartzian I decided to rescan for errors (I only scanned before unlocking the SFD). I could't find any of the nasty B17D7F0 code he mentioned, and I was able to erase all fault codes, except 1: I have the B184C00 fault code showing as "static" on "Dashboard" and on "Central Electrics" units -see 3rd picture. Should I worry about that? A quick search online showed that it might be normal as long as the SFD is unlocked...

In my case torque reading is ok, live changing with the accelerator, as the power does too (however, the kW units annoy me). BTW, I was surprised to see that the Oil temp. indicator was showing nothing (just "--") until the temperature reached 50 or 60 Celsius. After that threshold, it works like a charm! I'll try to manually code the stuff that didn't work via OCA, as @djmartzian suggested, when I'll find a bit of time. However, I couldn't find the coding for the "Fan level on Auto" - and it's one of the tricks I'd find quite useful...

Funny story... Now that you mention those issues and I read the topics from your links, I remembered that the car threw some errors after the OCAs. I when I finished I switched the ignition Off and then back On to see the results, and 3 errors were shown on the dashboard - I only remember two of those: Emergency Assist Error and Auto Hold Error. That happened Saturday evening, and I didn't scan for new errors. On Sunday I had a trip of ~180 kms and had no errors occurring - probably that's why I completely forgot/ignored those errors.

Finally got the time and guts to play with the recently arrived obd-dongle on my car. After a short headache with the 2-factor authentication (that I didn't see detailed around here) I did a full backup and a full scan - only to find about 40 errors. The SFD unlock returned an error message for a couple of times. I had to wait for 10-15 minutes and try again - it worked; I unlocked all modules that were locked. (forgot to mention: hood opened, ignition ON, engine OFF) I then tried several 1-click apps: - VRS cluster - worked; - engine power - worked; - engine torque - worked; - lane assist to last-setting - worked; - fan level on Auto - app said "done", but it didn't work; - G-meter - app said "done", but it didn't work; - central lock with IGN - app said "done", but I didn't test it. I'll try to manually code transmission temperature when I have the time. Besides that, anyone has any idea if it's possible to change the engine power display from kW to HP? There's a short thread for that on the obd11 forum, but there's no answer yet.

Could it be that your switch is always lit up because you have the rear lights ON? I don't know, I'm just asking. IIRC in bright daylight with lights OFF in "Auto" mode only the "Auto" will be green-lit on the switch.

Most countries don't have mandatory rear-daylights; Scandinavian ones do - hence the name of the App in OBD-eleven that turns on the back lights also during daylight. The risk of driving in darker areas (with Octavia) with no back-lights is practically zero, unless the owner does some coding with VCDS of OBD11. The car will automatically switch lights to "Auto" above a certain speed (10-20 km/h, not sure) which means it will turn ON front and rear lights when in gets a bit darker or when you enter a tunnel. I actually noticed it turns ON the lights quite early for my taste, when there's still plenty od daylight outside. Indeed, most of the cars of any brand don't have rear daytime running lights activated by the factory. My Megane 4 had rear-DRL activated from factory, but there are plenty of Megane 4 phase 2 that don't have it. Not sure what's the reason behind these changes. For sure rear-DRLs can be activated via can-clip. Finally, as @SteveTheElder mentioned, since there's no indication on the dashboard, you need to check the button under the steering wheel (left in my case, right side in yours) - you'll see an extra light coming ON next to "Auto" once the headlights start... (see the User Manual for details on each symbol)

For sure (as usual) the dealer won't care much about whatever a Forum thread is saying... 'cause they know better... 🙄 But in case it matters: my 2022 Octavia is still coasting in Normal mode; I have to admit I never used Eco mode so far. Great, simply flick-back the DSG joystick to go into "S" instead of "D". I also hate it and I'm always driving in S, never in D; sometimes I forget about that but I'm reminded at the first deceleration of the car.

Octavia currently has the worst delivery estimations in the entire VAG-group: (that's if we don't count some e-tron models with >18 months delivery time) https://www.marnet-mobility.de/aktuelle-lieferzeiten.html

I don't think that what you are calling "tick sign" is positioned there for warning purposes - it is simply there to let you know what that set of horizontal lines are showing... In this case the fuel level. That fuel-pump pictogram could have been placed very well in a different position, above or below the lines. When your fuel level reaches that pictogram position it doesn't mean you need to go to refuel ASAP. Youur picture shows that you still have fuel for about 3 lines out of 8, which roughly means about 1/3 of your fuel tank, which for a tank of 50 liters means that you still have about 16 liters left. You can easily let the petrol fall down to the last line marked with "R" - which is short for "reserve" if I'm not mistaking... At that point, that last line will turn from white to red as @SteveTheElder mentioned above. When you reach that point you still have about 100 km worth of fuel left in your car. Unless you live in the middle of nowhere, you would have enough range to arrive at a gas-station.

Enjoy it!!! You can now change the car in the signature 🙃 How come you had to wait for almost 2 years? It is not a PHEV as far as I can tell from the rev-meter...

You need to use the "wheel" on the right side of the steering-wheel. One click on that wheel will open the "menu" of the right side (where we now have the audio source). You'll notice two green arrows above and below inside the speedometer circle - if you scroll using the same wheel, you can change the content of the speedo-circle. One more click on the same right-wheel on the steering-wheel, will open the "menu" on the revs-circle. You'll notice two similar green arrows up and down. It means you can now scroll (using the same wheel) through the items to be displayed in the rev-circle. Have fun with the menu! BTW - each side (left and right) has a "Settings" section when you scroll through the right or the left menu. If you click "Settings", that will allow you to activate or deactivate stuff to potentially display on each side of the dashboard. Long-story-short, the video below is better than a thousand words... (L.E. Really sorry for the off-topic, but since it's a learning topic I thought the initiator of this topic might also benefit from it...)

Yep, that's my dashboard; picture is a bit fuzzy because I was taking it while driving, so not really carefully focused. You're right, it's not easy to get a range higher than 900 kms, but during that particular trip it happened that for a brief while I had a range of 1010 kms, without any effort! But don't worry - it is really strongly dependent on the situation. I find the range algorithm on Octavia quite "unstable" (or jumpy) compared to those of other cars I drive/drove. On that trip I was going for a weekend drive through the mountains, so I was driving simply to relax, not to get a good mileage or range. After exiting the highway, I filled up the tank just before entering mountain roads; the range after filling up was ~840 kms. The secondary mountain roads I took were slightly covered with snow and had plenty of sharp curves, therefore I had a small average speed and slow acceleration + some engine braking. That was going up the mountains for about 30 kms, and the range went also up with the altitude! 😉 (to about 860 if I remember correctly). Later I drove down the mountain with plenty of engine braking (partially because of the snow), and after about 50 km I met normal weekend traffic on national roads (within legal speed limits) towards the capital, for another >100 km. I was entering Bucharest with 1010 kms range 🙃. That's why I took several pictures of the dashboard - to explain my friends how my new car is able to ADD diesel into the tank while driving 😂 (you can see yourself the mileage of the car in the previous picture and the picture below... the range went up by 20km, while the car was driven for 74 km)

That's new... I remember reading around here - some were complaining about the mirror usb-c that turns off when the ignition is off, and they wanted to use parking mode for their dash-cams. L.E.: found the other topic:

The DSG software on Octavia MK4 does indeed put the gearbox into "P" when you press the button to stop the engine. It has become a habit for me to no longer press the gearbox-"P" for the park position, because the car does that automatically. BTW - for 2 years I used to drive another dual-clutch transmission (Megane-GT) that was not drive-by-wire and that needed manual input of the gearbox-lever into "P" position. In most of the situations I do not apply the parking brake (that is the other "P" in the car, not the one of the gearbox selector) - NOTE for the initiator of this topic: that's the electronic hand-brake operated by some electric motors on the back wheels, not manually as you used to do using a hand-brake lever. I'm generally not using it simply because I'm parking on horizontal areas most of the time; when the sloped terrain is asking for it, I'm also using the parking-brake. The shifter in the Octavia MK4 doesn't have a dedicated "M" (for manual) position. However, the driver may access the Manual-mode at any time (while the gearbox is in D/S position) by using any of the two shifter-paddles behind the steering wheel. The gearbox indicator on the digital dashboard will change from "D" or "S" to "M" followed by the number of the gear that is engaged. The gearbox will remain in Manual mode until the driver will put it back into Automatic mode, but will still change gears if the driver doesn't: it will downshift to avoid engine-stall, and it will up-shift to avoid over-revs while accelerating. To go back into Automatic mode from Manual-drive, the driver has two options: pull back (short-pull is enough) on the gearbox selector, or pull back the "+" paddle behind the steering wheel for about two seconds. As @toot mentioned, reverse is for going backwards - so that's for you to decide... Neutral - you'll probably never need that position in normal usage conditions; it is mainly needed when you need to push the car for a couple of meters, or for towing the car when there's no other option. D/S is for going forward, only the gearbox behavior (software)) is different. In "D" the gearbox is shifting gears at quite low revs and it will not show the gear-number on the dashboard of the car. In "S" only the gearbox is in Sport-mode (not to be confused with the "Sport-mode" of the Engine&&DSG), so it will change the gears at slightly higher revs, and you'll also see the engaged gear-number on the dash (see second picture - lower-left corner). I always use the "S"-mode of the DSG, because I hate not knowing the engaged gear, and because "D" is keeping the revs too low for my taste.

Is that the software version that came from the Factory? Or is it the consequence of your visit to the dealer, or received OTA? (You mentioned on the other topic you went to see them yesterday or today) I seem to have the same hardware as you do (my car was built end of August '22), not sure if the last letter in "Device part number" makes a huge difference. I wonder if we should also expect to receive the 1900 OTA... The Navi database version in my case is different, 'cause I don't have the navigation. I imagine that it might change if I would buy the package from the Skoda Shop. But for me Waze is way better.

Welcome to the club! It's now a good time install the Skoda app on your phone and try to add your car - if you haven't done so already. If it's indeed completed, it will be shown by the App and you'll be even more excited.

My key is always away from my phone, either in a different pocket, or in a dedicated pocket inside my backpack. And prior to this update I don't remember seeing this behavior, even though I was using the car with the same frequency (weekend) for most of the time. This morning I had to pick up something from the car, so I had the chance to check: the keyless worked flawlessly. So it would seem that Sunday to Wednesday is too soon to go into what I'm assuming is that deep-standby.

Can you be more specific? Are you referring to the headlights washer jets, or the windscreen washers?

I received the notification for this OAA2 update (138 MB) during a longer weekend trip 10 days ago. I started downloading while driving and I initiated the installation during a gas-station stop. The system restarted a couple of times, all seemed to be in order and I continued my trip once the update was finished. Over the first few km I realized that the radio stations (Favorites) were no longer stored, and I assumed it somehow lost my settings during the update. Because of this assumption I also checked the ambient lights - they were not the colors I previously set. So I thought: Nevermind, I'll set everything back when I'll have the time... After the next stop the same day, when I returned to the car I noticed I was greeted with the message "Hello Guest" - so the car didn't know I was the Main User. So I went into Settings->User and chose Main User. After that all my settings were restored. So that was strike one: - mistook Main User and Guest after the update; (I only had one key with me - the one I always used for the Main User...) strike two: - the car somehow deactivates the keyless entry after several days. I only use the Octavia over the weekend, and I can only assume it goes into some sort of deep standby, because the keyless won't work after 5 days, but it works perfectly after one day (Saturday to Sunday). When it deactivated I tried every door and the trunk - with the same result: I had to use the key "unlock" button. strike three: - when I lock the car (keyless) the dashboard remains ON (showing the usual farewell screen: car picture + trip info) for few tens of seconds - it didn't seem to be the same timeout every time... The HUD is instantly OFF, but the digital cockpit stays ON. This never happened before this last update; I was paying attention because it was mentioned a couple of times on this forum.

I noticed on that red sign next to your car, that someone is kindly asking you not to feed the horses... is it referring to all 245, or only part of them?

That's a really ****ty way to treat customers... And I think you should follow this up with some customer protection authority. That's obviously a faulty product, Skoda is also admitting that - according to what you guys are posting here. Hence once a solution/fix will be released it should be applied to ALL affected vehicles. AFAIK, when car manufacturers launch a recall for a specific issue, they apply that solution to all the affected cars, not only to those that are still under warranty.