Phoenixboy

One of the main reasons I went for the SE spec, as it came with 205/55 16's from standard, slightly more compliant ride, bigger, cheaper tyre choice, too. I also went for the lower spec, as wanted less tech gizmos, inc lane assist. Downgrading your tyres & wheels wouldn't be a difficult job, if that was the route you wanted to take. More meat on the tyres would give you slightly better comfort over potholes, no matter what make you put on. I do prefer the extra comfort of the SEL seats, but I wouldn't go to the effort to swap mine.

Auto tailgate sounds good, never had that luxury😂12v boot power socket good, too. Estate's are so much more practical, my first in over 35 years of driving. The 1.0tsi is surprisingly peppy, doesn't feel underpowered, within my opinion.

Mine is stop and start, I'd presume the rest are now, just a button to press to disable it. Mine being the SE spec, it also has a key being on an 19 plate. I purposely picked a lower spec car for less gizmos & smaller wheels. Load space is great, also like the fact you can flip the rear seats down from the boot area, too. Rear seats don't fully fold flat, though, but not far off.

I stripped everything out of my boot, I could see where the water was coming in from, but unable to stop it, as it was leaking in from a seam lower down, tracking in from somewhere else. I didn't really want to take the rear bumper off to investigate further. Also took the rear light clusters off, too. Then moved onto an estate, as I needed the extra room. Now having an intermittent issue with the display screen, turning off an on itself.

My mate owned an Up GTI 1.0tsi manual, the engine seemed impressive, although the car was a bit lighter. Regarding my dsg (dq200), it's my second mated to the 1.5tsi engine, the both auto boxes have performed faultlessly, always smooth & my current Octavia has now covered 66k now. The start and stop system has always been a bit of a pain within all my vag cars, so I tend to switch it off, whether it be the 1.0tsi or the 1.5ti engines. I also had an ongoing boot leak into my previous Octavia (not this one), so I'd take out the spare wheel & if it's at all wet or feels sticky under it, leave it well alone.

The 1.0 tsi is not a rocket, but it's not slow. I also found it to be very economical engine using e10 within my previous Scala 1.0tsi dsg. What I did find with the 1.0tsi mated to the dsg, it was a little slow to engage dsg on take off, bit of a lag, around a second, but something I adapted my driving style, too. So it's probably better mated up to a manual box. I don't have that issue with my current 1.5tsi act dsg estate.

I spoke too soon it's just started doing it again🤣 a week later, so very intermittent.

Update, It's not happened again, I'll put it down to a software glitch.

I'm onto my second MK3 facelift Octavia with this engine & dsg box, my current Octavia has covered 66k up to now, no dsg or engine issues with either motors so far. They are known for going through sparkplugs fairly quickly or within my experience, anyway. Other than that I'd have no issues with buying this engine again. On my previous 1.5tsi dsg, I replaced the rear wiper motor & boot lock button switch (common issue), other than a recent software screen glitch that's not occurred again, they've been reliable. I also replaced a set of plugs after 10k. Both engines have ran smooth from cold & hot, until one of the plugs started to fail, it was then running lumpy for a bit without any dash lights, until I replaced it when a dash light came up with a cylinder missfire, caused by the plug breakdown. If my current Octavia wasn't under Skoda extended warranty I'd prob have the dq200 dsg box oil replaced & the mechatronic box's oil replaced, too. Both sealed for life, but we know what that means. I bought my current Octavia from a skoda main dealer, it came with a yaers extended warranty, when that runs out I'll be taking the Skoda all in 2 year warranty out, inc servicing & breakdown cover, as it's reasonably priced. If I have my car after that I'd then prob change the gearbox oil & have the timing belt replaced, too, but as they'll all be covered under the extended warranty, I won't until then. So far I've not had any dsg related issues with either car, the 7 speed dsg box has always ran smoothly without issues.

Whilst I was driving along today my display clock decided to turn it's self on and off intermittently. I then turned on my radio, that did the same thing, but come up with a message stating "the park pilot is unavailable". It's seemed to have stopped doing this for now. Anyone experienced similar? Could it be faulty head unit?

I was going to say your roof rails can make a strange type of noise at speed, hard to identify until you know what it was. I can hear mine at around 60 mph up over you see, being my first ever estate I didn't realise what the noise was, until someone obviously pointed it out to me. Nothing below that speed, though. Have you tried swapping your wheels and tyres over from front to back?

Are you hearing it at all speeds or at just higher speeds?

As above has stated, its a common issue, I had one replaced under extended skoda warranty on my last octavia. Otherwise I'd have replaced it myself.

No, but I can remember a couple of people coming on here saying the same thing, one being a taxi driver, that motor has over 130k on the clock. I did have some rough running issues from cold on my previous 1.5tsi, change of plugs all resolved. Although it took a while to diagnose, as I waited until there was a fault code present, relating to a cylinder misfire. These engines seem to like regular plug changes. The coil packs are not uncommon to failure, either. If you ate not 100% sure when the plugs were changed last, I'd change them. Prior to me changing the plugs, with no ecu codes stored, the engine sounded a little lumpy when cold.

I'm onto my second 1.5tsi act dsg now, my current car has covered 65k from new, no its not rattly, neither was my previous 1.5tsi Act engine. Yes there would be some injector noise, they are a gdi engines. I've owned many cars from the 80's onwards including diesels, but I wouldn't consider this engine to rattle anymore than any of my other previous petrol engines, diesels aside. Although I have heard a few come on here complaining about rattly 1.5tsi's. I also consider this engine to be very fuel efficient, as two of the 4 cylinders cut off around a third of the time on my engine to save fuel. I've averaged 46mpg from it long term on regular e10 fuel, which it seems happy to run on, considering its 150bhp and I have an estate, I don't think that's bad. I'm still running with the original coolant and original timing belt. My cars on a 20 plate, too. It's normal for the revs to increase slightly on this engine from a cold start, then for them to drop back to a general lower tick over level again, shortly afterwards.

Just fir info, found the parts I'd need or anyone else if they were wanting to buy the lighter supporting bracket, it's 11 and 10 on this picture.

The socket housing plastic was broken, managed to get it out, does anyone know if this is replacable or not? I've repaired the power socket on a semi permanent basis. Bound the top part with electricians tape, pushed it back in, now a very tight fit.

Got it off, but still doesn't leave much access to the power socket though.

How do I remove it on my mk3 face-lift? This silver surround piece is easy enough to clip off from the front, but the whole surround inc the buttons seem tight. I want to remove it to see if I can access my 12v power socket from there, as that's loose. Looks like the 12v power socket retaining clip has come loose. Thanks.

Interesting to know about the front pads, as I'll check mine first if I ever replace the fronts, 100% I couldn't take my rear discs off the rear hubs without taking the carrier brackets off first, that's the hardest part of the job, getting the rear m14 torx headed bolts off. Otherwise the rear discs & pads would have been a lot easier to replace.

I doubt you'd devalued a your car at all considering it's age & mileage. I'm only having my car serviced at Skoda due to it's extended warranty with them, otherwise I wouldn't let them touch it. I don't use a main dealer for better service, infract I've known them cut corners on many occasions, not just with Skoda, either. I also replace my own brakes, as they're not covered under warranty, plus I'll save a lot of cash within the process of doing so. So if you have the ability to service it yourself, why not, something rather rewarding with maintaining your own car to a decent level, do it's yourself then you know it's done right & you've saved yourself cash.

This happened to me a while ago within my wifes previous Landrover, I ended replacing the fuel filter myself twice to get rid of the water contaminated diesel, as it also put the it into limp mode, twice. This is the only time ever I've experienced bad fuel, within over 35 years of driving. Hopefully this would never happen to you again.

I had a caliper rewind kit, had it for ages & bought it off ebay, used it on loads of cars. I also have the manual handbrake. I also had to take the caliper retaining bracket bolts off using (m14), bits, that was the hardest part of the job, due to limited access working off my drive & they're very tight. Otherwise there was no way of sliding my discs out from the caliper retaining bracket. The fronts looked easy within comparison. I just used british made discs & pads from my local motor factors, cost me £60. can't be any worse than the vag stuff previously fitted. You might get lucky, as on most you can slide the discs out from the caliper bracket past the rear hubs, couldn't with mine, as the disc where it fits over the hub was too deep. Hopefully I won't ahve to change the rears again, as they'd already covered 62k from new, fronts were changed last year at around 50k. I've only owned this car for around 3 months now.

I've also changed the rear brake pads & discs myself, none Skoda parts, saved myself a fortune. Not changed a front set yet on mine, but they do look a lot easier.

The infamous health check. I'd just say no thanks, take it home & check it yourself, tyre included.