Phoenixboy

I'd probably say not a lot of faults within my short experience of owning a similar aged Octavia. I also own an 2019 plate Octavia 1.5tsi act se dsg. Bought it 17 months ago with 22k on the clock, now covered 32k. Within 10,000 miles covered it's had, two sets of plugs, due to a year of lumpy cold running. Numerous visits to the the main dealer and ecu light illuminatons, called out AA once, too. Replaced the rear wiper motor, that failed shortly after I'd bought it, again another visit to the dealer under extended warranty. Rear boot switch failure, extended warranty job. Boot leak, just sorted it. Took me 3 hours to resolve using a hosepipe to locate the leak, then stripping half the back of my car out to get to it. Thought my days of messing around with cars was over. I also replaced the rear discs and pads myself at 28k, as the factory set were shot. I've not totally given up on vag, yet. This is my first Skoda. Just put a deposit down on an 3 year old Scala 1.0tsi se dsg, pick it up next week. Hopefully I'll have better luck with this one. I feel your pain.

Good news it was replaced under warranty, efb's were probably originally fitted because they're cheaper.

Further attached pics, couldn't upload them to my previous post due to their size. Pictures of the plastic trim piece that attaches to the rear light cluster and of the rear light cluster itself. The plastic trim piece on the picture below attaches to the side of the rear brake light cluster, the top of the trim piece is flexible, the water was getting past that, followed my car body downwards then came out into the boot between the joint. I've sealed the top of the black trim piece to the car body with some some flexible black gutter seal. Hopefully this will stop the water going into the boot. Although this has to come off if you were to change the rear light cluster bulbs. So not sure if it's down to bad design.

I stripped off the tailgate trim today, then got the hosepipe out. Found a very slow weep from the lower hatch seal (pic one). Not sure if that would be enough for water to get into my boot though. I put my trim back on. Tried the channels down the side of the hatch, water then trickled in from the lower corner of my wheel well (see pic 2 and 3), I then proceed to take the rear light cluster off, I think the water was going past the light cluster at the back through the black plastic trim piece down under the rear bumper and out into my boot from the corner wheel well joint. It's actually rust that you can see within the corner of boot where the water has leaked into it, so it must have been going on for a long time. I've sealed the top of the plastic trim piece back onto the car body with some black flexible gutter seal, hopefully this will finally stop the water ingress into my boot.

Mine was efb from factory, I had mine replaced a year ago by a trusted Independent, charged me £150 all in, inc a 2 year guarantee and they coded it in. I checked mine prior to a cold start and during tick over with my multi meter, then had it load tested. They confirmed it was getting down. It was 4 years old when I had it replaced.

Good, dealer said a year. Although I had 3 of my 4 plugs replaced when they failed after they were 14 months old under the manufacturers guarantee, I had to pay for the fourth one as they were to tight to pay for that. Obviously I'd prefer to replace all 4.

I've been putting up with an intermittent water leak from the bottom of my tailgate trim panel for well over a year now. When I open the tailgate after it has previously rained water runs out from the fixing trim plastic clips at the bottom of the trim panel usually onto my head🤣 A few weeks ago I took out the mini rubber bungs from the bottom of the tailgate it's self next to the trim panel, my wheel well now is starting to fill up with water. The water must now be running straight out of the tailgate drainage holes, passing the rear hatch seal and straight into my boot floor. It's not a massive leak, probably took 3 weeks to accumulate less than half an inch of water within the wheel well. I'm going to take off the tailgate trim panel over the next few days and get the hosepipe out on the outside of my car to see if I could spot where the water was coming in from. Just another issue I'm trying to resolve on my car. Anyone else had a similar issue?

My car is back from the dealers, it was the rear boot switch to which I expected. They replaced it for free under the Skoda extended warranty with a years guarantee. They actually had the part in stock, I wonder why? Lol

Well I've just checked fuse 50, my car doesn't have one as stated within the owners manual for the tailgate. My money is on the boot button, but as its booked in at the dealers on Monday I'll let them sort it. Otherwise I would have changed it myself, as I've seen copy ones on ebay for less than £20. I'll update again once sorted.

Think I may have fully understood the fuse set up now, the central locking has two fuses. The rear tailgate has fuse 50, the rear tailgate also possibly has a control unit within it, my guess that's failed completely now. Although I'll check fuse 50. Anyone know what amp etc this one is, could I possibly swap it with another to test it?

No, boot does not unlock via holding the boot button down via the keyfob or with the central locking. It was failing intermittently for a few months, now failed completely. Can't open it at all. I have a skoda extended warranty which should cover locks, but thought I'd check the fuse first, before booking it in. Cheers.

My boot has now failed permanently, does anyone know which fuse I need to look at first? Although I'm thinking it's the switch, but wouldn't harm for me to check first. Fuse 50, behind glovebox? Cheers.

Well the problem occurred again today, parked up. Went to open the boot and nothing, tried the all doors lock button twice, nothing just solidly closed. Went back into the car, tried unlocking it via my dash button, made no difference. Then held my keyfob button down (the boot open only function), it popped open straight away. Although my issue is extremely intermittent, it can go three months without issue. I also have the skoda extended warranty which covers locks, but presumably they'd have to replicate the issue which may be next to impossible at the moment, but at least for now when it does happen again, at least I should be able to open it.

Thanks for the info. It's clean water that's coming out of the bottom of the trim panel. So it's coming from somewhere. It's also intermittent, worst type of fault. The wiper motor is easy enough to access. So I may put some silicone around the seal. My octavia has certainly not been fault free for the duration on my ownership (15 months), but I slowly seem to be working my way through them.

Did you ever get this sorted? I've had a similar intermittent rear hatch water leak now for over a year, since I've owned my car. Water up to now hasn't gone into my wheel well, fortunately. I don't think it's wiper/washer related. As the water that comes out of the rear hatch panel is clear. I've also just emptied my water tank out from my rear washer spray jet, still dry as a bone. I've now took out the 3 small rubber bungs from the bottom of the rear hatch/tailgate. So if the water drains out passively I won't be too bothered, as long as it doesn't then drain into the boot. The only other thing I could think of would be the rear wiper arm seal, but that looks tight,not tested that as yet.

Thanks for getting back, I did try the boot only button at the time, not sure if I help the button down for the two seconds or not. Do you know if any fault codes would be stored after the event? If it were to happen again I'll try the boot lock only button. Cheers.

Today I couldn't open my rear door hatch, I pressed my kefob as normal to open all of my doors & rear hatch on my car (as I have this option ticked within the settings menu of my car). Went to put some shopping in my boot, pressed the rear hatch button to open it & nothing. Tried pressing my fob another two times, again nothing apart from fob light flashing, even tried unlocking it with the boot only button, again no luck. All my doors opened as normal, so put my shopping on the rear seats. I'm presuming it can't be fuse 42, as my rear doors opened as they should. Arrived back home, turned ignition on & off, tried fob again & hatch now working normally as it should. I'm hoping it's not going to turn into an intermittent issue. I have the Skoda all in extended warranty, fortunately & I think locks are covered if the fault could be found. Anyone else experienced similar? Any advise? Thanks.

I've also generally noticed that my engine feels a lot smoother now (warm and hot), no jerkiness from a cold start either. I'd reommend anyone that suffered from cold running issues with the type of engine (1.5tsi act), to replace their plugs. Soon after I bought my car around 16 months I had my plugs replaced by a Skoda dealer, obviously one or maybe two of them were faulty, causing a slow deteriation with my engine running from a cold start. Obviously my eml light only came on when the symptoms became more obvious.

I hope so, I've been putting up with this very intermittent issue from around Jan this year, last few weeks it became more prevalent. Part no U05E905602. £20.20 plus £4.04 VAT= £24.24 per plug at the dealers, obviously. NGK then? It's due for a major service in 8 months time within the "all in plan", I've paid for. So I think I'll ask to keep my old plugs (being 8 months old by then), so that I could use them again, once it's out of extended warranty.

Hopefully final update. I booked my car in today at a Skoda dealer with a potential £126 diagnostic cost. I was informed that cylinder 2 & 3 misfires were caused by faulty plugs & plug within cylinder 1 was marginal, I'd had all 4 replaced by them 15 months ago. So Skoda agreed to cover the cost of replacing them, yep 3 not 4. So I covered the cost of replacing the fourth one myself, although the dealer said they wouldn't charge me labour to do so on the fourth plug😂So the single plug cost me £24.24 inc vat. Hopefully that's it now, no more intermittent EML lights. Is there a potential plug issue with the 1.5tsi act engine or have I just been unlucky?

Light came on again from a cold wet start, ecu flashed for around 10 seconds went off again. Checked codes with my generic code reader, again. Codes logged pending, plus one extra than before. It's a 2-6 week wait, dependent on where you go to get an diagnostic booked in at the dealers. Once I get to the bottom of it, I'll post again. Extra code attached that wasn't added earlier.

Update of sorts. 5 weeks on from the above issue, may car has been A1 since. Started my car this morning and a start & stop error came up on my dash, nothing unusual about that. As it's done this intermittently since I've owned the car. I then started the car again the same day, S/S light appeared again then the yellow ECU light flashed continuously afterwards for around 10 seconds whilst the car was at idle, then went off & stayed off. Checked to see if any codes were stored with my cheap plug & play diagnostic reader, no codes stored. I'd prefer it if my car failed completely for Skoda Assist (AA), to then take the car away to have it diagnosed at Skoda dealer, as i have the extended Skoda warranty, rather than living with an intermittent issue.

Well I've been out in my car for over an hour today from a cold start and it's running A1, so at the moment I'm thinking possible contaminated fuel or maybe blocked injectors? Suppose I'll find out within the weeks to come if it were to occur again. A week ago previously to this I'd filled up with Shell e10, not the most common fuel I use, was just passing the garage. At this point I'm not sure what this issue was. Apart from rough running and fault codes relating to injectors 2 and 3. A static ecu light then eventually changed to a flashing light. I'll update if anything else was to occur.

That's low. prior to starting my battery was at 12.6v, tick over 15v. Although I've had my battery replaced 6 months ago now.

His diagnostic reader looked basic, but I may be wrong, generic for all cars, possibly. Came up with nothing extra that what mine had. I priced up a new coilpack up, they're around £15 each to replace myself. With it being a multi cylinder miss fire I'm not convinced two or more would go together. Could be fuel, mechanical, who knows. I have my car booked in at the dealers for a diagnostic in two weeks time, I'll keep an eye on my car until then, if it doesn't happen again, I'll cancel it. If it does I'll ring the AA out again & they can mess around with it again. He said if it had been a live code He's be able to do something about it & possibly have my car transported to the dealers. Makes me wonder why bother with codes at all, if you can't diagnose a fault that was logged a couple of hours prior to him arriving. Maybe down to the fact it was a basic code reader he's used.