Stonekeeper

It is elsewhere suggested on the world wide web that everything typed into comparison sites is collated, so if someone does a search for a car insurance quote and inputs details then submits details again and changing what they have put to see if the price alters. The insurer will then query the change. If mods have been input before for that registration then later not, photos would be needed to verify?

If you declared the factory options they may just be looking to check? Did you do a history check on the vehicle before purchase? They may know something about the car they need to verify? Also Hastings are a Broker not an insurer so it's possible the particular underwriter that they have the quote from needs them.

it is worded as "up to 10,000 miles" so i think it will be Kilowatts at the wltp

Model years often start being made the year before. Two examples from the recent past are the 2016 Kia Sorento and the 2016 Mazda CX-9. While both vehicles wore the same model-year designation, the two mid-size crossover SUVs were released at very different times. In Kia's case, the Korean company began selling its new 2016 Sorento in January 2015. At the time, a Kia spokesperson explained: "Model-year designations may be assigned because of the vehicle's larger life-cycle plan." The spokesperson added that "marketing, fuel economy, and homologation reasons" are also at play in this decision, and regulatory requirements may change from model year to model year. https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a15345331/americas-next-top-model-year-or-why-new-car-model-years-arent-in-sync-with-the-calendar/ This happens all over not just the US

Could be a faulty cap? heater issue sounds like an air lock, both in and out pipes should be similar temp? Boiling out but constant 90c could be faulty temp sensor. can you run it long enough for the fans to kick in?

Does that code appear on the Vin plate on the door pillar? Some manufacturers put it there.

https://colorndrive.com/en/touch-up-paint/skoda-kamiq Shows where to look for the label ^^^^^ May be of help

If you get a puncture do you get it repaired and put the part worn tyre back on or do you buy a new tyre. Some buy new tyres. some have them repaired from the inside after inspection of the tyre, some gamble with a threaded emergency repair without removing the tyre and never get it looked at.. Everyone has their own view of what is safest.

Does anyone with an Enyaq have experience of traveling with a cool box in the boot, how much does it affect range?

I have no idea other than to say , at the time I was using/buying them 1980s to 90s. The tyre place i used said he got them from Germany in container loads. Whether they were Winter tyres or not, I cannot remember. Or whether EU regulations dragged us up to 1.6 and them down i am also not sure. The UK was 1mm before 1992

Part worn is a bit of a minefield, so depends on the place you get them and their source. Some could be almost brand new from insurance write offs etc. Some are from people who don't believe in puncture repairs and just buy new whatever. Then there are imports from countries with a higher minimum tread than the UK. Used to buy them when skint but don't now.

If Dad just pops around town mainly? https://www.asdatyres.co.uk/kumho/es31/185-60-14-82-h--es31?id=8808956238285 https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Kumho/Ecowing-ES31.htm

At 80kmph (50mph) you should be at least 53 metres from the car in front. But this is now digressing from what the OP originally asked. The recent MOT tester made no comment about the tyres.

What Does the MOT Tester Check on the Tyres?The MOT tester inspects the tyres to ensure that they are in a roadworthy condition. During the test, the tester checks the following Tyre Tread DepthThe tread depth of your car's tyres must be above the legal limit of 1.6mm. The tester uses a tread depth gauge to measure the depth of the tread. If the depth is below the legal limit, your car will fail the MOT test. The reason for this is that the tread provides the necessary grip and traction that your car needs to maintain control on the road. Tyre ConditionThe condition of the tyres is also checked during the MOT test. The tester inspects the tyres for cuts, bulges, or any other damage that can affect their safety. If there are any defects, the tester will recommend that you replace the tyres before driving. Driving with damaged tyres can cause blowouts or punctures, which can be dangerous, especially at high speeds.

I agree with @JimG59 but There is no definitive tyre age limit as to when you should replace your tyres but once your tyres reach 7-10 years old, you should keep a close eye on their condition and consider replacing them. It is illegal for the front (steering) axle or axles of: goods vehicles with a gross mass more than 3.5 tonnes buses coaches minibuses and also to the rear axle, or axles, unless equipped with twin wheels to use tyres aged more than 10-years.

A new feature but appears to be nonsense for mine. Thursday plugged in for five hours and it shows two readings one of 56min and one of 1hr 14 Friday plugged in for six hours and it shows three 2hrs 33min, 4min and 1min. Total for March 28kwh and always states multiple charges on the same day but none add up to what was delivered.

Front cup holder? https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/380e81c9a89aa6520b5efc3170aef2c8_1_en_GB?ct=1efe865655219b85ac1445251bd57c94_1_en_GB#titled20292014e97256

Sixth month stats from the car Feb-Mar 286mile @ 3.5m/kwh = 81.71 kw. [email protected] = £20.72 My Mondeo would have averaged 35 mpg for 286m @£1.367 litre = £50.26 Long term guessometer now reset. Stat from the GOM the car has been on for 23.37 hours and averaged 12mph.

😉

It would be interesting seeing it try to get around itself😄

Tsla up 34% year on year