krisp1

Parts like that are not sold separately. I suggest you getting a seat or seat base from a Mk1 Octavia, Mk4 Golf or a Seat Leon to get the mechanism from. It does not have to be a VRS. All the seats have the same adjustment mechanism.

The photos are not of a Mk11 Octavia. They look like a MkIV Octavia from 2020 onwards. Look in the glovebox and also read the manual. In a Golf of similar age the SD card slot is in the glovebox.

I had an issue with the rear wiper working all the time unless the fuse was removed. However the fuse blew if I washed the rear screen. The cause was eventually traced to the wiring for the washer pump getting trapped under the engine mounting when the timing belt had been changed by an incompetent garage. Trapping and squashing the wiring harness created a short circuit. I would suggest you remove the washer bottle and examine the washer pump wiring for any damage.

The xenon bulb is connected to the control unit mounted on the back of the headlamp. There are earth points by the battery and I think under the screen wash bottle. The issue might be the control unit rather than the earth. A diagnostic scan may reveal issues with the control unit if there are any.

The language of this forum is English please. Also use of capitals is regarded as shouting.

As the document states it was introduced on the 1.6 petrol engines you have. The implementation was a major change and the 1.9PD engine probably was not engineered for it. It does not appear on the CAYC 1.6tdi engine that replaced it as far as I can tell.

Bear in mind Iberian market cars may be a different specification to UK cars. The English language Climatronic documentation do not mention the valve you mention.

A vacuum operated thermostatic valve is only relevant for cars with manual AC control. Climatronic as in this instance does not have a vacuum thermostatic valve.

The ringed item is the flap. The foam seals on these are quite narrow and if they fail they will not cause a lack of heat. Fundamentally the air is not flowing through the heater matrix which means the flaps are not moving. I am not convinced you are using a suitable diagnostic code reader to find the errors. The effort of dismantle the heater unit is huge. You need to find someone with VCDS to check for codes. Also when the servo motors are replaced VCDS will initialise them to have them correctly set up. The servo motors are mounted on the outside of the heater unit, they are not easy to get to, but are less work than splitting the heater unit.

If you plug in a generic OBD code reader you will not get any error codes for air con, brakes etc. The OBD standard only covers engines. You need a dedicated VAG code reader to cover all the systems on a VAG car. Am I correct about your code reader? This is the read out from VCDS when I had problems with the flap motor on my car. The codes are specific to VAG cars.

Have you removed the "flow straightener" from the air filter box. It is very restrictive. Removing it from my 1.6 tdi improved the bottom end torque and improved the fuel consumption by about 2mpg.

There are no exposed sharp edges. Any that are there are protected by the road wheel. It is not an MOT failure item.

As indicated in the diagram the connectors are not directly inside the pressing. You have to remove the footwell trim panel to access the connector. The connector is 150mm below the grommet on the body. It is indicated in the first image I posted. For rear doors it is down by the seat belt reel.

Peel back the grommet and look for connector. Image from Skoda manual.

The Haynes manual for the Golf Mk5 suggests every 60,000 miles for all the different engines in them, commenting that VAG recommend 120,000 miles. Given the age of the car I would change the belt, tensioner and any idlers. It could be on borrowed time.

There is a micro switch in each seat belt stalk they can go faulty. VCDS can switch off the seat belt chimes.

From the description it sounds as if the the variable vane turbocharger sticks when you accelerate and causes an over boost condition which then puts the engine into the limp home mode. Switching off the ignition clears the limp home mode and does not necessarily leave a fault code. Driving very gently may not push the boost too high and hence into limp mode. The cure would be a new or reconditioned turbocharger. Some people have cleaned them out, however I cannot comment about effectiveness or side effects.

A flashing glow plug light is a warning of an engine management problem, not just glow plugs. The car needs to be connected to VCDS or another diagnostic problem to understand the issue. I had a glow plug light flashing which was inconsistencies with the throttle pedal signal. Cleaning the connection and clearing the fault cured it. I am not saying that is your issue, however diagnostics are needed to overcome expensive guesswork.

Fundamentally you are being attempting to be fleeced by the dealer. The above is a lot of noise worrying you. When the oil is hot it expands slightly, so if it is at the full mark when cold it is ok. Engines are not that sensitive to oil levels.

Look at the bottom pinned post "Identifying wheels and parts for an Octavia mk2" Look at the images to identify your wheels.

Personally I would reject both. If you are confident of the level it could be a scam on both counts. I would not go to a dealer for a tyre and you can already have oil. 75% is too round a number to be credible in my opinion.

The length of the bodywork behind the rear wheels is greater on the Octavia than the Leon. This suggests the towbar will not fit. It may look the same but I expect the dimensions are very different.

The idle speed is controlled by the electronic throttle body and timing adjustment both controlled by the ECU. Cleaning the throttle body and checking for vacuum leaks from perished hoses may effect a cure. If you are only getting a small variation in rpm I would suggest living with it if the suggested does not effect a cure. It is not stalling and not effecting the way it drives. The car is over 20 years old and many of the components may have worn away from ideal.

I suspect the Android head unit has an amplifier in it and speaker output connectors. If this is the case the amplifier under the seat needs to be disconnected and the speaker connections run to the output of the head unit.

A 2017 car is a Mk 3 so I would guess it would not fit. You should look for a 2004 to 2013 power steering system.