rbhelle

Since the bolt is cut, no need to tale flange off. Just remember the flange with screws when assembly of gearbox. It might be a PITA to align the box on to the engine, so after struggle you dont want to do it again of you forgot the adapter 😀 The tool I used is a special vw tool, but you find it on ebay. Its just a f...long hex 5 bitpipe with 1/2" connection. A long 1/4" extension will suffice with a 1/4" hex 5 bitpipe attached to the end.

might find some advice here as well

there is a bolt on the right side of the gearbox. It is the only bolt on that side directly into the gearbox. All others are form the left side (passenger side) You have found the one I am talking about?

But why havent you removed the dpf? It gives a whole lot more room to work in back there. Personally, I hate working in tight spaces, so removing the dpf is mandatory for me just to save some space and time. But yeah, I admit, nothing is nice on those engines with 4x4 and dpf....

You might need to remove the flange. If not just leave as is and deal with it when gearbox is down. Depends on 2 types of different brackets used on these engines. If need to take flange out: Use a 450mm long hex pipe, I believe it is a hex 5. Could also use a 1/4" very long extension with a hex 5 bit attached. When bolt is loose, use a pry bar to get the flange out. If not doable, use a slidehammer and a 3 arm pulley. That should knock it out. But, remember to drain axle fluid first or else you make a mess. But if doable, just cut off the bolt and replace with a shorter one when assemblytime. I just did this myself. Disregard bold text: To reach the most inner 16mm bolt on the bracket, a round head long 140mm hex 8 is the tool you need. No other hex tools will fot to get the bracket loose. You might have to undo the turbo oil pipe as well with a 27mm open end spanner to gain access. And now you know why this job on a 4x4 tdi cr is priced the way they are... Hope you took down the subframe. No other way to get a 4x4 engine gearbox down without removing it (imho). And if you dont have subframe guiding pins, you will likely need to get a wheel alignment as well.

Rear 4x4 is like this in general terms. I presume most diy do not have a lpt of special tools, like spring compressors for in-situ use. I use in-situ spring compressors for McPherson, it saves some time, but are optional. Anyway I would attack it like this? When car on ground, loosen the axle nut by 1/2 turn. Makes it easier to remove later. Jack up car and remove tire. If manual hand break, release cable from brake caliper assembly. Stick a screwdriver into brake disc from outside caliper to lock it from moving and use a 24mm 12-point socket with a breaker bar to loosen the axle nut. Push axle nut towards rear diff in order to get the drive knuckle out a bit. If it doesnt move at all, well, to tap with hammer on nut to loosen it. Remove caliper with 13mm and 15mm wrench. Use as counterhold. Now, hang up calipers from chassis with some straps etc. Remove Pads. Now, next is to remove the spring. There is no way to move the axle without out from wheel bearing house without removal of spring. You need to loosen the lower controlarm bolt so the knuckle can be adjusted enough to get the drive axle out from wheel bearing. Well, use a car jack to support the lower control arm and jack it up a bit to remove the bolt and nut on the knuckle. I think this is 18mm 6 point bolt and nut. If you have impact it will be easier. When removed, slowly release car jack until spring tension is released and the whole spring can be removed. Now take out the drive axle from the wheel bearing. The rest is more or less the same as front wheel bearing. 4x xzn 12 bolts from the inside of the knuckle. Use short xzn bits, especially the upper left one is tight, the rest habe good space. Clean up and reinstall in reverse order.

Well, if you have 4x4 they will be pretty like. Is it a 4x4 you got?

Dmf is a funny thing, because rattling sounds doesn't need to be bad since one can drive many years and thousands of miles with bad dmf. But one can also just drive a couple of thousands miles to total failure. It really depends on how much load you put into your car. E.g.with trailer it can be much sooner, without maybe last long time. Rattling is usually more noticeable when engine is cold and when idling. When hot and under load, not so much, yeah even no rattling at all. A really bad dmf will certainly most likely give vibrations also when driving, but then we are talking close to total failure and likely gearbox damage. Anti-roll bar link/Swaybar drop link/Stabilizer link arm (with ball joint in both ends) is not included in a strut no. The suspension strut is just one part of many that makes a car safe and driveable. Suspension strut absorbs humps on road, the spring keeps the car at a certain ride height and of course helps the strut to regain "conciousness" after hammering against the road so to say. On top of the strut is a strut top mount bearing. This is to compensate for grinding and sounds from strut to chassis. Stabilizer I think it is called anti-roll bar/swaybar droplink. In your car that is the link with ball joint ends and one ball joint is mounted on the swaybar itself (stabilizer from one side to another) and the other ball joint is mounted directly on the suspension strut. Springs, probably no need to replace, but do check for cracks and broken pieces. Also rust. But springs tend to be ok until they crack or brake into 2 pieces or more. I did my struts without replacing springs, since they were good (compared them with a new set that I had) Dsg thermostat is often a forgotten treasure. When engine comes up to temp as normal, but drops 30-40 degrees when not under load, its often dsg thermostat that is the issue and not the engine thermostat. People tend to replace engine thermostat and still has same issues. Engine thermostat is a pricey job vs dsg thermostat is like 15min job. You can actually check the dsg thermostat in your kitchen. Just take it out and let water run through it. If it is broken, water will run straight through, if working, water will not run through (well, will be restricted flow if you know what I mean).

Assessment approved 🙂 Thought about one thing. Your car, does it have webasto? They are known to leak from time to time. Especially the v55 pump, but also from the housing itself. Worth checking out.

Thats a preventive habit Tasman. Not always wifey is agreed in this household 😀 Thats a preventive habit Tasman. Not always wifey is agreed in this household 😀

Oh, yes, and regen will not start before coolant temp is above 70 degrees. So If fans start wild chase 30sec after start up with cold car in -25 degrees, that is a bit odd. Don't think that is because of regen, but I am not an expert, just writing what I have been told by mechanics and other more dpf competent people... My car also rise the engine speed from 750-800 rpm at cold start up to 1000-1050 rpm after just a couple of minutes. it could be the engine speed rising due to alternator charging battery. I think that is the case, since i scan my car with vcds and regularly do a forced regen. i know that my cars dpf is way inside specs when it comes to soot levels. So, have noticed the increase in engine rpms myself. I think it is normal. Been like that for 2 years.

Not that I am aware of. If, you by any chance have the fans go all wild every trip and for a prolonged time after shutting down the car, I would actually get it checked since regen doesnt/shouldnt happen that often. maybe a relay or some electric connection is bad.

When a forced regen is taking place, you can monitor the engine temp exhaust gas temp nr 1, 3 and 4. And there you wil se that they will likely be constant above 550 degrees and sometimes up to 750 degrees when driving your normal long trip route in 80-90km/h. When forced regen is finished, the temps normalizes again and you will seldom see temps above 400 degrees when doing the same route in the same distance doing 80-90km/h.

Yes, car will start even if a regen was interrupted last shut down. it will continue next start until finished. But if you keep interrupting, well, then it will get clogged in the end. If you have access to vcds, it might be smart to do a forced regen while driving. it takes about 30min and you have to drive at good speed, I would say above 80 and preferable with engine load. So find yourself a route with relative flat driving conditions or a 20-30min slope where you are able to keep the pedal more on the plus side than on the idle side 🙂 As I could remember from my several trips along E8 in northern part of Finland, there should be plenty of space to really get the engine running in maybe not so legal speeds all the time....;-)

Have replaced all wheel bearing on my 2011 superb 4x4. None of them showed any tear and wear except sound that gradually increased with speed and when turning. But in the end especially the right rear bearing made increasingly louder noises also when driving straight. You will likely hear difference between tires and worn wheel bearing. But it is not stupid to check your tires, just to exlude that from the quotation. First bearing to be replaced was front right (driver side for UK drivers). That was done april 2023 at 187 000km. This year I did the last three. First the rear right side due to sound. No slack, no visual defaults, but it was bad. This was done i march this year. So, during a trip in october i noticed a slight sound again, and now it was the rear left bearing. No visual og slack there as well, but when diassembled, it was bad yeah. And just to be done with it, I also did the last front left side bearing. It is likely that when one starts to wear, well the others will follow. Could be in weeks or could be in years...but, since I am not very fond of have tese things happen during trips or vacation, well I do them as fast as I can or have time to do before vacation time. Have to say that during our vacations or trips, we travel maybe 1000-3000 miles (norway, sweden, finland) and I will not sit through 2000 miles listen to a bad wheel bearing if I can avoid it. Since I have a 4x4, it is more time consuming doing rear than the front and some tools are neccessary ( Have my own garage with **** load of car tools and a lifter). I use maybe 1-1,5 hours to do one rear side since there is a lot of cleaning up inside the wheel hub (iron vs aluminium do corrode as ****) and sometimes I have to use a slide hammer to get the bearing separated from wheel hb. Removal of front side wheel bearing If left side, use a 10mm spanner to remove the light sensor height adjustment installation. It is 2 10mm bolts/screws. No such thing on the right front side. Front bearing are very easy DIY. Remove the caliper with hex/allen pipe no 6 or 7 I think. Use 21mm pipe to take out the caliper hanger, use T30 and undo the screw on the brake disc and remove. (do not let the caliper hang by the brake pipe, use something to fasten it to the spring. Loosen 3 bolts on lower control arm 16mm nuts, loosen the axle bolt with a 32mm 12-point pipe, loosen the track rod 18mm nut (steering rod ball joint) and take out the outer drive shaft joint. No need to do anything with the inner 6 xzn bolts. Then you have access to the 4 xzn M12 bolts on the inside of the bearing. Take a hammer and give the bearing some knocks around to get it loose. Take out whole assembly. Next, clean up the wheel hub with a flathead screwdriver and maybe a drill with steel brushes. Clean everything, but be careful against the ABS speed sensor inside the hub. Well, install bearing and torque to specs. 4 xzn screws on bearing 70nm+90 degrees 1 18mm nut on track rod ball joint 20nm+90 degrees 3 16mm nuts on lower control arm ball joint/svivel joint 60nm (or 100nm if aluminium/steel sheet) Axle nut 200nm+180 degrees 2 caliper hanger bolts 21mm (or was it 18mm?) 190nm. If you dont have a caliper hanger, then dont worry about this point. 2 slide bolts for caliper 30nm Finished.

If I would buy just one "for them all", I would go either Icarsoft CR Max or Topdon Artidiag BT800. But if only VAG cars, then it is just one that is superb and also supported; VCDS Hex-V2 or Hex-NET. It all comes down to how much you will use a top notch scan tool and how serious a DIY you are/will become. My personal opinion is, that anyone and I mean anyone, that will drive a VAG product, even only for a couple of years (vehicle outside warranty) MUST aquire VCDS (3, 10 or Unlimited VINS). They are not expensive at all. Maybe 3-500 GBP.

Clock spring.

Like J.R. says. Get the car scanned with vcds or similar. Now, to help it is more likely to shoot in the dark in the matter of "probable causes". But there are several likely connections that could have come loose or something like that in terms of what could be your issue. So, get it scanned and request the workshop that did the work relapse "did we connect or possible destroy any connections during repair..."

Well, if all is working until now, I guess you have it pretty on spot. It is more likely you tightened a bit above specs than too low. I see that if I use "feeling" I always tighten things above rather than under 🙂 I tightened mine to 60nm + 90 degrees, because that was what I remembered. But those numbers where for my Golf and not my Superb. Superb should have 100nm+180 degrees. But, no issues so far 🙂

Disregard, new info as follows: 3 ball joint nuts: 100nm (no degrees, but replace with new) Rear and front bolts control arm: 70nm+180 degrees (renew both)

Well, full winter in norway now. Heated rear window cable fix holding up.

60nm +90degrees on 3 nuts for balljoint. 90nm on lower rear controlarm+90degrees and 70nm+90 degrees on the front 2 bolts. All bolts should be renewed. Nuts no need to replace.

And no, vcds wont help you with what you want, need to go to a tuner that can reprogram your ecu.

You need to get a tuner to do it, but why ? If you just remove them without coding away egr at the same time it will make your car run like **** and likely give you lots of fault codes. Better to clean flaps and maybe take precautions to avoid P2015 fault code. Search youtube and see the brilliant stop device the dieselgeek has. But mechanical cleaning first and then the dieselgeek stop.

Depends on driving conditions. Lots of small town driving will enforce more regens. Lots of long distance driving, not so much. But do tale it serious because if ignored, the dpf will eventually be to clogged and even service regen or forced regen wont help. Then it is replacement of mechanical cleaning.