crankcase

My understanding is that "honk and flash" isn't in the app unless your Enyaq is on software version 5. Mine is on 4 and I don't have it. To be honest I did have it on my old Skoda Superb, but I never used it. It's certainly not something I'd risk the potential pain of updating to version 5 for.

Traffic sign recognition is a bit shonky in my experience anyway. My 2020 L&K will often pass an NSL and declare it a 30, applying the brakes, for example. Sometimes you're bowling along and there's no signs at all, and it suddenly decides it's a 30. On go the brakes. The internal Skoda map (Here maps) or TomTom,Waze or Google maps don't think that bit is a 30. I complained at the dealer, they lent me a courtesy VW with the same system so they could "apply a software update", which made no difference. The VW I borrowed did exactly the same at exactly the same places.

No problem, easily done. Glad you found what you needed. I've not done it, but in "My profile" you can "add a car", so I would think you could add the Octavia too.

It is, isn't it? The digital certificate pdf download under "inspect" in the app shows all my services, including my dsg oil change and various warranty and non warranty bits too.

Ah well, turns out I'm an idiot. My UK 2020L&K iV DOES in fact have a speed limiter as well as ACC, should, for posterity, anybody need to know. All on page 120 of the manual. The only reading material in the car while waiting for the Mrs to finish shopping.

I'm not sure this is helpful, but may be worth checking. For various reasons I took out the Skoda extended warranty, rather than the all in package. I seem to recall that in some manner the separate extended warranty I have offers slightly better cover than the all in, though the details escape me now. Have a check of both sets of cover terms before deciding perhaps. They may now be in sync, or they may not

UK for me, if that helps.

I have a 2020L&K iV, with ACC, and unless I've missed something in the last four years, it doesn't have a speed limiter.

I'd say that's a no, sorry. But if you can get a test drive if one from a seller or know someone nearby that has one you could try. Where are you?

The car I think is 4869 mm. Mine is plugged in at the minute, so I went and measured. The flap open and the handle of the cable adds 160mm past the very front, making a total of 5029mm; longer than your box. And even that would mean bending the cable more than I'd be happy with anyway. I reckon no, it won't fit unless you make a hole for the flap and cable. Maybe your box is actually a bit bigger than 5m? You need a minimum of 3cm more I would think.

Capacitive steering wheel is certainly on my 2020 L&K. If I get the "take over steering" it's because I'm holding the wheel too lightly with one hand or something, and a quick squeeze of the fingers stops the alert. No moving the wheel. Maybe OP has dry fingers. My Mrs has, anything that needs touch, like the oven hob or a phone often doesn't respond for her but works perfectly for me.

Well, just in case anyone cares, some digging. It was originally turned on or off via the phone. Then everyone's Android phones got updated, and Google hid the wireless Android Auto toggle away, in Developer options. Then they updated Android again, and the toggle has gone completely. So no, if it's on, you can't just turn it off, and it's not and never was in the car menus. That might save someone prodding about endlessly, as I did.

Well that's a blow. I know I actively enabled it, so it seems bizarre that doing so removes the toggle I used to do it, wherever that might have been. Ah well.

My 2020 IV phev doesn't, according to the spec, support wireless Android Auto. However, at some point, I managed to enable it anyway, and it worked. Recently it's stopped working properly, so I want to disable it again. But I can't find where I turned it on in the first place to turn it off again. Anyone know where the option is in the car menus? I must have gone through all of them a million times. I guess I could unpair the phone and see if that works if I have to; I'd rather someone was able to say "it's in settings, press tyre pressures seven times and open the boot, it's easy, dumbo" or whatever.

In the main screen there is a section called something like "My vehicle". It shows a picture of the whole car. I noticed recently, I think, that if you have the picture displayed when driving (who would?) then it shows the brake lights coming on and off as you go along. Might help you see if they are triggering on the move.

The ACC on my auto does indeed slow for roundabouts and junctions. If you have the satnav programmed, it also slows for any right or left turns from the main road, and indeed when I reach my drive. All good, except it is SO cautious that you can't really use it if there's anyone behind you. It's very very very slow. So I often have to use the throttle to actually travel at a sensible speed round a roundabout anyway. Maybe later ones are better? Mines a 2020. As to the auto question, personally I went auto about thirty years ago or more, never looked back. On the odd occasion I've driven a manual since I've hated it within twenty yards.

Might be vaguely helpful. Launch the MySkoda app or go to the website . Go to "inspect", then "car details" and at the bottom there's "download a digital certificate". It shows lots of stuff, including services. It also shows other work, and parts for non service work. My certificate runs to ten pages. So I even know I had some "quantum mix water" at one point. That's cheering at least.

Interesting, that. My figures are higher, but then I've only ever pressed the sport button once, and the Mrs complained it was all too whooshy. I have mine set in a combo of eco and normal under the individual DCC setting.

I have a IV Your journey is 80 miles between recharges. In summer, I'd get perhaps 33 pure electric, in winter perhaps 27. Call it 30 miles on average pure EV. The remaining 50 I'd expect get about another perhaps 5 pure EV, as it recharges a tiny bit for every corner, slowdown, braking. So you have to find about 45 miles worth of petrol and 30 miles worth of paid for electricity for your journey, if that helps. Alternatively, the lowest mpg I ever get is about 55mpg overall on a 740 mile run, there and back, so only fully charged at the start. The other 95% of the time I get from perhaps 65 to 120mpg reported if petrol gets used, depending on whether I'm going 50 miles or 100. Lot of blah, there. Summary: reckon at worst you'll get 55mpg plus for your commute, depending on your driving style and actual route. You might see the low sixties easily, and if you are lucky and try, low seventies.

For me my maps are updated automatically over the air and are never more than three months old. The speed issue in the same places has been happening for years.

It'll be no help, but my 2020 does that too. There are specific places it always gets wrong. Two of those places happen to be on the route to the dealer. At one point the dealer was working on my Superb and gave me a courtesy VW to get home. It also "knew" the speeds, and it also got it wrong in exactly the same places by exactly the same amount. Therefore, I thought, it's not the car, it must be the maps. I thought the mapping was provided by Here maps. I created an account with Here allowing me to see and edit their speed limits. The speed limits at these points are correct. Therefore, I thought, it's not the maps...

Plug in. Look at light next to plug. Starts yellow. If it stays yellow, it's not communicating with the charger yet. Wait. If it then goes red, you have a problem, try unplugging and check you haven't got a bee or something stuck in your plug. Otherwise: If it goes flashing green, you are connected but there's a timer in place and it's waiting. If it goes solid green, you're charging. If it doesn't go on at all, buy a new car/cable/charger.

If it fails closed, then the car should start. You just wouldn't be able to charge it, but at least we have petrol as a backup!

Mine failed and was done under extended warranty. The dealer (probably mistakenly) gave me the invoice, made out to Skoda. It was for about £75, parts and labour, so I guess that's what Skoda are prepared to pay for the job if they are footing the bill. Mine failed open, so the car wouldn't start. For a week or two I resorted to the Mrs holding in the actuator pin until the car was started. After that it ran fine, with the charging flap open, until the next time. If I had been on my own at some point I'd have had to ask a random stranger to push in my pin, and that might not have gone well.

Had mine done at the local main dealer last month, as I was on 38500. £270 all in. I knew they wouldn't have a slot for weeks; booked it when I was at 36000, so it all worked out. Wouldn't liked to have waited until 41000 to even book it though. Might have affected the warranty I guess.