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I will read your links, and I am also looking, but clear evidence is not easy to find.... While this might make sense, I am not sure how it translates into reality ... if there is sufficient oil pressure circulating through the engine, then the oil will get everywhere it needs to, it is not that it becomes jelly that blocks the oilways 😄 Also, I am looking for charts confirming how viscosity differs between a '30' and a '40' grade oil at 100deg C and it seems to be less than what would worry... but perhaps would be better to have it on a separate discussion. These are also very interesting considerations ... is it better mechanically? perhaps yes, but as you say, you will send the car away so "who cares". I am not picking on you, but this is another subject, that I cannot easily explain ... most cars in my geographical location are well-lived, therefore any shortcomings in earlier maintenance, or follies such as 20-30k km intervals, come to fruition "here", where everything starts to fall apart ... 😄😁 And while the old adage of the increased wear on start-up is valid, it is also true we are no longer talking about 1 5W or 20W dino oil ... we are talking modern lubricants on modern vehicles. Most of the damage, maybe more "carnage" is the adequate word, that I get to see or heard around here comes from cooked oil, stuck/damaged pistons rings, destroyed oil pumps, stretched chains and/or broken/defective tensioners, scored camshafts, bearings, and so on ... in all cases, no matter the reason, old/overworked lubricant is always present as a main culprit ...

Certainly, each speaks from its experience, and having the location listed in the profile is what helps assess from where comes said experience. However, since I have become "suspicious" since a few years now on the subject, I keep a wary approach and tend to inquiry over the subject considering other aspects not only location-climate wise. For example, for the wifemobile (CT200h) a 0W-20 given (car is European-spec), but my mechanic (ex-Toyota, now indi, and a very serious person I know since years) showed me the maintenance tables for the same car in Russia, for which a 5W-30 is given.... and there would be a general "colder" climate, so should not be the opposite? Our guess is this is because friction and thus emissions, and nobody gives a thought about mechanical longevity, since this is not but the owner's problem .... And we have held extensive discussions on the subject, and after a few engines dismantled for the most various reasons, every 1.8 engine has the same internals, except for a camshaft redesign. Yet Toyota has shifted over the years from 5W-30 to 0W-30 to 0W-20 to 0W-16 .... the change cannot obey technical reasons if the mechanicals are unchanged, no? A mate of mine has a Wrangler JK, with the 3.6 Pentastar. Car is GCC-spec, came from Saudi. Given lubricant spec is 0W-20, while here in Bulgaria is given 5W-30. Obviously he refuses to utilize 0W-20 and is instead using 5W-30, but again, you would have though only based on climate/location, the other way around? Sorry about the long post, I consider the matter fascinating, if not worrisome because it is out money at stake when something goes wrong, not the manufacturer's ....

Might be overkill a LL oil for short-intervals, but if it suits you, why now. I cannot comment on the brand, as is not in use here (dealer uses OE or Castrol). Very good observation I forgot to mention ... this spec recommends only LL oils, and only in up to the '30' hot viscosity grade, for example for mine 2021 is a 0W-30. I have seen earlier norm (502 for petrol) available also in non-LL and above '30' grade.

For your DNF engine you should stick to low SAPS, as indicated. There are oils falling in the same category, but not VW "approved", which is a matter of commercial convinience between the two manufacturers - car and lubricant - not a guarantee of anything better than the rest..... I do short intervals so I moved away from LL or FE lubricants. I tried also to research extensively on the subject mentioned by Occy about the "different" or "optimized" oil pumps, but I cannot find true and proven information yet ... say part number between a CJXA and a DNUA engine has a different suffix ok, so it implies a variation, but VAG is known for using different suffixes wether there is a technical change ... or not. Currently I am using Fuchs Titan on 5W-40, but I know found a shortcut to the local importer of Pakelo and I am would like to try it next. I expect this summer a quiet season, just a couple hwy long trips 1.5k/2k and that's it, so maybe I will hold until the winter and switch back to a 0W option, although it is not recommended. All mechanics and tuners I know are adamant in staying away from 0W oils and long-time intervals, in between oil being cooked as being too little viscous, thinner and lighter piston and oil scrapers which tend to stick or worse "glue" to the pistons themselves, pistons that have become excessively thin and light ... variable speed/pressure oil pumps ... too much "optimization", with sometimes catastrophic results.

What type of "whistle"? In terms of tone? I had a Peugeot turbo whose 'whistling' was more of a moaning, and this was prelude to a failing bearing. No oil leaking or burning. How long since remap-and how aggressive of a remap?

Good to know. Sorry for your woes ....

Variable floor and rear-controlled seat drop from the cargo area were always options that I remember. About the spark plugs, just keep in mind that when I tried to pull the coil, the rubber grommet remained glued "stuck" to the head, which means I am ordering replacement coils to avoid a long stop-time once I start to rip apart the grommet ...

No, if is non-UK import you will have a difficult time, and might need to go part by part. I have played this game, I've had a couple customers/friends who wanted to make their S6s US-style, which means different bumpers, turn signals, rear lamps, and so on ... Expensive game. But you can find things .... I discarded the outer look, I would only want the wood trim but probably will end up making it with film, it like 1k euro because of the ambient lights included in the trim .... I think the DCC shocks are either available with their own part no., or is the same shock as the standard car with a "spacer" to raise the height, like the Cross-Polo. Having the same wheels as the non-Scout model, I think they did not modify any suspension/mechanical drivetrain components. KleinanzeigenSkoda Superb 3T 3V Scout Stoßstange vorn Originalteildiese Stoßstange passt an den Skoda Superb Scout vorn Originalteil ,neues Modell,diese muß nur in...,Skoda Superb 3T 3V Scout Stoßstange vorn Originalteil in Bayern - Kolbermoor KleinanzeigenSkoda Superb 3 Scout ab 2015 Stoßstange hinten 6xPDCLieferumfang : wie abgebildet wie bei allen gebrauchten Teilen üblich, weisen solche nun mal auch...,Skoda Superb 3 Scout ab 2015 Stoßstange hinten 6xPDC in Essen - Essen-Borbeck

That is correct - but I cannot find where it was ... that I took the info from ...

The Scout "trim" are appliques that go over the original parts, I've made this investigation time ago thinking to make a "L&K Scout" hybrid. At most, you could have a couple of holes to drill to fix with clips, but most of the stuff is glue-on, or better say, double-sided tape. I also spent several minutes lurking around a Scout that is always parked around daughter's school. Ultimately, I decided "new" is not worth the price, and the hassle, untless when in time, you will start to see cars at the breakers an you can get parts. Plus components are mostly aesthetics, the only advantage is the over fenders to protect from dings from idiots opening doors too wide in parking lots. Ultimately, the only things really worth are the suspension - I really would benefit from a higher clearance, i often scrape around and I cringe at the sound - and the beautiful "wood" trim inside instead of the ghastly "black piano" plastickly crap ...

Hello and welcome back! Incidentally the W212 was one of the runner-up to the finals for my choice of vehicle, it lost as I was not impressed much by the M276/278 engines and their hosts of problems, and overall the car's interior did not appeal me so much. I did see a couple of E63 which did take my breath away for a while ... but the while did not last long 😁 Straight to your concern, a vario floor could be secured second-hand, but you have to dig around in breakers for a car, as it consists of a lot of parts, not just the horizontal planks, you have to get also the sides. Now, depending on your need to move the thing around, and your manual skills, one option could be to cut to size planks of wood - can be stull like MDF, I think is called - but since you do not have where to "hang them", you need to self-support them with blocks or vertical parts. I have many years ago made such contraption for another car, to keep minor items (like tow rope, tools) from bothering in the main cargo area, and out of sight as well. The problem with the Superb's area being so large, you should plan on 2 or three "planks", so you can remove only what is needed. Just throwing ideas in the wind, once you get more focused we can get more refined 😄

I've got 61k km, I am for first replacement of the plugs. Browising around, the problem seems not to be uncommon, just is that is the first time I see it on myself .... will look at alternatives and then resolve, as I dowant to change the plugs. Thanks!

Update on the spark plugs' saga ... the other day I had a couple hours free, and two tasks to do ... I decided for the - apparently - faster one, to remove one coil and spark plug so I can order whatever is mounted there, as "online" I cannot guess the right type. Everything was fine and by the book until I pull the coil and "plop" comes only a short piece, and I see some rubber seal remains in the engine. I managed after some reading and viewing online, that this is when the rubber plug "detaches" from the coil itself, and it seems a pain to remove when stuck to the metal, and nevermind if it starts to disintegrate. So the easy half an hour job turned into a "non job", or a recipe for disaster ... I had other tasks awaiting, after trying other two coils and no joy, I closed everything and posponed the matter. Since I cannot trust I will be able to remove anything without permanent damage, I am thinking to upgrade directly to a better coil, any suggestions? APR? True that one of this costs as the full set of the OE ones, there must be a reason. PS: instead I made a brake liquid replace and bleed to the motorbike, and I went riding instead! 😁😄

Cheers for the new opportunity in life! 😉 And I see you are looking for someone here to take the blame in front of your Dad! 😁 Just kidding ... hope all works out well!

And they will point the finger at the Accounting department and say "Ask there!". And then you'll go there and find some dork that saved VW AG like 1 cent per car sold by not allowing this feature, and he was rewarded with BS titles like "Employee of the week" or similar ... 😁 Such is the world we live in. BTW, my ex Range Rover P38 had dip in reverse BOTH mirrors ... feature available since 1994, oh well. It would be interesting to see if other higher lineage flagships such as the Arteon or the Lord of the Rings variety have the options of both mirrors dipping.

You wanna make him drive uphill in reverse at 60kph ? 😄😆

I will try to remember next time I take the beast out, but I will need to remember: perhaps out of my mechanical upbringing, I cannot bear myself to drive at such low regime of engine speed in a very high gear.... it is a noticeable strain in the various mechanical components, regardless of what is written in the brochure. I seldom drive after 3rd and upwards below 1500 RPM, hence why I dislike all DSG driving modes and lately I have taken it up to drive in manual mode all the time 😒

You have actually stated what I think will be my course of action ... the Elite comes with lifetime update, and with the bundle with the 'triad' VAG-BMW-Mercedes (He needs it for his Mom's MB) comes at a fairly reasonable 190 euro. I will snatch it from him once it comes and will try to do the usual stuff, and try to code/recode/adapt some stuff I've done already with VCDS - safe stuff of course 😁 If it works, I will donate to his cause. Will come back to report of course, this will be in some couple weeks, I am actually very curious myself ... Thanks for the attention to the subject!

Wow thanks extensive answers. I did not know there were so many variants (after all I've used only VCDS really) but here is the article that illustrates it: https://www.x431shop.eu/service/what-is-the-difference-between-launch-creader-elite-2.0-and-other-launch-creader-tools.html For me, I do have VCDS and I have made most of the possible coding/adaptations is so far as is possible within the SIII FL capabilities, which are less than on earlier models. Unless I get a Citgo/Up as a runaround, I do not see any other use for a VAG-specific tool, and if my mates' tool is suitable enough, I could ditch the VCDS and associated laptop need, nevermind its much unpleasant 3-10-unlimited VIN policy (I understand their reasons, but still do not accept them). Finally, trying to overcome what I thought it was limited access from VCDS to my Superb, I got myself an OBD11 as well, and honestly I did not gain anything at all. Everything that VCDS can do, same - unless you pay, and I do not like the subscription scheme. Plus it is even more cumbersome to me because of the phone, app, and BT, I always lose connection, does not work with the other three cars in the family ... so it was a futile exercise. My idea was, if proven, to adopt this unit as occasion arises (DTCs, some coding, etc.) and get rid of all the rest, I do not need all the paraphernalia for just one car ...

Has anyone used on a FL, with success, a Launch C-reader Elite?

A friend is getting a Launch C-reader Elite which has a bundle package that includes the VAG brands. Does anyone knows if this is appliable to a Superb III FL at the level of VCDS/OBD11 for what regards coding and adaptations? Thanks!

Are you going to do it, or give it to a service to make it? If the latter, I would look for n autorized Webasto dealer/center.

Oh nice, another DNFE in Bulgaria ... Unfortunately, if your car still in warranty you are at the mercy of the dealer, and these silly extended intervals which I would never trust. While true materials - especially lubricants - have greatly improved over the part couple decades, you cannot fight against the laws of internal combustion which have been in place for over a century now ... This is my take on the "recommended" intervals, supported by a loooot of looooong conversations with almost every type of car repair center I know of, both here an abroad, wether technical, engine drivetrain, electrical, you name it. Engine oil + oil filter ---> 8 to 10k km (5 to 6k mil) or no more than 1/1.5 years. Shorteed if you use it like oyu should. You can buy the original filters and make an interim change yourself, no way I am going to stick to 25-30k km. Air filter ---> 8 to 10k km (5 to 6k mil) or no more than 1/1.5 years. But this is me - depends greatly on where you are. Here is very dusty and dirty, so filters don't last. Saloon filter ---> every season change, sometimes 2 per year. I am allergic to various substances and same for family and their troubles, so I rather be safe than sorry. Haldex oil (there is no filter) ---> 20 000 km (12 000 miles) or 2 years + clearing the net (suction cup/strainer)! Correct, I've had mine made in the dealer at 40k it was never done, and I doubt the cleaned the strainer - will do it myself. Service inspection ---> 30 000 km (18 000 miles) or 2 years - this is for warranty... you do it more often! :-) DSG oil ---> 60 000 km (~37 000 miles) DSG filter (it is fitted within the gearbox) ---> I will change it during clutch replacement Correct for 60K km, filter can be replaced. I would say "change dealer" but this is not an option in Bulgaria 😄 Depending on your mileage, try to survive the end of the warranty then take it to a proper specialized auto trans service shop. Differential oils (front and rear)---> 60 000 km (~37 000 miles) - I haven't done this yet. For a FWD/AWD car this is fairly reasonable mileage. I am also to do this. Engine belt/chain ---> 150 000 km (~93 000 miles) - I haven't done this yet. Sounds good, what are the thoughts of Briskodians with higher mileage TFSIs? Brake fluid ---> 2 years Correct. Spark plugs ---> 60 000 km (~37 000 miles) Correct. I am due now. Coolant ---> ??? Discussing with official dealer and non-official sources I was quoted a 4 to 5 year interval. I've done mine, not full flush but say 3/4 at 4.5y from new, and 55k km. Aux belts ---> variable. I am now doing minor work on my runabout and checked the its two short manually tensioned belts, and they look very good after 4 years and 32k km. So I think 60K for inspection whould be ok, or say 5/6 years and replace - they are rubber based after all. I would also add to: - remove and re-grease regularly the caliper pin/sliders, they make wonders for the braking system. - inspect shocks for misting - inspect rear door struts for misting - when tow ball is mounted, inspect hinge/fold mechanism and grease ball if necessary

I have the same issues as above listed, so might be that these are a "feature" and not a "defect" 😁 I play music only from yhe USB stick, set to 'mass storage'. Sometimes it resumes where it left, most times - especially after overnight - starts again from the beginning, so it must have some timer-out thing .... I also noticed for the order, the priority seems to be the 'Track info' tag in the music file, and only second the filename itself. On a stick that I made quick and dirty it shows how it is uncordinated, in another one I did proper ripping my old CDs (looong and tedious process) the tracks are listed proper following the file tag information.

Niice! What kit did you order? I am also thinking about the matter and would not hurt to start to get ready ....