OccyVRS

One less thing to worry about. I did test everything with a multimeter when I put it in last year, but this thread had me double checking 😂

Update - turns out the fuse slot I used only has one connector, I.E. only the hot side is populated. The dash cam is grounded externally, and it’s been working for a year. In my head this makes sense, as the power goes in, to the dash cam, and it’s grounded elsewhere. The cold/load side (that isn’t there) is only for the original thing, which I don’t have?

Yeah, but as I said there is a lack of a suitable slots - My thinking (that seems correct) is that the direction of the fuse tap is entirely irrelevant if there is only one circuit going through it (in my case, the dash cam). I could probably squeeze it tail down, but thinking about it from a basic electrical standpoint, I don't see what difference it will make - sure, the dash cam will then run through both 2A fuses, but that's pointless. There is a difference in what is correct versus what works. Frankly, you could run it the wrong way off the wiper fuse and be absolutely fine. Worst case you somehow blow the 10A fuse, oh no, you've lost the rear wiper as well as the dash cam... I think I'd rather mess with that, than something important.

I don't remember the last time I really paid attention to the fuel gauge, let alone the estimated mileage. That's not because I have a super thirsty monstrous Octavia, but more because I haven't owned or been in a VAG car in the last decade that has an accurate fuel gauge. My old Leon was worse - it would be full for up to 150 miles (I kid you not), and then would plummet to 1/3 of a tank over the next 100, before then lasting 50 miles on the final bar. My Octavia seems a bit better, but still naff, while the other SEAT item and Audis have been/are all the same. That said, none of the BMW's we've had, or my Focus, have been much better. A SEAT tech told me If the car is filled up with the ignition on, that can really mess it up, but beyond that they're just a bit crap. Certainly, the estimated mileage is pure guesswork.

A) It was an empty slot B) I have a big relay connector just below the tap, so anything in the lower slots (F46/47/48) won't work. The rest of suitable positions either have no connection at all, or only connection for one blade. There are a couple, but they're like F12 or F27 - vehicle electrical system - too important to mess around with IMO.

On some cars/colours they work. Just like silver on silver, black on black looks awful (unless it's a Chiron Supersport, Koenigsegg, etc)

Oh... I think the bright silver looks very clean! The black gives me 'dirty 130' and 'Kill All Wipers' vibes. Not my cup or tea, but nice intercooler.

Yes, so in my case it doesn't matter which way the tail is going (up or down), as I have no original circuit to worry about fusing? Am I correct in saying that if my piggy back was orientated correctly, then I wouldn't even need the 'original' fuse, but could just use the 2A dash cam fuse? In my case, I believe it is incorrectly installed (goes down as I don't have the space), but as it's going through the 'original' 2A fuse I inserted (in addition to the dash cam fuse already installed) in the piggy back, there's no issue? TLDR - I used an empty slot, the tail is pointing up, but both fuses in the piggy back are 2A rated. Whether it's going through one fuse or both, doesn't really matter?

Yes, but what's the issue with this? If I am using a empty slot, and insert a second 2A fuse into the piggy back, then the current is either going through just the 2A accessory fuse, or is going through the 2A accessory fuse and the 2A 'original' fuse - no harm no foul, unless I'm missing something. I agree, if you're using a populated slot then that's not the best thing ever, as you're putting two things through the original fuse and the two aren't protected seperately. However in my case, with an empty slot, it doesn't make a difference, as there's only one circuit (which is protected)?

if you're comparing a 1.5 to a 2.0 then performance isn't on the top of your list (I assume). All this 'power gets out of trouble' is rubbish - it gets you out of trouble until 245ps pulls you into a tree! The real reason for having a bit more power is that overtaking/pulling out becomes a little easier and, crucially, when the car is loaded, you're still able to move along happily. My 1.4 Leon FR was brilliant when empty, but put a passenger and fill the back up and she struggled a bit!

They should - same setup as the vRS, GTI, Cupra and, until the latest models, the S3 and R. They all have 17s as the minimum size. Bear in mind in the EU, cars must have winter tyres and these tyres must be marked accordingly. If you're only interested in ticking the box, a set of 17" steelies might be what you're after - they're dirt cheap and won't suffer from corrosion.

After spending a year with my 2020 Octavia, I've decided it's time to ditch the annoying CarPlay cable. I can't route it properly and it seems unhappy with working all the time anyway. I am looking at this - Quad Lock® UKCar - Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto AdaptorConnect to Apple CarPlay or Android Auto cord-free with the Quad Lock® Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto Adaptor. EASY TO SET UP Simply plug the Wireless CarPlay/Android Auto Adaptor into your car’s US... It's made by a decently-known company called Ottocast and then rebranded by QuadLock (info found on compliance document), with UK certification, etc. I'd like something small so I don't need to run a cable to an adapter, and the only similar item was from Carista on Amazon (Ultra Mini here) but it apparently has overheating issues - not something I'm really keen on. Take away the cable and box adapters, and you're left with quite a small amount of products. I know this is paying for the brand, but Ottocast seems decent, and if it's certified by QuadLcok (whoI can shout at over email) then that has to be a good thing? I've had a bad experience in the past, so am very cautious! Any other suggestions or experiences? I know this has been posted many times, but in such a fast moving market, it seemed a good idea to start another topic.

Yes - if you're piggybacking off of an existing fuse then 100% this matters. If it's 10A or over it's unlikely to make much difference, but you are indeed running the accessory (camera) and original component through the original fuse. In my case, as I said, it doesn't really matter, as I used a blank slot. Anywhere there is an airbag, I put wiring along an existing loom. For the dash cam, I used cloth tape to affix the camera cable, firmly, to the existing loom.

Ah, mine goes up - I’ll double check tomorrow. It’s been over a year and it won’t actually go the other way. That said, as it’s an empty slot, it doesn’t make any difference. Glove box is fiddly but it’s not difficult - removing the pillar trim, on the other hand, is one of the worst things I’ve ever done! That said - do be careful it’s properly done. I would personally take the trim off, use cloth tape and secure it properly to the existing loom. It’s not a real issue for the airbag - it goes straight through the pillar trim so a USB cable isn’t going to stop it. The issue (IMO) is more that it’s not the thinnest cable in the world, and you don’t want the frayed end being whipped at you when the airbag deploys. Similar principle to the muppets that put phone mounts/hard stuff on the dash/steering wheel. There’s a reason all that stuff is thin or soft plastic!

Oh, no, I completely agree. If it were me I’d maybe look at new wheels, but that’s a completely different thing to a 13 year old diesel estate. A simple, cheap refurb is likely all that’s needed - I meant it as in, no need to go crazy with powder coating, diamond cutting or whatever else places offer.

Depends what OP is wanting. If it's a quick fix then that'll be fine, however if there's corrosion on all four wheels, it might be smart to do a proper job with it. I'd probably just get them cheaply refurbed and move on.

I somehow managed to reply to the linked topic - whoops. In my Occy, I've used F48 - the lane change assist. It's just one to the right of the rear wiper. I don't have lane change in my car, so I simply put another 2A fuse in the piggyback slot, and then put it in. It's engine operated. I like it as if it blows, I won't mess with anything pre existing in the car. It's also nice as the direction of the tap then doesn't matter (useful when there's a big relay connector right below it, so the tap only fits in one way anyway). Here's a thread with a photo of my mirror housing, after 20 minutes with the Dremel - I'm a bit OCD and like everything being perfect https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532849-2019-mk-3-octavia-glove-box/#comment-5951130 Happy to send you over a photo of how I did things nice and neatly in the fuse box - I need to open it up to change the cabin filter and check the fuse tap anyway. I also covered the entire dash cam cable in cloth tape - I didn't do it in my last car, and with the airbag in the a-pillar, I figured it might be nice to avoid any vibration/friction.

Reminds me to check mine. Maybe I'll do it tomorrow when I change the cabin filter. My fuse tap will only fit the one way anyway, due to a larger fuse below. I'm only really checking for curiosity - it's been working fine for over a year in all conditions and loads.

I had to have my Occy with the digi dash as I really hated how the gauges looked. Everything 2020 onwards (mine is a very late previous gen Octavia) doesn't have dials anyway. I personally just leave it as speedo and tacho, with oil temp/ACC in the middle, but RS mode is fun and the maps are cool to play with too. Absolutely zero issues in my ownership - can't really see any disadvantages over traditional gauges, and there's nothing mechanical to go wrong. The fuel gauge is crap, but that's the same in every car I've been in past 2015.

I’ve found the DCC in our Ibiza FR to do literally nothing! At least, I can’t tell a difference - both in terms of comfort and handling. You have to give and get with used cars. This one has everything you want plus more, even if you get manual seats, etc. My vRS sourced by the dealer was the 245 I wanted (DQ381, LSD and bigger brakes) and had the digi dash and ACC (two things I really wanted), but I had to make my peace with 18s, no folding mirrors, etc. You can’t have everything, unfortunately, and the cream seats are like the digi dash on my car - quite a nice and rare option.

Wager is good stuff - glad the guys at The Phirm looked after you. Looking forward to seeing the 2-piece/floating discs! Sounds like it’s time for some suspension stuff now, and maybe some special wheels 😉

Sorry, I was focusing on the 641bhp… Not bad for £65,000. Not sure about it “not having a soul” and all that stuff (I don’t disagree) but it should be quite quick. I’ve just seen a CarWow video of a Kia EV6 (same thing really) smacking a 6.5 V12 Ferrari Purosangue off the line.

One of the issues with manufacturers now only offering features as part of packs. It makes life easier for them and also brings in more money. For example, say you’re looking at a 1 Series and really want a reverse camera. You can’t option that, so you have to get a car with the Technology Plus Pack (not the regular Technology Pack), which is only compatible with M Sport cars. Of course, if you don’t spec it yourself, you’ll find most Technology Plus Pack cars also have other options selected, that increase the cost. All you wanted was a rear camera! That’s BMW (recently just went through it) but Skoda have been doing it for a while - IIRC you could only get DCC with KESSY and Canton, or something along those lines. It makes things cheaper for the manufacturer, while making things more expensive and annoying for the consumer. The combination of this, along with the never ending cycle of shortage of cars with a “decent” spec means you end up with weird cars like mine - vRS 245 with ACC, black pack, digi dash, etc, but no power fold mirrors, front sensors or heated seats. Don’t even get me started on how new cars can have a “high spec” with no adjustable lumbar… Sorry, bit off topic, but I hate how manufacturers supply/force you to spec a bunch of stuff you don’t want (like 7 seats) just to get something you do want (like heated seats).

ATS are pretty well respected. Revo, Racingline, TeamDynamics and others do direct fit CB wheels, so no spigot rings are needed. OZ, Rotiform, etc are also worth a look. Insurance will need to know, but it shouldn’t be more than an admin fee. You should be able to get a nice fitment with regard to width and offset. That said, if you don’t care how they look, go for OE. They are the best quality for the best price. Sure, OZ are nicer, but you pay way more. No reason why you can’t get SEAT/Cupra/VW/Audi/Skoda wheels too.

Well, I obviously exaggerate, but it took me longer than I’d like to admit. I just couldn’t work out how to clip two pieces together - quite simple once I realised. Superglue will work a treat, but I wouldn’t risk it either. If it comes off with the housing, maybe a dab of hot glue? Should hold it in place and be removable.