Karpov

I meaned that when car starts to rattle then press lighty brake and if it goes quiet look for brakes. Some aftermarket pads are loose and can rattle in caliper and also those rubber parts where you but caliper pin go loose. Causes rattle too

Rattle. Are brake caliper pin bushings good and brake bad clips? Try give some brake when voice appeares.

Do you have mahle installed? I have mahle too and its that crap what isnt working anymore. I dont about this car's water pumps but back in the days some alternative pumps had poor blades and coolant flowed bad -> too much heat. I dont think that pump can be too powerful which can cool too much engine if we are talking original type pumps not racing etc.

What engine code you have?

Is pollen filter cap tighly on? If you take it loose, will it blow there like storm?

I think little idling is allways good. Its not healthy for cold engine to rev. In here Finland we say one cold start will be same that 500 miles driving. But at freeze it will stand out more than + temps. What kind of cleaner you will get? I dont have problems but fuel filter change is soon so i thinked also some cleaner to filter. I found old conversation where conclusion was that 90% of products are just paraffin (that is used for lamps) and few percent some color or something. Only few got another incredients. I looked safety data sheets today and still same. 90-95% of all products and if we look one product byself it has 90-95% paraffin. But maybe home made just pure paraffin or some two stroke oil mixed it is risky for these newer diesels who know.

Thats weird you have oil temp higher than coolant temp. Usuyally when my coolant reaches 70c then oil temp is 50c.

5min idle at cold engine is maximum 40c coolant if there is ot freeze outside. I once had 2003 1.9pd where i changed fuel filter with those o-rings what were on fuel filter bracket. It was also jerky at cold but it was jerky at idle also. Can you check all fittings, hoses etc which are on fuel system? Have you tried 1-3minute idle?

Car scanner is good. If you manage to get connection with app and bt reader, allmost all app's are fine for basic things like temp or most common fault codes.

Dont worry. Original cap will hold pressure even its not tightened all the way. My original wont click either.

No worries! I just try to write in english and give some advice at backside

Sorry my language. I just meaned that 82c is temp inside when all ok (thermostat working and engine coolant heat 87-89c. I think coolant fan kicks out 95c or higher? I remember that older vag's had combined sensor for temp and fan, four wire model. If there is same kind at 2.0tdi then fan is not working either. But maybe there is own for fan. I think for topic starter easiest way is just install new temp sensor and look what happens.

Btw CBBB seems to be ****tiest 2.0tdi to service. Like this flap motor. I think other versions you can get it out better. And one is thermostat. Oil filter bracket is blocking bolt that holds plastic pipe which comes to thermostat. Other engine codes just long spacer and ratchet. I used bitz ratchet like this With cutted torz bitz. Good with tight spots. But when i started to open tose screws that you cut, i noticed same that they wont fit out. Then ratchet switch went broke and it only turned counteeclockwise and screw and ratched jammed between block But thats another story.

Maybe it shows iron/cast block temp better but ive never got accurate readings from hoses. Allways 10-20c less than coolant inside.

Ive noticed that what comes temps at engine bay, infared meter is not accurate. Rubber hoses usually give less heat. But if you measure vents and how how air you get in cabin its okay. If all is fine my temps has been +82c at middle vents when outside was -25. Car fully warm and on highway. Now my mahle/behr thermostat is weak and 80->87c lasts very long. Usually temp stalls when 70c is reached.

Here is my patent for flap motor. Its actually ikea lack shelf support. Just right size to stay between block and one bolt secures it on place.

I had same problem. Motor bad and that aluminium stop was too loose. I made mechanical stop between block and flap motor. About 15cm long pipe with some weld spots to get it more square and flat steel top of it. That flat steel attaches whole piece of art at vacuum pump bolt. Very easy to do and very fast to install. I was doing same job as you before i made that pipe. How about drilling thru holes and bolt+nut there? Or thin bolt and nut between original threads?

If hoses are hot are you sure that coolant temp sensor is working?

Is new thermostat working? It can be faulty. Have you readed temp by obd or gauge? Coolant hoses arent hot either?

How soon you start driving after cold start? If you wait and engine warms up little bit does it hesitate? Will it rev okay on idle?

These "newer" diesels are like that. City/mixed is usually under 40 mpg and highway like older ones. More weight and slower heating than example old 1.9tdi with lighter car. My 2.0 manual superb goes about 44mpg highway based mixed driving or my short 12km work trip. More city and it goes 38mpg. Long highway trips and we are even 57mpg Even my older 2003 passat 1.9pd did that way. 1996 1.9tdi passat took 51-47mpg at city based.

No fault codes? Will it start good and will it idle good at cold?

Seems like my thermostat is bad. Tooks too much to gain 80c to 87c. Behr oe quality and lasted only 15k miles :(

I have 2010 170hp manual, now 275k miles. Wont drink oil and runs great. Ex owner did dual mass and clutch +turbo about 215k miles. Those usually break at that miles what ive looked. But you have done clutch allready. Some services are harder than old 1.9tdi but not bad. Thermostat takes some work so maybe look that it works or if not, reduce price. Even at winter gives warm. Lots of near 400k mile ones here too so its not weak engine.

That was i thinking but its correct. Top heater hose is where i installed heater. Block side is now having webasto water pump what pulls coolant thru heater to heater core. Hose number 3 (I dont have those auxilary hoses which comes with factory heater)