aubrey

Any reason you just can't reach over to the passenger side and pull the lever ? I must be missing something here ? More info - in fact I've looked at some videos, yes maybe it is a bit tight with the door shut

I've heard those resistance based testers are pants. The only good ones actually boil the fluid to give you the boiling point value. Obviously they are not the cheap testers you see sold everywhere. I've no personal experience on them, just saying what I've heard.

Tried changing the voice ? Sure I had this once and a different voice sorted it.

I brought it years ago, back in 2007 I think. The older HEX-USB+CAN one, but it still does me fine. I can't remember now who I brought it from now, but it has served me well over many years. Was a few hundred pounds IIRC.

@Gymbro1976 I just Googled P0030 it said that is the primary sensor, so I'd say S1 as my VCDS would say. So it's the engine side of the catalyst. Sometimes they are accessed from above and not underneath. My Yeti S1 Lambda for example is easy change from above, far easier than the S2 underneath. Don't go changing the wrong one out of the S1 and S2.

https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-lambda-sensor-on-skoda-rapid-spaceback-nh1-replacement-guide-29830 I have 2 lambda sensors on my Yeti, S1 and S2, before and after the catalyst. Bank 1 is exhaust manifold run, so only for V engines really.

Yes maybe, you would of felt the pedal drop a lot otherwise, especially with the engine running. I'm thinking any fluid trapped by closed valves must of remained in the unit, again trapped inside due to the closed valves. So if then all the open ports would of drip refilled on replacement, coupled with the open pathways then normal bleed, then maybe. It is quite a normal procedure to have to scan tool ABS Bleed on ABS Block replacement, but that would be with new/remanufactured and crucially fluid empty ABS Units. Anyway something you can keep in mind if you ever get a garage to brake bleed, instruct them to scan tool ABS Bleed too as that is not done by default and as @Paws4Thot said confirm they understand what your asking and why, as by experience I have had many blank faces too. In an older message you mentioned about coding values. Now your original unit is back you can get an OBD scan done and save your module coding values.

Understood with the reservoir, but I meant you changed ABS unit, so was your ABS unit not full of air by being all disconnected.

That's surprising, I messed up bleeding a 2007 Roomster and let the reservoir run dry. The pedal felt terrible after a then normal bleed. It sunk right down on engine start. I had to do a VCDS ABS Bleed to restore the pedal high up as before.

Out of interest why is it bad to tow a DSG in Neutral ? I'd of thought that in neutral neither of the dual clutch input shafts would be turning, so I'm interested why it would matter ?

As you've been swapping ABS units about have you done an ABS Bleed with a scan tool ? Assume you must of as the brake pedal would of been very spongy otherwise.

Oops just reread the thread. It was tagged onto. So a brand new car. That's back to the dealer, unless you know you're doing something extra to drain it as has been mentioned.

If it's the original battery from 2018 then it's probably due replacement age wise. If buying a new battery I'd say go for AGM over EFB. AGM is better and often not much more expensive. Remember you need to code the BMS for the battery replacement, especially if changing battery type.

Sorry I don't know any specific details. My initial thoughts are it must be possible as many locksmith companies do that, also search for key cloning/programming on AliExpress and you will see units to do what you ask. I thought car keys now have rolling codes that change, so how would that work with 2 keys copied. In how would they roll codes in sync ? But sorry, as said I don't know any specific details.

In fact thinking back now I had to do two programming actions. One was to pair up the lock/unlock for the doors, the other was the immobiliser pairing to allow the key to start the car.

I did this on my Roomster but Skoda gave you the immobiliser module logon key codes back in 2007. You program the car to the key, not the other way round. Now the security key codes to log onto the immobiliser module in your vehicle are only known on VWs system and must be done using the dealer tool. The dealer OBD tool can network link and request the logon key codes from the VW Database. Even the dealer themselves do not know those keys, it is all hidden and controlled within the dealers OBD systems. Programming the key itself I believe you can only do once. The little immobiliser bean in the key is a one time programmable item, but you can buy new ones, search for ID48 Transponder Chip and you'll see the item I mean. They are blank and ready for that once allowed programming. Systems may of moved on from those days.

My Yeti was 11mm. But am I missing something here, what size spanner ? Whatever size fits, I often make a look at guess, often close but I just grap the next size up or down as necessary. Do that with spanners and sockets to use the one that fits. I must be misunderstanding the question.

In that photo it does appear to have a similar sealing loop to an electric meter. That red sealing tab on the wire loop.

Yeah, I just looked up this photo https://cdn.skoda-storyboard.com/2019/09/superb-iv-engine-2560x1707.jpg So there are 2 coolent reservoirs

I had similar on my old Roomster after I swapped the coolent. A big air bubble came out and made the reservoir drop. So in my case it was just a top up. So what did your temp gauge show ? Does the heater run hot and is the coolent reservoir still above Min ? They are all the obvious things to comment on. Is it an EV from reading the comments ?

Can't see you really bleeding it wrong then. Sure you'd of blead at least 100mm through. Bet it came through clear and bubble free too Found this on the forum if of any relevance ? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506462-problems-bleeding-clutch/?do=findComment&comment=5687192

Are you using a pressure bleeder ?

Where is it exactly ? I may change it on mine sometime. I'm imagining just under a rear seal having done it on a Fabia2, but could you confirm location ?

DSG clutches work in reverse to manual clutches. They get pushed by the mechatronics to engage as opposed to disengage. That's done so they fail safe. Far better to have no drive on hydraulic failure than both shafts and hence 2 gears both engaged together. Therefore with your foot on the brake the clutch packs are as disengaged as they are in neutral and the gearbox side won't be turning either as the vehicle wouldn't be moving Add stop start to that and the engine flywheel side wouldn't be turning either.

Understand what your saying and I think I do similar sometimes. I was told once having the vehicle in P is a great way to damage the gearbox if someone bumps into you, no idea how true that is but if it broke the pawl in the DSG box I can get the thinking.