vindaloo

I don't come up with the same part number. 6Y0839755 or 6Y0839756 seem better matches.

Once you start driving briskly.... Rather than in a more measured way, even the 288s go off quickly. Three reasonably quick to stops at T junctions will fade them out. Have to point out I came from an Impreza with 304mm AP 4 pots to the Fabia, so my experience may have been biased. Not missing the parts prices or fuel costs to do 200 paltry miles though.

White knighting, LOL. Just been back over the topic to see if there's stuff I've missed. You are probably right in increasing numbers of cases. Older car, remap plus multiple racer child owners = things blow up. Given the cheapness of generic remaps for the PD130 and the increasing age of the cars.... Something's got to give somewhere. I blame Top Gear.

Golf Estate, Roomster, possibly a Jetta if you can saloon. PD105 in the Roomster can be tuned. Some Aussie lot did some articles a few years back. On this site: https://www.autospeed.com/cms/a_112589/article Get a PD140 Golf or Jetta and it'll go better but less frugally than a PD130.

To be fair, it's the clutch and DMF that cause most stress. Usually in pursuit of power. The gearbox can suffer from the selectors becoming detached as the rivets (ISTR) can break if driven with no mechanical sympathy. They can be fixed. Jason had a topic on it....erm decade or so ago. Far more parts choice for the 5 speeders and replacement is lighter, cheaper....

Wagnerian probably. Though the 1812 rises nicely to a finalé. Agreed about the car. Car interior good for MP3s only, unless you're being chauffeured in a Phaeton or Rolls Royce and have a decent set of headphones on. i.e. Not me.

There are certain pieces that get highlighted and stuffed on compilations. Or these days "mixes" on YT. I'll take The Classical Experience volumes 1 through 3 as accessible compilations. Some great performances and pieces on those. Without them I'd be more ignorant of the music and the motivations that lead to them being produced.

Going a bit OT but.... When evaluating audio systems, occasionally, I try to find holes or weaknesses by playing certain tracks. America by Simon and Garfunkel is one. There's a deep bass drum around 45hz that's so much deeper than the rest of it. Pachelbel's Canon I've used in the car trying to find missing and booming frequencies. These days it can mostly be done with a decent smartphone or a measurement mic on a smart phone.

That's the piece. Though I'm more familiar with this version. Far more dynamic range than a lot of modern stuff. It starts really small and quiet.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9QZfaIn2ZKo

Fit new top mounts and bearings. The old ones will be smashed flat. Car "may" be a lot quieter on tyre noise from doing that. Though all four corners need doing for best results.

JVC, wiv Alpine amps and big bassy bins in the boot innit bruv. 🤣😂 Or possibly something a little more integrated when playing Pachelbel's Canon.

Ah, I missed the subsequent update.

I did try to find out, minefield. Sony in there somewhere too. Lots of older topics on VWVortex. All the piccies, long since disappeared.

Physically, the connectors are the same. So there's a chance it'll work assuming you get or make the wiring looms. However, why bother? I've got a 64 or 128GB short USB key plugged into a mechless head unit. If I wanted to run music off my phone or phone integrate, it would do that too if I could bother to run the mic around the A pillar to the sun visor. J.

Both my fronts have gone and been done. A plastic runner broke both times. Replaced the carrier seal with "caravan/minivan" mastic. One other broken part still in one door. There's two spring compression "hats" allowing a bit of "give" in the cables where they enter the drum/spool. One of mine has failed. I guess that means the shock of the window hitting the stops is less cushioned than usual. It's been that way for many years now though. ... So I'd buy a complete mech kit or a replacement carrier if doing it again, just to ensure I had all of the bits. Bored of drilling out rivets and replacing door card clips too.

The glass clamps themselves are available on the bay... They're not in all the regulator repair kits, curiously, just some of them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333540788899?fits=Model%3AFabia&hash=item4da8948aa3:g:~coAAOSwipleYlZ-

I reckon you'll need an illuminated endoscope thingy for yer phone and either the aforementioned grommet hole or whip the speaker off to get clearance to put a grabby hand thing in there. If you see a bald man saying you've got five minutes.... You've entered the crystal maze.

There used to be an article on fabia-vrs.com. Website long since gone. Plastic rear bumper needs to be removed. ISTR the factory kit came with three sensors. Most aftermarket have four. Whatever, pick your spots and drill the holes. There may be indications on the inside of the bumper suggesting where they go. There should be holes in parts of the inside of the plastic moulding so you can zip-tie the cabling up. One of the grommets on the back of the car under the bumper is where the cabling enters the car. How you weatherproof it , dunno.

Mine's a 2005 VRS. Pulling fuse 60 stopped the alarm sounder. It started going off when neighbours left for work in the morning and drove slowly past it down the shared garage road. Kind of frowned at the switch on the bonnet catch for a while, so cleaned that up. Later I needed to get a new alarm/central locking fob working with the car. That needed fuse 60 back in. Plugged it in and it's been fine since. That was in 2011.

Don't do that mate! Chinese whispers.... By the time the message gets along they'll think I have a child labour force cooking real penguins in the oven! 🤣

I wanted the Pingu penguin ones but apparently "might endanger a child by looking like a toy they can chew on". I don't think the UK will allow them in now we're un-EU-fied but I still want penguins on the bloody dash, even if I have to stick them in the oven for /2 a day a month. 😞

Possibly try AVS. Part cost is a lot lower but delivery charge on top. Still less than a tenner for two.

I've since thought through it and if the tandem pump seals failed I'd think that it would suck fuel through quite rapidly. Pressure one side, part vacuum the other.... First longer trip in the car in two years. Just after the first real big problem I had with it. (Turbo went boom). Extra worry and paranoia. At least I had the RAC membership (bought just before Christmas). If I'd turned up fretting at the wrong garage, the £££s signs might have lit up.

Rather more than I thought. RAC man eventually rocked up and took 30 seconds to state "that's normal oil, it does that, if fuel was getting in there, it'd be overflowing and going everywhere". I drove it 140 miles back up east quite handily this afternoon so it seems that he was right.

Car has turned into a nightmare in a few short months. Replaced the turbo pipes as we're driving me nuts popping off all the time., Bang! Turbo blew at the garage on the test drive. So new turbo etc. Then: Intermittent problem with brake servo turned out to be a split plastic hose, replaced that.. Now: Following 140 mile trip to visit my brother. Oil drips off the dipstick and smells of diesel. I'm worried about even starting it. Let alone driving it the 140 miles home. Probably need a new tandem pump and an oil change. The worry is it's already started gnawing at the cam and the bottom end. Sadly, I think this may be the end of my furby experience. 😟