vindaloo

https://www.google.com/search?q=fabia+hand+brake+spring+briskoda&client=firefox-b-d&sxsrf=ALeKk02NDc8hHBg6TfRA5mco0sca8nrmXg:1603348375595&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi9nYOTysfsAhXFQRUIHa2YA1IQ_AUoAXoECAgQAw&biw=1280&bih=910

Did you unscrew the brake reservoir cap? Otherwise it reads like a sticking piston.

Top mounts and don't forget the bump stops. Or the damper rods get exposed when the plastic sleeve falls down. Seat Cupra shortened bump stops on the back.

You have to negate the kick up on the left. Find a wall and a piece of card or plastic and have a play. Completely flat or horizontal beam pattern is what to aim for.

I think.... can have the 45 or the 215 but not both on a 17. Ibiza rims are offset 41-43 I believe. Little bro went from 205/40 to 205/45 (I think) to get a little more comfort.

It looks like the inner face of those mountings in the beam isn't finished to allow a snug fit of the bush flange up to it. Just checked the OEMs and they're similar and fitted similarly to the Powerflex.

Glue.... Or spendy garage money.

Wheels are 1/2" (12-13mm) wider than OEM = 6-7mm wider inside and out. Offset is ~10mm less than OEM = more sticky-outy. Tyres are 10mm wider than OEM but same profile (45). Another 6-7mm plus a bit taller too. If you can identify exactly where they're rubbing/scuffing the tyres, that's a good start.

Hang on... Replace gasket with OEM hole in it with one with 9mm or whatever hole in it. Increase hole size to 11-12mm to avoid CEL. But if... Install blanking plate after drilling a 11-12mm hole in it. You'll need another gasket. One either side of the restrictor plate.

Workshop manuals doesn't show the front bush as a separate part, though FEBI etc replacements exist. As do Powerflex.

Something minor moddy that might tighten things up.... Fit a new VRS front ARB and get a Whiteline rear ARB on the car. Obvs get a pair of good rear shocks in there to start with. Do you tend to carry stuff in the boot?

That looks quite extreme. I'd be quite worried about the sump if that was my car. Possibly you can claw some height back with a set of new front top mounts but if you're doing that, swap out the springs anyway.

Check the other one. Possibly, if the new bearing was whacked into place it's broke. Even if it rotates freely in air.

Mad to spend that much on lights no one has (relatively) used. The stock halogens are reportedly good. £100-£150 for a new OEM-likes pair.

Is that a crack in the second pipe up or just crud? Clean it off, spray, spray talc over the area and go for a short dry drive. Then have another look. Or get it pressure tested or DIY pressure test it.

Standards will work enough to get it through MOT. And cost about £40 a pair. My rear replacements a couple of years ago to match my Eibach springs were £200 a pair. If you live in the wilds of Cambs, Lincs and drive fast on rolling, bouncy, minor roads, you'd notice a difference. Otherwise, maybe not.

Look at the engine and gearbox mounts. Driving style maybe.... Needs the accelerator pushed a tiny amount before starting to let up the clutch. I pogo'd mine when I first got it before realising that. And also, that diesel cars don't really make that challenging , snarling revving sound when the revs are increased slightly before moving off. Allowing swift but civilised departures.

You're unlikely to drive it like Miss Daisy immediately after a remap. In my experience, it will slip when:- Giving it a sudden prod on the motorway when the traffic clears in front of you at speeds <censored but not stupid> in 5th, 6th. Some time into a cross country jaunt on A/B roads that involve heavy pulls up through the gears to get back up to speed. Mine was remapped around 22K miles. The motorway thing started happening after 12-18 months but was also a torque addiction thing as I previously hadn't simply jabbed at the accelerator (that brought on the slip). The cross country slipping started happening about 3-4 years ago. Car is on 120K presently and I've had it from new.

Something like these might work. Have also seen VRS logo similar but at double the price. No idea how their clips compare to the Skoda ones but they look OK. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Tailored-Skoda-Fabia-1999-2007-Car-Mats-Free-Colour-Choice/223155746748?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Model%3AFabia+I|Cars+Type%3A1.9+TDI+RS|Plat_Gen%3A6Y2|Cars+Year%3A2005|Variant%3A6Y2+[1999-2008]+Hatchback&hash=item33f51e77bc:g:QNEAAOSwCPdZ5xB~

Good luck. I replaced my drivers one as a hole wore in it. That was 5 years ago and was rare and silly money for them even then. Find a good set of after market ones.

Mikalors also have a rounded profile so as not to pinch/cut the hose. In that piccie, how's the alignment of the hoses. I'd want to get that metal hose end closer to the EGR. It almost looks too far forward and/or too low. The right angle silicone looks like it's stretching. Try pulling the pipe out of the lower silicone a tad.

Concur... Mine's allegedly 280lbft and 150-160bhp, remapped at Jabbasport, never been rolling roaded. The main issue is the clutch. Was remapped around 20K. After a year or so, sudden acceleration in 5th, 6th on the motorway would cause the clutch to slip. Nowadays, the clutch doesn't like hard cross country trips. It starts slipping and smelling. Additionally, be aware that the intercooler pipework ages. The metal clips can crack and break and the retaining nubs/lugs on the pipes can fatigue and break. I carry snips, pliers and a load of big zip ties just in case.